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A GENERAL VIEW 

AND 

AGRICULTURAL SURVEY 

or THE 

COUNTY OE ESSEX. 

TAKEN tJXDER THE APEOI^^TMENT OF 

t'lje Hm^^nrk Itnte SigriniltiirGl Inrietij; 

BX WINSLOW C. WATSON, Esq. 






CONTENTS. 

Part I. CIVIL AND POLTTICxlL EISTORY, 

Part IL PHYSICAL GEOaRAPHY. 

Mountains. 
Lakes. 

RiVEES. 

Natural Curiosities. 

Part III. NATURAL HISTORY : 

Animals. 

Fisn. 

Fruits. 

Plants. 

Reptiles. 

Climate and Winds. 

Part IV. MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY : 

Drift and diluvial formations. 
Native fertilizers. 
Mineral Springs. 

Part V. INDUSTRIAL PROGRESS AND PURSUITS 

Public Improvements 
Part VI. AGRICULTURE: 

Crops. 
Stock. 
Husbandry- 
Markets. 
Fruit . 
Analyses of soils. * 

APPENDIX. . 



>a 



PART L 

CIVIL AND POLITICAL HISTORY 



CHAPTER I. 

TO THE DISCOVERY. 

The territory, now distinguished by the general designation^ 
of the valley of Lake Champlain was for nearly a century, a de- 
batable ground between the powers of France and England. 
Claimed by each under arbitrary charters or imaginary titles, 
overrun and subverted in turn by both, and permanenily occu- 
pied by neither, it derived from the presence of their armies, 
little amelioration of its primitive savage aspect. 

Earlier than this period, the same region seems to have been 
the frontier between tribes, or confederacies of tribes of abori- 
gines, who Avaged a perpetual warfare of ferociousextermination. 
These circumstances, it is probable had consigned it to desolation 
and prevented the occupation of the country by a race, which 
would have been allured to it, by the strong attractions to the 
savage mind, created by the profusion of its game and fish. The 
possessions of the Indians were apparently most extended and 
permanent on the eastern shores of the lake. Few vestiges of 
their existence have been discovered, upon its western borders. 
Tliey appear, however, to have congregated in numerous villages 
along the lakes and rivers of the interior. The bold and lofty- 
mountains which envelop that region, formed to tliem a bul- 
wark against the assaults of their foes, while the forests, and the 
streams yielded an abundant supply of their humble wants. 

At a period nearly cotemporaneous with the discovery of Canada 
by the French, the Roman energies and the extraordinary mili- 
tary prowess of the lilohawks appear to have borne their arms and 



652 [Assembly 

established their dominion almost to the southern shores of the 
St. Lawrence. The long and narrow tract of water, known to 
us as Lake Champlain, was doubtless the war-path of the Huron 
and Iroquois, in their mutual hostile and sanguinary incursions. 
The mind may readily portray fleets of the Indian war canoes, 
caparisoned in the gorgeous trappings pf barbaric pomp, bound- 
ing over the dark and still waters of the lake, while the paddles 
kept tune to the cadence of their war songs; or gliding stealthily 
along the silent shores, upon their mission of rapine and blood. 
The Indian in reference doubtless to the fact that it aiforded an 
avenue and facility to their reciprocal attacks, gave to the lake 
the impressive and appropriate name of " Caniadere-guarante," 
i. e. '-The lake that is the gate of the country."* Anally of the 
Hurons, Champlain accompanied them in one of these incur- 
sions and revealed to the civilized world the beautiful lake which 
has immortalized his own name. 

Samuel Champlain was one of those remarkable men who 
seem to stamp an impress of their own characters upon the ages 
they illustrate by their services and exploits. Champlain was a 
native of France, of noble lineage. At an early age he was at- 
tached to the royal marine of that nation. Eminently imbued 
with tlie impulsive and impetuous spirit of his country, anima- 
ted by a bold and reckless courage, fearless in encountering dan- 
ger and toil, his intuitive sagacity enabled him to surmount the 
ordinary obstacles that his intelligence and prescience could not 
anticipate and avoid. Enthusiastic, persevering and unyielding 
in his purposes, he devoted all the powers of his active mind and 
the energies of his character to the achievement of the great 
object ol his life, the exploration of the wildernesses of the new 
World, and the foundation, in their recesses, of a new empire to his 
country. De Soto discovered the Mississippi, and while he found 
an appropriate mausoleum beneath its turbulent water, has left 
no memorial of his name, Champlain, more fortunate, render- 
ed his discovery a monument, which has perpetuated alike, his 
services and his memory. 

* Documentary History. 

" Petaonbough," signifying ''aflouWe pond or lake branching out into two," is anottbr 
•tboriginal appellation, probably refening to its connection with Lake George. 

B. W. LiviK<3STOW, Esq. 



No. 112.] 653 

France, entered with ardor and enthusiasm into the great 
struijgle of the age, the field of exploration upon tlie new con- 
tinent. The zeal and enterprise of the fishermen of Normandj 
had already discovered and penetrated the gulf of St Lawrence. 
Carfier, a French adventurer, eutert^d in 1534, the mighty river of 
that name. The succeeding year, he guided to his new discovery, 
under the auspices of the royal government, a fleet, freighted 
with many of the young nobility of France, and blessed by the 
prayers and sanctions of the church. They departed in high 
hopes and with brilliant auguries to colonize this new France. 
Ascending the majestic stream, which then first received to- 
gether with its estuary the name of "St. Lawrence," tliey an- 
chored, at wliat is now called the Isle of Orleans. Cartier pene- 
trated from tliis in his open boats, to the Indian "Hochelaga," 
named by him Mont Real — the ^lontreal of the present age. 
Here he received from the Indians the first intelligence, indis- 
tinct and shadowy, of the regloa of Lake Champlain. The ensu- 
ing winter was passed by the colonists at tlie Isle of Orleans, in 
intense suffering, from the rigors of the climate and the pre- 
sence of disease. 

Having taken possession of the country, with all the pre- 
scribed pomp and formulas of chivalry and religion, the colo- 
nization was abandoned and the expedition returned early 
in the season, to the mother country. This experiment end- 
ing thus inauspiciously, and the climate and country present- 
ing to the children of sunny France, so few allurements, all 
schemes of further colonization seem to have slumbered, for seve- 
ral years. The " Lord of Roberval," received in 1540 a commis- 
sion from the French King, conferring on him an immense and 
almost illimitable territory, and Avhich dignified him with the 
plenary powers of vice royalty. 

This j^archment title and these titular functions over- 
shadowed a vast region, and extended in every direction 
along the gulf and river St. Lawrence, comprehending in its wide 
domain the present limits of New England and Northern New- 
York. The efforts emanating from this authority, appear to have 
terminated without accomplishing any progress either in coloni- 
zation or discovery. 



654 [Assembly 

During the half century succeeding the failure of Rober- 
val, the subject of New France was unheeded amid the 
convulsions and conflicts of the religious wars by which 
the kingdom in that period was torn and agitated. In 1598, ano- 
ther abortive attempt, under governmental patronage, was made to 
colonize the region of the St. Lawrence, by disgorging upon its 
'shores, the convicts from the dungeons and gaols of Fiance. 

Private enterprise, unfolding the only just and secure basis of 
colonization of that region, by associating it with the fur trade, 
initiated the first successful effort. In 1600, Chauvin had ob- 
tained a comprehensive patent, which formed a monopoly of 
that trade. Repeated and prosperous voyages had been made, 
and settlements were about being formed, when the death of 
Chauvin dissolved the organization. 

A body of merchants of Rouen, animated by this success, orga- 
nized in the year 1603, a new company, with similar purposes, 
and arranged an expedition to be directed by the skill and science 
of Champlain. On returning from this voyage, he presented a 
most accurate and discriminating account o± the geography and 
aspect uf the country; and the manners and traits of the savage 
tribes. 

A new patent, in the meanwhile, had been granted to the Cal- 
vanislic Protestant, De Monts. It conferred still broader ex- 
pause of sovereignty, extending from the fortieth to the forty- 
sixth degree of north latitude, and was clothed with greater 
privileges in the monopoly of tlie fur trade and with higher im- 
munities of the soil and government. This charter guaranteed 
freedom of religious worship to the Huguenot emigrant. 

Several years were exhausted in trafficing under this charter, 
with the aborigines; in wandering from one locality to another 
bteween the St. Lawrence and Cape Cod, and in forming temporary 
settlements, without effecting any permanent occupation of the 
country. 

Tlie first French settlement upon the American continent, 
was made in 1605 by these emigrants at Port Royal. The charter 
of De Monts Avas abrogated in the year 1608, upon the remou- 



No. 112.J G55 

strances of the merchants intert'sted in the preceding grants. In 
the same year, Champlaiu returned to New France, and in ac- 
cordance with a purpose conceived in his pieceding expedition, 
laid the foundation of .Quebec — mure ambitious of the honor 
of founding a great city, than covetous of tlie emoluments of 
trade. 

Impelled by the ardor of his impetuous character and his im- 
passioned zeal for discovery, Champlain the ensuing year em- 
barked in an adventure conspicuous in that unscrupulous and 
daring age, for its reckltss purpose and bold temerity. A band 
of some sixty Hurons and Algonquins had assembled at the 
rapids of the modern Chanil)ly, with their flotilla of war canoes, 
and were preparing for a hostile expedition against a remote 
tribe of the "Iroquois". 

Champlain, attended only by two Europeans, at once became 
the ally and companion of these savages. Allured by the spirit 
of adventure, and grasping at the glory which fascinated that 
age, he boldly and without hesitation or remorse encountered the 
dangers and privations of a vast and savage wilderness, never 
before pressed by the foot of civilized man, to assail a people of 
whose character and riglits he was alike ianorant and careless. 



'Cj' 



The programme of the route to be pursued by the expedition, 
as indicated by the Indians, is signalized by a remarkable minute 
ness and accuracy in their knowledge of the topography of the 
country. Traversing the lake, which commemorates his name, 
they informed him that in pursuit of the enemy they sought, 
who occupied a country thickly inhabited, they " must pass by a 
water-fall and thence enter another lake three or four leagues in 
length, and having arrived at its head, there were four leagues of 
land to be travelled to pass to a river which flows towards the 
coast of the Almochoiquois." A precise and exceedingly accu- 
rate delineation of the route (although somewhat inaccurate in the 
estimate of distances,) from Lake Champlain by Ticonderoga and 
Lake George to the Hudson. The journal of Champlain* is of 
deep interest, not merely because it affords the first revelation of 

• Copious compilations from the works of Champlain hare already been published in the 
Trans-xctious of lSi3, and are therefore necessarily omitted, although peculiarly appropriate to 
this TTork. 



656 [Assembly 

a rich and beautiful region to civilized society, but because it 
presented a truthful exhibition of the Indian habits and pursuits 
and their arts and tactics in war. 

Upon entering the lake, Champlain was deeply impressed by 
the profusion and beauty of the Islands, the wild and majestic 
growth of the timber, and the abundance of game and fish. The ri- 
vers discharging into the lake he found " surrounded by fine trees 
similar to those we have in France, wnth a quantity of vines the 
handsomest I ever saw." " In the lake," he continues, " there is 
large abundance of fish of divers species." He adds the melancholy 
commentary to this attractive picture of a delightful region, 
" these parts though agreeable are not inhabited by the Indians - 
on account of their wars." 

He coursed the lake along the western shore and " saw on the 
east side very high mountains capped with snow." The Indians 
assured him that those parts were inhabited by the Iroquois 
and that they embraced beautiful valleys and fields fertile in 
corn, with an infinitude of other fruits." 

He thus portrays the habits of his savage allies. — " on encamp- 
ing for the night, forthwith some began to cut down timber; others 
to peel off the bark, to cover lodges to shelter them ; others to 
barricade their lodges on the shore." He regarded their barri- 
cades as efllcient protection, against the ordinary assaults of sav- 
age warfare. " They dispatched two or three canoes, after encamp- 
ment, to reconnoitre," which, " if they made discovery of no one, 
retired," and no further vigilance was exerted during the night ' 
for their security. 

Champlain earnestly remonstrated with them " on this 
bad habit of theirs," as a laxity in military science. On ap- 
proaching, the territory of their enemies, they observed more 
caution and vigilance in thoir movements. They advanced silently, 
and with great care by night, and retired into the " picketted forts" 
by day and " reposed without fire or noise." The savages were 
deeply curious and importunate to discover the dreams of Cham- 
plain, that from them they might derive auguries relative to the* 
issue of the expedition. 



No. 112.] ^ 657 

As they advanced softly and noiselessly they encountered 
" a war party of the Iroquois, about 10 o'clock at night, at the 
point of a cape that puts into the lake at the west side." I deep- 
ly regret, that I am unable to insert unabridged, the unique and 
graphic description* by Champlain of the incidents and conflict 
which ensued. They are pourtrayed in language, so simple, clear 
and descriptive, that we feel as if tlie eye rested upon the spec- 
tacle. We almost contemplate the ccol and chivalric postpone- 
ment of the battle, by mutual consent to day-light ; the night 
spent in the war songs and chaunts of triumph and defiance i 
the skill and cunning of the Hurons, in disguising the presence of 
their potent allies ; the marshaling of the hostile bauds, the 
lofty forms of the Iroquois chiefs, decorated with their waving 
plumage and distinguished by their " arrow proof armor 
made of cotton -thread and wood;" their astonishment, not 
unmingled with boldness at the sudden apparition of the 
Europeans; the intrepid Frenchman advancing, alone in front of 
the Hurons; the awe and consternation with which the Iroquois 
see the flash of the arquebus, hear the report, and behold their 
chieftains slain as if by the thunder bolt'. The victory in such a 
conflict was necessarily with the allies of the white man. 

Champlain places the site of (his battle " in 43 degrees and 
some minutes," and evidently within the vicinity of Ticonde- 
roga.f 

It is a singular coincidence, and may it not be regarded as 
significant of the presence and retribution of an overruling Provi- 
dence, tliat the first aboriginal blood, shed by the Christian inva- 
der, and shed ruthlessly and in wantonness was on the soil which 
in another age, was destined to witness the sanguinary though 
fruitless conflicts of the ujightiest powers of Christendom for the 
possession of the same territory ; that both moistened with their 
choicest blood, and which neither were permitted permanent- 
ly to enjoy. 

♦Documentary History, vol. 3, page 7. 

t I confidently assume this position, although a somewhat controverted point, from th« 
distinct designation of the place upon CJiamplain's own map. I feel assui-cd on tlic subject by 
several other considerations, which I deem conclusive. He probably saw the falls at Ticonde- 
roga, in the pursuit which succeeded the victory. 

[Ag. Tr. '53.] R R 



658 [Assembly 

Champlaiu looking forth from the field of battle, upon the 
placid water that laved the spot, and probably exulting in the 
pride of even such a victory, named the lake, Champlain. His 
countrymen in succeeding years would have substituted the name 
of " Mere des Iroquois," but the Anglo-saxon and posterity avert- 
ed the wrong, (for the latter name was not known to the nomen- 
clature of the Indian,) and the lake still perpetuates the memory of 
its discoverer. Champlaiu entered upon the waters of the lake 
on the 4th of July 1609, and eleven years before the Mayflower 
sought the shores of New England. On the retreat of this ex- 
pedition, Champlain was constrained^ to witness one of those 
appalling scenes incident to Indian warfare — the torture of a 
prisoner. This terrific spectacle occurred, it is supposed, within 
the present limits of Willsboro'. The sufferings of the victim, 
inflicted in all the intensity and refinement of savage barbarity, 
which lie in vain attempted to avert, were, in mercy, closed by the 
arquebus of Champlain. 

The subsequent career of this extraordinary man, was like the 
eommencement, distinguished and brilliant. We may, with pro- 
priety, linger a few moments in glancing at his future liistory. 
Returning the third time to the New World he embarked again 
" to satisfy the desire I had," he writes "of learning something 
about that country," with his former allies and associates, in an 
incursion into the territories of tlie Iroquois. Exhibiting rare 
military science and genius in this ignoble warfare, amid the wilds 
of Western New-York, he was at length compelled to retreat 
sorely wounded and repulsed from an attack upon an Indian 
stockade. That winter the intrepid and untiring adventurer spent 
among the gloomy and comfortless wigwams of the Hurons, upon 
the sequestered shores of Lake Nipissing. Again restored to 
active life and civilization, he erects, in defiance of the grovelling 
cupidity of superiors, the magnificent castle of St. Louis. In 
1615 still recuring to his Indian associates and accompanied by 
Monks of St. Francis, he penetrated far into the recesses of the 
western solitudes, and the first of civilized men, gazed upon the 
mighty waves, bounded only by the horizon, which he called 
" La mer douce," and which another generation, distinguished 
as Lake Huron. He gloriously defended Quebec, from an assault 



No. 112. 659 

of the English, almost without arms or provisions, by the glory 
of his name and the energy of his courage, and ottly capitulated 
his famishing garrison, when the*]ast hope of relief had failed. 
Having suppressed the Indian excitements which had agitated his 
provinces, and amply asserted and perfected the dominion of his 
Sovereign over the empire he had founded, Champlain died in 
1635 and is commemorated in the annals of the country he serv- 
ed, so ably and with such fidelity, as " the father of New France." 



CHAPTER II. 

TO THE OCCUPATION OF CROWN POINT EY TRANCE. 

I am not aware that any evidence exists that the environs of 
Lake Champlain witnessed the missionary labors of the Jesuits ; 
but we can with difficulty believe, that a region so near and acces- 
sible, would have been unexplored by the deep devotion and 
ardent enthusiasm, which impelled them to bear the cross and to 
find their neophytes upon the shores of Lake Superior. 

The policy of Champlain, in forming an intimate alliance witk 
the Algonquius, although successful in its immediate object, the 
cherishing the union and afiections of the tribes of New France, 
in its results, excited-the unyielding feuds and hostility of the 
formidable Mohawks, and entailed upon the French more\ than a 
century of fierce and bloody savage warlare. 

The French government, while it maintained the sovereignty 
of New France, wielded a pow'erful iuiluence over all the aborigi- 
nal tribes, within its vast limits. The preponderance of Eng- 
land, even in the councils of the Iroquois, was often disputed by 
France and rendered by her machinations, precarious and ineffi- 
cient. The ■•' chain of friendship," between France and the con- 
federacies of the Hurons and Algonquins never was broken or 
became dim. The gay and joyous manners of the French 
won the heart of the savage. The solemn grandeur, and tlie 
imposing formulas and pomp of the Catholic rituals, attracted liis 
wonder and admiration and fascinated his senses, if they did not 
subdue his feelings. His appetites were pampered and his 
wants supplied with a lavish prodigality, the result perhaps of 



660 [ASSEMBL¥ 

governmental policy rather than Christian charity. To the mind 
of the Indian, these traits of the French were favorably con- 
trasted with the cold, stern and repulsive habits of the English- 
man — with the unimposing forms of his religious rites, and with 
the close and parsimonious guard the British government held over 
its treasury and store houses. 

The annals of the borders of Lake Champlain is a blood stain- 
ed recital of mutual atrocities. The feuds of the cabinets of Eu- 
rope and the malignant passions of European sovereigns, armed 
the colonies of England and the provinces of France, in con- 
flicts where the ordinary ferocity of border warfare, w^as aggra- 
vated by the merciless atrocities of savage barbarism. 

Each power vied with the other, in the consummation of its 
schemes of blood and rapine.. Hostile savage tribes, panting for 
slaughter, were let loose along the whole frontier, upon feeble 
settlements, struggling amid the dense forest, with a rigorous 
climate and reluctant soil, for a precarious existence. Unprotect- 
ed mothers, helpless iiifancy and decrepid age, were equally the 
victims of the torch, the tomahawk and scalping knife. Lake 
Champlain was the great pathway, equally accessible and use- 
• ful to both parties, of these bloody and devastating fora} s. In 
the season of navigation, they glided over the placid waters of 
the Lake, wath .ease and celerity, in the bark canoes of the In- 
dians. The ice of winter afforded them a broad crystal high- 
way, with no obstruction of forest or mountains, of ravine or 
river. If deep and impassable snows rested upon its bosom, 
snow shoes were readily constructed, and secured and facilitated 
their march. 

Although this system of reciprocal desolation, impeded the pro- 
gress of civilization and*repel]ed from the frontier, bordering 
upon the Lake, all agricultural and industrial occupations, both 
England and France asserted an exclusive right to the dominion 
of the territory. France based her claims of sovereignty upon 
the discovery of Arcadia, and the gulf and river St. Law- 
rence, and subsequently upon the discoveries of Champlain. Be- 
fore that event we have seen, she had conveyed to De Monts a 
parchment title to the entire region extending to the meridian of 



Fo. 112.] 661 

Wiiladelphia. Tlie original charter of Virginia asserted the 
claim of England to the 45th parallel of latitude, while other 
grants extended her sovereignty to the waters of the St. Law- 
rence. The ultimate acquisition of the title of Holland, by the 
cession of New-Netherlands fortified these pretensions, whick 
England alleged were matured by the recognition in the treaty 
of Utrecht, of her paramount sovereignty over the possessions 
of the Iroquois. Blood and treasures were profusely expended 
in the assertion of. tliese hostile claims, founded on these ideal 
<jharters to a rude and howling wilderness. 

A long series of ferocious but indecisive wars prevailed between 
the French and the Iroquois, signalized by mutual woes and 
cruelties and by alternations of victory and defeat. To avenge 
former sufferings as well as to arrest future incursions, the gov- 
ernment of New France in 1665 determined to attempt the de- 
struction of the fastnesses of the Mohawks. The annals of war 
exhibit scarcely a parallel to the daring intrepidity, the expo- 
sure and suffering of that expedition. 

The point of contemplated attack was more than three hund- 
red miles removed, and the season, the heart of mid-winter. 
That distance was to be traversed by five hundred men, upoa 
snow shoes, over the icy surface of Champlain and across an 
untrodden wilderness. Each man, bore his own provisions and 
munitions. At night they had no covering but the clouds, or the 
boughs of the forest. At length bewildered amid pathless snows, 
paralyzed and exhausted by cold and hunger, they were pre- 
served from destruction and restored to their country by the 
active but ill-requited beneficence of a remote settlement erf 
the Dutch. 

A treaty of professed peace, succeeded this event, but it seems 
to have formed no restraint upon the predatory spirit of either 
the MohaVks or the French. Two years had not elapsed when a 
second expedition, guided by the venerable De Tracy himself, ihe 
governor general of New France, had assembled at the Isle de 
Motte in Lake Champlain. Far more formidable than the pi-e- 
cediug, it embraced 1,200 combatants, borne by a fleet of 300 bat- 



662 [Assembly 

teaiix and canoes, and strengthened by two pieces of artillery, 
which they transported to the remotest hamlets of the Iroquois. 

Intimidated by the power of this armament, the Mohawks 
abandoned their fortified riilages, and "these barbarians were 
©nly seen on the mountains at a distance, uttering great cries and 
firing some random shots."* Haviag planted the cross, cele- 
brated mass, and sung the " Te Deum" on the spot, " all that re- 
mained was to fire the palisades and cabins, and to destroy all 
the stores of Indian corn, beans, and other products of the coun- 
try found there."* The retreat of the French, from this abortive 
a;ttempt, was deeply calamitous. Forts were erected at Sorel and 
Chambly to protect the province from the incursions of the Iro- 
quois by the lake. / 

• The Mohawks, wily as powerful, w^ere, by their habits and po- 
sition, intangible ; no blow could reach them. Suddenly burst- 
ing, in 1689, with great force into Canada, they beseiged and cap- 
tured Montreal, and menaced the empire of New France with 
utter extinction. This movement averted a contemplated attack 
upon New- York by Frontenac through Lake Champlain, and 
of a fleet by sea. 

In the ensuing winter an event occurred, pre-eminent even in 
the atrocities of that warfare, for its deliberate and feiocious cruelty. 

The people of Schenectady, that village, whose Christian char- 
ily had saved the forces of De Courcelle from an ai-palling fate, 
reposed in a profound security. AltlnAigh warned of impending 
danger, they had relied for protection upon the intense severity 
of the season, and an unprecedented depth of snow. 

A band of French and Hurons, conducted by ruthless parti- 
sans, precipitating themselves in a march of twenty-two days 
aleng the Champlain valley, fell, in a winter's midnight upon 
this doomed and undefended hamlet. A common ruin involved 
the entire population. The bloud of many mingled with the 
ashes of their dwellings. Others, half clad, fled to Albany amid 
thv! cold and snow, while others were borne into a hopeless capti- 
vity. 

* Frenoli report. 



No. 112.] 663 

After perpetrating this massacre, the French made a rapid and 
disastrous retreat, pursued by the rigors of a destroying climate, 
and the vengeance of an exasperated enemy. 

Other sections of the English colonies Avere visited with simi- 
lar and simultaneous assaults, tending only to aggravate national 
animosities, without either military or political results. Tliese 
inHictions awakened the colonies to the perception, that safety 
and protection depended on concerted action, and that they 
were strons; alone in harmonious union. From such convictions 
emanated the first idea of an American Congress. 

Tliat body, constituted of delegates from Massachusetts, Con- 
necticut and New-York, assembled in 1690 at the city of New- 
York. It was then resolved to combine their eiforts for the sub- 
jugation^of Canada. Massachusetts redeemed her engagement, to 
equip a fleet and to assail the French possessions by sea. New- 
York and Connecticut assumed the responsibility of effecting & 
descent, by a land force, upon Montreal and the forts upon the 
Sorel. 

An army was assembled at Lake George, and a flotilla of canoea, 
constructed for the purpose, wafted the army, powerful in num- 
bers and appointments, down that lake to Ticonderoga. Trans- 
porting their armament to Champlain, they again embarl.vd with 
high aspirations and in confidence of success. Some further pro- 
gress was made, when suddenly a defective commissariat, with 
dissension^ and divisions constrained a retreat, aiid with it blast- 
ed every scheme of the projected attacks. 

The immense disbuisements of the colonies in sustaining these 
extended efibrts, exhausted their feeble resources, and left them 
almost powerless for the defence of their own frontier. 

In this crisis, and during the year 1690, John Schyler, a name 
distinguished by a long line of patriots and soldiers, organized a 
volunteer band of about one hundred and twenty " Christians and 
Indians," on a predatory incursion, into the French province. 
Traversing Lake Champlain and the Sorel, in silence and caution, 
he landed without detection in the vicinity of Chambly. Secre- 



664 [Assembly 

ting their canoes and provisioUvS, he penetrated, with singular 
temerity and no less singular success, to La Prairie, amid numer- 
ous forces of the French, and far within the line of their fortresses. 
The merciless storm fell upon an unsuspecting rural population, 
engaged and rejoicing in their harvest. In the fell spirit that 
characterized these scenes, none were exempted from slaughter 
or captivity. The '• scalps of four women folks," were among 
their trophies. Dwellings, barns, products of the field, " and 
everything else which would take fire," were remorselessly con- 
signed to the flames.* 

The next year, Peter Schyler, a controling spirit in the colony 
and Avho swayed a potent influence over the rude affections of the 
Mohawks, collecting three hundred warriors of the tribe, daringly 
pursued the track of his brother, and asailed the same region. 
Intrepid and able, he conducted the expedition with success, de- 
feating the French in battles, and inflicting on them severe calami- 
ties, and losses. 

The scenes perpetrated at La Prairie, were fearfully retaliated 
and avenged in the rapine, captivity and massacre that devastated 
the English settlements, exposed to these barbarous incursions. 

In the winter of 1704, amid the most intense frosts, and deepest 
snows known to a Canadian climate, a baud of savages, and 
French partizans equally ferocious and vindictive, passing over 
the ice of Lake Champlain, and penetrating on snow shoes through 
the gorges of the Green Mountains, burst like a destroying tem- 
pest upon the valley of the Connecticut. 

To general history, belongs the narrative of eflbrts for the " con- 
quest of New-France," protracted for a period of two years from 
1709, extending in their field of operations along the entire frontier 
from Detroit to the Bay of Fundy, and embracing armaments, both 
by land and sea. Policy, as well as the exasperated passions of 
the colonies, aroused all their enthusiasm, and enlisted in sup- 
port of the project, every energy. and resource. This zeal was 
neutralized, or defeated by the apathy, the imbecility or the neg- 
ligence of the goverment of England. One provincial army, or- 

"Schylor's Journal. 



No. 112.] 665 

ganized by the colonies for the attack of Montreal, was wasted 
by disease, while awaiting assistance, which was never supplied ; 
another was disbanded, when the inadequate naval attack of Eng- 
land had failed. 



CHAPTER III. 

TO THE CAMPAIGN OF DIESKAU. 

The valley of Champlain, appears not to have been occupied, 
until about 1731, either by England or France, with any enduring 
or tangible possessions. France asserted no other, than an ideal and 
constructive title. The claim of England, had in the interval, been 
augmented by the cession of New-Netherland, which conveyed 
a tenure, uniformly assumed by Holland, to reach the St. Lawrencej 
and by the fealty of the Iroquois, which had submitted to the sove- 
reignty of the British King, the entire environs of Champlain, 
and the recognition of that title by France, in the treaty of 
Utrecht. 

Whilst neither power yielded its dominion to the other, each 
felt the extreme importance of securing the ascendancy upon 
Lake Champlain. The command of that avenue, shed over the 
colonies of the goverment that held it, a broad and ample protec- 
tion. 

As clearly as facts can be adduced from the faint glimmerings 
of history or tradition, it appears probable that, in the early pe- 
riod of the eighteenth century English occupation and improve- 
ment were gradually advancing along the valley of Cfliamplain. 
Crown Point, then distinguished by its present name,* was recog- 
nised in 1690, as a commanding and important position. The 
Common Council of Albany, instructing their scouting party in 
that year, directs them to proceed " to Crown Point, where you 
shall remain and keep good watch by night and by day." This 
fact appears also from the language of the purchase, by Dellius, 
of a tract from the Mohawks, extending " more than twenty 
miles northward of Crown Point." His purchase was so exor- 
bitant in its claims, and comprehended so vast an extent of terri- 
tory, that the Colonial Legislature, without hesitation, abrogated 

• Or its Dutch equivalent. 



666 [Assembly 

the grant, and thus exhibited an exercise over the region of one 
of the highest prerogatives of sovereignty. 

The Crown Point of history is a befiutiful peninsula, forming a 
section of the present township of that name, which is disting- 
uished for its agricultural fertility, and the rare and exceeding 
loveliness of the landscapes its varied scenery affords. The pen- 
insula is formed by Eulwagga Bay, a broad estuary on the west, 
and the Jake upon the east, wliich, at that point, abruptly chang- 
es its course nearly at right angles, and is compressed from a wide 
expanse into a narrow channel. A vast wilderness, extended on 
either side of Lake Champlain, from tlie settlements on the 
Hudson to the Canadian hamlets, broken by rugged and imprac- 
ticable mountains and ravines, and traversed by deep or rapid 
streams. No track penetrated it, except the path of -the In- 
dian. Tlie lake, in its navigation, or ])y its ice, afforded the only 
avenue of mutual invasion. The most unpracticed eye, at once 
perceives that Canada could be the most efficiently shielded by 
the occupation of Crown Point, that position forming the portals 
of the lake. Impressed,' no doubt, by these considerations, the 
Frjnch Vice-regal government, violating the sanctions of treaties, 
and the immunities of a profound peace, suddenly advanced 
through the lake, and seized by a military force, a promontory 
directly opposite Crown Point, and immediately after, that posi- 
tion itself. 

The government of New-York, at that period fallen into 
neiveles^ and inefficient hands, or ignorant of this daring and 
impetuous act of French audacity, remained supine, while the 
formidable fortress of St. Frederic arose on the extremity of Crown 
Point, and secured to France the dominion of the lake. 

The protection of Canada from the inroads of the Iroquois, was 
the ostensible reason and excuse of this measure, assigned by 
France. Its real purpose, besides embracing the control of the 
lake, contemplated a still dee|>er policy. Occupying a position 
at the threshold of the English possessions, they could menace 
and impede their progress, and at any moment direct against their 
expanded and defenceless settlements, sudden and destructive 
assaults. Crow^n Point. was within the conceded possessions of 



No. 112.] 667 

the Iroquois, aud by the treaty of Utrecht, their territory was 
guaranteed to remain " inviolate by any occupation or encroach- 
ment of France." The Governor of New- York was at length 
aroused from his lethargy, by the indignant voice of Shirley of 
Massachusetts, to contemplate the arms of France aud a formida- 
ble fortress, far within the limits of his asserted jurisdiction. 
Massachusetts, always prompt and energetic in sustaining the 
national glory, and in redressing the w^rongs of the colonies, 
offered to New- York to unite at once with her in an expostula- 
tion on the subject, with the French functionaries, and in the 
ultimate necessity, to unite their arms to repel the aggression. The 
occupation of Crown Point was only a link in the system, by 
which France was encircling the colonies of England by a cordon 
of fortresses. The colonics invoked in vain the attention of the 
home government, to these encroachments. In vain were pro- 
testations and memorials laid at the foot ot the throne, urging 
that the safety and the colonial existence of New England and 
New-York w^ere endangered by the occupation of Crown Point. 

The' earnest and imploring voice of the colonies fell on cold 
and deafened ears. To the vision of the British ministry, Ame- 
rica was a wilderness, destitute of present fruition and promises 
of the future. Walpole^ whose sagacity seemed to endow him 
almost with prophetic prescience in the affairs of Europe, could 
detect no germ of future empire in the wilds of America. 

Leading minds in the colonies were at that day suspicious that 
sinister and corrupt motives were influencing the British ministry, 
" who having reasons for keeping well with the court of France 
the project" (of occupying the Ohio) " w^as not only dropped, 
but the French were encouraged to build the fort of Crown Point 
upon the territory of New- York."* Such was the denunciation 
of Spotswood, of Virginia. England, by tlie ignolde treaty of 
Aix La Chapelle, relinquished to France the fortress of Luuis- 
burgh, subjugated by the treasures and blood of New England, 
but left to that power witliout a protest, the possession of Crown 
Point. It was not until 1755, that the British government, with 
emphasis and decision, demanded from France the demolition of 

• Gov. Spotswood, of Virginia. 



I G68 [Assembly 

the fortress of St. Frederic. Diplomacy could not thus retrieve, 
after the occupation of a quarter of a <?entury, territory lost by 
imbecility or corruption. 

Accumulated acts of neglect and injustice of the mother country 
such as these, prepared and matured the colonies for indepen- 
dence. Had they been cherished by the guardian care of Eng- 
land, they might have rested upon her arm in effeminacy and 
dependence. Abandoned to the suggestions of their own policy, 
they were taught by these exigencies high and practical lessons 
of self-government. Compelled by a common danger, to mutual 
consultation and concerted action, they were admonished of the 
necessity and strength of a confederated union. Compelled to 
rely afone for protection and safety, upon their own arms and 
energies, they were prompt to resist aggression and to avenge 
injury. The deep fountains of tlieir capacities w^ere revealed to 
themselves, by the parsimonious policy of England, that con- 
strained the colonies to resort to their domestic resources in their 
own protection and defence. 

Had Canada been a British province, New England and New- 
York might have been exempt from the appalling scenes of car- 
nage and suffering which are now impressed on their history ; 
but the very exposures and dangers of their position, and the 
assaults and cruelties of a powerful and daring enemy, endowed 
them with lofty moral and physical courage ; with endurance in 
suffering ; with boldness and wisdom in council, and promptitude 
and decision in action. These are the elements of freedom. 

Men, who literally tilled the earth witli tlie musket at their 
sides, were ripening for any emergency and prepared to defend 
the heritage, endeared by their blood and sorrows, against every 
foe and any wrong. The career of the colonies, neglected, con- 
temned and suifering, was to them a baptism of blood and sorrow, 
that consecrated a free and ennobled spirit equal to any sacrifice 
or any conflict. The wars into which the colonies were forced by 
this policy of England, and the proximity of the. French provinces, 
afforded the severe schools for their military education. The 
shores of Lake Champlain formed the nursery of future heroes of 



No. 112.] C69 

the Revolution. The military spirit was here enkindled, that in 
after years blazed at Bunker Hill, and Bennington and Saratoga; 
and here, amid victory and defeat, the science and tactics of I^u- 
rope were inculcated and diffused throughout the broad colonies. 

If Washington was taught on the banks of the Monongahela to 
lead armies and to achieve independence to his country, Putnam 
and Stark, Pomeroy and Prescott, amid the forests and morasses 
of Horicon and Champlain, and beneath the walls if Ticonderoga, 
were formed to guide and conquer in the battles of freedom. 
Human wisdom, in her philosophy, may pause to contemplate 
thefe striking and singular coincidences, and to trace these causes 
to their momentous results ; but the eye of faith will reverence 
them as the hidden workings of an overruling and beneficent 
Providence, who in these events was unfulding the elements and 
forming the agents of a mighty revolution, destined not only to 
sever a kingdom, but to change the course of human events. 

An ordinance of the King of France had authorized- as early as 
1C76, the issuing of grants of lands situated in Canada. In ac- 
cordance with this power and assuming the sovereignty of France 
over the valley of Lake Champlain, the government of Canada 
had caused a survey to be made of the lake and its contiguous 
territory, the year succeeding the erection of the works at Crown 
Point. Many of the names of the headlands, islands and other 
topographical features of the lake, which are still perpetuated, 
are derived from that survey. In their descriptive force and 
beauty, they almost rival the euphony and appropriateness of the 
Indian nomenclature. A map and chart based upon that survey, 
was published at Montreal in 1748, and has been scarcely sur- 
passed by any subsequently made, in its scientific aspect or minute- 
ness and accuracy. Extensive grants, under the ordinance of 
1676, upon both sides of the lake, are delineated upon that map. 
A Seigniory was granted to the Sieur Robert, the royal storekeeper 
at Montreal, in June, 1737. This grant, which seems to have 
been the only one issued for land within the limits of the county 
of Essex, embraced " three leagues in front by two leagues in 
depth, on the west side of Lake Champlain, taking, in going 
down, one league below the River Boquet, and in going up, two 



670 [Assembly 

leagues and a half above said river."* These boundaries compre- 
hend all of the present town of Essex and a large proportion of 
Willsboro'. The tract was soon after formally laid out and al- 
lotted bj an official surveyor. We have* no evidence that any 
permanent and actual occupation was formed under these grants. 
Kalm, who visited the region at an early period, asserts that few 
colonies, and these only in the vicinity of the fortresses, were form- 
ed by the French during their occupation. 

The devastation in 1745, of the settlement of Saratoga, by an 
Indian and French force, armed and organized at Crown Point, 
and the deeper atrocities committed a. few years later at Hoosick, 
by the same bands, while they increased the apprehensions of the 
colonies, excited to the highest intensity the desire and purpose 
of vengeance. This feeling could- be best consummated in the 
destruction of St. Frederic. Whilst that fortress was occupied 
by a powerful and vigilant rival, the tenure of life and property 
in the adjacent English colonies, was esteemed so precarious 
and valueless, that the country north of the Mohawk, until the 
conquest of Amherst, was nearly depopulated. 

The admonitions of the provincial governments, and the cry of 
alarm and agitation that arose from every section of the colonies, 
at length aroused the English ministry to the duty of their pro- 
tection, and the assertion of the honor of Britain. Between France 
and England a peace, under the solemnities of treaty, still exist- 
ed. Four distinct expeditions were organized, professedly to 
guard the colonial possessions of England, but prepared, at the 
propitious moment, to be hurled upon the stronghold of French 
power. In this combination, an army designed for the reduction 
of Crown Point, was assembled at Albany, and confided to the 
command of William Johnson. The zeal and solicitude of New- 
England, for the conquest of the fortresses upon Champlain, 
exasperated by the alarms and calamities of a quarter of a centu- 
ry, excited all the enthusiasm of her bold and energetic yeomanry. 
Every requisition of the government was met amply and with 
promptitude. Levies from New-York and New-England consti- 
tuted all the forces demanded. 

* Doc. History. 



No. 112.] 671 

France was not insensible to the gathering storm, which began 
to lower around her American empire, and prepared to meet and 
avert it. 



CHAPTER IV. 

TO THE EXPEDITION OF ABECRROMBIE. 

The bold and rocky cliffs of Ticonderoga, at the confluence of 
the outlet of Horicon with Lake Champlain, a position still moie 
imposing than Crown Point, had attracted the military eye of 
the French engineers. The foundations of Fort Carillon had just 
been laid ;* a fortress and a site destined to a terrific pre-eminence 
in the future scenes of a sanguinary warfare. 

Johnson, contemplating an attack upon Ticonderoga and Crown 
Point, advanced with his provincial army to Horiconf of the In- 
dians, St. Sacrament of the French, and then first called Lake 
George, " not only in honor of his majesty, but to ascertain his 
undoubted dominion here."| His progress was arrested by start- 
ling and unexpected tidings. 

Dieskau had suspended a projected assault upon Oswego, on 
hearing upon his march, of the approach of the American arma- 
ment ; and with the high and impulsive daring of his age and coun- ^ 
try, decided to anticipate and avert the menaced blow, by a bold 
and efiectual attack. 

Collecting a force of French and Indians at St. Frederic and 
Carillon, he promptly and- secretly passed up Lake Cliamplain, 
intending to seize and destroy the depot of the English army at 
Fort Edward. Bewildered in the forests, or betrayed by his 
guides, instead of marching towards that point, he advanced in, 
the direction of Lake George and the encampment of Johnson. 
These events, and others upon the same theatre, belonging to the 
annals of other counties, I may only glance at, to preserve un- 
broken the chain of occurrences On the 8th of September, 1755, 

* Carillon appears to bear the same signification, as the Indian name " Chc-onderoga," the 
original of Ticonderoga, noise-chimo, in allusion doubtless to the brawling waters. 

f Horicon, i. e. " The Silver Water."' How beautiful and appropriate the application. 

I Johnson letter. 



673 [Assembly 

an immature and ill-directed attack was precipitated upon the 
French, and a disastrous repulse ensued. Williams, a distin- 
guished son of Massachusetts, and Hendrick, the venerable and 
heroic chieftain of the Mohawks, were slain, A second and a 
third conflict on the same day, and nearly upon the same ground, 
redeemed the disasters of the first. Dieskau wounded and a pri- 
soner, with the loss to France of near a thousand men, were 
results as auspicious and glorious to Britain, as the defeat of Brad- 
dock, in July of the same year, had beencalamitous and disgrace- 
ful. 

The narrative of this victory will always warm the heart of the 
American historian with interest and exultation ; for this was the 
first field in which provincialists of the colonies, led by their own 
citizens, met on equal terms, and vanquished the trained veterans 
of Europe. 

Had Johnson know^n as well to use victory as his army to 
achieve it, the conquest of Carillon, scarcely commenced, and of 
St. Frederic, in a dilapidated condition, would liave been the re- 
sult and the reward of his triumph ; but the occasion was lost, in 
the profitless waste of the season, in the erection upon Lake 
George, of Fort.William Henry. 

It was not until the summer succeeding these exciting events, 
that open and mutual declarations of War were proclaimed be- 
tween France and England. The contest languished during the 
year 1756 upon the borders of Champlain. In that year, another 
force was organized for the' attack of Crown Point. Again the 
colonies presented their required contingents, but delays, dissen- 
ions, the incapacity and indecision of the English commanders, 
again exhausted the season. Offensive operations, were limited 
to the bold and romantic exploits of the American rangers and 
the partizan corps of France. 

In one of these fearless incursions, Rogers and Starks had pen- 
etrated with a force of less that eighty men, to a point between 
the French fortresses, near the mouth of a stream, since know^n 
as Putnam's creek, and tliere in ambush, awaited tlieir victims. 
A party of French are passing in gay and joyous security, on the 
ice toward Ticonderoga. Part are taken, the rest escape and 



No. 112. i 673 

alarm the garrison. The Rangers attempt to retreat, and pressing 
rapidly along the snow path, in Indian file, as was their custom, 
on ascending the crest of a hill, receive the fire of an overwhelm- 
ing force, posted with every advantage to receive them.* A fierce 
and bloody conflict ensued, protracted from near meridian until 
evening. The Rangers retreating to a hill, are protected by the eo- 
vert of the trees and there gallantly sustain the unequal conflict. 
Rogers, twice wounded yields the command o± the little band to 
Starts, who with infinite skill and courage, guides the battle, repul- 
ses the foe, with a loss far exceeding his entire force, and at night 
conducts a successful retreat to Lake George. Leaving there his 
wounded and exhausted companions, Starks, accompanied by only 
two volunteers, traverses on snow shoes, a distance of forty miles, 
and returns to them, with aid and supplies the second morning. 
This courageous band reduced to forty eight effective men, with 
their prisoners returmed to Fort William Henry in safety and tri- 
umph.! This incident brilliant as it appears, is rivaled, if not 
eclipsed by a chivalric and daring exploit of the French, A de- 
tachment of fifteen hundred French and Canadians, lead by Vau- 
dreuil, traversed the ice and snows of Champlain and Lake 
George, a distance of more than one hundred miles, traveling 
upon snow shoes, " their provisions on sledges drawn by dogs, 
a bear skin for their couch " and " a simple veil " their only 
covering.| Their errand, the surprise and capture of William 
Henry. The garrison was wary and vigilant. The fort was de- 
fended with success, but the vessels and batteaux, with the 
store houses and huts of the Rangers were consumed. t 

A bold and secret attack by . English boats upon the outworks 
and flotilla at Ticonderoga, was some months after, signally de- 
feated with severe loss. 

The Northern colonies, still eager for the expulsion of the 
French from their borders, acceded to the requisition of Lou- 
don, and assumed to raise four thousand troops, for the cam- 
paign of 1757. These contingents, they supposed were designed 
for the reduction of Crown Point and Ticonderoga. Loudon 

•Tliis battle is sapposed to have oeourred near the residence of M. B. Townsendj ijQ Crows 
Point. C. Fentcn. 

t Sparks Life of Stark*. i: Bancroft 

[As. Tr. '53.1 S S 



674 [Assembly 

either from caprice or instability, suddenly announced the aban- 
donment of that expedition, and his purpose of uniting his forces 
for the conquest of Louisburgh. This futile and impracticable 
scheme, left the frontier of the colonies, open and unprotected. 
The vigilant and sagacious enemy, from their watch towers, at 
Carrillon, saw the error and prepared promptly to seize the ad- 
vantage, 

Montcalm returning triumphant, from the conquest of Oswego, 
held a council at Montreal, of Indian tribes, gathered from 
Acadia to Lake Superior. He mingled in their dances and chant- 
ed their war songs, captivating their hearts by his largesses and 
kindness, and exciting their angry passions, by visions of revenge 
and plunder. These savage warriors embarked in two hundred 
canoes, bearing the distinctive pennons of the various nations j the 
priest accompanying their converts, and while the war chants 
strangely mingled with the hymn of the missionary, passed up 
Lake Champlain to unite at Ticonderoga, their rude forces, with 
the legions of Montcalm. 

These had been rapidly assembled at Ticonderoga and Crown 
Point, and at the close of July, 1757, the French army proceeded 
to the assault of Fort William Henry. On the second of August 
Montcalm invested the devoted fortress. The feeble and inade- 
quate garrison, after a heroic defence, protracted in the vain hope 
of succor, that cowardice and imbecility withheld, yielded to 
the French arms. Their capitulation guaranteed to them safety 
and protection, under every solemnity of civilized warfare. Fif- 
teen hundred persons, embracing these gallant soldiers, their wives 
and children, were mercilessly slain, or carried into captivity by 
the savage allies of France, while numbers of Indians within the 
Fort were seized, and perished with barbarous and lingering tor- 
tures.* This ferocious massacre, so immediately succeeding a 
similar atrocity at Oswego, and liis other sanctions of Indian bar- 
barities, have cast a deep shade upon the fame of Montcalm, that 
his own denial, the apologies of his advocates, his subsequent 
glorious defene" j VTiconderoga, and his still more glorious death 



No. 112. 1 675 

before Quebec, cannot redeem. The great purpose of this move- 
ment achieved, the French having demolished the fortification, 
bearing with them the artillery, military stores, and English flo- 
tilla, returned to their fortresses on Champlain. Grief, indigna- 
tion and horror, at this event, pervaded and agitated Britain and 
th« colonies. 

y 

The hour of the massacre at the " bloody pass " marks the 
culmination of French power upon the continent of America. 
No armament of France, after the conquest of William Henry, 
penetrated south of Ticonderoga, in the territory of New- York. 
Her subsequent history exhibits a dark series of disasters and 
declensions, illumined by occasional gleams of glory and triumph, 
until the American empire of France was totally extinguished by 
the treaty of 1762. 



CHAPTER V. 

THE CAMPAIGNS OF ABERCROMBIE AND AMHEKST. 

England and America were raised from their humiliation and 
despondency by the potent genius and splendid combinations of 
Pitt. His ardent appeals to the patriotism of the colonies, al- 
though enforced by no coercions of power, aroused and enlisted 
their whole energies in support of that gigantic scheme, which 
contemplated a simultaneous attack upon all the widely extended 
dominions of France. More than nine thousand provincial troops, 
responding with zeal and alacrity to the summons of Britain, 
assembled on Lake George in the early summer of 1758. X^ese 
contingents, combined with seven thousand British veterans, 
formed the most brilliant and powerful army before marshalled 
upon the American continent, under the flag of England. The 
bosom of an American lake never bore a more gorgeous and im- 
posing military spectacle, than was exhibited in the passage 
through Lake George, of Abercrombie's armament. A flotilla of 
nine hundied batteaux, and one hundred and thirty-five boats, 
with rafts armed with artillery, broke the deep silence and seclu- 
sion of this romantic lake, whose rugg^-d banks were then unen- 
livened by the habitations of man. Amid the clangor of mar- 
tial music, the glitter of burnished arms, the gleaming of bright 



670 [Assembly 

scarlet, mingled with the humbler green of the Eangers, with 
their banners floating in the breeze, the vast flotilla glided rapidly 
over the calm waters, bearing the proud host, exhilerated by the 
inspirations of heroism, and the confidence of victory. 

The fearless Howe led the van of this magnificent array. The 
little cove, still known as Howe's Landing, indicates the point, 
where on the 6th of July, 1758, the army disembarked, ^hat 
night, Howe reposing on his bearskin couch with Stark, discussed 
with an anxious and foreboding spirit, the hopes and fears of the 
morrow.* , Equal in age, alike daring and intrepid ; the one a 
descendant of royalty, and the other a humb\e pioneer of New 
Hampshire, there existed between them a kindred spirit, an^ 
high mutual esteem. The English army advanced from the land- 
ing, in four columns. That led by Howe, bewildered in the intri- 
cacies of the dense forest, encountered a fugitive battallion of the 
French, wandering in equal perplexity. The latter, composed of 
French and Indians, familiar with that warfare, promptly and 
vigorously assailed their enemy. The British regulars surprised 
and intimidated by the savage war-hoop, recoiled and faltered. 
The provincial Rangers of Stark and Rogers saved the day. In 
the death of Lord Howe, who fell at the first assault, the British 
army lost its vital principle, the controlling and guiding spirit of 
its success. Generous and gentle, bold and accomplished, in- 
stinct with genius and heroism, he died deeply lamented. Mas- 
sachusetts conferred on him a monument in Westminister Abbey. 

His body borne in state, even amid the excitement and disas- 
ters of defeat, was conveyed to Albany, and buried within the 
walls of a church, his vault marked by heraldic insignia, and his 
obsequies performed with every pomp of military display, and all 
the solemnities of religious rituals. Forty-four years had elapsed, 
and in the progress of improvement that edifice was demolished, 
and the grave of Howe exposed. The decayed coffin of rich 
mahogony was revealed, that contained the ashes of the gallant 
and noble dead, enshrouded in habiliments of gorgeous silk, 
the hair dressed in the fashion of the age, and still stiffened by 
its appliances J the ribbon that bound it yet black and glossy. 

•Sparks' Life of Stait. 



No. 112.J ' 677 

All, on exposure shrank into dust, and the relics of the high bred 
and gifted noble were conveyed by vulgar hands to the common 
charnel house, and mingled with the promiscuous dead.* 

The vascilation and delay of Abercrombie afforded to his alert 
and sagacious antagonist the opportunity ot perfecting his defences. 
Trees were felled, with their limbs interlaced, or pointed and pro- 
jecting outward, forming an abattis, impregnable to the assaults 
of infantry, and an outer protection to his ill-manned and imper- 
fect works. A fresh impulse, suggested by a false and rash sur- 
rey, induced the British commander to order an attack, without 
the presence of his powerful artillery. Against its fire the French 
lines would have afforded little protection. The gallant army 
advanced to the murderous assault, with the calmness and pre- 
cision of a parade, and maintained for five hours a hopeless con- 
flict, unsurpassed in the annals of warfare, for its military devo- 
tion and bloody sacrifices. 

The Provincials emulated the veterans, many of whom were 
slaughtered in the trenches, and a few upon the very ramparts. 
Abercrombie, himself, in a place of security, did not withdraw 
kis troops from this frightfwl havoc, until two thousand had been 
sacrjficeil. Although still quadruple, the force of the French, 
abundantly provided with all the means ©f a successful invest- 
ment, alarmed, and with no self-reliance, he inglori«»sly re- 
treated, and fled to the southern extremity of Lake George. 

Mon:tcalm, doubtless detecting the point, which in after years 
made the fortress vulnerable to Burgoyne, exclaimed in the pride 
and consciousness of genius, " had I to beseige Fort Carillon, I 
would only ask six mortars and two pieces of artillery. f While 
Abercrombie, paralysed by his defeat, remained idle, Montcalm 
poured a desultory warfare upon the English settlements. 

The year 1759, developed still bolder and more decided schemes 
for the annihilation of French power in Canada. Amherst, the 
successor of Abercrombie, was designated to lead a new arma- 

* Mrs. Coefarsne. Original MSS of Elkaoah Watsos. 
t Bftucivft, 



678 [ASSTEMBLY 

ment against the Fortresses upon lake Champlaiu, and after their 
conquest, penetrating into Canada, to unite his forces with Wolf, 
beneath the walls of Quebec. The subjugation of New France, 
had become, in England, tlie cherished purpose of public policy, 
and the fervid aspiration of national sentiment. The colonies, with 
hopes so often disappointed, despondent of success, bleeding and 
impoverished, did not exhibit their usual zeal and promptitude, in 
meeting the requisitions of Britain.* Six thousand provincials, 
with an equal number of regulars, assembled in the last days of 
June, at Lake George. On the 26th of July, Amherst, with his 
force, invested Ticonderoga. Montcalm, alarmed at the impend- 
ing descent of Wolf upon Quebec, and with no adequate supplies 
or aid from Europe, had already withdrawn the strength of his 
army from the fortress of Champlain, and had hastened himself 
to the defence of the citadel of New France. Boulamarque, on 
the fourth day of the investment, abandoned and dismantled 
Ticonderoga, and securing his munitions, had crtnducted the garri- 
son to Crown Point. Amherst immediately occupied the evacuated 
works. 

This conquest, the desire and labor of so many yeajs, was at 
length achieved, almost without bloodshed. Townsend, the coun- 
terpart of Howe, young, brave and noble, full oi hope and pro- 
mise, was almost the only sacrifice. Two weeks were spent in 
the guardtd and anxious f crutiny of his spies and savages, before 
Aiftkei'st was assured that Crown Point also had hee?i abandoned. 
Exact, cautious and fettered, by the prescribed formula of mili- 
tary progress, he lingered three momentous months, in perfec- 
ting an ascendancy upon the lake, that genius and enterprise 
would have grasped. In the interval of this delay, Amherst had 
caused a small flotilla to be constructed at Tic<3nderoga. Escorted 
by this fleet, he embarked his army on the 11 Ih day of October, a 
month after the conquest of Quebec, with the design of advancing 
into Canada. Arrssted by an autumnal tempest, wliich often 
sweeps the lake at that advanced season, he was constrained to 
lead back his forces to Crowvi PoinVand Ticonderoga. The Ea val 
armamentcontinued its advance, pursued and attacked the Frendi 
fleet. This first conflict, upon the waters of Champlain, ocour- 



No. 112.] 679 

red almost upon tlie theatre in another centnry, of Madonough's 
illustrious victory. 

^^ The works at Ticanderoga were enlarged and improved, and ft 
new fortress, with an exorbitant expenditure of ten milliona of 
dollars, erected at Crown Point, near the site of Fort St. Frederic. 
Each of these works, was constructed on a scale of vast aiid im- 
posing magnificence. The fort and iield works at Ticonderoga, 
spread over an area of several miles, and combined all the ele- 
ments of strength that science and labor could accomplish. The 
new fort at Crown Point, its trenches cut through the massive 
rock, and its ramparts elevated twenty-five feet in height, em- 
braced seven acres within its walls. 

The remains of these fortresses, now crumbling ruins, still 
prove their former splendor and strength. They are now guarded 
and preserved by private taste and intelligence, from the vandal 
outrages which were rapidly destroying them. We may cherish 
the hope, that the most extensive and imposing ruins in America, 
redolent with the brigMest historical associations, and becoming 
shrouded in the venerableness of antiquity, will be perpetuated 
to excite the admiration and to attract the pilgrimage of future 
ages. These fields of glory are how tilled in the peaceful pursuits 
of husbandry. In tlie vicinity of Ticonderoga, balls, muskets, 
swords, and numeroHS other relics of war, ave constantly revealed. 
At one period, the line of the fatal abattis, might almost be traced 
by these dumb but significant memorials of the spot, where (he 
harvest of death had been the most exuberant. 

The course of the circumvallations and trenches, singularly com- 
plex and interlaced, may readily be distinguished. Part of the 
battlements rising above the rocky cliff are almost entire. The 
line of the ramparts is still traced ; the ruins of a portion of the 
barracks remain, although private oupidity has removed much of 
the brick and stone of the buildings. The bakery is in a state of 
good preservation. At Crown Point the r^in is still better preser- 
ved, although here the deep interest that entrances at Ticonderoga, 
is less profound and exciting. The mounds of Fort St. Frederic are 
yet perceptible, although fallen and (Jilapidated. The oven, the 
covered, way, and magasiiae, are easily distinguished. The fort 



580 [Assembly 

erected by Amherst, might even now be restored. The form of the 
vast quadrangular barracks, which enclosed the esplanade, may 
still be distinguished ; one side has been totally demolished, and 
another partially removed. They formed,. until the desecration 
was arrested by the present proprietors, quarries that supplied 
building material to a wide region. Two of these barracks re- 
main in partial preservation, one 192 feet and the other 216 feet 
In length. The walls yet stand, and although roofless, without 
floors, and the beams charred and blackened, they are in more 
perfect condition than any other part of either ruin. The inner 
walls bear the soldiers' idle scribblings of almost a century ago ; 
each room contains a broad and lofty fireplace. The garrison 
well, almost one hundred feet de.ep, remains. The direction of 
the covered way, conducting to the lake, although occasionally 
fallen in, may readily be discerned. 

How changed the scenes, since the chivalry of France and Eng- 
land, and the savage warriors from Acadia to the precincts of 
Hudson's Bay, were marshalled on these shores. Last autumi^^ 
standing on a lofty eminence on the southern limits of Essex coun- 
ty, I gazed far along the bold banks and tranquil bosom of Lake 
George. The view was as lovely as in the age of Montcalm and 
Howe, but not a sound broke the deep stillness of nature, not 
a form interrupted its solitude. When I stood amid the ruins of 
Grown Point, cattle were ruminating in its bastion, and a solitary 
robin twittered among the branches of a tree, whose roots were 
interlaced among the rocks of the ramparts. I saw sheep feeding 
upon the walls of Fort Carillon, and plucked wild grap«>s from a 
vine clustering upon the ruins of its magazine. 

The English fort at Crown Point was esteemed impregnable to 
any ordinary attack The deep ditch, and high walls of ponde- 
rous masonry, which surmounted it, and the solid work of its 
foundations, guarded it alike from assault or gradual approaches. 
Formidable as it then appeared. At is believed that it would be 
untenable against the heavier ordinance and increased power of 
the projectiles of modern science. 

This campaign of Amherst was marked by only two other events, 
but of widely different aspects. The one was the construction of 



No. 112.] 681 

a military road from the Connecticut river to tlie fortresses upon 
Lake Champlain — a measure suggested by wise and beneficent 
policy. The other incitfeut, was the total destruction, by a de- 
tachment of Rangers, under Rogers, of the village of the St. Fran- 
cis Indians, with fire and the swoM. 

While Amherst thus procrastinated, the last convulsive al- 
though nearly successful struggle for dominion had been made by 
the French, in the attempted recapture of Quebec. After this 
failure, the scattered fragments of the French power were concen- 
trated at Montreal. Haviland conducted an army from Crown 
Point, for its attack, and united with Amherst and Murray on the 
shores of the St. Lawrence. On the 8th September, 1760, Vau- 
dreuil capitulated, and yielded to England the sceptre of New 
Fraaee. 



CHAPTER VL 

THE COLOSIZATION. 

The infereace derived from the subsequent aspect of the coun- 
try, and the silence of documents and history on the subject is 
strong if not conclusive that the actual occupation of the Cham- 
plain valley by the French, for practical and agricultural purpo- 
ses, although they'maintained their military ascendancy for more 
than a fourth of a ceatury, did n«t extend far beyond the protec- 
tion of their fortresses. 

The extent and character of these early settlements is a ques- 
tion of strong interest, as well in the illustration it affords of the 
history of the region, as in the antiquarian researches it demands. 
Whatever may have been the number or situation of the French 
occupants, they appear to have receded before the approach of 
the victorious arms of Amherst, and probably accompanied the 
retreat of the French forces. The most decisive evidence re- 
mains of the presence at some former period of a large and civil- 
ized community in the vicinity of Crown Point. The vestiges of 
their occupation which still exist, indicate a people who knew 
the comforts and amenities of life, and possessed numbers and 
means to secure their enjoyment. I do not hesitate to refer 



^ 682 [AseEjasLT 

their existence to the'epoch of th? French ascendancy, if not to 
a still more remote period. The allusions of ancient MSS cor- 
roborate the traditions preserved in the reminiscences of aged 
persons, that a population> ranging in the estimate from fifteen 
hundred to tliree thousand persons, were gathered around the 
fortress of St. Frederic. A very important trafic it is known ex- 
isted between the French and English possessions as early as 
1700, and that Lake Champlain was the medium of the intercourse. 
Several years anterior to that period, Crown Point, it will be re- 
collected, was referred to, as a prominent land mark in the pub- 
lic instructions of the municipal authorities of Albany. May it 
not have been, previous to the French occupation, an important 
mart of this commerce ? We confidently assume the conclusion, 
that Crown Point, at an early period, was a conspicuous and 
flourishing trading post, where the commodities of France and 
England were interchanged, and where the Indians congregated 
from widely expanded hunting grounds, to trafic their peltries. 

We have already britfly sketched the peninsular position of 
Crown Point — one side relating on Bulwagga bay, and the other 
washed by the waters of the lake. The clearest evidences re- 
main, of the ground, for maiiy rods along the margin of the bay, 
having been graded and formed into an artificial slope, inclining 
to the water. Ruins of enclosures are still visible. Tihe frag- 
ments of a former wall, in one instance, distinctly mark its course. 
Trees wlMch have spj-mig up, along the line of the wall, have 
supported and preserved spaces of it almost entire. This enclo- 
sure, embracing an area of about two acres, was evidently a fruit 
yard or garden. Jb'ruit trees were flourishing in it within the 
recollection of the present owner. 

An avenue seems to have swept in a wide curvature along the 
margin of the lake, in front of the enclosures,' and approached a 
landing place, adapted to the craft which at that time navigated 
its waters. Still more, distinct and palpable indications, are ex- 
hibited parallel to this avenue, upon the crest of a slight emi- 
nence, of the former residence of a dvn^e and prosperous popula- 
tion. A street m«y be traced, reaching a long distance towards 



No. 112.] to 

the main land, raised and covered with broken stone not unlike 
the McAdara roads of the present day. The ruins of cellars, 
many of which are excavated from the solid rock, line this street 
on each side. The compact arrangement of these cellars and the 
narrowness of the avenue, present a stiiking analogy to the anti- 
quated villages in Canada, founded by the Fiench, and leave 
little doubt that their origin was the same. 

No vestige of this by-gone age, so thrilled upon my feelings and 
excited my imagination, as the remnant of the sidewalk along 
this street. It is formed of flagging similar to that now in use in 
our cities. The stones are smooth and worn, and remain in the 
position they were left by the generation who once thronged them 
in the busy scenes of life. We were assured by the occupant of 
the ground, that he has displaced many continuous rods of this 
pavement, iii the course of his agricultural operations, wWch 
were in perfect preservation. 

To tread upon tlie pathway of a people whose name and line- 
age is forgotten; whose history is extinct, and whose \eyy era is 
obscured, impresses the mind with a deeply saddening and so- 
lemnizing influence. The^e and equally marked indications, 
extend over a wide space about the fort and along the shores of 
the lake. Impressive evidences exi>.t, near tlie re-ideuce of Col. 
Tremble, of forrae.r extensive habitations. Two large cemeteiiss, 
one near the garrison grounds and the other upon the last locality, 
attest that tlie living, in numerous assemblies, once animated 
these scenes. 

The worthy occupant of tlic former, remarked, without seeming 
conscious that he was yielding to the dictate of a refined senti- 
ment, that te had felt constrained in particular spots to arrest 
the plow, because it so fearfully exposed the relics of the dead. 

Still another touching evidence remains tlmt man, in an ad- 
vanced stage of societjj has loft his foot-prinis on these scenes, 
to Jndicate his former presence. Asparagus, other hiirdy plants 
and shrubs, usually cheribhed by the hand of human cnlliu-e, 
still flourish, wild and uncared for, upon these fiehls. The set- 
tlers, who occupied the territory after the revolution, fouad, in 



681 [Assembly 

an area of about four miles from the fort, not a tree or a bush to 
obstruct the view over' the beautiful and wide champaign, that 
bad been once highly cultivated. Now a heavy forest covers 
half the tract. Rogers, in describing one of his predatory excur- 
sions, speaks of luxuriant crops waving upon these fields, and on 
another occasion, he alludes to his firing, in a sudden foray, the 
village itself, Kalm, the Swedish traveller, saw about the fort 
in 1749, " a considerable settlement," and " pleasant cultivated 
gardens," and " a neat little church within the ramparts." 
Persons recently deceased, whose recollection extended to a 
period beyond the revolution, recalled Crown Point when its 
business operations were conducted in several stores. A circum- 
stance occurring at a later period, which we shall introduce, with 
its evidences, in a subsequent part of this narrative, that seems 
to have contemplated Crown Point as the capital of aprojected 
province, is strongly suggestive of its central position and politi- 
cal importance. A solitary farm house, now occupies the penin- 
sula of Crown Point. I have been allured by the pathos and 
romance of a subject that I believe has no parallel in this country, 
to yield an unusual space to its consideration. 

Althongla Canada e©ntinued in the military occupation of the 
armies of England, the «louds and uncertainties, which shrouded 
her future policy in reference to the permanent acquisition of the 
•o-untry, retarded the settlement of the environis of Lake (Eham- 
plain by American emigrants. The officers and soldiers, of both 
the regular and provincial line, in their repeated campaigns, had 
become familiar with the region, and appreciated its beauty and 
fertility. The teeming west was still the domain of the savage. 
Those impediments to colonization were dispelled, when, by the 
treaty of 1763, Canada, Acadia and Cape ^I'eton, were ceded to 
England. 

A proclamation made, Oct. 7th, 1763, by the King of Great 
Britain, authorized the colonial governors to issue grants of land 
on either side of Lake Champlain. The reduced officers and men, 
who had served in the Canadian campaigns, were especially to be 
regarded in the issuing of these grants. The holders were em- 
powered, by the terms of their grants, to make locations upon any 



No. 112.] 6S5 

unappropriated lands. This revolution in the attitude of the 
country, communicated a new impulse to its affairSj and opened 
its portals widely to emigration. . The decade, succeeding the year 
1765, exhibited vast progress in its improvement and cultivation. 
Numerous patents were granted, and locations under them, came 
frequently into collision wit^ grants issued during the French 
intrusion. Stimulated by the value of the lands, immensely en- 
hanced by these events, many grants, utterly fictitious, were as- 
serted, and others revived that had been abrogated by the French 
government, or forfeited by a failure in the performance of their 
conditions. Others derived from France, were preserved by ac- 
tual tenure, and had been recognized by the government of Great 
Britain. Many of these classes, were also violated by location of 
grants, issued in pursuance of the ordinance of 1763. No grants, 
in addition to those already mentioned, appear to have been issued 
by the French authorities, to any portion of Essex county, except 
one of Nov. 15, 1758, which comprehended a large part of the 
territory, which now constitutes the towns of Crown Point and 
Ticonderoga. The adjustment of the conflicting rights of the 
patentees, under these adverse grants of the French and English 
authorities, was extremely difficult and embarrassing. A proper 
sense of justice, induced a suspension by the government in 1768, 
in the issuing of all patents of lands northward of Crown Point, 
which were claimed under any French grants. 

These colisions again threw a cloud over the progress and pros- 
perity of the country. Many of the French claims were ultimate- 
ly repudiated by England, on account of forfeitures through the 
neglect of the conditions upon which they were dependant; others 
were compromised by grants, to the claimants of land in Canada 
of an equivalent value. England exhibited towards the claim- 
ants of these seigniories, great tenderness and liberality, in not 
assuming the obvious position, that the French held the shores of 
Lake Champlain alone by au usurped occupation, which could 
neither create nor convey any rights. These questions agitated 
and disturbed the colonies for several years, and led in Jhe home 
government to anxious and protracted discussions 

The multiplicity and extent of the grants, issued under the or- 
dinance of 1763, the existence of these conflicting claims, and 



686 [Assembly 

the repugnance of many of the patentees to the occupation them- 
selves of their laud, combined to depress their vahie and throw 
them into mai^cet. • 

William Gilljland, a native of Ireland, was at that peri- 
od, a merchant, residing in the city of New-York.* Endow- 
ed with great force of character and enterprise, and possessing 
expanded and sagacious views, he became conspicuous in the 
early settlement of Clinton and Essex counties, and held, for 
many years, a controlling ascendancy in the affairs of that region. 
Patents of rich and extensive Manors, had been, anterior to this 
time, granted in the southern sections of the proviijce. Actuated 
by the desire of forming to himself a similar estate, the mind of 
Mr. Gilliland was attracted to the valley of Champlain,then sur- 
rounded by the circumstances to which allusion has been made. 
He employed, wilh this view, competent agents to explore the 
west shores of the lake. The larger proportion of the territory 
upon the eastern side, had already been granted and appropria- 
ted. He decided upon the result of this survey, to locate his 
proposed domain near the Boquet river, expanding southerly 
along the borders of the lake towards Splitrock. 

The remarkable beauty and fertility of the tract still vindicate 
the wisdom and taQt of his selection. His first location was a sec- 
tion of two thousand acres, under a grant to Joseph Field. This 
was situated immediately south of the Boquet,j and is now de- 
signated as Field's Patent. Mr. Gilliland subsequently purchased 
seven additional claims, which embraced in the aggregate more 

»I am greatly indebted to Osoar F. Sheldon, Esq., of Willsboro, for mnoh vftluable infor- 
mfttion, relative to the early American settlement of this county. He has hoen engaged for 
fifteen years, with great zeal and intelligence, in collecting and arranging materials for its his- 
tory. His efforts have preserved a knowledge of many important facts and incidents, whidi 
otherwise would have been irretrievably lost. With great courtesy and liberality, he submitted 
to my use, the very voluminous MSS. he had arranged, and the narrative already commenced. 
To this source, I refer for most of my authorities. I have also been permitted, by the court- 
esy of the Messrs. Gilliland of Plattsburgh, to inspectand use the original journal of William 
Gilliland, their ancestor. This highly interesting and valuable document, vrae begun May 
loth, 1765, the day his first colony left New-York, and is continued with considerable regu- 
larity for the two suceeeding years, with occasional entries, until 1783. This jouitial is replete 
with interest and invaluable information; I have derived from it, most of the prominent faett 

relative to the settlement of the county presented in my report. 

t The origin of the name of this river is uncertain. Tradition pajB it was thus named by 
Mr. Gilliland, from the profusion of flowers on ita banks. It is also supposed to have been de- 
ri ved &om Gen. Boqnet, ao Stigliah officer of considerable distinction. 



No. 112. j 687 

than fifteen thousand acres of land. The territory he compre- 
hended and located under these grants, commencing a half mile 
south of the river, extended to Judd's patent, which seems to have 
been previously surveyed, near Splitrock, presentiogon the shore 
of the lake a line of about six miles, and spre^iding three or four 
miles into the interior. The purchase of these rights was eJBfect- 
ed in 1764, and the grants issued and the land surveyed the en- 
suing year. Impressed by the natural predilections of an Euro- 
pean to manorial institutions, his policy seems to have designed 
the creation of an estate in fee, in himself, with subordinate es- 
tates to a tenantry held at annual leases. The consummation of 
a scheme of this character, applied to a wild and uncultivated re- 
gion, demanded an exercise of extreme skill and sagacity. The 
inducements presented by Gilliland, to emigration, were conceiv- 
ed in the most liberal and enlarged spirit. His arrangements for 
organizing the proposed colony manifested every regard for its 
comfort and success- He seems to have secured a body of intel- 
ligent and industrious emigrants, formed principally of mechanics 
and laborers, and adapted to endure the toil and privation of a 
pioneer life. Amply provided with implements, tools, provisions, 
and all other requisites, he left New-York with his colony on the 
10th of May, 1765, and occupied ten days in the voyage from that 
city to Albany.* Deciding at this place, to convey a part of the 
emigrants and the material by water, to Fort Edward, he was 
compelled to purchase batteanx at Schenectady, and to transport 
them over land to x4.1bany. In the laborious toil of eight days, 
contending with the strong current and dangerous rapids of the 
Hudson, he reached Fort Edward- in safety. A part of the 
train had proceeded by land, driving with them a herd of forty-one , 
head of neat cattle, destined for the future use of the colony. The 
oxen were employed in the transportation of the boats and effects 
to Lake George. Three days were exhausted in this operation, 
when the little fleet was again launched, and wafted by sails to 
Ticondercga. Two days more of transportation by land, brought 

* I haro before mc ao original letter, which excirpliCoe the delay and tedium of this infer- 
coarse at a still later period. It is dated " Coxsackio 24 miles from Albany fryday 26th Oet 
1792." It says, "The firet day, all day on the Overslaugh, with a fine N. W. wind, 2d day ft 
light broese for a few hours in our favor — then Southerly wind all last night & to day Btrocg 
gale at S E. We havo just oome in to the harloor, from whence I write to tell yoUj that yow 
most itrike oot thcec 3 daye as nothing in the time allotted to my ahgceoce." 



688 [Assembly 

them to the waters of Lake Champlain. One batteau was freight- 
ed with lumber at Ticonderoga, supplied by saw mills which 
were erected during the French occupation. Agjain embarking, 
they arrived on the shores of the Eoquet on the 8th day of June, 
having occupied in their journey thirty days of arduous and in- 
cessant labor. 

After the interval of two days, devoted to rest and preliminary 
arrangement, they proceeded up the river to the point of their 
ultimate destination, and formed their encampment upon an island 
at the base of the falls, which, from that circumstance, still bears 
the name of " Camp Island." With promptness an^ energy ope- 
rations were at once commenced. A road was opened to the falls, 
and by the 15th of that month ground had been cleared, timber 
prepared, and a house, 44 feet by 22, partly erected. "This edi- 
fice was probably the first dwelling built by civilized man, on the 
western shore of Champlain, between Crown Point and Canada. 
The cattle had been driven to Crown Point, and there made to 
swim the narrow passage. Proceeding to a point opposite to 
Splitrock, they were ferried over, and from thence driven through 
the woods to Gilliland's settlement. A part of them were con- 
fined and fed upon the leaves of the trees, but the largest portion 
were turned loose to the unlimited range of the forest.* 

The first great necessity secured, by the erection of a dwelling, 
the colonists prepared for general improvement. The forest was 
opened, the vicinity explored, timber prepared for a saw mill, 
which was erected in the autumn, at the lower part of the falls, 
and supplied with power by a wing dam, which was projected 
into the current, turning the water into a flume that conducted it 
to the mill. 

Game was abundant in the woods j. the most delicious salmon 
thronged the stream, that almost laved their threshold, and the 
beaver meadows yielded them sufficient hay for the approach- 
ing winter. The spontaneous products of a bounteous land were 
thus within the reach of their industry and energies. Meanwhile, 
as these efforts were in progress, Mr. Giliiland had visited Quebec, 

* GilliUud's Jonrnal. 



No. 112.] 689 

and returned ladened with all other appliances to secure the com- 
fort and safety of his people. "During his absence he had ex- 
amined the region with a vigilant eye, upon both shores of the 
lake ; had ascended the navigable streams, sounded their depths, 
and explored their banks. Twelve grants had now been located 
by Mr. Gilliland. Eight of these were situated within the pre- 
sent town of Willsboro ; two at Westport, and two at Salmon 
River, now in Clinton county. A tier of lots, intended for farms, 
was surveyed and numbered in this year (1765), ranging along 
the shore of the lake, from the mouth of the Boquet to Judd^s 
patent. Many of these lots were immediately selected by the 
settlers, but on account of the advanced season were not occu- 
pied until the succeeding spring,'-* The settlement upon the 
Boquet was named "Milltown." Mr. Gilliland, in November, 
left it, with his other interests upon Lake Champlain, in charge 
of a kinsman, whom he dignified with the European title of 
" steward." He passed the winter himself in New- York, engaged 
in preparations for the removal of his family to his new estate. 
The cattle which had been turned out upon their arrival, were 
recovered with great difficulty in the autumn, and in a condition 
almost as wild as the native denizens of the forests. The first 
winter of th?se pioneers in the wilds of New-York, was passed 
without suffering or remarkable incident. Their time was occu- 
pied in attending the cattle, cutting and drawing saw-logs to the 
mill, and in the preparation of timber for the construction of 
their buildings. " In January, 1766, their hay was drawn upon 
the ice, from a beaver meadow, two miles south-west from Split 
Rock, (now Whallon's bay,) to Milltown. In the February of 
that year, a purpose was formed by a part of the colony to aban- 
don the settlement. Two men seized a team, and attempted, with 
their families, to escape into Canada. Through the vigilance of 
the steward, they were pursued by a guard from Crown Point, 
and brought back."! At the approach of spring, all the efforts 
of the settlers were enlisted in constructing their dwellings, 
and making other improvements upon their newly acquired 

* 0. F. Sheldon, and the GilUIaDd papers, 
t O. P. Sheldon, MSB. 



690 [Assembly 

farms. The first house upon these lots is supposed to have been 
erected for Robert McAuley, April 14th, 1766, on the north bank 
of Bachelor's creek. Others rapidly succeeded, until the whole 
space between the Eoquet and Split Rock was studded by the neat 
cabins of the settlers. During the spring, the provisions of the 
colony began to fail, but their wants were promptly supplied 
from the stores of the garrison at Crown Point. 

In June Mr. Gilliland returned with his family, and bearing 
supplies for another year. "His journey had been difficult and 
disastrous. In passing the rapids of the Hudson, near Still- 
water, one of the batteaux had capsized, precipitating part of big 
family into the rushing torrent. One of his daughters was lost. 
They resumed their voyage in fearful forebodings, sometimes draw- 
ing their boats on land, and again launching them upon the 
water. Worn with grief and toil, they arrived at length at Mill- 
town, and were soon settled in their wilderness home on the 
banks of the Boquet."* 

By a royal ordinance of October 7th, 1763, the parallel of 45 deg. 
north latitude had been established as the boundary between 
New-York and the province of Quebec. This ideal line, was, 
however, indefinite and controverted. In September, 1767, Gov. 
Moore, of New-York, and Carlton, of Quebec, caused the line to 
be fixed by careful astronomical observations. The same obser- 
vations established the latitude of Crown Point at 44 deg. 1 min. 
20. sec. 

On this occasion the munificent hospitalities of Milltown, were 
extended tp the royal commissioners, and their suite. f 

The return of the proprietor had infused a fresh spirit, and im- 
parted a new and vigorous impulse, to the little commonwealth. 
The colony continued to advance in improvement and prosperity. 
The saw mill was in successful operation, supplying all the de- 

* 0. F. Sheldon. 

jTlie Journal of Mr. Gilliland, under date of September, 10th, 1766, has this characteruitic 
entiy, " proceeded to the Congress for settling the latitude at Windmill point, having brought 
three shoats, some salmon and a fat calf, for the Governor, who thankfully received them, being 
aliEOst out of fresh provision. " 



No. 112] 691 

mand for lumber. A smithery had been erected. Various seed 
had been sown, to supply culinary vegetables. The goverment, 
political as well as moral, of the community, was in the exclusive 
guidance aud control of the proprietor. Its administration, seems 
to have been eminently patriarchical. The appointment of justice 
of the peace, which had been conferred on Mr. Gilliland, in his 
primitiye jurisdiction, endowed him with a plentitude of powers, 
that essentially embraced all the functions of counsellor, judge 
and chancellor. The ample limits of Albany county, at that 
period, embraced the whole region of northern New-York. 

A tract of two thousand acres, lying north of the Boquet, which 
had been patented to James Ross, was occupied in 1766, by two 
persons named Wilson and Goodrich . They established an agency, 
which they called Burton at Flat Rock Bay. The attempt was 
abandoned in February ensuing, and no further occupation, north 
of the Boquet in Willsboro, occurred prior to the year 1790, ex-^ 
cept one slight improvement, near the stream. Two other patents 
were granted at this time. One of which, issued to John Mon- 
tresor, was located north of Ross, and the other laid west of Field 
and Ross, to Richard Benson and others who were soldiers in the 
war with France. These locations still remain, and are designated 
by the names of the original patentees. The patents to Montresor 
and Benson, were occupied only by " Squatters," until 1819. In 
that year they were purchased by Seth Hunt of Keene, New-Hamp- 
shire. The validity of the original patents, and his title under them 
was soon after established, and his rights judicially enforced. 
Many individuals, who were innocent purchasers under the spuri- 
ous titles to these patents, were severe sufferers, in the issue of 
the controversies excited by the conflicting claims. 

During the winter 1767, Gilliland made an accurate and minnte 
survey upon the ice, of the lake shore, along the entire front of 
his locations, and named the prominent topographical features. 
In the same season the first horse introduced i^to the settlement, 
was brought out upon the ice, for Mr. Gilliland, from Canada. 

William McAuley, a relative and one of the prominent and 
most efficient coadjutors of Gilliland, occupied as a farm, the «ite 



692 [Assembly 

of the present beautiful village of Essex. James Gilliland, a 
brother of the proprietor, and in after years a distinguished officer 
in the American army, settled on a lot on the north bank of the 
Boquet. This stream, at the time of Gilliland's colonization of 
its shores, and for a subsequent period of several years, was a 
conspicuous landmark in the country. 

The site and the water power of the village of Port Henry, 
was granted in 1766, to Benjamin Porter, a miller. It is sup- 
posed a milling establishment was erected by him and aban- 
doned or destroyed before or during the Revolution. When 
tranquility was restored after that event, he returned to the 
scene, and in connection with a Robert Lewis, of Albany, rebuilt 
the mills. The ruins of these structures existed until a recent 
date.* 



CHAPTER Vn. 

TO THE REVOLUTION. 

M"o prominent event, distinguished the annals of these settle- 
ments for several years. Their agricultural and industrial im- 
provement continued to advance, the colony gradually increased 
in population, flourishing mills were erected, and other con- 
veniences and refinements of civilized life were introduced. 
Schools were early established. The position of the first school 
house is still pointed out. Occasional religious services were en- 
Joyed. I cannot ascertain the existence, in the early epoch of the 
settlement, of the stated administration of religious ordinances, 
although a clergyman named George Henry, accompanied Mr. 
Gilliland with the first body of emigrants. 

Albany county was divided in 1772, and the northern section, 
embracing both sides of Lake Champlain, was organized into a 
new county, which received the name of Charlotte. 

* Most of the facts and incidents in the colonization of this region, for which I am indebted 
to Mr. Sheldon, whose ancestors were among the earliest emigrants after the Revolution, were 
deriTcd from them, Mr. Gilliland, the eon of the proprietor, and other aged eettlciii. J&aaj 
<af ttiQBe facts I have oorroboxated myself, from equaUy relialle ao«roc8. 



No. 112.] 693 

An event occurred in 1775, which forcibly illustrates the ten- 
dency at that timcj of public sentiment to democratic institutions^ 
and exhibits its bias towards the doctrines of self-government! 
This settlement, it has been stated, was in the ideal limits of 
Charlotte county, but it possessed no tangible and practical poli- 
tical or social organization. It was too remote to be reached by 
the protecting arm of government, and toounimportant to receive 
any specific legislative action. The presence and ascendancy of 
some civil or political power were demanded, in the changed 
condition and increased population of the colony^ by their com- 
mon interests, and for their n^utual protection and safety. Under 
these circumstances they convened on the 17th of March. 1775,* 
by common approbation, an assembly of the colonists, and con- 
stituted themselves in effect, into a pure democracy. At this 
popular convention it was determined to institute for many prac- 
tical purposes, a local government. A system of police and so- 
cial regulations were matured, formally adopted, and ratified bj 
the individual signatures of the citizens. It was made imperative 
upon all, and each was pledged to abide by its provisions "by 
every tie of honor and honesty."! I^ contemplating this singu- 
lar and most interesting incident, the mind instinctively reverts 
to the cabin of the May Flower, where a similar scene was enact- 
ed, under the guidance of the same spirit and resting upon the 
same eternal principles. The oJSicers of the association thus 
constituted, comprised a moderator, two superintendents of roads 
and bridges, three appraisers of damages, and a town clerk. 
William Gilliland was elected the first moderator, and Jotham 
Gardner the town clerk. The first act of this primitive organiza- 
tion, was an ordinance, authorizing the construction of a bridge, 
by a tax to be levied and paid in labor, assessed on the basis of 
property. 

A project is believed to have been agitated at this period, 

• They were chiefly Irish, and St. Patrick's feetival was no donbt designedly adopted tot ibs 
occasioD. 

j This compact, whiob wag renewed tie next year, was made "binding for the space ot 
twelrc months " from the date, "and also to be equally binding npon snch other persons af 
may become inhabitants af this settlement during the said term." Although this organizatioa 
assumed no political authority, it clearly cherished the embryo of suoh a power aa inherest to 
the people. 



694 ^ [Assembly 

which in its success \roul(i have formed a prominent feature in 
the annals of this colony, and been an event of grave interest and 
importance in the political history of the country. A scheme, 
in which Gilliland and the elder Skeene, of a family which at- 
tained subsequent revolutionary notoriety, were the prominent 
agit-ators, was discussed and essentially matured, which contem- 
plated the organization of a new province. Its imagined limits 
were to extend from the St. Lawrence to the Connecticut, 
resting at the north on the Canada boundary. In this project 
Skeeue was to receive the appointment of governor of the con- 
templated province, and Crown Point was to be constituted the 
oapital. 

I have yielded my own convictions of the reality of this scheme, 
not alone upon the traditions on the subject, and the -assurances 
of those who professs to have seen and possessed documents 
which elucidated the whole subject, but upon other forcible con- 
siderations.* 

The aspect at that epoch of the controversy, relative to the 
New-Hampshire grants, rendered such an occurrence exceedingly 
probable. Cotemporary annals appear to recognize the exist- 
ence of some project of an analogous character and purpose. | 
The diplomatic expedient of Allen, by which he asserted a claim 
to all Northern New-York, may have been suggested by this idea. 
Skeene, it is known, at this period, visited England on some im- 
portant political mission, and was on his return to America on 
the verge of the Revolution, bearing, as he alleged, the appoint- 
ment of " Governor of Crown Point and Ticonderoga.j In this 
designation of the limits and title of his government, is it not pro- 
bable that he merely referred to these fortresses as prominent 
points embraced within his jurisdiction ? Crown Point, it is as- 

* Mr. Gilliland, the youcger, wlio, at the commencement of the Revolation, was a schoolboy 
of fourteen, and died in Plattsburgh in the year 1847, assured Mr. Sheldon that this project 
was a fi-ccjuent and familiar theme of conversation by his father. That he had often himself 
read the correspondence between his father and Skeene, on the subject, and that he had the 
letter of Skeene still in his possession. Mr. G., who was a gentleman of great intelligence, 
engaged to find and submit them to Mr. Sheldon, bnt he died before the time fixed for the pm-- 
poae arrived. With the permission and aid of the Messrs. Gilliland, his sons, who reside at 
Baimna river, on a part of the original estate, I have carefully examined the family papers, 
but can diacorer no trace of this document. * 

t William's Hist. Vermont. Haskin's do. J Skeene's letter to Hawley, March 16, 1775. 



No. 112.] 695 

serted, was the designed capital of the projected province. 
This idea strengthens at once the opinion I have attempted to en- 
force, of the prominence and importance of Crown Point at that 
period, and attaches form and coherence to the existence of this 
scheme. Skeene was then possessed of a large landed estate, not 
only at Skeenesboro, but elsewhere in the environs of Lake Cham- 
plain. He held a tract in Essex county, still designated " Skeene's 
patent." 

The accomplishment of this design might have involved the 
most momentous and sinister political results, at that peculiar 
epoch, when the vehement contest between New- York and Ver- 
mont had acquired its deepest rancour and excitement. It is not 
probable, had that event occurred, whatever may have been the 
political consequences, that Northern New- York would now exhi- 
bit a vast expanse of uncultivated and primeval wilderness. 

An occurrence of deep import, suddenly dissolved all these 
visions of political plans and speculations, and for years arrested 
the progress of this miniature republic, and dispersed widely its 
population. A blow was struck, within the present limits of Es- 
sex county, which vibrated not only through the wide colonies, 
but was felt within the palace walls of St. James. 



CHAPTER Vni. 

FROM THE eAPTURE OF TICONDEROGA TO BURGOYNE's EXPEDITION. 

Haldibrand, the commander of Crown Point and Ticonderoga, 
had announced to the government, in 1773, that the fort at Crown 
Point was " entirely destroyed," and that at Ticonderoga in a 
" ruinous condition," and that both could " not cover fifty men 
in winter." The appeal to arms, which in April, '75, had sound- 
ed from the plains of Lexington, seems simultaneously to have 
suggested to various patriotic individuals and associations in the 
colonies, the idea of capturing these important fortresses, in their 
dilapidated and exposed condition. Members of the provincial 
legislature of Connecticut, with its secret connivance, but with no 
public recognition by that body, raised a fund to effect this ob- 
ject, and appointed a private committee to proceed to the scene, 



696 [AssE]vmi.T 

and if practicable to execute the plan. In the county of Berk- 
shire a small force was collected, and at Eennington the daring 
spirit and powerful influence of Ethan Allen were promptly en- 
listed in the enterprise. On the 7th of May, 1775, an intrepid 
band of two hundred and seventy volunteers, devoted to this 
daring purpose, and all of which, except forty, were from the 
Green mountains, had assembled in Castleton. 

At this moment Arnold, invested with plenary powers from the 
Massachusetts Committee of Safety, to accomplish the same object, 
appeared upon the stage and claimed precedence in the command of 
the expedition. The contest which ensued and which threatened a 
fatal result to the whole enterprise, was terminated by the troops 
refusing to march, except under the guidance of Allen, their tried 
and cherished leader. Arnold, constrained to acquiesce in'the deci- 
sion, joined the force as an aid to the commander. - Noah Phelps, 
a name that national gratitude should commemorate, one of the 
committee from Connecticut, assuming the garb and deportment 
of a settler, boldly entered the fort at Ticonderoga, and there ex- 
hibiting extreme ignorance and simplicity, and with the pretence 
of seeking a barber, wandered unsuspected about the works, and 
thus obtained an ample knowledge of the conditiorl and forces of 
the fortress. 

The gafi'rison was slumbering in profound security. To procure 
the means of transporting the troops, Herri ck had been sent to 
Skeenesboro, and Baker was to join them from Otter creek, but 
when the forces, in the night of the 9th, reached Slioreham, oppo- 
site to Ticonderoga, neither had returned with the necessary boats. 
Seizing those which could be reached, Allen boldly decided to 
proceed. The landing was effected at a little cove, a mile north 
of the fort. As the dawn of morning appeared, only eighty 
three men had reached the western shore, yet Allen knowing 
that delay would imperil the issue, determined at once to advance 
to the assault. The story of the gallant deed, to which the history 
of the world scarcely presents a parallel, need not here be repeated. 
The fortress which had cost so much blood and treasure, was won 
by the little band, in a bloodless triumph " in the name of Je- 
hovah and the Continental Congress." Warner was despatched 



No. 112.J 697 

to seize Crown Point, which was occnpied by a mere sergeant'^ 
guard. That fort and garrison, the ensuing day were captured 
witliout resistance. The trophies' of this conquest, were two hun- 
dred pieces of cannon, mortars and howitzers, and a large amount of 
military stores. Another most desirable acquisition to the patriot 
cause, was a ware house filled with materials for boat building.* 
These munitions were of great value and importance in the future 
operations of the colonies, but such results were far transcended by 
the moral influence and political consequences of this measure. 
Remember Baker had been summoned from Otter creek to partici- 
pate in this expedition, and hastening to the aid of his old asso- 
ciate happily intercepted boats despatched from Crown Point to 
announce at St. Johns, the capture of Ticonderoga. 

Arnold renewed his pretensions to the supreme command, after 
the reduction of the forts, in the arrogant and dictatorial spirit, 
that at every period of his career, sullied his character and mar- 
red his preferment. Although rejected by the troops, Allen in 
deference to the great intrepidity which had been exhibited by 
Arnold, partially acceded to these claims. The Connecticut com- 
mittee however, justly assuming tliat the government of Massachu- 
setts had no relation to this movement, established Allen in the 
command, with unlimited powers. A course which Massachusetts 
ultimately approved. 

Elated with the eminent success of their bold project, it was 
decided to attempt the capture of an armed sloop, lying at St. 
Johns. A small schooner commanded by Arnold, accompanied 
by Allen in a batteau, proceeded to St. Johns upon this errand, 
and by successfully accomplishing it, secured to the Provincials 
the ascendancy on the lake. 

Although Congress, on the intelligence of these extraordinary 
events, advised " the transportation of the various articles to a 
place of security," they required an inventory of them to be made, 
in the language of their resolution, " in order that they may be 
safely returned, when the restoration of harmony between Great 
Britain and the colonies, so ardently desired by the latter, shall 

•Tbanpeon'B Hietory of Vera»v»4. 



698 [Assembly 

render it prudent and consistent with the overruling laws of self- 
preservation." Thus shrinking from the responsibility of the 
glorious deed. Congress refused to ratify the first deliberate and 
predetermined assault upon British authority. 

History, in forming its judgment of the character and the 
services of the men who achieved these perilous and daring ex- 
ploits, should regard the fact, that tliey acted under the behests 
of no legitimate and recognized government, but from the mere 
>impulses of individual enterprise and patriotism ; that their acts 
constituted outlawry, and that a failure would have entailed up- 
on them the retributions visited upon treason and rebellion. By 
a sin.o-ular coincidence, the Congress that determined to raise an 
army to assert the civil immunities of the colonies, assembled on 
the very day that beamed upon the capture of these fortresses. 
The reduction of Ticonderoga and Crown Point, opened to the 
<5olonies the gates of Canada. 

The prescience of Allen's mind, and his practical sagacity, 
comprehended at a glance, the magnitude of the consequences 
which might result from the measure, and which he saw within 
the grasp of Congress. In urging with the warmest importunity 
and with irresistible reasoning, an immediate attack on Canada, 
he foreshadowed a policy, which then rejected, was afterwards 
adopted, when the auspicious moment had passed. In a commun- 
ication to Congress in June 7th, he utters this vigorous and em- 
phatic language " I would lay my life on it, that with fifteen hun- 
dred men I would take Montreal." 

Ethan Allen stands out in bold prominence and originality 
among the extraordinary men, whose high attributes of mind and 
character were evolved from the crucible of the times. His own 
age, under the prejudices of controversy, was too prone to regard 
him as a rude and ferocious adventurer, inflamed by the mere 
animal impulse of courage, but without the intellectual qualities 
to guide and elevate their purposes. 

The intellect that could attain and preserve a mastery over the 
minds and hearts of such a race as the " men of the Green Moun- 
tains," and wield that " fierce democracy " to his purposes, had 
no ordinary powers. 



No. 112.J 699 

At Castleton, when Arnold asserted the command, every man 
shouldered his musket, and prepared to return to his home ; but 
with Allen, their leader, they knew no doubt ; they had no fear. 
It was no common mind that enabled him, with kindred spirits, 
oa one hand, to paralyse the power of New- York, and on the 
other, by his keen diplomacy to arrest the progress of the British 
arms. History and posterity are beginning to appreciate Allen, 
and to award the guerdon long and unjustly withheld. Why 
should not the magnanimity and patriotism of New-York erect a 
monument on the cliffs of Ticonderoga, that shall redeem his 
aame, and be a perpetual memorial of his great exploit. 

Arnold; with indefatigable efforts and zeal, had equipped a 
flotilla, which he commanded, and that secured the supremacy 
of the lake ; but perpetual feuds, which beset his path, led to his 
resignation and withdrawal from his position. No other event in 
this region distinguished that memorable year, except the organi- 
zation of the forces for the invasion of Canada. 

Congress, too late, adopted the plan suggested by Allen and 
Arnold, of the invasion of Canada. An army of two thousand 
men was assembled at Crown Point and Ticonderoga, under the 
successive command of Schuyler and Montgomery, and supplied 
with every appliance within the limited capacity of the govern- 
ment. It embarked at these posts on the 21st of August, 1775, 
on its impracticable and disastrous campaign. 

General history amply portrays the fate of this gallant little 
army, its preliminary victories, its final repulse, and calamitous 
retreat. Congress, meanwhile, had pressed from the Champlain 
fortresses to the utmost extent of their meaus, reinforcements 
and supplies to its aid ; but the severities of a northern winter, 
and the ravages of a loathsome disease, continued to pursue and 
waste it, until assailed by a superior enemy, the American army 
was compelled to abandon Canada. 

Crown Point was evacuated, the buildings burnt, and the mate- 
rial not capable of removal destroyed ; and the entire American 
forces, with their munitions, were congregated around Ticon- 
deroga. 



700 [ASSEMB-LV 

A large and perfectly equipped British army had concentrated 
at St. Johns, and menaced the colonies with a formidable inva- 
sion. Its advance depended upon the naval preponderance 
on the lake. To secure that result, each party exerted the 
most animated activity. Six vessels of a large class, which 
had been built in England, were taken apart, transported to 
St. Johns, and there, in the summer of 1776, reconstructed.. 
Boats of various dimensions were built at that place with the 
utmost celerity, but with all these vigorous efibrts of the British 
commander, the fleet consisting ot thirty-one vessels, ranging in 
their armament from one to eighteen guns, was not prepared to 
advance into the lake until the ensuing 1st of October. 

This formidable fleet was navigated by seven hundred veteran 
seamen, and armed in addition by an eflicient corps of artillery. 

Congress had been equally alert and energetic, but with meaniB 
totally inadequate to the magnitude of the issue. The timber 
required for the construction of a fleet was yet standing in the 
forest, and was to be cut, prepared, and conveyed by human labor 
to the shipyards at Ticonderoga and Crown Point. The material 
for its equipment must be transported a long distance over roads^ 
nearly impracticable. The ship carpenters, who must construct 
the vessels, are occupied by urgent duties in the yards upon the 
sea coast. 

Amid all these adverse circumstances, the indomitable energies 
of Arnold formed and equipped a squadron of fifteen vessels, 
bearing an aggregate battery of fifty-five guns, and armed by three 
hundred and fifty gallant and determined men, who had, how- 
ever, little or no experience in naval affairs. The great exigency 
invoked courage and sacrifices; and notwithstanding this vast dis- 
parity of strength, Arnold fearlessly threw himself across the 
path of the advancing enemy. The fleets met in the narrow- 
strait between Valcour Island and the western shore, just beyond 
the northern limits of Essex county. For four hours the battle 
raged with unabated and terrific violence. Arnold leveling him- 
self almost every gun, in his own vessel, conducted the battle 
with the highest skill and heroism. Night separated the com- 
batants. 



Jfo. 112.] 701 

The American fleet, shattered and disabled, passing around the 
northern point of the Island, attempted to escape to Crown Point, 
enveloped in the fog of a dark and cloudy night. The earliest 
dawn, revealed their retreat to the vigilant enemy, and an instant 
pursuit ensued. 

In the obscurity of the hour, a solitary rock, standing in the 
midst of the lake, and shrouded in the autumnal mist, was mista- 
ken by the British, for a vessel of the American fleet, and a cannon- 
ade was directed against it. The mariner of the lake, still calls 
that rocky islet, " Carlton's prize." 

Arnold was overtaken near Otter creek, by the British fleet, 
and in covering the retreat of the remainder of his squadron, 
maintained with his single galley and live gondolas for another 
four hours, a bloody and glorious combat. Determined to pre- 
serve his vessels from becoming trophies to the enemy, he ran the 
lix ashore and blew them up. Their blackened fragments, for 
many years remained upon the beach at Panton, memorials of his 
gallantry and patriotism,longafter other deeds had stamped infa- 
my upon his name. One galley only was taken, while the rest 
of the fleet retreated to Ticonderoga. 

Gen. Carlton advanced no farther than Crown Point, which he 
again occupied, and after spending a month in observing tlie move- 
ments of the American army, and threatening an attack at Ticon- 
deroga, returned to Canada with his troops. 



CHAPTER IX. 

FaOM THE YEAR 1776 TO 1784. 

The colony upon the Boquet, had not remained amid these 
eventful scenes, undisturbed by the tempest, wliich had swept 
through the lake. Mr. Gilliland had espoused the cause of the 
colonies with ardor and enthusiasm, and was early marked as an 
object of ministerial vengeance.* In concert with men of conge- 
nial sentiments, a military organization, embracing both shores 
of Champlain, had been formed immediately after the capture of 

* See hie memorial to CoDgrefis in the AppendLc 



702 [Assembly 

Ticonderoga. He efficiently aided in the transportation of the 
American army in the invasion of Canada, and at its retreat from 
that calamitous campaign, his dwellings and garners were throwa 
open to relieve their necessities. His patriotic and generous mm- 
niflcence seems to have had no limit, but the ability to perform. 
Seventy head of beef cattle, and fifteen hundred^ salted salmon, 
were, in one season, among the items of his liberal and free con- 
tribution. 

At the retreat of the American army, the inhabitants of this 
settlement, who had been prompt and decisive in avowing a hos- 
tility to England, and conspicuous for their progress and pros- 
perity, were apprehensive of attacks from the Indians, and hasti- 
ly abandoned their farms and dwellings, endeared to them by tea 
years of toil and privation, most of them never to return. 

Gilliland, with his family, withdrew to the vicinity of Crown 
Point, but returned, with part of his tenants, to secure their 
harvests, and to remove and secrete their property. Ponderous 
articles were buried or sunk in the lake. Many families, home- 
less and destitute, embracing Carlton's offers of amnesty, joined 
the British forces, and in a few cases, adopted the interests of 
England. Much valuable property, thus secreted, was, by the 
agency of these loyalists, exposed to the British officials, and 
seized and confiscated. 

On the 21st of June,, 1777, Burgoyne landed with his brilliant 
army on the banks of the Boquet. Ten days were occupied in a re- 
connoisance of Ticonderoga, in reorganizing his forces, in drilling 
his boatmen, in the estuary of that river, in the evolutions inci- 
dent to their duties, and in holding his celebrated congress with 
the Indian tribes. 

, The selection of this point, as the scene of so important aa 
event, indicates its prominence. The summons of the British 
general had been responded to by the savage warriors^ in far 
greater numbers than he had expected or desired. A redoubt, 
standing on an eminence above the river, and near the falls, was 
signalized by this picturesque and impressive spectacle. The 
operations of agriculture have now obliterated all vestiges of this 
work, although, until recently, its lines could be distinctly traced. 



No. 112.J 703 

These hordes ^ere addressed by Burgoyne, in a speech profess- 
ing to restrain their ferocity, but calculated in its influence to in- 
flame their savage passions. A war chief of the Iroquois, replied 
with equal vehemence, pledging the tribes to an eternal warfare, 
against the foes of England. A feast was held, the war-dance 
celebrated, and these merciless savages let loose upon the colonies. 

Burgoyne, soon after, concentrated his forces at Crown Point, 
and there issued a turgid and declamatory proclamation addressed 
to the American people, which was equally unsuccessful in exci- 
sing their fears or winning their confidence. 

The interval occupied by these delays, had been vigorously em- 
ployed by Gen. St. Clair in improving the strength of the origi- 
nal fort at Ticonderoga5and in erecting additional works. A lofty 
eminence, named Mt. Independence, upon the eastern side of the 
lake, he fortified, by a strong and extensive redoubt. Congress, 
from inability or remissness, had failed to supply either muni- 
tions, or a garrison competent to the adequate occupation of the 
extended works. » 

Compelled by this fact to the course or swayed by a false se- 
curity, St. Clair had neglected to occupy two other commanding 
and important positions. One of these, called by him Mt. Hope, 
to commemorate the high expectations formed by its capture, 
was seized on his advance by Gen. Frazer. The other, Mt. Defi- 
ance, is situated on the south side of the outlet of Lake George. 
Under the direction of Gen. Philips, the British had surmounted 
the rugged slope of this eminence, in the night preceding the 5th 
of July. With dismay and astonishment the Americans beheld 
at the early dawn, its crest occupied by a battery* bristling with 
ordinance and gleaming with the scarlet of the British uniform. 

Neither Ticonderoga nor Mt. Independence was longer tenable, 
and a council of war decided without hesitation, to abandon both 
works. These posts were connected by a floating bridge one 
thousand feet in length. The same night, a division of the 
American troops were defiling in silence and order over this 
bridge, unsuspected by the enemy, when suddenly the glare of a 
burning house upon Mt. Independence shed a brilliant illumina- 
tion over the scene and revealed their movements and position. 

' The ruins of this baUery are etiil Tcrj distintl. 



704 [Assembly 

The royal army was at once aroused, and at an early hour the 
British flag was again waving over the ramparts of Fort Carillon. 

The Americans retreated in general confusion and disorder, to 
Hubberton, and there recovering their discipline and assuming 
a favorable position, awaited the attack of Gen. Frazer, by whom 
they had been closely pursued. Here was fought one of the 
most bloody, ably contested and disastrous battles of the Revolu- 
tion. It has not acquired that prominence in American history, 
or that consideration from the country due to the valor and sacri- 
fices by which it was signalized. Had the issue been favorable 
to the American arms, as was probable at one period, its results 
would liave anticipated the consequences and the glory of Ben- 
nington. 

St. Clair, embarking the main division of the garrison with the 
stores, munitions and provisions which it was practicable to re- 
move, in batteaux protected by the galleys, retreated towards 
Skeenesboro. 

The booms and bridges which had been constructed with the 
labor of many months, were at once burst asunder, and the British 
squadron bearing several regiments of troops, was soon in rapid 
pursuit of the retreating flotilla. Two of the galleys were taken 
by the enemy, the rest were destroyed by the Americans. 

Burgoyne acquired by the capture of Ticonderoga a vast amount 
of stores, ordinance and other military supplies. 

I leaye to public history the recital of the subsequent progress 
and fate of Burgoyne. 

A bold and spirited scheme was conceived in the following 
September by Gen. Lincoln, then in the military command of 
Vermont, to assail the base of Burgoyne's operations and to sur- 
prise Ticonderoga. The plan, which was pursued with great 
boldness and zeal, had entire success, except in the capture-of 
the fortress itself. Mt. Hope and Mt. Defiance* were recovered, 

* Capt. Ebeneser Allen, with forty " Green Mountain boys," surprised and captured the 
Tforkfl on Mt. Defiance, which contained a garrison of two hundred men and fortified with 
artillery. He enbsoquently, with a small force, by a ruse, made prisonerB of the rear gua.rd 
of the retreating ganison of Tiecnderoga, wich a large quantity of stores and muiutions. This 
feat oceurred near the present viliago of Essex. — Butler^s AddriSS. 



No. 112.] 705 

a large number of American prisoners released, several hundred 
of the enemy captured, with an armed vessel and more than two 
hundred batteaux. 

A/ter the surrender of*the British army at Saratoga, the garri- 
sons-uiioii Lake Chami^lain evacuated and dismantled the various 
posts and witlidrew their entire forces into Canada. 

Bands of tories, more ruthless than their savage allies, fleeing 
from the disorganized army of Burgoyne, with passions inflamed 
and vindictive, left a track of desolation in their retreat. Tradi- 
tion avers that not a dwelling in th wi ole Gilliland settlement, 
from Splitrock to theBoquet, escaped the torch. 

No further belligerent movements of intei*est occurred during 
the war upon the shores of Lake C hamplain. 

Gen. Haldimand advanced in 1780 to Ticonderoga, and again 
occupied the fort, rather apparently in a diplomatic, than a mili- 
tary attitude. * 

The armistice established by him and the Vermont authorities, , 
which extended to the Hudson river, was probably regarded as 
embracing the Champlain valley. 

Ticonderoga, in this interval, was the scene of those undefined 
negotiations between Vermont and England, the character and pur- 
poses of which have excited so much discussion, and which are 
still enveloped in such profound obscurity. 

Whether the intentions of Vermont were disloyal to the au 
thority of Congress, or dictated by a consummate diplomatic 
sagacity, the direct eflect of this armistice Avas most auspicious to 
the interests of the country. It threw an effectual shield over 
the whole northern frontier, and for a long period arrested the 
action of ten thousand British troops. 

The fields which had been cleared and cultivated on. the Bo- 

quet with so much labor, had been abandoned from '76 to '84, 

and when peace restored tranquility and security, and the ;^ettlers 

returned, they found that nature had almost re-established her 

lAg. Tr. '53,] W 



706 [ASSKMBLT 

• empire over the territory. Brambles and weeds infested the hmd^ 
the roads had b:-'Come impassable, the fences and bridges were 
prostrated and decayed. Much of the former toils of the colony 
were to be renewed. 

The personal history of Mr. Gilliland, so intimately interwoveni 
with the settlement and progress of the county, demands atten- 
tion. 

lu common with an innumerable class of patriots, who had 
freely lavi>liVd their fortunes upon the country in the hoiir of 
trial and effort, the peace of '83 found Mr. Gilliland deeply em- 
l>arrassed in his pecuniary affairs. 

The acquisition of an estate of 30,000 acres upon the bojders 
of Champlain, with the disbursements incident to its improve- 
ment, had involved the expenditure of a large amount of- his 
means. 

He had lived in great comparative affluence and splendor, dis- 
pensing munificent charities and a generous hospitality. Diiven 
from his home by a ruthless invader, his estates were wasted^ 
and for several years abandoned and unproductive.* 

In the progress of tlie war he had been reduced almost to indi- 
gence and destitution. Arnold in his progress through the lake, 
with characteristic rapacity and violence, had ravaged the pro- 
perty of Mr. Gilliland. He appealed to Congiess for remunera- 
tion of his advances, and indemnity for his various losses, but the 
exhausted treasury of the country could afford no relief. 

■Returning to his wide possessions, he saw them wasted and de- 
solate. Abandoning his long cherished purpose of erecting his 
, property into a manorial estate, he decided to sell his lands in 
fee. The first purcha>~ers were Joseph Slieldon and Abraham 
Aiken, of Dutchess county, who went into the occupatiouof their 
lots in March, 1784, and were the pioneer settlers under the new 
•irangementj in the. limits of the present town of Willsboro. 

During that spring fourteen other families purchased and occu- 
pied farms, and several other individuals bought lots, and com- 
menced Im rovements. 

*oee Mexoiial in Appendix. 



Ko. 112.] 707 

•Tlie lumber required for their buildings was procured at Ver- 
fenufS. The s;iw mills at tlie Boquet, destroyed in the course of 
the war, had not, at that time, been rebuilt. 

Meanwhile, other embarrassments gathered around to daiken 
*nd accelerate the decaying forttines of Mr. Gilliland. In sev- 
eral of the claims purchased by him in good faith, and for valu- 
able considerations, and regularly located, he had filed the 
requi>ite applications in the appropriate colonial offices. The 
confusion incident to the convulsed period which ensued, impeded, 
and finally prevented the consummation of these grants by 
patents. 

An act was passed by the Legislature of New- York, in effect 
abrogating all such grants, in which the royal functionaries had not 
formally issued the patent. Having studiously performed all the 
preliminaries exacted by the provincial statutes, Mr. Gilliland 
had reposed in undoubting reliance on the validity of his titles. 

Others appropriating, as he alleged, a transcript of the boun- 
.daries of the premises, contained in his documents, had applied 
to the new government, and obtained patents of the tei ritory 
embraced in his previous locations. Litigation ensued. The 
antagonist titles \Aere sustained. Costs and expenses followed, 
which absorbed the remnant of his property, and led to his im- 
prisonment upon the goal limits of New-York. 

Ht^ riturned at length to his former residence, despondent, and 
cherishing a disgust at the heartlessness and ingratitude of many, 
whom, in brighter days, he had fostered and protected ; and [)ar- 
tially Hlienated in mind, he wandered into the wilderness and 
ditd. Thus the pioneer of E>sex county, the former possessor of 
bai-onial domains, ptri?hed from hunger and exposure — 

** Without a friend to close his eyes." 

The large estates of Mr. Gilliland passed into other hands. 
His descendants ri-main in Essex and Clinton counties, ^mong the 
most prominent and respected of iheir citizens. "Wil]sh(ro'* 
conjuumorates the i.ame of William Gilliland. " Elizabelhtown" 
was called after his wife. 



708 [Assembly 

CHAPTER X. 

TO THE WAR OF 1812. 

A strong current of emigration from New-England rapidly dif- 
fused a hardy and valuable population along the western shore 
of Lake Champlain, and gradually penetrated theJ interior. Ticon- 
deroga and Crown Point were settled by American emigrants at 
the close of the revolution. Genrge and Alexander Treujble 
were among the earliest and most prominent of those settlers. 
Two lots upon Whallon's bay were occupied the same }ear by 
Amos and David Stafford. 

The name of Charlotte county was in 1784 changed to Wash- 
ington, and the eventual arrangement of the Vermont controversy 
limited its territory in the Champlain valley to the western side 
of the lake. 

On the division of Washington county in 1788, a new county 
was organised, embracing the territory which now constitutes the 
counties of Essex, Clinton, and the eastern section of Franklin. 

The new county was called Clinton, and was divided into the 
four towns, Champlain, Plattsburgh, Crown Point and Wills- 
boro, which were incorporated at the same time with the organi- 
zation of the county. 

The town of Crown Point, in its original limits, comprised the 
present town of that name, Ticonderoga, Moriah, Westport, Eliz- 
abethtown, Schroon, Minerva, Newcomb, North Hudson and a 
part of Keene. Willsboro', embraced the residue of the present 
county of Essex, and three towns now included in Clinton. Each 
of the towns of Crown Point and Willsboro, at the period of its 
organization, spread over a territory of about nine hundred square 
-miles. 

"At the first town meeting of Willsboro', MelchiorHoffnagle was 
elected supervisor, and Daniel Sheldon town clerk. Tl e first 
town meeting of Crown Point was held in December, 1788. At 
this epoch, the ordinary civil functions of incorporated towns were 
little regarded or enforced. A plan was adopted by which the 



No. 112.1 709 

town OiTicers were apportioned to the various prominent settle- 
ments. Each locality, designated, in a primary meeting, the in- 
dividuals who should receive the several appointments appropria- 
ted to them. A delegate bore the respective nominations to the 
general town meeting, in which they were almost uniformly con- 
firmed. At the general elections, the polls were held on the two 
first days, one half a day in a place, and on the third at some 
central or populous point. These expedients facilitated and se- 
cured as far as practicable, the exercise of their civil rights to 
the settlers. 

A claim instituted by the Caughnawaga and St. Regis Indiana 
in '92, to a vast tract of land, embracing nearly the entire terri- 
tory between the St. Lawrence and Mohawk rivers, was urged 
for many years with great pertinacity and earnestness. It was 
resisted on various grounds, without violating any principle of 
public justice and private rights; investigation amply established 
the facts, that these tribes had no original title to the district, but 
that it was held exclusively by the Iroquois, who had alienated 
it to the whites by sales to individuals and by cessions through 
public treaties. 

Charles Piatt was appointed the first judge of the newly orga- 
nized county, and William McAuley, of Willsboro, one of the side 
judges. Plattsburgh was made the shire-town of the county. 

At this period no road had been constructed from Willsboro, 
north of the Boquet river. The traveller was guided solely by 
blazed trees over the Willsboro mountain. The route thus indi- 
cated, extended through the' forest to the Au Sable river, which 
was crossed at the " Highbridge," about three miles below the site 
of Keeseville. A wood road had been opened from that point to 
Plattsburgh. A similar track, it is probable, was the only avenue 
of intercourse between Crovt^n Point and Splitrock. 

The settlement at Ticondcroga was about seventy miles distant 
from Plattsburgh ; at which place the inhabitants were compelled 
o appear, to assert their rights as litigants, or to discharge their 
duties as jurors and witnesses. 



710 [Assembly 

Jay was incorporated as a town in Janu ■' , and Elizabethtowo 
in February, 1801. Chesterfield w&s organized in 1802, and Es- 
sex and Lewis, April 4tlij 1805. 

In I79O3 Piatt Rogers established a ferr from Basin Harbor, 
and constructed a road from the landing 'o a point near Spliirock, 
where it connected with thd road made in an early period of 
the settlement. He erected, in the same season, a bridge over 
the Boquet, at Willsboro falls, and constructed a road from that 
place to Peru, in Clinton county. These services were remune- 
rated by the State, throug^i an appropriation to Kogers and hit 
associates of a large tract from the public ands. The venerablo' 
Judge Hatch, who still survives, was one of the earliest settler* 
in ihe interior of the county. He moved, in 1792, into that part 
of the town of Essex now known as Brookfield, which was sur- 
veyed and sold in 1788. This district, he says, " was at that time 
chiefly in a state of nature." In T 04, he " removed to tlie vil- 
lage of Westport^ then called 'North West Bay.' The dis- 
tance was eight miles, and the removal of his family occupied tw» 
days and the labor of four men to open a passage f^r a wag'n. 
At Westport a small' improvement had previously been com- 
menced, and one frame houscj three log houses, a saw mill, and 
one barn, had been erected. No road extended south, beyond th« 
limits of that town. A track had been opened to Pleasant Val- 
ley, where an infant settlement had just been formed. A road 
which wasalmostimpas^ablc extended to the new eoloniesiu Lewi;?, 
Jay and Keeue."* The alarm and excitement which agitated the 
wh 'le country at the defeat of St. Clair, in this year, and the ap- 
prehension of a general combination of the Indian tribes of the 
west with the Six Nations, extended to these humble hamlets. 

A block h.ouse was erected fl^r the protection of the inhabitants, 
near the village of Essex. In the subsequent organization of Es- 
sex county, that edifice was converted into a court house and jail. 
The enterprise of the pioneer of New-England had penetrated 
the g'>rges of the mountains, and his keen eye had fastened upon 
rich a:id alluring districts fiar in the foie^t paths I have men- 
tioned. The table lands of Jay, the fertile valleys of Schrnon, 

* Letter Hon. Cbnrles Hatch. 



No. 112.] 711 

and tlie ravines and slopes in Lewis, Elizabe'.hlowu and Ketne, 
were all occupied previous to 1798. 

An exploring party from the east had reached an eminence ia 
Eliz il)cthto\vn5 ihat looks down U[iou the beautiful vale now oo- 
cupied by the county seat of Essex counfy, embosomed among a 
lofty group of mountains, and adorned by the branches of th# 
Boqiiet, which glide through its verdant i)lains, and gazing la 
deliglit upon the scene, they pronounced it " Pleasant Valley.'' 
It still preserves, by common sentiment, the name and the sam« 
pre-eminence. 

' Schroon was settled about the year '97, by Samuel Soribner, 
Thomas Leland, Moses Patee, Benjamin Banker and Simeon Raw- 
son, who were all men of New England. Thomas Hinckley, 
snade the first purchase in the town of Lewi-J, in 1796. The 
most important measure designed to open and develope the inte- 
rior sections of the county, was the enactment of laws which au- 
thorized the construction, by Piatt Rogers, and others, of publw 
roads. I have already leferred to one. Another was authorized 
to be constructed fro.m Sandy Hill to the Canada line, and pass- 
ing along the Schroon valley, through Elizahethtown and Leww^ 
;an«l crossed the An Sable river at a fording jlace nearKeeseville. 
This h'ghway is still designated as " the old State road.'' Nunwe- 
rous approp.riations^ at more recent periods, have been made by 
the State, for the construction of public roads, whiph traverse 
the county in various directions. 

One of these, opened many years since, extending from West- 
port ^) Hopkinton, traversing Elizabeihtown, the gorges of t&e 
Keene mountains, and the jdains of North Eiba, penetrated whsf 
was then denominated, the " fifty miles woods." 

A road, constructed under acts of 18-11 and '44, from LaJbe 
€hanipla ti to Car h;irge, in Jefferson county, is now in progress, 
and is buil,t by an application of specific road taxes. It passes 
through the towns of Crown P<»int, Schroon and Newcomb, pene- 
trating the heart of the Adirondacs. These avenues are of thm 
dee{)est importance in promoting the progress and impioveme^ 
of the county, Rogers and his associates, received an enormoiw 



712 [Assembly 

grant of unappropriated lands, covering au area of about 73,000 
acres. It costs, in the construction of these roads, according to 
the estimates preserved by tradition, ". one penny and two farthings 
per acre." 

Esses county was organized in 1799, in the division of Clinton 
county, and is now bounded on the north by Clinton and Fianklin 
counties, on the west by Franklin and Hamilton, on the south by 
Washington and Warren, and on the east by Lake Champlain. 
The area of this county embraces 1,779 square miles, or 1,138,500 
acres. It is the second county in territorial extent in the State^ 
being only exceeded by St. Lawrence. 

New towns, by repeated divisions, have been occasionally form- 
ed, as circumstances and tlie convenience of the population re- 
quired. The county now comprises seventeen incorporated town- 
ships, several of which comprehend more territory than some of 
the counties in the State. Nearly all of them are too extended for 
the convenient exercise of their civil and political functions. 
Tlie village of Essex was originally constituted the county shire^ 
and the old block-house, mentioned before, was appropriated for 
the public use, and was occupied for these purposes, until the re- 
moval of the county seat to Pleasant Valley. By the census of 
1800, the combined population of Clinton and I]ssex counties, was 
8,57-, including 58 slaves. The next decade exhibits a very 
decisive increase. Essex alone contained, by the census of 1810, 
9,525 population, and Clinton 8,002. The following tabular ex- 
hibit, will present the progress of the county in population. 



No. 112.] 



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714 [ASSEJVIBLY 

Es-es county voted witlj Clinton, until after the censns of ISOO. 
Thomas Stower was the first representative of Essex, ^vhen voting 
independent of Clinton. The history of the industrial }>ursuits 
of tlie county, early in the jiresent century, attained a predomi- 
nant interest over iis civil and political annals. That is reserved 
for a distinct department of this report. 



CHAPTER XI. 

SETTLEMENT. 

The war of 181.2, although it closed many of the ordinary 
channels of business in this county, accelerated its progress by 
the new demands created fur all the products of industry 
and agiicultuie, and by the general and abundant diffusion of 
money it produced. 

The enemy appeared on several occasions in the waters of Es- 
sex coiinty, and in the summf^r of 1313, entered the Boquet with 
two gallies and two barges. Landing at different points, and com- 
mittiiig many wanton ravages on private property, they retired 
after a slight skirmish with a body of militia near the former en- 
trenchments of Burguyne. > ' 

Tiie citizens of the county exhibited promptitude and. zeal ia 
responding to the calls of pitriotism, during the war, and partic- 
ularly on the approach of the British forces, in 1814 upon Platts- 
burgh. Many of the volunteers and militia of Essex, creditably 
participated in the events of that brief, although glorious cam- 
paign. 

The masses of tlie settlers of Essex county, were of New Eng- 
land origin, and in a congenial soil and climate, familiar' to their 
habits and experiences they implanted the usages and character- 
istics of their puritan fatherland. . No county of the state embraces 
a population of higher intelligence, of purer morality, or more 
industrious and frugal habits. Its early history presents only a 
counterpart of the asp* ct of every new colony, where among the 
virtuous and worthy, there always drifts from more matured 
communities, the loose and reckless. 



No. 112.] 715 

The disorganizing ard demoralizing effects of the war of the 
Revoliitiou, exerted a malignant infliu-nce upon the character of 
the frontier population. Essex county was not exempt from these 
consequences. The testimony befor*^ me of aged citizens, presents 
ft striking portraiturf ot the state of sucicty, in some secfiuns of the 
county, where the restraints of government were scarcely recogniz- 
ed and where laws seem to have admiuisteied culy to evil passions. 

I quote the language of a judicious observer, in speaking of a 
town, now second to none in its high ijioral and social position, 
" when an individual wished to secure a piece of land, he erected 
upon it a cabin, and rt^pelled others by jijiysical force, if unsuc- 
cessful or absent, his cabin was prostrated, and the last aggressor 
took possession of the coveted piemi^es, and claimed the title. 
The parties with iheir paitizans and a supply of wi^key, met on 
the soil, and " tried their wager of battle." The victor maintain- 
ed the possession. To correct these evils an association w:'.s form- 
ed, and a system a-l* p'ed, which required a person de>iiing to 
occupy a lot, to perfect a survey of the premises, and to jBle a tran- 
script with the secretary of the society. The title thus establish- 
ed was held sacred, for the purpose of that community.-'* 

The venerable author of a communication, describing the prim- 
itive habits of the county states " that justices' courts, at that pe- 
riod, were usually held in taverns, the inn keeper himself being 
the justice. The most frivolous difiicQltics, were nursed into 
law suits, these attended amid intemperance and revelings, 1< d to 
assaults, and tritling controversies which engendered further and 
debasing litigation. f 

Essex county presented in this ru.le and demoralized class of 
its citizens, a stageof society exhibite. I along every frontier of civili- 
zation. Wherever I h.ivf succeeded in. tracing the history of the 
early settlement of this county, lalmost universally have foimd one 
pr.'minent feature (lev«do}>ed, and uKich strongly marks the char- 
acter and desc'.nt vi the peojile. 

The fir&t impuise, and almost instinct cf tlie settlers, even when 
their cabins were !^cattered over a wide area of several miles, 

• C. Fenton, Esq. f I-^vi Uigby, Esq. 



716 [Assembly 

seems to have been to secure the erection of a school house. For 
many years in the early stages of the settlements, these schools had 
no legal organization and were sustained alone by the volnntary 
contributions of the people, unaided by the public bounty.* Tlie 
school house supplied the place of public worship. The missionary 
at an early day appeared in the midst of these settlements, super- 
ceding in the religious duties, the humbler 'offices of the private 
christian. Churches were soon organized in various sections of 
the county. Many colonies, w^ere accompanied in their emigra- 
tion by their own spirituM guides. f 

The cold season of 1816, which produced such universal distress 
and suffering, inflicted a scarcity upon this new country, that 
visited it almost with the horrors of famine. So close and pressing 
was the destitution, that the indigent, gathering from rnany miles 
about a mill, would crave the privilege of collecting its sweep- 
ings, to preserve the lives of their families. 

A few sufficiently provident to cut the corn in the sap, saved 
it sound enough for planting.- In the succeeding spring, many 
traveled fifty miles to procure this seed.| Partial failure of crops 
had before occured, but the season of 1816, will long be memorable, 
as the only instance in the history ,of the county, of extreme penu- 
ry and suffering. 

In presenting with a rapid sketch, a general outline of the 
further civil and social progress of the county, 1 propose, in order 
to avoid repetition, and to render, the exhibition of its agricultural 
and industrial pursuits more intelligible, to glance first at the 
topographical features and soil of the several towns. 

Ticonderoga and Crown Point present, upon the margin of 
Lake Champlain, a low and beautiful tract, gently undulating 

*John Hoffnagle. 

r 1 f I applied soon after my appointment from which has emanated this rfeport, to the Rev. Cyrus 
Comstook, who for near sixty years, had been intimately and with prominence, associated aa 
missionary and pastor, with the religious aflairs of Essex county, for materials to prepare an ex- 
tended sketch of its ecclesiastical history. He engaged to comply with my request, but his sick- 
ness and death, have disappointed my expectations and extinguished a source of valuable and 
interesting information on this subject, which I fear cannot he supplied. 

j:John Hoffnagle* 



No. 112.J 717 

and gradually ascending as it recedes, and swelling towards their 
western limits into bold and abrupt eminences. 

Clay predominates in these towns in the vicinity of the lake, 
intercepted by occasional seams of sand, and in the interior the 
soil is generally a gravel or sandy loam. Several sections of 
these towns are distinguished for the great excellence of their 
meadow lands. 

A view of Westpoit, Essex and Willsboro, from the lake, pre- 
sents ranges of higlily cultivated and fertile farms, mingled with 
a combination of hills and plains which beautifully adorn and 
diversify the scenery. The two former spread into the interior 
bosoms of choice land, more elevated and which are environed 
by lofty hills and mountains. Willsboro' point is a low, flat 
peninsula, projecting several miles into Champlain, having the 
OLg estuary known as Pereu bay, on its western side. This 
portion of Willsboro' aifords some of the best farms in the county. 
A ridge of high, warm and rich land traverses the town of Essex 
diagonally from near the lake to Whallonsburgh, embracing a 
territory of great natural fertility and inferior to few sections of 
the State in the advanced character and excellence of its tillage. 
The si)il of these towns is very diversified, although a sandy 
loam is its prevailing character. 

Moriah and Chesterfield, both bordering upon the lake, are 
more broken and* stony than the other lake towns, and contain 
less arable and cultivated land. The former ascends abruptly 
and in a series of terraces or high valleys, until it attains an ele- 
vation of several hundred feet a short distance from the lake. 
The soil of tliis tract is deep and strong. -Chesterfield contains 
many ranges of sand and rocky districts, but embraces much 
territory of very superior land. 

Elizabethtown and Lewis, lying among the gorges of the moun- 
tains and intersected by various branches of the Boquet, expose 
chiefly a light soil, with some alluvial flats and valleys enriched 
by tlie debris of the upland, which forms tracts of the choicest 
land. Parts of these towns are managed, in their agricultural 
affairs, with great skill and sagacity. No town, in the arena of 



718 [Assembly 

our county fairs, has borne off more prizes on both crops and 
animals, (rlian Lewis. Many of the citizens of Lewis oceupy the 
first rank, in their position as farmers. 

North Hudson and Keene, while they inchide several fine 
farms, are in the aggregate, broken and mountainous. The ter 
ritorial limits of Schroon equals the area of some counties, and is 
exeeedifigly diversified in the face of the country and the nature 
of the soil.* The centre of tlie town forms a beautiful rich yal- 
ley of warm alluvial soil, through which flows, along high and 
even banks, the waters of the upper Hu(ison. Successful culti- 
vation has been extended into the ravines and lecesses of the 
mountains traversed by tributaries of this stream. Fertile and 
cultivated tracts occur in various other sections of the town. 
On each side of the Schroon valley, lofty and rugged mountain 
tracts spiead over a large proportion of the territory. 

The local position of Schroon, remote from Lake Champlain, 
and separated from it by a range of high and almost impenetrable 
mountains, and sequestered from all other natural avenues, is 
unfavorable to the development of its vast native resources. A 
plank road extending from Glen's Falls to Chester, in Warren 
county, approaches its borders, and partially opens an access to 
market of the products of its industry and agriculture. Strong 
considerations of general interest are' now directed to the sulject 
of constructing a railroad through this important valley. Ftvr 
public improvements are contemplated, which would evoke more 
varied and extended elements of business and wealth. 

The town of Minerva v^^as organized from a part of Schroon, 
and incorporated in 1817, when it compiised a few log cabins 
scattered over its wide surface. It is situated in the extreme 
south-western corner of the county. A very large proportion of 
this town is still occupied by the original forest. Separated by 

• This town derives its nair.e from the lore'y lalie which it embiaccs. The legend is, that 
the hike was visited by the French in their military exjeditioris and in fishing and hunting 
cxcur.-'ions from Crown Point and Ti<'onderoga, and was named by them •''Searon," in honor 
of "the widow Searon," the cclehiated Madam Mainteion, of the reign of Loi'is XTV. 
Col. Andrew L. Ireland, of New-York, has a very beautiful si at on an island in tliis hike, 
which he calls " Isla bclla,"'and which is cmbcHished with great taste. The islands of lhi» 
lake aSTord sites for elegant and retired villas and country seats, unsurpassed by the waters of 
Cumberland and Westmoreland, in picturesque beauty and romantic seclusion. 



No. 112.] 719 

a high range of mountains, from other sections cf the county, 
connected with tliem by imperftct comniuni -atlon and with litile 
associations in their business affairs, this most valuable and in- 
teresting town has been little known or appreciated. Depressed 
by a combination of advei so circumstances previous to 1848jSince 
that period a new career has marked its } rogress. In the general 
improvement of the town, in the appearance of the farms, the 
erection of new buildings and the renovation of the old ones, no 
part of the county exhibited to my observation, more decisive 
and gratifying evidences of prosperity and advancement. 

The physical formation of Minerva is peculiar and striking. 
The whole territory of the town is elevated, rising in a gradual 
ascent of a succession of lofty valleys, tbrmed by deep, broad, 
and sweeping undulations. This formation, viewed from an 
eminence, communicates a rich vural aspect and great beauty to 
the landscape. In the language of one of its inhabitants,* 
"Minerva is a rugged and mountainous town, containing about 
one-third mountain, one-third feasible lami, and the residue 
rougli. and stony." A good road connects it with Warren county, 
where it would communicate with the contemplated railroad. 

The soil of this town is chiefly a strong and warm sandy loam. 
Large tracts of rich and desirable land remain unappropriated. 
These lands are in the market at exceedingly low prices. The 
town of Newcomb, which embraces the mass of the Adirondao 
group of mountains, forms, essentially ihe great watershed, from 
which flows tributaries of tlie Hudson, St. Lawrence :-'nd Lake 
Champlain. It is high, spreading over an elevation, (a part from 
the altitude of the mountains) ranging fiom 1500 to 1800 feet, 
which presents a broken and rocky surface. Yet its slopes and 
elevated valleys comprise tracts of much natural vigor, wi'.h great 
depth of soil. These qualities of the earth, aie exhibited by the 
dense and stately growth of its primitive and magnificent hard- 
wood forests. Isolated farms have been occupied in different parts 
of this town, since an early period ^ the present century. 

Newcomb embraces many districts of arable land, which are 
admirably adapted to meadow and grazing, from the vigor of the 

• A. p. Morse. 



720 [Assembly 

soil, and the humidity of the climate. The resuscitation of the 
Adirondac works, will render this neglected mountain tract, for 
these purposes, a valuable agricultural district. 

Jay was settled as early as 1798 ; remote, and at that time nearly 
inaccessible from Lake Champlain, is great natural fertility and 
beauty attracted the emigrant, who, passing by lands contiguous 
to that great artery of the country, penetrated to this wilderness by 
a mere bridle path, and transported thither, on horseback, his fami- 
ly and effects. A large porti )n of this town is formed of high and 
precipitous hills and mountains, and its whole territory is elevated. 

In the valleys, the soil is light, but usually vigorous. Upon 
several parallel ridges, which traverse nearly its entire length, 
ranges of land occur, distinguished by a warm, quick, and highly 
productive soil. These tracts allured the early emigration to 
this region almost sixty years ago, and they still preserve their 
high character for great and enduring fertility. ' » 

Wilmington and St. Armands recently separated from it, occu- 
py the north western angle of Essex county. They are generally, 
in their topographical aspect, elevated, rough and mountainous. 
Tlie soil is sandy and gravelly, with occasional alternations of 
loam. These towns comprise numerous bosoms and flats of excel- 
lent land. The long slopes gradually descending from the moun- 
tains to the valleys of the streams, present a highly picturesque 
and beatiful scenery. Settlements commenced in Wilmington in 
1800, and in the district now forming St. Armands, not until 
1829, by any permanent occupancy.* 



CHAPTER XII. 

SETTLEMENT CONTINUED. 

The town of North Elba is environed, upon all but its western 
borders, by a lofty Sierra, which separates it from the other sec- 
tions of the county, by an almost insuperable barrier. It is 
now approached only by a circuitous route, through Clinton and 
Franklin counties, or by the State road, which passes through 

*Elia3 Goodspeed. 



No. 112.] 721 

the deep gorges, and along the high and broken slopes of th 
Keene mountains. 

North Elba has little assimilation to the other towns of the 
county, either in its topographical arrangement or in the charac- 
ter of its soil. The gigantic amphitheatre of mountains, which 
almost encircle the town, form in its outline an arc of nearly sixty 
miles in extent, and embraces within this area, a territory of about 
one hundred square miles. 

Upon the west, the plains of North Elba, mingle with that vast 
plateau, teeming with rivers and lakes and forests, which spread 
to the shores of the St. Lawrence. The grandeur and imposing 
beauty of these mountain bulwarks, which singularly blending 
with a landscape of lakes and rivulets, vales and hills, combine 
to form a scenery of surpassing loveliness and magnificence. From 
one position, the eye gazes on the lofty group of the Adirondac 
mountains. Mt. Marcy stands out in his perfect contour and vast 
dimensions, Mt. Mclntire, Golden, McMartin, trace their outline 
upon the horizon, and far towards the south-west, the group of 
Mt. Seward limit the view ; on the north, " the Whiteface" en- 
velopes the plain, and on the east, tower the dark and rugged 
cliffs of the Keene mountains.. 

The western branch of the Au Sable river flows through the 
town, and nearly the whole distance along a wide alluvial valley, 
almost as broad, and apparently of fertility equal to the flats of 
the Mohawk river. The soil of this " intervale " is generally a 
deep alluvial. Ascending from the valley to the table land, the 
earth becomes a dark and rich loam, free from stones and rock. 
The growth of hard wood upon this territory, is in no part of the 
State surpassed in its size, quality and density. Its maple, 
birch, cherry and beech, are as stately, and form as highly tim- 
bered woodland as in the most favored- sections of the country. 
Slightly elevated above the table-land, and receding from the 
river, commence the plains, which expand far into the interior. 
This tract embraces, in its general character, a warm, rich sandy 
loam. This land is scarcely inferior to the other soils of the 
town in vigor, while it exerts an early and more impulsive influ- 
ence on vegetation, and is more easily and cheaply tilled. 

[Ag. Tr. '53 ] TV 



722 [Assembly 

With a view of instituting a comparison between this rich and 
beautiful region, and some of the most highly cultivated and pro- 
ductive districts of Vermont, and thus to test the adaptation of 
the former from altitude and climate, to agricultural purposes, 
I applied to the venerable and distinguished professor of Natural 
History, in the Vermont University, Rev. Zadock Thompson, for 
information on the subject. His reply is contained in the very 
interesting note annexed.* 

It will be perceived that the elevations mentioned by Professor 
Thompson, are from the basis of Lake Champlain, which is itself 
ninety-three feet above tide water. The plateau, which embraces 
the arable parts of North Elba, is estimated in the report of Pro- 
fessor Benedict, as ranging from 1,400, to 1,800 feet above tide. 
This town contains nearly eighty thousand acres of land, seven- 
tenths of which, it is computed, are susceptible of cultivation. I 
shall resume in other branches of this report, the consideration 
of its industrial resources and agricultural capabilities. 

In the north-eastern section of North Elba, and spreading into 
Wilmington, the most extensive and valuable tract of pine, spruce 
and hemlock, occurs which now remains in the county of Essex. 

* With regard to " the altitude of the highest choice agricultural farms," in Vermont, it 
may be remarked, generally, that a very considerable proportion, the choice and productive 
farms, lie at an elevation of more than 500 feet above the level of Lake Champlain, and many 
excellent ones in the central part of the State, at an elevation of 1,000 feet. Between Jericho 
Corners and Underhill flat, are several very choice farms, which lie 650 feet above the lake, 
and, at about that elevation, are a great number of excellent farms, scattered along the wes- 
tern slope of the Green Mountains,' from the central part of Addison county, to the Canada 
line. The broad and fertile valley of Otter Creek, from Middlebury, to the south part of Rut- 
land county, has an elevation varying from 300 to 500 feet. The average height of the culti- 
vated farms lying between Lake Champlain and the summit of the Green Mountains, is about 
400 feet. In Franklin, and in the northern part of Chittenden county, there are large tracts 
of sandy plains, which were originally covered with pines, and which have a pretty uniform 
elevation of 200 feet. The soil is light, and naturally, not very productive. The lands in all 
the counties north of Rutland, rise gradually from the lake shore to the summit of the Green 
Mountains, where they have an altitude ot 4000 feet, and some very good farms are cultivated 
at an elevation of 900 feet. East of the main ridge oC the Green Mountains, there are excel- 
lent farms at a still greater elevation. The whole county of Orleans, lies more than 500 feet 
above Lake Champlain; and it contains many fine productive farms, and some of the finest and 
most productive are on the swell of land called " Craftsbury Common," at an elevation of 1000 
feet. Further south, in the western part of Orange county, there is a similar, but much larger 
swell, constituting the principal part of three townships, viz, Randolph, Brookfield and Wil- 
liamstown. This tract is elevated from 800 to 1,200 feet above Lake Champlain, and upon it 
are many of the most beautiful and most productive /arms in the State. 



No. 112.] 723 

While almost the whole timber land in the county has been ex- 
hausted, this has been preserved, for a field of future enterprise, 
hj its sequestered and inaccessible position. 

The great beauty of this town, its agricultural capabilities, and 
its peculiar history as well as the general absence of information 
relative to its character and importance, seem to require a some- 
what extended view of its progress and condition.* 

A few pioneers, near the commencement of this century, with 
their families, entered into this remote and deeply secluded re- 
gion. They seem to have encountered severer hardships and 
trials than the ordinary privations incident to a frontier life. 
Divided from civilized society by a chain of almost impenetrable 
mountains, they probably reached the place then known as the 
Plains of Abraham, by the circuitous route, now traversed by a 
road, along the course of the Saranac. While they waited in ex- 
pectation of the scanty harvest yielded by their improvident ag- 
riculture, they subsisted by fishing and hunting, and from sup- 
plies transported by their own labor from the nearest settlements. 
The numerous beaver meadows furnished an abundant supply of 
fodder and grazing for the cattle. Until 1810 little progress was 
made either in the agricultural or social condition of this remote 
colony. The construction about that period of the " Elba Iron 
Works," by Archibald Mclntyre and his associates, gave a new as- 
pect to the affairs of this region. The history of that enterprise 
I shall narrate in another place. The requirements of these works 
created occupation for all the population in the vicinity, formed 
a domestic market, and attracted numerous settlers. Schools 
were established, religious ordinances observed, and an efficient 
and benign influence exerted by the benevolent proprietors. 
Unhappily for the progress and permanent prosperity of the dis- 
trict, nearly all the land in the township at this period was held 

• The vestiges of Indian occupation in North Elba, and the territory around the interior 
lakes which remain,, leave no doubt that at some former period they congregated there in great 
numbers. I found in the county a obscure tradition that the partizan Kogers attacked and 
destroyed a village in the absence of the warriors, situated on the " Plains of Abraham ;" that 
he was pursued and overtaken, and a battle fought on the banks of the Boquetj just below the 
village of Pleasant Valley. Kelics of both European and savage weapons of war found on the 
scene of the supposed conflict, seem lo corroborate the legend, or at least indicate the probabil- 
ity of anengajement between Europeans and Indians having occurred at that place. 



724 [Assembly 

by the State. The emigrant, when he arrived, selected his lot 
without perfecting a title, or even securing a pre-emption, relying 
upon his right and ability to do so at his convenience. This de- 
lay eventually defeated their occupation of the farms, and blasted 
all the anticipated rewards of the toil and privations of the pio- 
neers. ' 

In the language of a citizen of the town, "a great landholder 
heard of this territory of State lands, came and inspected it, re- 
turned to Albany and made a purchasie at the land office of the 
entire tract,"* The settlers, soon apprised of this event, so fraught 
with evil and calamity to themselves, sought to purchase of him 
their possessions. He announced to them that the lands were not, 
at that time, in market. They too well understood, the purport 
of this intimation. They were not, however, disturbed in their 
occupation, but unwilling to continue a course of improvement, 
which might enure only to the benefit of a stranger, little further 
progress was made in the cultivation of their farms, and the land 
was gradually abandoned with the exception of a few lots. 

The calamitous season of 1816, visited that elevated region 
with augmented severity and suffering. The Elba company 
relinquished their works about the year 1820. This event was the 
final catastrophe in the affairs of the original settlement of the 
town. When the country was generally abandoned under these 
circumstances by the inhabitants, their improvements had extend- 
ed over a large tract of meadow, arable, and pasture land. The 
few occupants who remained, enjoyed the unmolested use of these 
cultivated fields, and neglected the appropriate care and tillage of 
their own premises. The enclosures rapidly decayed, and the 
territory soon became an extensive common. The scattered in- 
habitants reverted to the Beaver meadows for fodder, and hunt- 
ing and fishing again became their chief occupation. The roads 
fell into decay, schools were discontinued, religious ordinances 

* T. S. Nash. I am deeply indebted to Mr. Nash for elaborate notes on the history, &c., of 
North Elba, prepared at my solicitation. They evince unusual sagacity and discrimination. I 
regret that my limited space will not permit an introdvxction of these notes, as they furnish 
oridence that the "Backwoodsmen of America can wield the pen with almost as much vigor 
as the axe." 



No. 112.] 725 

were forsaken and the restraints of the Sabbath, with rare ex- 
ceptions, disregarded, t 

In 1840, only seven families remained on the 80,000 acres 
which now forms the' town of North Elba. At this time the lands 
were offered for sale, emigration was again directed to the region, 
and the evidences of returning prosperity were restored. The 
public highways were again opened and improved. At this pe- 
riod a n'^w episode occurred in the chequered history of North 
Elba. Mr. Gerrit Smith, -who had become an extensive proprie- 
tor of the town, made gratuitous conveyances of a large number 
of quarter lots, embracing forty acres each, to colored persons, 
with the professed design, it was understood, of forming a colony, 
which should constitute an asylum for a peculiar class of African 
poptilation. I found no difference of opinion in that region, in 
reference to the character and results of this movement. What- 
ever may have been the motive of the benefaction, the issue of 
the experiment has entailed only disappointment and suffering 
upon the recipients of the gratuity, while the act has exercised a 
depressing and sinister influence upon the prosperity and reputa- 
tion of the country. The Negro, ill adapted in his physical con- 
stitution to the rigorous climate, with neither experience or com- 
petency to the independent management of business affairs, and 
adverse to them from habits and propensities, soon felt the iuap- 
propriateness of his position. He has abandoned his acquisition in 
disgust and disappointment, or became, in many instances, an 
impoverished and destitute object of public or private charity. 
A very considerable proportion of these freeholds have been sold 
for taxes ; others have passed into the hands of speculators, and 
only two of the large number of original grantees now retain the 
occupation of the farms, they received. A knowledge of these 
facts has been widely diffused, and although the whole scheme 
bore in its inception the inherent elements of failure, the result 
has been imputed not to these causes, but public opinion has 
ascribed it to an inhospitable climate and the sterility of the soil. 
A reluctance, innate to the New Engl'nd sentiment, to mingle 
with a colored population, in the social relations of a new coun- 

• Notes of T. S. Nash. 



' 726 [Assembly 

trjj has been another potent influence that has tended to arrest 
the course of emigration to this territory. 

At one period in the progress of this experiment it seemed 
probable that the colored freeholders would obtain the political 
preponderance in the town, when the anomalous spectacle might 
have been exhibited, of an African supervisor occupying a seat 
in the county legislature. 

The impression prevails, that an ulterior effort, connected with 
educational purposes, will still be made to promote the occupa. 
tion of North Elba by an African population. The sentiments 
of the people of this region are deeply and vehemently opposed 
to being made the theatre of these social and political experiments. 

During the brief operations of the Adirondac wor'ks, the affairs 
of North Elba received a fresh impulse. A road cut through the 
forest, in tlie gorges of the mountains, gave to the inhabitants a 
winter communication with that place, where they enjoyed the 
advantages of a ready market, at liberal prices, for all their agri- 
cultural commodities. 

North Elba was separated from Keene, and incorporated in 
1849. The population of the town is steadil}^ advancing, and 
now amounts to more than two hundred souls. Lands may be 
purchased, which are adapted to farming purposes, for from $1 to 
$6 per acre, the price being governed by position, and the condition 
of the premises, in reference to improvements and cultivation. 

The martial events, which shed such lustre upon the early annals 
of this territory, and the thrilling incidents connected with its 
first colonization, have been succeeded by the humbler and less 
exciting arts of peace. The paramount interests of industry and 
agriculture, have given their impress to the present character of 
the county. I propose to present a hasty narrative of their ini- 
tiation, progress and existing condition, when I shall have 
sketched a brief description of the physical geography and the 
natural history of the region. 



PART II. 
PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 



The physical formation of Essex county unites peculiar and 
striking characteristics. The beautiful and picturesque are sin- 
gularly blended with the magnificent and imposing. Exhibitions 
of impressive grandeur, scarcely transcended by the magnificence 
of Niagara, are combined with scenes of incomparable sylvan 
beauty and romantic seclusion. A very large proportion of the 
county is formed by a general upheaval of its basis, which pro- 
duced a common elevation of the whole region, except along the 
shores of Lake Champlain, and some of its tributaries. It may be 
pronounced, in the aggregate a broken and mountainous territo- 
ry. Many districts, how^ever, embracing large portions of entire 
townships, exhibit a very high degree of native fertility and adap- 
tat'on to tillage. 

The surface of these tracts is usually level, or presents gentle 
and agreeable undulations. Extensive valleys, lying elevated 
among the mountains, possess the richest soil, formed by the ac- 
cumulation of ages, from the debris of the higher steeps. Allu- 
vial flats of great extent and natural fertility, spread along the 
margin of numerous streams, and surround the hidden lakes and 
ponds in the interior. 

The hills and mountains, far up their slopes, often afford a rich 
and generous soil, yielding the choicest pasture and meadow lands. 
Although these advantages may mitigate its general character, 
the country presents a vast surface, rock-bound and inaccessible 
in its cliffs and heights, and impracticable to cultivation. A large 
portion of this territory, stamped by nature with ruggedness and 



728 [Assembly 

desolation, and closed against the approaches of agriculture, teems 
with immeasurable wealth in its forests and mines. 

Several detached and broken ranges of mountains enter the coun- 
ty from the south. These mountains appear to lose their distinctive 
peculiarities as a system or general range, and are thrown together 
in promiscuous, massive groups. Two of these disturbed ranges 
reach the limits of the county at Ticonderoga. They are not high, 
but exceediDgly abrupt and jagged. One, suddenly terminates at 
Mount Defiance, and the dther subsides into slight eminences in 
the vicinity of Lake George. Two other ranges, loftier and more 
important, exhibiting the same dislocated character, traverse the 
county in nearly parallel tracks. They both terminate in bold 
and majestic promontories upon Lake Champlain, and spread 
their lateral projections over the county. These lofty promonto- 
ries, at some points upon the lake, present a high and nearly per- 
pendicular wall, and at others their huge beetling cliifs impend 
over the water. These impressive spectacles of mountain scenery 
are exhibited at Moriah, Willsboro, Westport and Chesterfield. 

Peaks occur along the line of these sierras, which in other re- 
gions would be regarded as conspicuous landmarks, but liere, 
associated with loftier and more imposing summits, they have 
neither names nor notoriety. Among the class of secondary 
mountains within the county are " Pharaoh," in Schroon, " Mount 
Dix," in North Hudson, and the " Bald-face," in Westport, which 
attract attention and are admired for their position and formation. 
In the Adirondac group, situated chiefly in the towns of Keene 
and Newcomb, a cluster occurs of the loftiest and most remarka- 
ble mountains east of the Mississippi. Less elevated than indi- 
vidual summits of the White Hills of New-Hampshire, or the 
Black Mountain of North Carolina, they far exceed any entire 
ran'^e in the gigantic magnitude of their proportions, and in the 
grandeur and beauty of their structure. It is extraordinary, that 
the public should, until so recent a period, have been in compa- 
rative ignorance of this remarkable group of mountains, and of 
the deeply interesting and romantic country they envelop in their 
mighty folds. They are within forty miles of Lake Champlain, 
the great avenue of northern commerc?, and so familiar to the 
fashionable tourist. Their highest peaks are visible from Burling- 



No. 112.] 729 

ton, and the altitude of Mt. M^rcy has actually been de- 
termined from that point. The idea, however, is inaccurate, 
that this tract had not been explored until a recent date, or that 
these mountains were unknown, until a late discovery. All these 
scenes have been, for many years, familiar to innumerable hunters, 
pioneers, and surveyors. Most of these prominent summits are 
visible through a wide territory, (which has been occupied for 
nearly half a century) not in the obscurity of distance, but in the 
full exhibition of their majesty and glory. 

Mount Marcy, the monarch of these wilds, towers above the 
surrounding pinnacles, in' a beautiful cone, and in one view nearly 
an acute apex. Ascending above every contiguous object, and 
peering with this strilsing formation far upward, no one can con- 
template ic without recognizing the force and appropriateness 
of its name, in the energetic and beautiful nomenclature of the 
Indians. They called the towering mountain, projecting its aciite 
top toward the heavens, "Taliawus," " The Cloud-splitter?'' The 
height of this mountain, above tide water, is 5,467 feet. Another 
eminence, Mount Mclntyre, supposed to fall a little below Mount 
Marcy in altitude, perhaps surpasses it in ponderous magnificence, 
and presents a more uniform, massive and compact structure. 
The Dial mountain, Mount Seward, McMartin, Golden, and other 
peak:? unmeasured, of apparently equal if not greater dimensions, 
mingle in this cluster, and impresst a stamp of Alpine grandeur 
upon {lie scenery. 

A lofty, range, known as the " Keene Mountains," presents a 
peculiar aspect; dark, broken, and frowning. The "White-face 
Mountain," in the majestic Indian dialect " Waho-partenie," an 
eminence of 4,855 feet, stands remote from the other groups, and 
occupies the northern extremity of the huge mountain belt that 
encircles tlie town of North Elba. This peak, from its rare and 
admirable proportions, its bald summit, solitary isolation, and the 
vast pre-eminence of its height over surrounding objects, is a 
beautiful and conspicuous landmark, over a wide horizon. A 
few years since it presented a spectacle of unequaled sublimity. 
In the heat and drouth of midsummer, the combustible materials 
upon its summit were fired by accident or design, and during one 



730 [Assembly 

whole night the conflagration raged, exhibiting to the gaze of 
hundreds, almost the splendor and awe of a volcanic eruption, in 
its wildest vehemence.* 

Public sentiment will not ratify the acts of private men, who 
would obliterate the aboriginal names of the great physical features 
of this continent, and substitute those of individuals, however 
eminent their political position or excellent and esteemed their 
private characters. The Indian nomenclature is pre-eminently 
rich in its force and euphony, and in the beauty and illustrative 
appropriateness of its designations. The names they have attach- 
ed to physical objects, will soon be the only vestiges of their exis- 
tence. They will leave no otlier monuments of their former pre- 
sence upon the land they once possessed, and fondly deemed their 
own peculiar heritage. 

LAKES. 

Lake Champlavn — -In an earlj^ part of this report, I glanced at 
the military aspect and commercial importance of Lake Champlain. 
The rare and exceeding beauty of its scenery arrests, and delights 
the observer. On the east it is bounded by an undulating plain, 
rich in a high and luxuriant culture, whilst beyond this, the 
horizon is limited by the bold and broken outline of the Green 
Mountains. On the western border the dark and towering 
Adirondacs, spread far into the interior, here and there project- 
ing their rugged spurs into the bosom of the lake, and often form- 
ing lofty and inaccessible headlands, covered with forests, or ex- 
posing bleak and frowning masses of naked rock. The lake ranges 
in width, from one mile to fifteen miles. It is studded by innu- 
merable islands ; some of which are mere rocky projections; others 
clothed in their native green woods, rest like gems upon the wa- 
ters, and others, formed by alluvial deposits, are unsurpassed in 
their native loveliness, or in their exuberant fertility. 

The severity of a northern climate, closes the navigation of this 
lake, no inconsiderable portion of the j'^ear. The ice usually forms 
upon the broadest part about the 1st of February, and remains in 
an average of years, until near the 1st of April. The navigation 
is suspended for a longer period, by the ice forming earlier and 

•Iddo Osgoodj Esq. 



No. 112.] 731 

remaining later, at each extremity . Tlie lake occasionally remains 
open the entire winter. The transition from navigation to the 
transit of the lake upon the ice, is often amazingly sudden, teams 
having crossed its broadest part, upon the ice the fifth day after it 
had been passed by a steamer. The ice often attains great thick- 
ness. The spectacle, frequently afforded by this vast expanse of 
icy surface, is singularly beautiful and exhilerating. It furnishes 
for several weeks the great highway of business and pleasure. 
Roads diverging from every point, are animate with activity and 
excitement. Long trains of teams, freighted with the commodi- 
ties of the country, glide easily over it, whilst the pleasure sleigh 
bounds along its smooth and crystal field, breaking the stillness 
by the music of its merry bells. Little danger occurs in the tran- 
sit of the ice, except in the passage of the cracks or fissures, which 
starting from the various points and headlands, rend the ice asunder 
with a sound and concussion like the reverberation of thunder, or 
the prolonged discharge of ordinance. These fissures entirely sep- 
arate the ice, and are designed by the wise purposes of Provi- 
dence to strengthen it, by affording an escape to the pent up air 
beneath. 

The balmy atmosphere and warmer sun of approaching spring, 
affect and gradually weaken the ice. Travelling on it, then 
becomes hazardous, and is often attended with great jeopardy and 
frequent loss of life and property. The inhabitants, residing upon 
the sliores of the lake, are habituated to these perils and famil- 
iar to the modes of assistance. On the alarm of accident, they 
rush to the point of danger, with prompt and efficient zeal, bear- 
ing ropes and boards and other requisite articles, and rarely fail 
to extricate the sufferer. 

These and other incidents of exposure and suffering upon the 
ice, often present scenes of the most painful solicitude and thril- 
ling excitement.* 

* An event occurred, several years since, which illustrates many similar catastrophies, and la 
a touching instance of the intelligence and fidcliLy of the dog. A stranger, apparently a 
foreigner, accompanied hy a little Spaniel dog, arrived near nightfall at Port Kent, in the 
midst of a severe storm, and persisted, against every remonstrance, in attempting to cross the 
ice alone and on foot. At an early hour the next morning, the house where he had stopped, WM 
aroused by the dog, who tried by barking and every demonstration of anxiety to arouse atten- 
tion and sympathy. Guided by the little animal, who immediately returned to the ice, scVfetal 



732 [Assembly 

The final " breaking up " of the ice in the spring often affords 
a scene of intense interest. The evidences are readily recog- 
nised, which portend the event. Its surface exhibits several 
marlied and peculiar phases, which indicate the progress of decay. 
Its usual transparent and brilliant clearness, yields to a dark and 
clouded aspect. This is succeeded by a soft and snowy color, as 
the moisture leaves the surface and penetrates the mass. The 
next stage in its dissolution is exhibited as the body of ice be- 
comes porous and loosing its buoyancy, sinks to the level of the 
water. Its appearance then is black and portentous, and can 
scarcely be contemplated without a feeling of awe and dread. 
The fissures now open and expand. The ice separates into larger 
bodies, and driten by the winds in immense fields, is broken up, 
and often piled in huge masses upon the shores where it remains 
late in the spring, a memorial of the passed empire of winter. 
At other times, the ice continues nearly entire, until saturated 
with water, it at once, in a moment as it were, disappears, dis 
solving into its original element. 

In the progress of dissolution of the ice, a singular phenomenon 
is revealed. The mass at this time, exhibits a combination of an 
infinitude of parallel crystals or icicles, arranged in a perpendicu- 
lar formation, and each distinct and perfect, extending from the 
lower side to the surface, or in other words, from the water to the 
atmosphere. These particles separate from each other in the pro- 
cess of disintegration. 

A day of jubilee and rejoicing succeeds, when these icy fetters 
are finally broken, and intercourse is restored. The advent of 
the first steamer of the season, always rejuvenated during the 
winter, and fresh from the hands of the painter, is hailed at each 
landing by shoutings and the pealings of artillery. 

Interior Lakes and Rivers. — The numerous lakes and gem-like 
ponds, that stud the surfoce of the county in such profusion, not 
only diversify and adorn the scenery, but are the sources of the 

persons followed him to near the center of the lake, when he rushed upon an apparent snow 
driftj and began to dig with the most piteous cries. He soon revealed beneath the wreath of 
snow the lifeless and frozen remains of the unfortunate roaster, his courage and sagacity had 
failed to save. The faithful creature was preserved and cherished as his intelligence and 
fidelity deserved. — Col, CM. Watson. , 



No. 112.] 733 

vast water power so essential to the industrial interests and pros- 
perity of the county. This water, chiefly arising from springs, is 
usually cold, clear, and pure. Schroon lake, lying partly in 
Warren county, is ten miles long and one and a half broad, and 
is remarkable for its quiet and romantic beauty. A high, preci- 
pitous shore encloses it on the east, and on the west a cultivated 
and delightful tract spreads its fertile fields down to the brink. 
This lake forms the reservoir to the waters of the upper Hudson. 
It is already the channel of a valuable trafic, and will become 
highly important to the rapidly increasing manufacturing business 
of the district. 

Paradox lake is situated in the same valley, and is separated 
from Schroon lake by a drift or alluvial, of apparently modern 
formation. Paradox lake occupies the basin of hills that environ 
it in a gentle ascent, except the narrow passage at its outlet, which 
is a confluent of the Schroon river and nearly on a level with it. 
The river, swollen by the mountain torrents, often rises higher 
than this lake, and pours its waters into the basin, presenting the 
paradoxical appearance of a stream rushing back upon its foun- 
tain head. The lake derives, from this singular fact, its unique 
but not inappropriate name. 

Directly east of Schroon lake, and elevated above it several 
hundred feet, lies Lake Pharaoh, an important body of water, sur- 
rounded by a group of dark and gloomy mountains. In this vi- 
cinity cluster numerous ponds, the fountain heads of valuable 
streams. • _ 

The miniature lakes and ponds, which repose in almost every 
valley among the Adirondacs, and form the head springs of the 
Hudson, possess indescribable romance and beauty. Now they 
are embraced and hidden by dense and unbroken forests, and now 
encompassed by lofty mountains, whose inaccessible precij^ices de- 
scend into their waters by a nearly vertical wall, and now slum- 
Dering in the bosom of some lovely and picturesque nook, their 
mirrored surface, reflecting this varied scenery, is alone broken 
by the leaping of a trout, the gambols of a deer, or, at far inter- 
vals, by the oar of the solitary hunter. These gentle and sub- 



734 [Assembly 

duing beauties of nature, combined with the awe-imposing and 
thrilling grandeur of their mountain spectacles, with the pure, 
invigorating and health-inspiring air which envelopes them, must 
render these solitudes among the most desirable and attractive 
resorts, to the philosopher, the invalid and the tourist of pleasure. 

Lake Placid, situated principally in North Elba, just touches 
that beautiful valley, in the incomparable landscape of which it 
forms a conspicuous and very essential feature. Its great expanse, 
its deep and transparent waters, its beautiful proportions, stretch- 
ing its sinuosities along bold headlands far into the recesses of 
the mountains, until in the distant view, its waters seem to lave 
the base of " White face," although in fact separated from it by 
a rich valley of two miles in width, unite to render Lake Placid, 
one of the most delightful and attractive objects in this land of 
loveliness and silence. A small pond connects with the lake, by 
a narrow channel. This pond has no other inlet or outlet, and is 
distinguished by a singular circumstance. The water flows for a 
period of two or three minutes, from the lake into the pond, an in- 
terval of a few seconds succeeds, with no apparent motion of the 
water, after this, for the same time, it flows back again into the 
lake. This ebbing and flowing is, I believe, perpetual.* Lake 
Placid is one of the most important heads of the Au Sable river. 
The manufacturing interest on tlie line of that stream, has erected 
at the outlet of the lake, an expensive and ponderous dam. This 
work, forms the lake into a capacious reservoir, and secures a 
permanent supply of water at all seasons, to the immense works 
moved by the Au Sable. 

I may here appropriately refer to a fact of some philosophical 
interest and great practical importance. In the progress of my 
survey, I have observed, in repeated instances, the ruins of mills 
and dams, which in the early occupation of the county had am- 
ple water power, not a vestige of which now remains, but a deep 
and worn ravine, that once formed its channel. As the progress 
of agricultural and manufacturing imj^rovements, before which 
forests are levelled, the country opened, and the earth exposed to 
the influence of the sun and atmosphere, advances, springs and 

*T. L. Nash. 



No. 113.] 735 

streams will be dried up, and it will become imperatively neces- 
sary to adopt artificial means to control and preserve the water 
power of this county. 

Lake Placid is near, but does not unite with that system of 
lakes and rivers which indicate the track, and will hereafter 
constitute tlie basis of an extensive and valuable inland naviga- 
tion. I propose to recur again to this highly important and in- 
teresting topic. 

RIVERS. 

The elevated and extended highlands of Essex county, na- 
turally form the great water shed of an extended territory. In 
iheir recesses, the sources of the Hudson almost mingle with the 
waters that flow intoChamplain and the tributaries of the St. Law- 
rence. A rivulet gurgling towards the Hudson, flows from one ex- 
tremity of the Indian Pass, and a branch of the Au Sable from the 
opposite. A pond, lying amid the rocks, hundreds of feet above 
the pass, discharges its waters into a confluent of the St. Lawrence. 
The streams of a district, like Essex county, broken and mountain- 
ous, will be numerous, but turbulent and precipitous. These char- 
acteristics are eminently useful in the aspect of a manufacturing 
interest. Wherever the demands of business require water power 
in the county, it exists or can be at once created. 

The tributaries of the Hudson, traverse every section of the 
southwestern portion of the county, and afibrd illimitable facili- 
ties to various mechanical and other industrial occupations. 
Putnam's creek, formed by the lakes and ponds in the mountains 
of the interior, courses a distance of twenty miles, supplying the 
power to numerous works, and enters the lake at Crown Point. 
The Boquet, interlaces by its numerous branches, the central por- 
tion of the county, and affording, in a course of forty-five miles, 
unnumbered water privileges, discharges into the lakeat Willsboro. 
Several of the most extensive and valuable manufacturing works in 
the county , are established upon this stream. The Boquet was for- 
merly navigable to the falls, a distance of three miles, by the 
largest vessels upon the lake. Its channel, now changed and ob- 
structed, only admits, at favorable periods of the year, the light- 
est crafts. 



736 I Assembly- 

Lake George penetrates Essex county several miles, and dis- 
charges through an outlet of about three miles and a half in 
length, into Lake Champlain, by a strong, deep, and equable 
stream, which is navigable to the lower falls. This stream in Us 
course fr-om Lake George to the falls, forms a most extraordi- 
nary water power, in some peculiarities, without a parallel. It 
discharges, per second, a volume of water, exceeding 400 feet, 
along a natural canal of one mile and a half in length, making 
chiefly by a gradual descent, a fall of 220 feet. Through almost 
its whole course, water wheels, connected with machinery, may be 
dropped from its elevated rocky banks, into the stream, and pro- 
pelled almost without any artificial arrangement. The sloping 
banks of Lake George, form an immense receptacle where the 
excess of water is accumulated, and gradually discharges. Hence) 
no freshets can endanger the works upon its outlet, but a uniform 
and permanent supply of water is secured at all seasons, and un- 
der all circumstances. This stream rarely varies three feet from 
its ordinary level. The warmth of the water, and the rapidity 
of the current, prevents every obstruction from ice to the wheel. 
The water may be diffused laterally, and its power multiplied to 
any extent. The great and rare purity of the water, renders it 
particularly adapted to those manufactories which require dy- 
ing, bleaching, and printing facilities. In combination with all 
these singular advantages, this positioj:i commands the commercial 
thoroughfare formed by the lakes ; it may reach the immense for- 
ests extending far into the interior ; spreading upon each side 
of Lake George, it has, within its own environs, a rich and abun- 
dant mineral region, and has near and easy access to the vast iron 
deposits of the Moriah district. 

Such harmony in its arrangements, so great and remarkable 
advantages in the bounties of Providence, are rarely combined. 
The utilitarian spirit of the age, the interests of business and 
enterprise, would long since have converted these neglected 
privileges into elements of prosperity and wealth; but the blight 
of foreign ownership has paralysed those high bounties. Tlie cu- 
pidity or grossly mistaken and pernicious policy of these proprie- 
tors has imposed terms so exacting, as to repel every purpose 
of an adequate occupation of these advantages. 



No. 112,] 737 

The two principal branches of the Au Sahle, nearly equal in 
size and importance, rise principally in the western part of Essex 
county, and by their wide spread and multifarious confluents, 
drain a territory of about eight hundred square miles. They 
unite at the Au Sable Forks, and roll along the Au Sable Valley, 
a motive power that impels more varied and extensive industrial 
pursuits, than almost any other stream upon the continent of 
equal capacity and extent. The river Saranac penetrates this 
county, from Franklin, near the line of North Elba and St. Ar~ 
mand, and crossing the latter diagonally, enters Clinton county. 
Gliding along high level banks, with scarcely a perceptible cur- 
rent, it exhibits the form and aspect of an artificial canal. It is 
navigable in Essex county, a distance of about fifteen miles, by 
small boats ; and probably by slight improvements, may be 
adapted to the passage of the smaller class of sci'ew-steamers. 

Natural Curiosities-. 

Indian Pass. — The mighty convulsions which have upheaved 
the vast mountains of this region, or rent asunder the barriers 
that enclosed the seas, which washed their cliffs, have left im- 
pressive vestiges of their power, in the striking natural phenome- 
na spread over the country. None of them afford more wonder- 
ful exhibitions of those terrific agencies, or more imposing beauty 
and magnificence, than a remarkable gorge, known as the" Indian 
Passj^^ in the impressive aboriginal " Otneyarh," the " Stonish 
Giants." It occupies a narrow ravine, formed by a rapid acclivity 
of Mount McMartin on one side, rising at an angle of 45°, and on 
the opposite, by the dark naked wall of a vertical precipice, tow- 
ering to an altitude of 800 to 1,200 leet from its base, and ex- 
tending nearly a mile in length. The base itself is elevated 
about 2,500 feet. The deep and appalling gorge is strewn and 
probably occupied for several hundred feet,' with gigantic frag- 
ments hurled into it from the impending cliffs, by some potent 
agency. The elements still advance the process. So exact and 
wonderful is the stupendous masonry of this bulwark, that it 
seems, could human nerve allow the effort, a stone dropped from 
the summit, might reach the base without striking an imjiedi- 
ment. The pencil cannot portray, nor language describe, the full 
grandeur and sublimity of this spectacle. The deep seclusion, 

[Ag. Tr. '53] WW 



738 [Assembly 

the wild solitude of tlie place, awe and impress. Many miles 
from human habitation, nature here reigns in her primitive si- 
lence and repose. The eagles form their eyries amid these inac- 
cessible clififSj acd seem like some humble biid as they hover over 
the deep abjss. The heavy forests that clothe the steeps of Mc 
Martin, and shroud the broken and confused masses of rock in 
the gorge, add to the gloom and solemnity of these dark recesses. 
A tiny rivulet just starting from its birthplace amid these solitudes, 
chafes and frets along its rocky passage, in its course to the Hud- 
son. 

The " Wilmington JVotch." — The western branch of the Au Sa- 
ble breaks' through its mountain barrier, in a scene almost as thril- 
ling and impressive. The river compressed in a narrow passage 
of a few ifeet, becomes here an impetuous torrent, foams and 
dashes along the base of a precipitous wall, formed by the White- 
face Mountain, which. towers above it, in nearly a perpendicular 
ascent of thousands of feet, whilst on the other side it almost 
reaches the abrupt, naked and rugged craggs, of another lofty 
precipice. Bursting through this obstacle, it leaps into an abyss 
of more than an hundred feet in depth, so dark and impervious 
from mantling trees and impending rocks, that the eye cannot 
reach its hidden mazes. The accomplishment of a projected 
road, designed to lead through this pa5s, will render this remarka- 
ble spot accessible to the tourist ; and I can imagine no scene- 
more attractive by its wild and romantic beauty, or its stern and 
appalling grandeur. The whole course of the Au Sable and its 
branches presents a series of falls, cascades and rapids, "vvhich, 
whilst they adorn and animate the scenery, afford innumerable 
sites of water power, rarely exceeded in capacity and position. 

" Walled hanks of the Au Sable.^'' — The passage of the Au Sable 
river, along its lofty and perpendicular banks and through the 
chasm at the " high bridge" is more familiar to the public mind, 
than most of the striking and picturesque features in the roman- 
tic and interesting scenery of that stream. The continued and 
gradual force of the current, aided perhaps by some vast ef- 
fort of nature, has formed a passage of the river through the deep 
layers of sandstone rock, which are boldly developed above the 



No. 112.1 739 

village of Keeseville, and form the embankment of the river, un- 
til it reache's the quiet basin below the high bridge. In the vicin- 
ity of Keeseville, the passage of the stream is through a wall upon 
either side of fifty feet in height ; leaving this, it glides gently 
along a low valley, until suddenly precipitated over a precipie«f 
that creates a fall of singular beauty. Foaming and surging from 
this point, over a rocky bed, until it reaches the village of Birming- 
ham, it there abruptly leaps into a dark, deep chasm of sixty feet. 
A bridge, with one abutment setting upon a rock that divides the 
stream, crosses the river at the head of this fall. This bridge is 
perpetually enveloped in a thick cloud of spray and mist. In 
winter, the frost work encrusts the rock and trees, with the most 
gorgeous fabrics, myriads of columns and arches and icy diamonds 
and stalactites, glitter in the sun beams. In the sunshine a bril- 
liant rainbow, spreads its radiant arc over this deep abyss. All 
these elements, rare in their .combination, shed upon this scene 
an effect inexpressibly wild, picturesque and beautiful. The 
river plunges from the latter precipice, amid the embrasures 
of the vast gulf, in which for nearly a mile it is nearly hidden, 
to observation from above. It pours a wild torrent, now along a 
natural canal, formed in the rocks in almost perfect and exact 
courses, and now darts madly down a precipice. The wall rises 
in a vertical face upon each side from seventy five to one hundred 
and fifty feet, whilst the width of the chasm rarely exceeds thirty 
feet, and at several points the stupendous masonry of the opposite 
walls approaches within eight or tenfeet. Lateral fissures deep and 
narrow, project from the main ravine at nearly right angles. The 
abyss is reached through one of these crevices by a stair- way des- 
cending to the water by 212 steps. The entire mass of these walls 
is furmed of laminse of sandstone rock, laid in regular and precise 
structure almost rivaling the most accurate mason work. The 
pines and cedars starting from the apertures of the wall, spread 
a canopy over the gulf. The instrumentality, which has produc- 
ed this wonderful work, is a problem that presents a wide scope 
for interesting, but unsatisfactory speculation. 

A report of the State Geologists a'^serts, " that near the bottom 
of the fissure at the ' high bridge' and through an extent of 70 feet, 
numerous specimens of a small bivalvular molusca or lingular" are 



740 [Assembly 

discovered, and " that ripple marks appear at the depth of 70 or 
80 feet." * 

" Split rockP — Travellers in passing through Lake Champlainj 
observe in the town of Essex, a remarkable point, known to the 
French as " Rocher fendu " and to the English as " Split rock." It 
contains about an half acre of land, and rising thirty feet above 
the water, in a bold, precipitous front, is separated from the 
promontory by a fissure of ten feet in width. Its slope and 
position, has created the belief, that it has been detached from 
the adjacent headland by its own weight, and in some shock of 
nature, although it has probably been separated in the gradual 
attrition of the earth and disintegrating rocks, by the action of 
the elements. It is a striking and interesting formation. Guide 
books and some " pictorial histories " of higher pretensions, des- 
cribe an abyss of five h^^ndred feet. in depth, dividing the rock 
from the promontory. I visited it, last antumn and walked 
through the fissure, two feet above the level of the lake. 

Near Port Kendall in Chesterfield, another of these remarka- 
ble phenomena occurs, to which frequent allusion has been made. 
The outlet of several ponds upon these highlands, unite in a 
stream which forms at this place, a very superior water power, 
directly upon the margin of Lake Champlain. The water rushes 
a distance of 40 or 50 rods above the fall, through a chasm, which 
appears to have been opened by some mighty physical convulsion. 
It presents a gulf 60 or 70 feet wide, with a depth of 30 or 40 feet. 
At the extremity of this passage the stream plunges into the lak« 
over a precipice of about 40 feet.* 

• Levi Iligby, Esq. 



PART III 
NATURAL HISTORY— ANIMALS. 



Champlain, and the early explorers of tlie environs of Lake 
Champlain, allude to the abundance and variety of the game and 
wild animals found in that region. The reminiscences of the 
living, recall the prevalence, in vast numbers of these animals, 
at their first settlement of the county. Fearful legends are still 
rife of exposures of the original settlers, and their terrific encoun- 
ters with the panther, the bear and wolf. 

The moose is now occasionally discovered in the recesses of the 
interior wilderness. The panther and wolf still prowl in these 
wilds, but rarely, and by solitary indiv^iduals. The small black 
bear exists in small numbers among the fastnesses of th« 
Adirondacs, but are seldom seen in the more inhabited sections of 
the county.* The bear, wolf and fox, in the early occupaticn of 
the county, committed the most destructive depredations upon 
the flocks of the pioneers. They literally infested and occupied 
the forest, and by their great prevalence seriously retarded and 
embarrassed the introduction of sheep. The howling of wolvc^^ 
around the solitary cabins of the settlers, is described as having 
been most appalling. In the language of an aged pioneer,f " the 
deer, fifty years ago, were more abundant in our fields than sheep." 
Tenison was then the cheapest food of the settler, and at difierent 
periods, their almost exclusive dependence. A bear cub was es- 
teemed as delicate and luscious as the fattest lamb. Deer still 
abound in the interior solitudes, and are annually destroyed in 

• Two panthers and a large bear were taken in North Ella, about the time of mj examisa- 
ion of that town. 

t Mr. Leavitt, Chesterfield. 



742 [Assembly 

vast numbers, in the mere wanton and brutal instincts of slaugh- 
ter. Sometimes expelled from their retreats by the attacks of 
wolves, their ferocious foe, they appear in the older settlements, 
and in their extreme terror, occasionally dash into a village ; but 
only to find man as merciless as the savage beast. Thus, torn and 
devoured by wolves ; chased by dogs, and overtaken when their 
sharp and tiny hoofs penetrate the crust of snows, and they help- 
lessly flounder in their liepths ; hunted by torch light, and pur- 
sued in the lakes and ponds of their native wilds, this beautiful, 
timid and gentle creature, now affording so much beauty and an- 
imation to these forests, and such luxury to the table of even our 
metropolitan epicures, must scon be totally extirpated. 

The beaver was found in great abundance throughout the re- 
gion, bv the first occupants. They no longer exist, it is believed, 
in the territory of Essex county. The skeleton of probably the 
last patriarch of the race is still preserved. Numerous vestiges 
exist of their former habitations. The evidences remain through- 
out the county, of their wonderful architectural works, and of the 
amazing sagacity that approached human intelligence. The skill 
with which the beaver selected the position of his dam, the untir- 
ing industry and great vigor exhibited in prosecuting his work, 
the exactness of its capacity to the required object, and the great 
beauty of its structure, excite the deepest admiration and w^onder. 
The water obstructed by these dams flowed over extensive flats, de- 
stroying the trees and vegetation which had flourished upon them. 
These were carefully removed by the beaver, as they decayed, leav- 
ino- the surface as clear and unobstructed as if the work had been 
accomplished by the nicest labor of human industry. These clear- 
ings were ultimately occupied by a spontaneous growth of natural 
grasses. The " Beaver Meadows" of the county, formed by this 
process, were of incalculable benefit to the early settlers, prepar- 
ing for many of them, in advance, an abundant supply of excel- 
lent fodder. 

The hunter who penetrates deeply into the solitudes, beyond 
the western limits of this county, still finds the moose in consider- 
able abundanse.* Individuals occasionally appear among the 

•A. Ralph. 



Ko. 112.] 743 

Adirondacs. A solitary bull or a cow and calf, usually selects ia 
autumn a hill or spur of mountains, where abounds the mountain 
ash and striped maple, his choicest food. Here lie hibernates in 
•what the hunter terms his " yard." As the snows deepen, he in- 
dustriously keeps open the paths leading to the various sections 
of his doniaii;^. He uniformly tiaverses the same route, and thus 
preserves a beaten track in the deepest snows of winter. In this 
seclusion he passes the season, feeding upon the tender branches 
of his favorite shrubs, until spring returns, and the voice of nature 
invokes him to seek new companions. During the summer they 
frequent the vicinity of ponds and marshes, feeding upon aquatic 
plants. The roots of the pond lily they greedily devour. 

The pursuit of the moose, is among the most animating and at- 
tractive sports of the huntsman. The senses of this animal are 
supposed to be peculiarly acute. He discovers afar off' the ap- 
proach of danger, and breaks from his covert .and flies with incre ] 
dible celerity. His stately horns thrown back upon his shoul- 
ders, his nose projecting, and with the gate and action of a fast 
trotting horse, he dashes amid tlie forests, over mountains and 
through morasses, with a speed tliat defies pursuit, unless the 
crust of snow ji Ids to his enormous bulk, when he is readily 
overtaken. Although naturally a timid animal, he then turns at 
bay, and with immense power and indomitable courage faces his 
foes, and woe betide the hunter or drg who falls within the reach 
of his horns, or the trampling of his hoofs. He is then the very 
symbol of savage ferocity. His aspect is terrific ; his eyes glare, 
his mane erect, every hair, long and protruding, seems to expand 
and become animate. His defiant roar resounds among the moun- 
tains ; he defends hi i s If to the last throe with unyielding ener- 
gy. Tlie,meat of the moose is considered a choice and rare deli- 
cacy. 

The fox and the mnskrat are abundant, and v.ith the minx and 
martin, are yet pursued for their pfhiges. The squirrel, in most 
of its varieties, exist in great numbers. Small colonies of the 
flying squirrel are found in some localities. Its singular construc- 
tion and great beauty render it an object of much interest. A 
peculiar incapacity alike for defence and escape, makes it the 



744 [AssKlttBLl 

, victim of innumerable enemies. A remarkable fact in natural 
history is observed in relation to these animals, and particularly 
of the common red squirrel. A district of country, which has 
been nearly exempt from their presence, is suddenly thronged by 
innumerable multitudes. Every tree and bush and fence appears 
alive with them, until they at once and as mysteriously dis- 
appear. This circumstance affords undoubted evidence of the 
emigration of the squirrel, but to what extent the habit prevails 
is unknown. Popular opinion assumes, that they traverse Lake 
Champlain in these progresses. The autumn of 1851 afforded one 
of these periodical invasions of Essex county. It is well authen- 
ticated, that the Red squirrel was constantly seen in the widest 
parts of the lake, far out from land, swimming towards the shore, 
as if familiar with the service ; their heads above water, and their 
bushy tails erect and expanded, and apparently spread to the 
breeze. Reaching land, they stopped for a moment, and reliev- 
ing their active and vigorous little bodies from the water, by an 
energetic shake or two, they bounded into the woods, as light and 
free as if they had made no extraordinary effort. 

The prevalence of these larger animals, and the abundance of 
fish in the remote lakes, have combined to form in this region, 
and to cherish a class of men, unknown to more refined and cul- 
tivated spheres. They are not numerous, but constitute a very 
interesting, peculiar and distinctive race. Many a prototype of 
" Leather Stockings" wanders amid these mountains and lakes, 
with equal artlessuess and simplicity of character, and with the 
same bold daring and energy of spirit. They possess dwellings and 
farms, but these are subordinate interests. Their hearts and habits 
are in the wilderness ; they traverse it with almost equal facility 
by day or night, by the guidance of the sun, or enveloped in mist. 
They penetrate, alone, into the deepest recesses of the mountains, 
and in the pu' suits of this fascinating life, spend days and even 
weeks in utter solitude and seclusion. Exercising the instincts of 
the Indian, they are never bewildered in the mazes of the forest. 
Some mossy tree, a twig bent or broken months before, affords a 
certain clue to their position. They trace the game with unerring 
precision ; their rifles never fail. Their tales of conflicts with 
javage beasts, and hair-breadth escapes from forest dangers, told 



2fo. 112.] 745 

in unpretending and perfect truthfulness, and in their own pecu- 
liar style, in simple and graphic language, often exhibit incidents 
of the most thrilling and agitating scenes. Except in the savage 
warfare of Boon, the lives of these men combine the exciting and 
romantic events of his .career. 

I have attempted thus to present a faint portraiture of these deni- 
zens of a border life. Occupying the verge of civilization, the 
race of the hunter will soon be extinguished in its advance, and 
like the red man, in whose character and habits he so strongly 
participates, his trace will be lost, or he will be recalled only in 
local liistory, or shadowy reminiscences. 

Fish. — Lake Champlain embraces most ot the species of fish, 
nsually found in fresh water lakes. Several varieties, formerly 
abundant in tiiese waters, are now rarely found or have totally 
disappeared. The excellent work of Professor Thompson, com- 
prehends so minute and ample, a description of the fish of Lake 
Champlain, that I propose merely to glance at the subject. Cham- 
plain, wliose veracity, researches always vindicate, speaks of 
a remarkable fish, which many have supposed to be fabulous. 
.Alluding to other fish he continues " among the rest, theie is one 
called by the Indians " Chaousarou," of divers length. The largest 
I was informed by the people, are of eight and ten feet, I saw one 
of five feet, as thick as a thigh, with a head as big as two fists, with 
jaws two feet and a half long, and a double set of very long and 
dangerous teeth. The form of the body resembles that of the pike 
and is armed with scales, that the thrust of a poniard cannot pierce, 
ajid is of a silver grey colour. The point of the snout is like that 
of a hog."* Professor Th )mpson believes the original of this des- 
cription to have been the " Bill-fish," Lepirostrus oxyurus, a fish 
still existing in the lake, but rarely taken. Prof. Agassis appears 
to have found traces of the same fish in the upper lakes. The 
Maskaloug6, to which the fis^h of Champlain bears a slight analo- 
gy, and supposed by some naturalists to be an enormous growth 
of the pickerel, frequents some sections of the lake and often at- 
tains the weight of 30 and 40 pounds. 

The early settlers of the valley of Lake Champlain, found the 
streams upon both sides filled with Salmon. They were very 

* DocomcnUrj Historj. 



746 [Assembly 

large, and among the most delicate and luscious of all fish. At 
that period they were abundant, and so powerful and bold, as to 
be taken with great ease and in immense quantities. A record 
exists of 500 having been killed in the Boquet in one afternoon, 
and as late as 1823, about 1500 lbs. of salmon were taken by a 
single haul of a seine, near Port Kendall.* They have been 
occasionally found within the last twenty years, in some of the 
most rapid streams, but have now totally disappeared. The 
secluded haunts they loved, have been invaded j dams have im- 
peded their wonted routes ; the filth of occupied streams, has dis- 
turbed their cleanly habits, or the clangor of steam boats and 
machinery has alarmed their fears. Each of these causes, is as- 
signed as a circumstance that has deprived the country of an 
important article of food and a choice luxury. The subject is 
not unworthy the inquiry and investigation of tlie philosopher of 
nature. 

As the Salmon have disappeared' other fish of excellent qualities, 
have become more abundant. The lake shad, identical it is be- 
lieved with the white-fish of Michigan, are yearly becoming more 
common in Lake Champlain and in some parts of it, are already 
taken by seines in large quantities. When the habits and haunts 
of this fish are better understood, their pursuit will probably be- 
come an important branch of industry. 

In early spring, when the rising water has forined an open space 
between the shore and the ice, the shad and indeed all the larger fish 
of the lake are pursued with keen avidity, with the spear and by 
torchlight. This very exciting and pleasant sport occurs in the sea- 
son, in which the fish seek the t'Stuaries and the shallow water along 
the shores. In u calm niglit (and if dark more certain the success,) 
and in silence, the boat impt;lled by a single paddle glides quietly 
through the water, bearing an iron jack at the bow, which contains 
a bright flame, shedding an illumination far in a.^vance. -Tlie spears- 
man stands behind the light, with full opportunity of seeing the 
fish, which sleeping quiatly or attracted by the gleamings of the fire, 
lies unconscious of danger and is easily approached and speared. 
The whole coui se of tlie lake at this season, presents a most bril- 
liant and animated aspect, illuminated and glowing with hundreds 

^ "Levi Higby, Esq, 



No. 112.1 747 

of these fires. The smelt, a small but very fine fish, of marine 
origin and migratory habits, have recently appeared In the lake 
and are taken through the ice in great quantities. A species of 
sturgeon of a considerable size, is frequently caught in seines. 
Varieties of the bass and pike, are among the most valuable fish, 
and are taken in great numbers. Many of the lake fish are highly 
esteemed, and secured in ice, are exported by railroads to the 
southern cities and Avalering places, where they command exor- 
bitant prices. 

Tlie fisheries of Lake Champlain, and the interior waters of its 
vicinity, fostered by the existing facilities of access to markets, 
and wJiich will continually augment, must rapidly acquire great 
importance and value. The fish of the lake afforded to the early 
settlers of the valley, (who were often in their isolated position, 
subjected to seiious destitution,) an easy and reliable resource. 

Trolling is a favorite and highly exciting sport of the amateur 
fishermen upon these waters. This mode is adapted to deep wa- 
ter, and is conducted by towing the line some distance behind 
the boat, in a sea somewhat agitated. Fish, of extraordinary di- 
mension?, are thus frequently taken in large numlsers. 

Fishing by seines and nets, is much and successfully used in 
the lakes and more important streams. Several varieties of the 
most delicate and choice trout, occur in great profusion, in most 
of the innumerable ponds and lakes which are scattered among 
the forests and moun'ains of the interior. The salmon trout is 
peculiarly distinguished for the great size it attains, and the su- 
perior delicacy and excellence of its qualities. 

No country offers to the sportsman more delightful and diversi- 
fied attractions, than this region uf lakes and ponds. It is deeply 
to be deplored, that the same barbarous and ruthless improvi- 
dence that is depopulating, with such rapidity, tlie forests of deer, 
is hastening the extinction of the trout in these Avaters. They 
are not only puisued in utter wantonuf ss, and in the passion of 
destruction at the legitimate seasons, but they are mercilessly fol- 
lowed by the net, the fly and t!ie spear, to their spawning bed, 
where, in the extinction of one life, the embiyo of millions is 



748 [ASSKMBLY 

annihilated. Laws are plenary in their stringency and severity, 
but are not adequately enforced. Even now, in many lakes the 
most exposed to such ravages, these JBsh are nearly extirpated. 

The deep injury wliich results from this bi^rbarism, is partially 
remedied, by the introduction, into several of these lakes, of 
other varieties of fish, more prolific in their nature or less exposed 
by their cautious habits, to these depredations. The pickerel of 
Lake Champlain, ranks among the inferior classes of the fish of 
that lake ; but when transferred to the cold and clear spring 
waters of the mountain lakes, and to the indulgence of novel and 
abundant food, its whole properties become changed. It is then 
as hard fleshed and liigh flavored, and almost as delicate as the 
salmon trout. By their vast fecundity and rapid growth, they 
throng in an incredibly short period, the waters into which they 
are introduced, and every contiguous stream. 

A striking and very cnridus difference occurs in the character 
of the fish occupying lakes which lie in dose proximity. One 
body of water, in its vprimi live condition, is filled to exuberance 
with the choicest trout ; whilst another, situated in the same lofiy 
valley, fed by the same mountain springs, and mingling its waters 
in the same stream with the former, is destitute of every variety of 
fish, except the hardier and coarser kinds. At periods, when these 
latter lakes are extremely low, myriads ot the dead bodies of the 
fish which occupy them, are found floating upon the surface of 
the water. These facts, well established, attracted my attention 
as interesting in the physiology of these creatures, and au impor- 
tant feature in Natural History. The result of my examinations 
of the subject, is conclusive to my mind, that this effect is pro- 
duced by foreign and noxious substances impregnating the waters. 
On inspection, I discovered in every instance, where the phe- 
nomenon occurs, the presence of native copperas, other sulphates, 
and incidentally arsenic largely developed in deposits within the 
surging of the water, or in its immediate vicinity. 

Forests. — The forest of this region afforded to the early settler 
a ready and available occupation, and it still remains a most im- 
portant element in the business and prosperity of the country. 
When the wilderness was penetrated, and the forest fell before 



V 



No. 112.] 749 

the woodman's axe, in most parts of the country, he collected the 
bodies of the trees into log heaps, reduced them to ashes, and 
with the simple chemistry of '/he woods, and in the rude labora- 
tory that necessity had invented, manufactured them into pot- 
ashes. This commodity commanded a prompt and high price in 
the Canadian markets, and was received by the local merchant 
in exchange for merchandise and provisions required by the set- 
tler. 

The beafefty and magnificence of the forests upon the islands 
and shores of Lake Champlain, excited the admiration of its dis- 
coverer. His description of the scenery in this particular, evinces 
the singular accuracy which characterises his entire work. He 
speaks of " the quantity of vines^ handsomer than any I ever 
saw." The wild grape is still found upon these islands, and upon 
the mainland, in the greatest profusion, and in numerous varie- 
ties of color and flavor. They spread their tendrils far and wide, 
*often overtopping the loftiest trees in their luxuriance and beauty, 
and forming barriers in their tangled branches, impervious to 
man or beast. In the month of July, when Cham})lain first visi- 
ted the lake, he could only see and admire the splendor of the 
vegetable growth, without being able to judge of the quality of 
the fruit. Amid the numerous varieties of the grape, indigenous 
to this district, inv-estigation would, doubtless, detect species, from 
which skilful culture might produce fruit, equal in every desira- 
ble quality to the Isabella or Catawba. The wild plum and the 
thorn apple, grow in great profusion. They prove well adapted 
as stocks for engrafting. I saw, at Crown Point, the engrafted 
pear, flourishing in great vigor upon the latter. 

The shag bark hickory, the hazle, the butternut and the chest 
nut, now rarely found, but formerly very common, are indigenous 
to the county. The various species of the maple, birch, beech, 
elms and oaks, are all native of these woodlands, and often attain 
in the primitive forest, a magnificent growth. The white cedar 
of great beauty and size, abound in the swamps, aud often appear 
in large numbers on the uplands. I noticed them, far up on the 
acclivities of the Adirondacs, of immense proportions, but ob- 
served, and was assured that the fact was uniform, that, although 
beautiful in their exterior appearance, they were defective aud 



750 [Assembly 

hollow at the core. The red cedar was discovered at the first oc- 
cupation of the country, but is now nearly extirpated. Seve- 
ral varieties of tlie maple and birches, the black walnut, the 
black cherry and butternut, ofien stately and splendid trees, are 
highly valued in the arts and manufactures, and are exported in 
considerable quantities for these purposes. Tlie Oaks (particu- 
larly the white oak,) were formerly of great importance, and 
still continue to a considerable extent, as articles of ex}'ortation, 
at one period, to Canada, but now to the southern markets. The 
larch or hackmatack," is abundant and highly valuable. This 
timber, with the cedar and oak, afford most excellent material in 
ship building. The Juniper, flourishes in great abundiUice in 
many sections of the county, indicating however by its presence 
a thin and sterile soil. It spreads, a few inches elevated above 
the earth, a thick and perfect umbel, often several feet in diame- 
ter, mantled by a deep and rich green foliage. Standing in soli- 
tary plants or in clusters, it imparts an unique and h'ghly orna- 
mental feature to the scenery. 

The product of wood, in the primitive and vigorous forest, is 
vast J upon exuberant soils, often exceeding one hundred coids to 
the acre, and among the rocks and broken acclivities, sel- 
dom yielding less than twenty cords. Within an area of se- 
veral miles around inanufacturing works, the value of the 
wood, standing, ranges from twentj'-five cents to one dol- 
lar and a quarter the cord, controlled in its price by its quality 
and position. This estimate refers to localities where the ad- 
vantages of transportation authorise ihe erection of manufactories, 
and not to regions more remote and inaccessible. Such districts 
are happily rare in the county, and are rapidly diminishing before 
the progress of improving facilities of intercourse. The great in- 
crease of steamers upon Lake Champlain, in addition to the con- 
sumption of the manufactories, has immensely augmented tlie de- 
mand of wood. The fuel for steamboats, formerly required, em- 
braced evergreen timber alone, it now extends to every variety of 
wood. The cutting and preparing steamboat wood affords con- 
stant and useful occupation to thS- laboring classes during ihe win- 
ter, in the vicinity of the lake, and profitably emj^loys at home 
the teams of the neighboring farmers, during the same season, in 



No. 112.] 751 

transporting it to the deposits on the shores of the lake. A large 
amount of funds is thus annually diffused through all classes of 
the community by tlie labors of usually an unpropitious and idle 
season. The quantity of Avood in Fssex county, consumed for 
manufacturing purposes, is immense, and can only be computed 
fey a rough approximation. It probably should be estimated by 
hundreds of thousands of cords. In extensive districts of the 
county where the wood has been cut exclusively for coaling, and 
the land is not required for agdcultural pursuits, a second spon- 
taneous growth rapidly shoots up, soon mantling the earth with a 
luxuriant product, wddch in the term of fifteen or twenty years, 
yields a heavy burthen of w;ood and timber. This growth rarely 
contains plants of the original forest, but is usually composed of 
trees of a totally dissimilar character. Pine is usually succeeded 
by hardwood, and the site of a forest of the latter is occupied by 
evergreens. Different sections of the county produce in this aspect, 
irregular and various results. The aspen, yellow poplar, white 
birch, and oaks, generally succeed the pines ; but in the vicinity 
of the Adirondac Avorks, the small red cherry is almcst the exclu- 
sive second growth succeeding the stately hard wood forests. The 
dry and loamy plains contiguous to the Elba works, of a past ge- 
neration, which were cut over to supply them with fuel, are now 
clothed with forests of spruce. The latter fact is remarkable and 
worthy of reflection, as the habits and peculiarities of the spruce 
in its natural position, adapt it to a totally different soil. This 
recuperation of the woodland, which nature thus bountifully 
provides, will in connection willi the waste and broken territorj'-, 
afford, by judicious economy and management, a certain and 
permanent supply of fuel, to all the purposes of the arts for 
many ages. 

I observed in my investigations relative to this second growth, 
circumstances that excittd my attention, and which I deem enti- 
tled to consideration. In the fastnesses of the Adirondacs I per- 
ceived entire groves of the young cherry trees, loaded with a 
black excrescence, similar in appearance to the disease which has 
been so destructive in our plum orchards. In other sections of 
the county, I noticed large tracts of the black cherry and birch, 
dead and dying, and presenting in their blackened and blasted 



752 [Assembly 

bark, the aspect of the pear and apple trees which had been visi- 
ted by the destroying fire blight. If, as I conjecture, these dis- 
eases are identical with those known to our gardens, (their results 
are certainly very analogous,) does not the fact open an interest- 
ing field for the researches of science, as to their origin, causes, 
and operations. 

The chestnut groves, which so beautifully adorn some of the 
northern towns of Warren county, approach, but do not enter the 
confines of Essex. The sweet walnut is, however, widely scat- 
tered over various sections of the county, and flourishes in great 
profusion and beauty, in the lovely tract that spreads from the 
cliffs of Lfike George to Champlain. When the early frosts of au- 
tumn have opened the husks, and their luscious treasures are 
poured upon the earth, the jocund, sjiouting, joyous groups of 
nutting children, which gather beneath their boughs, communi- 
cate to the landscape a most primitive and pastoral scene. 

Spreading from the warm soil that borders Champlain, to the 
Alpine summits of the Adirondacs, where the rigors of the frigid 
zone are stamped upon the climate, the soil ot Essex county, 
naturally imparts a great diversity to its botanical productions. 
Thers is nothing however, so distinct or novel, as necessarily to 
require notice in a work of this character. The subject of the 
natural grasses and nutritive plants, I propose to discuss in a sub- 
sequent department of this report. The same remark applies to 
the ornithology and entomology of the county. Tlie birds, insects, 
worms and bugs are those familiar to the public mind, to the 
world of science and the practical farmer and gardener. 

Reptiles — The rattle-snake, formerly infested several localities 
in this county, in horrid profusion. In the early stages of its set- 
tlement, they were seen in the vicinity of their dens, basking in 
groups upon the rocks, in the sun beams. A mountain was point- 
ed out to me, near Lake George, where the legend says, eight 
hundred were killed in one season. These reptiles are now al- 
most extirpated. No other snake of a venomous character is 
found in the county. 



No. 112. j 753 

CLIMATE AND WINDS. 

Grave senators, who have pronounced northern New-York, 
the Siberian district of America, exhibit more fancy on the 
subject, than intelligence. No climate is more salubrious, or 
better calculated to secure enjoyment and comfort to man. 
The atmosphere clear, elastic and invigorating, bears no mi- 
asmatic exhalations. The winters of this climate are often 
severe but equable. The summers are warm, and yield a rapid 
impulse to vegetation, that promotes an early maturity. The heat 
of summer is modified, by the cool and exhilarating breezes of the 
lakes and mountains. A signal difference occurs in the climate 
and seasons of the territory bordering upon the shores of Lake 
Champlain and that of a few miles in the interior- The influence 
of that large expanse of fresh water mitigates equally the rigors of 
the winter and the heats of summer. The territory bordering' 
upon the lake has usually an exemption of at least two weeks 
from the late frosts of the spring and the early frosts of autumn, 
to which the interior is exposed. The fact is well authenticated, 
although its philosophy may not be so readily explained, that 
premature frosts often occur in the meridian of Pennsylvania, 
when the valleys of Essex county are totally free from its effects. 
The snow accumulates among the mountains and in the higher 
valleys to the depth of several feet, although in most parts of the 
county, they are less abundant, than in the western or central 
sections of the State: they remain however longer upon the earth. 
An excess of snow is a rare event, although the want of it often 
embarrasses the operations of business. 

The absence of snow as well as rain is peculiar to the valley of 
the Au Sable, and in many seasons, essentially affects its agricul- 
tural and manufacturing prosperity. No part of the country is 
visited more frequently by protracted and blighting droughts than 
this district. The circumstance is universally remarked, and may 
satisfactorily be imputed to the influence of the mountains and 
lake, upon the atmospheric currents. 

These aerial currents governed by much the same laws, which 
control the course of all fluids, are involved in eddies created by 
the gorges and ravines of the mountains, are arrested by their airy 

tAg. Tr. »53.] X X 



754 [Assembly 

summits, and often receive a direction from these causes. Clouds 
not unfreqiientlj, are perceived approaching the valleys, bearing 
rain and portentous of thunder and lightning, when in a moment 
their course is changed, and skimming along the acclivities of the 
mountains, they pour upon them their contents. Hence, in a dry- 
season like the last, when nature elsewhere is parched and seared, 
the slopes of these mountains smile in verdaut and luxuriant 
beauty. The movement of these atmospheric streams, witnessed 
from the valleys embosomed by lofty mountains, are often beau- 
tiful and sublime exhibitions. 

A valued correspondent* furnishes me with several highly in- 
teresting facts, illustrative of this subject. The amphitheater of 
mountains that nearly surround North Elba, is imperfect on the 
western side, from whence the plateau spreads far into the interior. 
Volumes of clouds often advance from that direction, until entering 
within the influence of these currents, they suddenly divide, the 
dissevered masses passing to the north and south, along the brows 
of the respective mountains. He describes a scene of singular 
grandeur and sublimity, that occured at North Elba in 1847, and 
strikingly elucidates this remarkable influence. On a still and sul- 
try evening of summer, when not a breeze moved the leaf, a dark 
and heavy bank of clouds, suddenly appeared in the western 
horizon and gradually approaching, menaced an immediate and 
violent storm. Whilst gazing upon the advance of the impending 
tempest, he beheld in a moment the masses rent asunder. One col- 
umn rushed along the crest of Whiteface, and the other amid 
pealings of thunder and torrents of rain, careered over the lofty 
summits of the Adirondacs, whilst in the valley, an instant before 
threatened by the tornado, all was serene and calm, and the moon 
and stars beamed softly upon it, through the riven canopy of black 
and flashing clouds. I introduce these impressive incidents to 
illustrate the powerful agency which is exerted on the elements, 
by these lofty pinnacles. 

The winds in the vicinity of Lake Champlain are materially 
modified in their direction by its influence. 

■ •T.L.Nash. 



No. 112.] 755 

The Aurora borealis, displayed in the longitude of Essex 
county in transcendant splendor and effulgence, exerts, it is be- 
lieved, at times a decisive eifect upcn the course and character of 
the winds. The exhibition of that plienomenon, is generally if 
not uniformly succeeded by a prevalence of southerly winds. 
The duration and severity of the one seems proportionate to. the 
intensify and expansion of the other. May not this fact shed some 
light on tlie theories connected with this meteor? An hypothesis 
of Dr. Franklin, now well sustained, supposes that the desolating 
tornadoes of the tropics are often produced, by the air rushing into 
a vacuum, created by the sudden dissolution of masses of clouds, 
through some electric action. May not the Aurora be formed by 
an electric influence, which deranging the equilibrium of the at- 
mosphere, in the Arctic region, induces the irruption of this 
column of air from the south. The prevalent winds of this region, 
are south, south-west and north-west. 

The climate of northern New-York, has, since its discovery, 
gradually, but very decidedly ameliorated. Champlain speaks 
of observing the mountains of Vermont, capped with snow, in 
August. The improvements which have removed the forests, and 
exposed the earth to the action of the sun and atmosphere, have 
eminently tended to promote this amelioration. The winters are 
pronounced by aged settlers to be at this time, far less rigorous 
and protracted, than in their early recollections of the country. 
The depth of snow and the thickness of ice upon Lake Champlain, 
are progressively diminishing. The rains are now more equally 
diffused through the mild seasons, and not falling as formerly in 
periodical and severe tempe'sts.* The autumnal season is the 
glory of this climate,oftenlingering late into November, and cloth- 
ing the forests with its gorgeous and brilliant robes. It is to all 
nature the most delightful and joyous period of the year, fraught 
with blessings and pleasure, and bearing the inspirations of health 
and vigor. 

Hardy stock is often turned olf by the 1st of April, although the 
20th of that month may be regarded as the average period when 
grazing may be relied upon. The commencement of foddering, 

•John Hoffnagle, Esq. 



756 [Assembly 

usually ranges with the varieties of stock, from the 15th of No- 
vember to Christmas. Plowing, commences in a series of years, 
about the middle of April, and usually terminates in November, al- 
though in some seasons it is extended into the last days of the year. 

In order to present some illustrations of the climate and seasons, 
I avail myself of the courtesy of Robert Clark Esq. and the Rev.' 
Zadock Thompson, the eminent Professor of Natural History In 
the Vermont university. Mr. Clark has favored me with a copy 
of a meteorological table kept by himself at the Adirondac works, 
for a term of six months in 1852. Professor Thompson, has also 
supplied me with a copy of one kept by him during the same pe- 
riod at Burlington, Vermont. The former was made at the highest 
cultivated point, probably in the State, and the latter at an eleva- 
tion of about 350 feet above tide water. They afford interesting and 
useful means of enquiry and comparison. The notes from the diary 
of Mr. Clark, exhibit the character of the climate, and the progress 
of the seasons in that elevated position. It is proper to remark 
that the spring of '52 was unusually cold, backward and incle- 
ment. 



No. 112.] 



757 



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No. 112.] 765 

REMARK AND RECORD— AT THE ADIRONDAC WORKS. 

BY ROBERT CLARK. 
1852. 

March 1. The instruments from which the observations — the 
monthly results of which I here present you — were 
made, are the property of the Smithsonian Institu- 
tion, of Washington. The thermometer, No. 510, 
and the barometer, No. 360, botli made by Jas. Green, 
of New-York. The observations were made at the 
hours of 6 A. M., and 2 and 10 P. M., as established 
by that institution. 

The depth of snow here has averaged nearly four feet 
all winter, and on some hills of hard wood, reached 
six and seven feet in depth. It has been reduced at 
times to a foot, but was immediately piled up again 
by successive storms. 

In testing the tliermometer left by Prof. A. Guyot (No. 
160, by Jas. Green), on Jan'y 5tli it was broken. I 
sent down to Mr. Green, and on the 9th Feb'y re- 
ceived a new one similar to it. No. 510. The morn- 
ing of the 18th Feb'y was the coldest we have had 
since then : the thermometer then stood at 30° be- 
low zero. The morning of the 16th Jan'y, however, 
was the coldest this winter ; not having the thermome- 
ter at that time, I cannot tell how low it stood, but 
would judge about 34*^ below zero. 

Birds. — There have been none of the cross bills [Curvi- 
rostra Americana of Wilson,) here this winter; 
though last winter they were innumerable, and were 
here till the end of May. 

There has also been very few of the snow bird (Frin- 
gilia Iludsonia of Wilson,) here this winter. 

11. Saw a crow flying northward. Aurora borealis visible. 

12. A flock of small birds flew over the village to the 

north. 
20. A large number of these birds are now in the village; 

I shot one, and found it to be the Snow Bunting 

{Emheriza JVivalis of Wilson). 



766 [Assembly 

March 31. Thirty-six and a lialf inches of snow has fallen this 
month. There is now in the woods a little over two 
feet of snow, and nearly as much in the clearings. 
On the 1st April last year, the sno'w was entirely off 
the roads, and there was but little in the woods. 

April 26. First swallows seen. 

30. There has been but little " sugar " weather this month. 
On the Sth, 9th, 10th and 11th, sap ran very slowly 
and but little sugar was made ; from 25th to 28th, 
however, it ran well. There has twenty-live £(nd a 
half inches of snow fallen this month j there is still 
in the woods about two feet, though but little in the 
clearings. Commenced on 26th to pile stumps that 
were pulled last fall ; this is the only farm work 
done this month. 

May 2. Cultivated violet in flower. 

3. Sleighing is finished to-day ; we have had 177 days of 
sleighing this last winter, uninterrupted except by 
fresh storms. An unusually long winter. 

7. Spring freshet commenced to-day from the melting of 

the snows, and without rain. 
The frogs " first concert of the season "' came off to-day, 
but proved almost a total failure. 

8. Aurora borealis. 

9. First appearance of King-fishers. The wild yellow 

violet in flower. The woods are almost entirely clear 
of snow, except in sheltered situations and on the 
mountains. 

10. Commenced sowing oats. 

1 1 . Lakes Jimmy, Sally and Mary open to-day ; Lake Sand- 

ford open in narrow parts, but the body of the lake 
is still closed. 

13. Sowing wheat and planting potatoes. 

14. Lakes Sandford and Henderson open, they opened last 

year on 24th April. 
18. Aurora borealis. 
June 11. New snow on the mountains this morning. 
July 19. A few potato tops killed by frost in sheltered spots. 



No. 112.J 767 

July 26. Commenced haying. 

Aug 10. Found ice at the Indian Pass, in the « Ice House," a lit- 
tle cave formed by the debris of the Pass. Aurora 
borealis to-night. 

26. Commenced harvesting oats. 
^Sept. 6. Cradling wheat. ' 

17. All the potatoes killed by frost. 

27. Commenced digging potatoes. 

I extract the annexed tables from Thompson's History of Ver- 
mont, and although derived from observations taken at Burling- 
ton, Vermont, they equally illustrate the advent and progress of 
the seasons on the western shore of the lake. 



768 



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[Ag. Tr. '53.] 



Y Y 



770 



[Assembly 



The following table, also derived from Thomp?on's " Vermont," 
ooufains the time of the opening and closing the broad lake oppo- 
site Burlington, and when the steamboats stopped their regular 
trips through the lake from Whitehall to St. Johns, for several 
years. 



YEAR. 



1816,. 
1817,. 
1818,. 
1819,. 

1820,. 

1821,. 
1822,. 
1823,. 
1824,. 
1825,. 
1826,. 
1827,. 
1828,. 
1829,. 
1831,. 
1832,. 
1833,. 
1834,. 

1835,. 

1836,. 
1837,. 
1838,. 
1839,. 
184U,. 
1841,. 
1842, 



Lake Champlain 
closed. 



Feb'y 


9, 


Jan'y 


29, 


Feb'y 


2, 


March 4, 


Feb'y 


3, 


March 


8, 


Jan'y 


15, 




24, 


Feb'y 


7, 


Jan'y 


22, 


Feb'y 


9, 




1, 


Jan'y 


21, 


not clos'd 


Jan'y 


31, 


Feb'y 


6, 




o 




13, 


Jan'y 


10, 


Feb'y 


7, 


Jan'y 


27, 




15, 


Feb'y 


2, 


Jan'y 


25, 




25, 


Feb'y 


18, 



Lake Champlain 
.opened. 



not clos'd 



April 16, 
15, 

17, 

( Feb'y — , 
I Mar. 12, 
April 21, 
Mar. 30, 
April 5, 
Feb'y 11, 

Mar. 24, 
'^ 1 

ol, 

April — , 

April 17, 

20, 
( Jan'y 22, 
\ April 12. 

21, 
26, 
13, 

6, 
Feb'y 20, 
April 19, 



Line steamboats 
commenced run- 
ning. 



Line steamboata 
stopped. 



April 25, 



April 15, 



April 6, 

11, 
23, 

8, 
4, 

21 

25, 
29, 
19, 
11, 
11, 
28, 

13, 



Dec. 5, 

^ov. 29, 

29 
Dec. 10, 

Nov. 26, 
28, 

Dec. 1, 



PART IV. 
MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY. 



The field of researches presented by Essex county, in these de- 
partments, is so expanded and rich, that the labor of years would 
be required for its competent examination. Neither the peculiar 
duties of my survey, nor the opportunities alfurded me, have al- 
lowed more than a rapid and superficial investigation of these 
highly important aspects. A strong and universal public senti- 
ment of regret and disappointment pervades the county, ihat 
the public munificence designed to explore and reveal these re- 
sources, has been so sparingly extended to a region, richer, proba- 
bly, in its mineralogy, and more interesting in its geological aF- 
rangements than any section of the State, if not all the other 
parts combined. Few and insignificant specimens have illustra- 
ted, in the geological rooms, the vast and diversified elements of 
its natural structure and resources. More imperative eng;ige- 
ments of those, to whom this duty has been confided, have doubt- 
less produced results so adverse to the interests of the county. 

The mineral wealth of Essex county is not limited to iron ore, 
but comprehends numerous other minerals of great interest and 
value. Iron, however, in immense deposits, constitutes its pre- 
dominant resource. In many sections of the county, it forms the 
basis of the entire structure of the earth, and occurs not nierely 
in veins, nor even masses, but in strata which rise into mountains. 
The surface is often strewn with " holders " of Iron ore, weighing 
from a few pounds to many tons, as ordinary rocks are scattered 
in other districts. The Adirondac district is pre-eminent in this 
county, and is probably surpassed in no region in the extent of 
its deposits of iron, and the higher qualities and varied properties 



772 [Assembly 

of its ores. The ores seem to concentrate in the vicinity of the 
village of Adirondac, and here literally constitute the formation. 
The cellars of their dwellings, in many instances are excavated in 
the massive beds. 

The discovery of a mineral deposit, extensive and valuable, aS 
the Adirondac Iron District, is an event so rare and important, 
that it seems appropriate in a work of this character, to perpetu- 
ate its minute history.* An Indinn approached the late David 
Henderson, Esq., of Jersey city, in the year 1826, whilst standing 
near the Elba iron works, and taking from beneath his blanket 
a piece of iron ore, he presented it to Mr. H. with the inquiry 
expressed in his imperfect English, "you want to see 'um 
ore, me fine plenty — all same." When asked where it came 
from, he pointed towards the south-west, and explained " me 
hunt beaver all 'lone, and fine 'um, where water run over iron 
dam." The Indian proved to be a brave of the St. Francis tribe, 
honest, quiet and intelligent, who spent the summers in hunting 
amid the wilds of the Adirondacs. An exploring party was prompt- 
ly arranged, who submitting themselves to the guidance of the In- 
dian plunged into the pathless forest. The first night they made 
their bivouac beneath the giant walls of the Indian Pass. The 
next day they reached the scite of the present works, and there 
saw the strange spectacle described by the brave; the actual flow 
of the river over an iron dam, created by a ledge of ore, which 
formed a barrier across the stream. The reconnoisance revealed 
to their astonished view, various and immense deposits of ore, 
equal almost to the demands of the world for ages. A glance disclos- 
ed the combination in that secluded spot of all the ingredients, and 
every facility for the most extensive manufacture of iron, in all 
fts departments. In close proximity existed, an illimitable supply 
of ore, boundless forests of hard wood, and an abundant water 
power. The remote position of the locality formed the chief 
impediment to the scheme which was adopted at once by 
the intelligent explorers. Not deterred by this consideration, 
they immediately secured the purchase of an extended tract, em- 
bracing the entire iron district. A road was soon constructed to 
the scite, with slight aid from the State, at a great expense through 

*A. Ralph, Esq. 



No. 112.] 773 

a dense, uninterrupted forest of thirty miles in length. The pnrj)ore 
was pursued with untiring energy and strong enthusiasm, by the 
proprietors, Archibald Mclntyre, Archibald Robertson and David 
Henderson, Esqrs. A settlement was soon commenced and an ex- 
perimental furnace constructed. Iron was produc-d, tf rare and 
valuable qualities, rivaling almost in toughness and strength, the 
best products of the Swedish furnaces. A small blast furnace 
Was soon afterwards erected, together with several forge fir^s and 
a puddling furnace. Bar iron has been more recently fabricated 
to a considerable extent. Iron, produced from this ore has proved 
admirably adapted to the manufacture of steel, and has been ex- 
tensively used for that purpose by the steel works of the Adiron- 
dac Company at Jersey city. (See J. Delafield's address, page 
142, State Agr. Trans. 1851.) I need only refer in addition to 
the report of Mr. Johnson which exhibits the triumphant disjday 
of that steel at the World's Fair. A magnificent blast furnace 
has recently been completed at the Adirondac works, of the lar- 
gest dimensions, perfect in its construction and powers and most 
judiciously adjusted in all its arrangemens. 

Numerous ore beds exist within an area of three miles, and 
nearly all are comprised within half that distrance from the works. 
They are singularly distinct in the appearance, nature and quality 
of the ores.* The " Mill-pond ore bed " is situated in so immediate 
pioximity with the furnace erected by the company, that its foun- 
dation rests upon a section of the vein. The length of this bed, 
, ascertained by the actual mensuration of Prof Emmons, is 3,1 G8 
feet, and the width 700 feet. An opening of 40 feet in depth has 
been excavated, and at that point, the ore is found more free 
from rock and richer tJian at the surface'. Its hardness is not of 
that character, which constitutes, the hard iron of the mines, nor 
does it communicate that quality to iron which it yields. It con- 
tains in common with most of the ores of this district a small per 
cent o^ titimmm^ which renders it to son.e extent refractory in the 
furnace. Slight injections of serpentine in irregular veins, crystals 
of green felspar, seams of carbonate of lime, and the common rock 
aje mingled with this ore and incidentally small particles of sul- 

* I derive much of my information relative to the history and niincrala of the Adirondacd^ 
from the valuable MSS. prepared at my request by Alex. Ralx)h and Robt. Clark, teqs. 



774 [Assembly 

phuret of iron may be traced, although too minute to injure the 
quality of the ore. This bed has afforded nearly all the ore used 
tn the furnace. 

The Sandford bed, is situated about two miles from the former 
and occupies the slope of a hill, which terminates upon Lake 
Sandford. The elevation of the bed is 600 or 800 feet above the 
lake, but is approached by a gradual and easy ascent. Ihis ore 
is less coarse than the preceding, and of a dark, black color. 
It has, when exposed in the bed almost the appearance and form 
of a stratified rock. It possesses great and unusual purity and is 
almost entirely exempt from stone. The ore may be projected 
from the bed to the lake by an inclined plain, or it may be trans- 
jported by teams loaded within the bed. The width of this vein 
i's 514 feet, and its length along the centre 1,667. At each ex- 
tremity it does not terminate, but passes beneath the rock. No 
©orrect or proximate calculation can be formed of the probable 
contents of this vast deposit. The minimum estimate, exhibits the 
Immense amount of 6,832,734 tons, which may principally be 
raised wiihout blasting. This would yield 3,000,000 tons of the 
purest iron.* Personal examination, corroborated by the opinions 
of highly practical and intelligent men, warrants the conjecture 
that this estimate is below the real amount of ore. If it were 
possible to disclose the extent of this vein as it seems to exist, the 
gum'of the aggregate could scarcely be estimated. Ores, exhibiting 
similar qualities crop out at diflerent points, along an extension 
of the same course. Oneofth^se indications presents a face of 
82 rods in length and 15 rods in width. Such facts suggest the 
conclusion, that these veins are a prolongation of the Sandford 
deposit, and that its true magnitude may embrace a distance of 
two miles and one half in length, with a proportionate width. 
Another important deposit, known as Mt. Magnet apparently forms 
die mass of an eminence directly east and fronting the village. 
This is distinguished as the " fine grained ore bed." This is very 
marked and peculiar in its characteristics. Although it is gen- 
erally firm, with grains closely cemented together, it often be- 
comes extremely friable when exposed to atmospheric influence. 
The oxydization makes it appear as if mingled with rock. On the 

•Emmons' Report. 



No. 112. j 775 

fiurfuce it has an aspect of leanness, although remarkably rich, 
free from impurities and probably of more practical value for the 
furnace than either of the preceding veins.* 

This vein is remarkably uniform and regular, and extends in 
length 5,742 feet, and in width about 70 feet.f It exhibits a strong 
appearance of stratification in the bed. The divisional seams are 
very distinct at the surface, but like those in the hyperstcne rock, 
they arc the result of a law of nature analogous, if not identical 
to the principle of crystalization.* A small vein or probably 
a branch of this bed, occurs in the same hill and is designated 
the " Crystalized ore bed." This vein is lined on the sides by a 
wall a few inches thick, formed of pure hornblende. A rare and 
peculiar formation. On the eastern slope of the same eminence, 
another vein of fine grained ore is developed, and probably of 
equal extent v/ith that already noticed. The Cheney bed, situa- 
ted about three miles west of Lake Sandford yields the finest grain- 
ed ore of the district. It occurs in gniess and differs from every 
other vein in that peculiarity.* Numerous other veins are known 
to exist in proximity to these, but have only been superficially 
explored. A supply of ores, that the consumption of centuries 
cannot exhaust, immediatelj* encompasses these works. Little 
doubt can exist that the entire district, constitutes one vast form- 
ation of ores, concealed by a narrow and slight encrustation of 
eartli and rock. I found, in the centre of the " Indian Pass," a 
specimen of ore, cloi^ely analogous to the ore of the Sandford bed. 
These ores are all varieties of the black oxide of iron, exhibiting 
tt mechanical mixture of the protoxide and peroxide of Iron.* 

I propose to deviate from ths formal arrangement of my sub- 
ject, in order to present in one group, the varied and interesting 
topics, embraced in this important district. An exhibition in one 
view, of its striking features, of its geology and mineralogy, the 
peculiar harmony and adaptation of its resources to sustain its 
great predominant interest, will enable the reader more distinctly 
to apprehend the nature, the varied capacities, and singular ad- 
vantages of this extraordinary region. When appropriate ave- 
nues, equal to its resources, shall . connect it with the marts of 

•R. Cl rk. fProf- Eiomon*. 



776 [Assembly 

commerce, the Adirondac Iron district, it is judged, is capable of 
being made, and will probably attain a position among the most 
extended and wealthiest Iron manufactories of the earth. This 
strong declaration is predicated upon the facts, that these ores, so 
singularly and distinctly varied in their properties, that they are 
adapted to the manufacture of every Iron fabric; that they are 
inexhaustible and of the easiest access ; that the stately forests 
which mantle the mountains, encircling these works, are near- 
ly as boundless as the ores, and that every material, almost es- 
sential to the manufacture, are embraced within the district. 
Clay prevails contiguous to the works, of a quality, it is believed, 
adapted to the manufacture of the required brick. Lime is abun- 
dant, and, although partially affected by native impurities, may 
be converted to the desired purposes. The hydraulic power will 
ever remain, and be always adequate to every demand. The re- 
sources of this region, will ultimately compel the construction 
of several avenues to it, which are already projected. One 
which will connect it, by an interior water communication, with 
the coal fields and furnaces of the west, will be described in a 
subsequent section of this report. Another scheme, proposes to 
unite it, by the course of the Racquette river, with the St. Law- 
rence, and a third, will form an intercourse with the Hudson, 
along the valley of the Schroon. When the thousand forge fires, 
that the wealth of this ore will one day lighten, shall illuminate 
the Adirondacs, these projects will be consummated. 

The upper works and the village of Adirondac, are situated 
upon the river, midway between Lakes Henderson and Sandfurd, 
in a narrow ravine, embosomed amid the lofty pinnacles that sur- 
round it. This neat little village realizes to the mind our ideali- 
ty of a Swiss hamlet, its lake, its river, its mountains " crowned 
with their coronal of snow.'' Lake Henderson, in exceeding 
loveliness, slumbers in quiet and beauty at the toot of the giant 
"Santonine," and is almost enveloped in a mountain screen. 
These works, by the existing circuitous road, are about fifty 
miles removed from Lake Champlain. 

A ponderous and costly dam erected by the Adirondac Corapa- 
ay, at the lower works, a distance of ten miles, throws back the 
volume of water to the very base of a new dam recently erected 



No. 112.] 777 

at the upper works, in connection with the furnace just com- 
plfcted. This fact affords striking evidence of the formation of the 
country. An excellent water commnnicafion is created by this 
improvement between the upper and lower works. At tach ex- 
tremity of the navigation, wharves, cranes, and every other appli- 
ance, are already constructed to facilitate the transportation of 
heavy commodities. A survey has established the existence of a 
practicable and cheap route for either a railroad or a plank road, 
from the lower works to the Schroon valley, a distance of only 
eighteen miles. The wants of an industrious community, and the 
exigencies of general business, must secure the construction of a 
railroad through that valley to the Hudson. When this most de- 
sirable proji'ct is accomplished, the furnaces and ore beds of the 
Adirondac district, will be separated by a land transportation of 
only eighteen miles from New- York. Private enterprize will soon 
surmount that slight impediment to a continuous communication. 
Few will anticipate the exposition, which the agricultural section 
of this report will present, of the progress in husbandry that has 
been already attained in the Adirondac territory, or the favorable 
nature of iis soil and climate to cultivation. 

The lofty group of mountains which occupy this region are 
formed almost exclusively of the hyperstene rock, which has been 
rendered somewhat familiar to the scientific world by the reports 
of the State Geologists. This rock in different proportions, is dif- 
fused through almost every section of the county. The mineral 
hyperstene from which it derives its name, is incorporated in it, 
in very minute quantities, whilst the " labradorite •' or " opales- 
cent felspar" constitutes its most conspicuous element. Although 
essentially granite, the hyperstene does not exhibit the ordinary 
appearance of that rock. Its color as revealed in the quarry is a 
smoky grey. In some quarries it is lighter, and in others it pre 
sents a strong green tinge, which forms a predominant shade. On 
the surface this rock is seamy, to so great a degree as to present 
almost an appearance of stratification ; deeper in the quarry it is 
thrown out in large and firm blocks. Its beauty is greatly en- 
hanced when lines of lighter color occur, by which it is traversed. 
Experiments have been succesfully made ih sawing and polishing 
slabs from this rock. If it yields blocks sufficiently firm.^nd con- 



778 I Assembly 

solidated for this purpose it will prove a most valuable and desi- 
rable material for the structure of the delicate and ornamental 
fabrics, to which the choicest marble is only appropriated. No 
Egyptian stone surpasses it in its beautiful and variegated 
colors, or in the brilliancy of its luster. The hyperstene is equal 
to the granite as a building material. The " Labradorite" is an 
exquisitely beautiful mineral, rivalling the plumage of the pea- 
cock in its brilliant irridescence when wet or polished, and ex- 
posed to the action of the light.* Highly opalescent specimens 
are not common, although that characteristic is partially exhibited 
in every crystal. Blue is the predominant shade, at times min- 
gled with green. The green seldom occurs alone, but is exceed- 
ingly brilliant and beautiful. Gold and bronze specimens are 
occajionally discovered, and rarely, crystals are found combining 
all these colors in a splendid irridescence. At times the crystals 
are striated, each alternate stria showing the opalescent reflection. 
Occasionally two colors alternate in the same crystal ; both are 
seldom seen in the same direction of light. The bed of the Opa- 
lescent river, which derives its name from the circumstance, 
abounds in this mineral, and when the sun shines at the cascades 
through the clear water, the whole rock seems to beam and glow 
with the rciulgence of the beautiful gems.* Bright opalescent 
specimens, polished and in settings, are highly valued in jewelry. 
This mineral was discovered by the Moravian missionaries in 
Labrador, and when originally introduced into England, com- 
manded most exorbitant prices. There are but few foreign min- 
erals enclosed in the Hyperstene rock. A small granite vein ap- 
pears, near the Adirondac village, which is from one to three feet 
wide. Some of the Felspar taken from this vein (a specimen of 
which is deposited in the Agricultural Rooms,) are peculiarly 
beautiful ; they exhibit a remarkable glittering, spangled appear- 
ance. Crystals of iron have been found in this vein, similar to 
the crystalized ore. Serpentine is also sparsely mingled in it.* 

Graphite exists in this locality, but has not been discovered 
either in sufficient extent or purity to give it value, although often 
found in very beautiful radiated nodules. It usually occurs in 

• R. Clark. 



No. 112.] 779 

small quantities at tlie juncture of the gneiss and primitive lime 
stone rocks, A small vein of Strpaitine and carbonate of lime, 
occurs in the bed of the river. Sliglit veins of Tra-p^ are nume- 
rous, and I may add, to avoid recurrence to the subject, that this 
rock is prevalent in almost every section of the county, some- 
times exhibiting extensive walls, and forming the dyke of most 
of the Iron ore beds. At Jay, lower village, it spans the river in 
a massive dam. The immense and remarkable dyke at Mt. McMar- 
tin, requires a more particular notice.* It is developed near the 
center of the mountains, rising abruptly from Avalanche Lake, 
it traverses the mountain near the summit. The trap is a sienite 
composed of hornblende, intermingled with grains of felspar and 
small portions of garnet. It is softer than hyperstene, which 
constitutes the remainder of the mountain, and has been exten- 
sively deranged by the action of the elements. A deep gorge 
has been formed by this disintegration, cutting through the moun- 
tain and exposing the whole stratum of the trap. At the en- 
trance this gorge is 100 feet wide and 150 feet deep, and gradu- 
ally decreases in both width and depth as it ascends the moun- 
tain. The trap vein may be traced upon Mt. Mclntyre, in the 
same course, but less revealed on its bare and precipitous sides. 
An immense slide nearly parallel with this dyke, has bared the 
mountain in its terriffic descent from the summit to the base, 
leaving a path of naked rock. The debris borne along in its 
course has nearly filled that part of Avalanche Lake beneath its 
track. This lake, a fountain of the Hudson, is 2,900 feet above 
its level, and is probably the most elevated body of water in the 
State. Its Cold waters are only inhabited by a small lizard. 
The gneiss rock extends south and west from Lake Sandford over 
an extensive territory, until it is surmounted by the primitive 
limestone. In some sections of the district gneiss rests upon the 
hyperstene. It is inadvertently stated in a State Geological 
Report that gneiss does not disclose itself west of North Hudson. 
It certainly exists in a large expanse in Newcomb.* I traced it 
in Minerva, and found it extensively disseminated in Jay, North 
Elba, and St. Armand. The primitive limestone rapidly disinte- 
grates and separates when exposed to the action of the elements, 

• R. Clark. 



780 [Assembly 

The Adirondac t'ompanywas originally incorporated with a ca- 
pital of $1 ,000,000. Large sums have been disbursed in the pro- 
gress of these improvements, in opening the wilderness, and in a se- 
ries of experiments upon the ores of this district. The tragic death 
of VI r. Henderson in the midst of these scenes, wliich his great en- 
ergy and spirited enterprise had tended so much to animate and 
reveal, imf^eded these efforts. The depression in the iron interest, 
and considerations of private expediency have induced a tempora- 
ry suspension of these magnificent Works. It is with profound re- 
egret that we contemplate such immense industrial capacities un- 
improved, such vast resources lying waste. Not a sound, not a 
movement of business indicates the heart of a region boundless in 
the bounties of nature. No occupation but agriculture engages 
the attention of the agents of the proprietors. Thes-e pursuits are 
conducted with great success, and' in a highly judicious and in- 
telligent system. 

Moriah Iron Districti — The tract, thus appropriately dfsun- 
guished by the State Geologist, is scarcely subordinate to the 
Adirondac di trict in the magnitude of its deposits ; equal in the 
quality of its ores, and far more eligibly situated in the present 
meiiium of access to markets. Fourteen beds are now discovered 
and partially explored.* They have all been fully tested, and 
alford ore adapted to every practical use. The Cheever mine, 
until recently owned by the Port Henry Compiiuy, has been 
opened more than forty years. It is situated about one-fuurth of 
a mile Irom Lake Champlain, and three miles north of Port 
Henry. It presents an average bseast of about 14 feet pure iron. 
Occasional p} rites occur in this ore, but not sufficient to impair 
its quality. The ores of this district are all magnetic. The ore 
of this mine separates in large blocks and is of peculiar value for 
the blast furnace. In the past summer, the pillars of iron left to 
support the enormous burthen of rock and eai th above the cham- 
ber formerly worked, yielded to the weight, and the whole mass 
was crushed together. The concussion was like an earthquake, 
rending the earth and dislocating the massive rocks for acres. 
Tite Golf Sf ^''^^ ^^^ is a large and valuable bed in the immediate 

* I am greatly indebted to J. P. Butler Esq., for an elaborate and carefully arranged de- 
Bcriplion of the ore buds of Moriah. 



No. 112.] 781 

vicinity of the Cheever mine, and very similar in the qualities of 
the ore. This bed was reached by sinking a shaft 40 feet through 
the cap rock. 

The Old Sandjord Mine is a vast deposit. It was discovered 
about thirty years since, cropping out on the brow of a hill of 
considerable elevation. It has been worked with slight inter- 
missions since its discovery, and the aggregation of the ore ex- 
ported from it is almost beyond conception. The bed seems to 
have been formed by a vast upheaval. The terrific power of the 
agency that produced it is indicated by the position of the dis- 
turbed and distorted rocks in the vicinity. This ore is stratified, 
easily drilled, and a single blast not unfrequently throws ofl' 30 
tons of pure ore; The length of one opening of this mine is 214 
feet, with a breast of ore of 82 feet. The width of this excava- 
tion averages about 30 feet. Teams may drive into this mine 
and load directly alongside of the breast. This ore yields 75 per 
cent, of iron. Large quantities of it, (and indeed most of the 
ores of this district) are transported to Pittsburgh, commanding 
at that place $11.50 per ton, where it is mixed with tlie ores of 
that region, and is held in the highest estimation. The ore of 
this mine contains the phosphate of lime, which will be noticed 
in its appropriate place. Another valuable opening of this mine 
has been excavated, exhibiting a breast of 99 feet, 66 teet in 
length, and an average depth of 25 feet. A third manifestation 
of an important character of this mine occurs in the immediate 
vicinity of the former. The "new bed" is situated about one- 
half a mile from the old Sandford bed. This mine contains the 
celebrated shot ore, and is more in requisition than any ore in 
this district. It yields 75 per cent, of pure ore. The mine has 
been excavated a length of 179 feet, with a breast of 16 feet. A 
block of pure ore, embracing all the varieties peculiar to it, has 
been taken from this mine, weighing 2,175 pounds. The '■^Bar- 
ton btiV is near the "New bed." Tlie ore is mixed with silex. 
This is esteemed a highly valuable bed. The " Old Fisha- bed " is 
in the same system, and with the " Barton bed " is probably a 
prolongation of the New bed. The ore in this and the Barton 
bed is chiefly arranged in veins. This series of ore beds is situ- 



782 [Assembly 

ated in a distance of five to eight miles of the lake. A plank 
road extends from Port Henry to the Old Sandford bed. 

The mine situated upon lots No. 23, 25 and 21, iron ore tract, 
and principally owned by Mr. Rousseau, of Troy, lies near the 
old Sandford bed, and is probably a prolongation of that deposit. 
It was opened in 1846, and is distinctly manifested over an area 
of two and a half acres. This mine occurs on the side of a hill, 
nearly at the same elevation as the Sandford bed. " It would be 
difficult," Mr. Butler writes, " to obtain an approximation to the 
quantity of ore in this single deposit, without estimating the con- 
tents of the entire hill." Extensive explgrations fortify this 
opinion. The first opening was made by sinking a shaft directly 
into the ore to the depth of sixty- five or seventy feet, and from 
thence blasting laterally. A tunnel was subsequently construct- 
ed horizontally through the cap rock from a lower point on the 
hillside, until it reached the shaft. The design of this work, 
was to render the ore accessible without incurring the expense of 
removing the earth. It is believed, however, that the extreme 
stratified character of the ore will render this impracticable, and 
that the mine must be uncovered to make it fully available. This 
mine, and several others in the district, are drained by a siphon.* 

The Butler Sf Spear bed lies about 1 i mile from the lake. The 
ore is a magnetic oxide, impressed wtth a hematite type. The 
vein has been traced by a magnet nearly one-half a mile. It 
has been opened about ten rods in length, and about twenty feet 
in depth, presenting a breast of nine feet, widening as it descends. 
This ore is very peculiar and of great value from its malleability 
and toughness. It is mixed with'silex and carbonate of lime; 
requires separating, but works freely and reduces lapidly in a 
common forge fire. The bed was discovered in 1848. Its first 
analysis was made at my request by Proftssor Salisbury, and pre- 
sents the following results. The table also exhibits an analysis 
of a hematite ore from the same locality. 

• J. p. Butler, Eaci, 



No. 124. 

Hematite, 
Motiah. 

76.06 


No. 126. 

Butler's 
Magnetic ore. 

56.53 


No. 126. 

Same after ex- 
josuro to at- 
mosphere. 

49.11 




28.49 


21.02 


22.82 


13.81 


27.14 


1.08 


1.02 


1.43 






1.21 



No. 112.] 783 



Peroxide of iron, 

Protoxide of iron, 

Silica, 

Alumina, 

Carbonate of lime, 

99.96 99.85 99.91 

Percentage of pure iron in 

the per and protoxides, . 52 . 741 6 1 . 202 50.289 

Percentage of oxygen in 

the per and protoxides, 23.319 23.818 19.841 

Prof. Salisbury makes the following practical and judicious 
suggestions: " Nos. 125 and 126 should be well roasted before 
placing them in the furnace for reduction. The roasting should 
be carried on at a temperature below the fusing point of the ore. 
The magnetic ore melts into a slag at a cherry red heat. Care 
should be taken not to reduce the ore to a slag while roasting, as 
this slag is useless and even injurious in the reducing furnace. 
The heat should be simply high enough to peroxidize the prot- 
oxide, and dissipate volatile vapor. As ageneral rule, the higher 
the state of oxydation,,the more readily is the ore reduced. The 
protoxide is very difficult of reduction. After the ore is properly 
washed, it should be placed in a blast furnace, with a strong ba^e, 
as lime, for a tlux This base will act beneficially in combining 
with silica and alumina, and thus prevent the formation of sili- 
cates and aluminates of iron." 

The " Hall bed,"_or " 75," as it is usually designated from the 
number of the lot upon which it is situated, yields an ore of gieat 
excellence, equal if not superior in quality to any in the Moriah 
district. It was formerly clas.sed among the " lean ores," but is 
now judged to afford a larger percentage than has been supposed 
of pure ore. The bed embraces a number of veins of various di- 
mensions. Several are in close proximity to each other, and very 
probably, it is inferred from their course, unite beneath the sur- 
face in forming a single '^ breast." This ore when separated is in 



784 [Assembly 

great demand. The deposit is believed to be extensive and very 
valuable. The bed is situated about seven miles from tlie lake. 

The "Conro" and "Miller" beds are rich and important veins. 
The former occurs a few rods north of the " Old Sandford bed," 
and is very similar to that bed in the general appearance and 
quality of the ore. It has been opened about a hundred feet in 
length, and presents a breast of about 16 feet. The Miller bed 
has not been sulficiently opened to fully establish its extent and 
character. It has been traced nearly a mile by the magnet. The 
ore is said to possess some very distinct and desirable qualities. 

The " felspar iron ore bed" indicates and appears to possess pe- 
culiar combinations with felspar, that greatly enhance its value. 
This mixture much facilitates its reduction. The Moriah dis- 
trict comprehends two other mines of great value, situated near 
the boundary of Crown Point and Schroon. Both appear to pos- 
sess inexhaustible quantities of ore. They are of the magnetic 
type. The Pertjield mine was discovered in the year 1824, and 
has been in constant working from that period, with no percepti- 
ble exhaustion. This evidence of capacity is indicated univer- 
sally by every ore bed in this region, which, for a long series of 
years has been opened. The existence of the Hammond ere bed 
was ascertained in 1827, but it was not extensively excavated 
until 1846. This bed lies within half a mile of the Penfield 
mine. They do not essentially diifer in their characteristics and 
qualities, and are probably an extension of the same vein. These 
beds are about ten miles in the interior, and are situated upon 
elevated land, before it rises into mountains. The, Penfield ore 
produces a very superior bloom iron. The Hammond ore pos- 
sesses the highest qualities, of peculiar strength and softness, and 
is eminently adapted to the purposes of the foundry and the fa- 
brication of machinery. The harder parts of the pig metal are 
particularly calculated for the manufacture of car axels and 
malleable articles. The extreme fluidity of this iron, and the 
long time it remains fluid, renders it highly valuable in the 
manufacture of these fabrics.* The pig metal made at tho fur- 
nace of Hammond & Co., is of the first quality, and is unsur- 

•C. F. Hammond, Esq. 



No. 112.] , 785 

passed. The series of specimens, which I have transmitted to 
the rooms of the State Agricultural Society, exhibits an amazing 
advance in the improvement of this fabric. The remarkable 
specimen, which has been subjected to the refining process re- 
cently introduced into their works, exhibits the closeness and 
compressed fiber, the brilliant luster, and the general aspect of 
the choicest steel, from which it can scarcely be distinguished by 
the nicest mechanical eye. > 

On the premises of the Messrs. Treadway, in Schroon, and 
upon the same upheaving of the land on which occurs the mines 
of Penfield and Hammond, and in the same course, I examined 
several veins of ore, of excellent promise, both as to extent and 
quality. I infer from these indications that these veins are an 
extension of the former, and that the intermediale territory, a 
distance of ten miles, may be occupied by a vast fi)rmation of 
ores. Several large and valuable beds occur in Elizabethtown. A 
part of these deposits, it is asserted by tradition, yielded the first 
ore wrought in the county of Essex. The •' Little Pond " ore bed 
constitutes the mass, the formation of a considerable eminence. 
These mines, placed in tlie center of the county, and surrounded 
by extensive iron manufactories, are highly valuable /and impor- 
tant deposits. 

The " Little Pond bed " is among the most remarkable forma- 
tions of iron ore in this county, and from the quality of the ore, 
the apparent magnitude of the dei"»osit, and its favorable position, 
may be classed among the most valuable mines of the region. 
This bed is situated about six miles from the lake, and near a 
plank road. It apparently forms the mass of an eminence, prob- 
ably covering at the base an area of forty aci'es, and elevated 
nearly two hundred feet. The excavations which have been made 
reveal a broad breast of ore of the highest purity. The exami- 
nations already made, which are corroborated by the general ap- 
pearance and indications of the mound, seem to authorise the 
opinion, that this entire eminence is a mass of ore, covered only 
by an incrustation of rock and earth of a few feet in depth. 

If further developments shall establish this fact, the quantity 
of the ore in this deposit may be pronounced illimitable, and its 
[Ag. Tr, '53] 35 Z 



^ 786 , [ASSBMBLY 

value and importance almost beyond eoniputation. I have soli- 
cited for this report, and been furnished with a copy of the 
analysis by Dr, Cliilton, of ihe ore, which presents the following 
very favorable results. 

Protoxideof iron with a little peroxide of iron, 90.27 

Silica, 4.1 J 

Alumina, 0.2£ 

Lime, 83 

Magnesia, 3.43 

Water. &c., 1.14 

: 100 

"The proportion of pure iron in the sample is 68.80 per cent." 

Numerous veins of iron ore have been discovered in the town 
of Chesterfield, but no one has been extensively worked. These 
veins ; the Mihill's vein, in Keene ; the several Johnson's beds 
in Jay ; a new vein just discovered on the premises of Mr. 
Clark, in St. Armand, and the various other veins in different sec- 
tions of the county, specimens of which have been transmitted to 
the rooms at Albany, will, I have no doubt, be found when suffi- 
ciently explored, of great extent, and an excellent quality of ore. 
I examined in North Elba several large deposits, evidently of a 
high character of ore. They were singularly overlooked, when 
the original veins, worked by the Elba company, were abandon- 
ed, and it was judged necessary to transport the raw material 
from the Arnold bed in Clinton county. It is unnecessary to 
pursue this topic. The deposits of iron pervade almost every 
section of the county, and to such a degree, as often to embarra&s 
the operations of the engineer, in the use of the ordinary c-om- 
pass. The past history and progress of these mines sustain the 
conviction, that deposits remain undeveloped of equal magnitude 
and high properties, as those already revealed, which will be 
explored when the demands of business require their develop- 
ment. 

Graphite or black had prevails extensively in various sections 
of the oouuty, but Ticonderoga and the eastern part of Schroon 
seemsto be its peculiar district. I obtained very pure and choice 



No. 112.J 787 

gpecimens from Jay, Chesterfieid, and Moriah. The depofit upcr. 
the premise^s of W. A. G. Arthur, Esq., in Ticonderoga, ppreadf 
over a great extent in seams which traverse the rocks in deep 
veins of one to two feet in width. The wall is quartz or trap 
rock. Enormous specimens of great beauty and purity are exca- 
vated from this mine, A total freeness from lime, supposed tc 
exist in portions of the material from these veins, will render it 
of the greatest value in the construction of crucibles. Othfii' 
veins in the same district have been partially worked. I in- 
spected two openings near the works of Messrs. Treadway, Id 
Schroon, which afford very decisive indications of the graphite, 
in a large deposit, and of an excellent quality. 

In the progress of ray survey, I have most assiduously searched for 
traces of Galena, with a strong impression of its existence within 
the limits of the county. The coincidence of several circumstances 
has formed this conviction. It is found in light veins in the fissures 
of the rocks of sevefal localities. A prolongation of the veins of 
St. Lawrence county would appear within the county of Essex. A 
map procured in London in 1784, which exhibited an exact and 
minute designation of the headlands and islands, of the sounding 
and the position of each rock and reef of Lake Champlain, de- 
rived from the accurate surveys of the French and English engi- 
neers, strengthens this opinion.* Upon this map thus maturely 
and carefully arranged, a point is designated in the mountain 
range between Chesterfield and Willsboro', as the " Lead ore hed,^ 
A traditional legend of this ore bed is known to exist among th€ 
savage tribes north of the great lakes. A little flotilla of canoes, 
bearing Indians from that region, as they represent, appear yearly 
about the middle of autumn, lying on the beach in the vicinity 
of those mountains. Lingering here for several days, with no 
ostensible pursuit, they as suddenly disappear. I cannot resist 
the popular opinif)n that these periodical visits have some eoB- 
nection with this Legend and the existence of this ore bed. 

* This m»p was brought from England by li^l^jy^h, WatsoB, and was loaned by him to a 
State department at Albany. All trace h.os sinoe been loet of it. It was a rr.c&i iirportaat 
nnd iBteresting document, and believed to contnin the only niiiint* chart of I.aKo CtampJain 
extant. The steamer Francis Saltns was wrecked in 1862, npon a slight needle rock Uwl 
down on this ehart, but unknown to most of the navigators of tbe kUse. 



"^ 788 [Assembly 

A highly intelligent resident of North Elba* has Gommunicated in 
a valuable description of that town, prepared for my use, a singu- 
lar and apparently well authenticated fact of the accidental dis- 
GOYery of a vein of silver ore among the Adirondacs of that 
region, and the loss of its trace. He adduces very strong evidence 
of the fact, and that pure silver was fabricated from the ore. 

A quarry of black clouded marble of rare beauty and softness 
occurs upon the garrison grounds at Crown Point. Although 
more than a century ago the entrenchment of Fort St. Frederick, 
penetrated a section of the quarry, it has excited no interest until 
its importance has been revealed by the enterprise of the Messrs. 
Hammond. Its texture is firm and consolidated, but so soft and 
free from grit that it may be readily carved by a pocket knife. 
It opens in lai-ge slabs and blocks, receives a high and bril- 
liant polish, and is adapted to the most delicate fabrics. Another 
quarry of dark stone, situated upon tlje bank of the river in 
Ticonderoga, is extensive, and will, I think, prove of great 
value. Harder and less delicate than that at Crown Point, it is 
darker, and appears susceptible of a very high polish. 

A quarry is situated upon the premises of J. N. Macomber, iu 
Chesterfield, of great apparent extent, and very unlike either of 
tlie above in color and structure. It is a light brown, variegated 
by a white, with a shelly combination, and receives a brilliant 
polish. The unusual coloring and, appearance of this mar- 
ble, will probably render it a valuable deposit. An analysis of 
it will be presented in another department of this report. 

The geological formation along the shore of Lake Champlain, 
presents an unique and remarkable alternation of the primitive 
with the higher structures. The former, in a general inclination, 
recedes from the lak^, but incidentally dislocates the formations 
of the latter by projecting through them veins and ledges, in lat- 
eral spurs. At Ticonderoga, a range of sandstone and limestone 
rock supervenes. Proceeding northward, we meet at Crown 
Point, a ledge of regular granite, and veins of gneiss, succeeded 
by limestone containing fossil remains, and mingled with the 

* Timothy Nasb, Esq. 



No. 112. j 789 

black marble. At Port Henry, is exhibited a remarkable and 
scarcely defined and promiscuous mingling of various strata of 
rocks and minerals. Serpentine, mica in large and beautiful mas- 
ses, gneissoid granite, primitive limestone, are conspicuous. The 
pure white of the calcareous limestone, spotted by the sparkling 
black specks of plumbago, form most beautiful cabinet specimens. 
In Eeene, 1 found specimens more rare and exquisitely beautiful 
of this limestone, dotted by bright green crystals of sahlite. 
V&rd antique occurs in large veins at Port Henry, and is an ex- 
ceeding rich and brilliant material. An observant gentleman of 
that place affirmed that a fossiliferous.limestone rock, presenting 
a perfect stratification, might be seen at low water on the margin 
of the lake, forming a substratum to these primitive rocks. 

The granular limestone which crops out at Port Henry, ap- 
pears in Ticonderoga, near Lake George, and prevails extensively 
in Schroon and Minerva. I found but one manifestation of the 
rock in North Elba, upon the farm of Mr. Hinckley, where it 
developes in a ledge, upon a side hill. It appears usually com- 
bined with sulphates, phosphates, or other foreigu substances. 
The hyperstene rock projects from the mountains in Westport, and, 
incidentally traversed by limestone, predominates. The primitive 
rocks prevail in the southern section of the town of Essex. Here 
occurs that very extraordinary exhibition of porphyry so elabo- 
rately discussed in the report of Professor Emmons. This rock, 
extending over the surface upon several acres, is peculiarly beau- 
titul in its color, structure, and singular dcntritic forirjation. It 
atfords perfect demonstration of an igneous agency, most potent 
and terrific, that rent asunder the earth, fused and ejected this 
vast rock. The extreme hardness of the porphyry, is a marked 
characteristic. Struck with the steel hammer, it evolves a bril- 
liant corruscation of light and sparks. My attention was di- 
rected to another remarkable exhibition of iporphyry, upon the 
premises of Mr. Clark, on Vv'^illsboro' point. This vein, about a 
foot wide, is interjected in a seam of blue limestone, and the rook 
has been evidently dismembered in the process. Scarcely a frag- 
ment of the disrupted limestone remains, near the porphyry 
vein, but by a singular coincidence, or as an evidence of the 
amazing power of this agency, I was informed that fragments of 



790 [Assembly 

broken limestone, about equal in quantity to the rock, thrown oflf 
hj theporphyric eruption, are scattered upon the top of an hyper- 
stene hill, two miles distant, and two hundred feet high, and 
in a direct line with this porphyry vein. Large and produc- 
tive quarries of limestone, from which valuable exportations of 
building materials are annually made, are wrought in Essex 
and Willsboro', Various fossils occur in llils rock, and also in the 
slate or shale which lies contiguous. Many of these remains are 
of great size, and in unusual preservation. A few years sinc€, a 
single fossil of a reptile was exhumed by Mr. Clark, measuring 
two feet in length, and so perfect in its preservation, that the 
farm of the minute scales could be distinguished. Tlie northern 
extremity of Willsboro' point, is occupied by a slate ledge, identi- 
cal in appearance, and its fossiliferous character, with the same 
foi-matioij, upon the Islands and (he Vermont shore of the lake. 
At Mount 1'rembleaUj as in Willsboro', We^tportand Moriah, the 
hyperstene rock plunges into the lake in a bold, ragged, and per- 
pendicular wall. A very peculiar and large deposit of stalagmite 
lies upon the north bank of the Boquet, near, but not subjacent 
apparently, Uj a mass of limestone. Several veins of kaolin, de- 
velope at Mt. Trembleau, upon the lake slu^re, beneath the hyper- 
stene. Similar masses occur in other sections of the c<.mnty. A 
t.peciratn from Putnam-s pond, In Schroon, was subje-cted to ana- 
lysis, many years since, by Professor Eaton* and pronounced by 
him eminently pure and exempt trom injurious combinations. 
Limestone, and very clear quartz rock, supposed to l>c adapted 
to the glass raanul^ictuie, and beds of clay, of great purity, occur 
iti St. Armaud.f 

A long and attractive list of rare and beautiliil minerals might 
be exhibitt"ilj which are incorporated with the rocks of E.«isex 
county, or imbedded in its earth. Particular localities are pe- 
culiarly rich in these deposits. The crest of a hill upon the 
premises of Col. Calkins, near Lake George, affords a choice field 
for the researches of the scientiiic exploier. The avalanches, at 
Long pond, in Keene, presents a site still more lavishly supplied 

•Mr. Treadwa;'. 
fKiias Goodepeed, Esq. 



No. 112.] 791 

with brilliant gems and minerals.* Augite garnet, zircon, sahlite, 
sphene, coccolite, adularia, rose colored quartz spar, epidote, 
elorite, jasper, carnelian, are among the minerals yielded by 
these remarkable deposits. Veins of colophonite occur in Lewis, 
Chesterfield and Willsboro'. This exceedingly splendid and beau- 
tiful mineral is found in vast conglomerates, refulgent in the col- 
ors and luster of innumerable gems. 

An interesting substance, the type of a large deposit taken from 
the farm of William Russell, in Chesterfield, is worthy of notice, 
and is analysed below by Profe-ssor Salisbury. " This material, ho 
remarks, is so interesting^from the large amount of sulphur and 
sulphates of iron, it contains, that I gave it a thorough chemical 
examination. If the deposit is sufficiently extensive, it may some 
day, prove a source of wealth to the county." 

One hundred parts dried, at 212° gave of 

No. 16., «'r>ohr«." 

Silica, 41.21 

Iron, 1 5.29 

Alumina, 5.36 

Sulphur, 27.14 

Sulphuric acid, 8.85 

Lime, 1 .44 

Magnesia, 0.11 

Potassa, 0.23 

Soda, 17 

Chlorine, trace 

99.80 



" If this material is in sufficient quantity, it may be used with 
profit for the manufacture of sulphate of iron. On heating the 
rock up to a low red heat, it takes fire and bums for some time, 

• I hftve boen furored bjthc Rer. Mr. Pattoe, with a moro particular and highly interesting 
description of the latter locality. It is aituated near Edmond''e pond, at a precipice laid bare 
by an UTRlauehe in 1830. In tho bod of a little brook, which leaps down the slide, innnmera- 
blc minerals sparkle, and are strevrn about tho vicinity in every direction. High up the pre- 
cipice, a series of ca/oe occur, whioh are the peculiar deposits of tlie gems and minerals, and 
almost rival in beauty and variety, the oavenis of eastern story. " Here are found large bol- 
dere, and even ledges of calcareous spar, blue, white, and somotimes beautifully variegated 
by orystiils of epidote, oocoolite, and horoblendo. Thoy are occasionally found in stalaxjtitic 
and oryitalina form.s but more g«aeraUy ia amorphous luawee.'' " The beaalt ia chiefly fouod 
ki roioa aad dykes.'' 



792 [Assembly 

giving off large quantities of sulphurons acid." A singular for- 
mation of natural copperas, exists immediately below the "Wil- 
mington Notch," on the bank of the Au Sable river. The impreg- 
nated water oozing from the earth, forms a thick concretion upon 
the rock, which may be removed in large quantities. It is adapt- 
ed, in its crude state, to all the usual purposes of the artificial 
sulphate of iron. I submitted a specimen of this ingredient to 
Professor Salisbury, for examination, whose analysis gives the fol- 
lowing results : 
" One hundred parts of dried, at 212° contains of 

Sulphur, 5.10 

Ir'on, 9.05 

Sulphuric acid, 4.68 

Silica, 70.90 

Alumina, 2.50 

Lime, 4.70 

Magnesia, 0.70 

, Potassa, 0.85 

/ , Soda, 1.21 

Chlorine, 0.11 

Phosphorie acid, « trace 

99.80" 



" From the accoun'^ of the extent of this deposit, I see'no reason 
why it may not become valuable for- the purpose of manufactu- 
ring sulphate of iron, and sulphuric acid." 

Copper ore has 'recently been disclosed, many feet below the 
surface, in the "phosphate mine," and at another locality in 
Crown Point. These indications cherish the expectation of find- 
ing the ore in large deposits. Specimens submitted to Professor 
Salisbury, afford the following very favorable analysis. Xhe re- 
sults indicate that copper may become an important commodity 
in tlie^metalic resources of the county. 

No. 68. No. &6. 

Copper, ' 44.50 46.70 

Iron, 21.30 10.45 

Snlphur, 30.20 ' 



No. 112.] 793 
Carbonic acid, 



Silica, 





23.10 


3.70 


19.60 


99.70 


99.85 


r—- 






" No. 68 is copper pyrites, c-ontaining iron, as it usually does. 
Tliis is'^ sufficiently rich in copper to make it valuable if found in 
any considerable quantity. The greater part of the copper of 
commerce comes from this kind of ore. No. 86 is a carbonate of 
cx)pper, and will be very valuable if found in adequate quanti- 
ties." 

The hyperstene rock, occupying a wide range through most 
sections of the county, abruptly terminates in contact with the 
Potsdam sandstone in the Aul Sable valley. The latter forms 
for several miles the walled banks of the Au Sable river, and is 
extensively diffused over that valley. Lying in a perfect strati- 
fication, it may be excavated in vast slabs and blocks, and affords 
an invaluable material for building. 

A vein of "water cement" in the .town of Willsboro', of a 
very superior quality, has been used for practical purposes for 
many years, and is apparently of great extent. Other deposits of 
this material occur in various parts of the county. A sample 
from one upon the premises of Harris Page, of Chesterfield, was 
examined by Professor Salisbury. His analyses of specimens 
from both deposits are presented in the following table : 

No. 51. No. 30. 

From Willsboro'. II. Page, Chesterfield. 

Silica, 14.36 * 57.37 

Alumina and iron, 7 . 93 16 . 36 

Carbonate of lime, 60.46 17.43 

Soda, 0.73 0.06 

Magnesia, 13.46 7.93 

Potassa, 0.60 0.10 

Sulphuric acid, . 20 . 23 

Chlorine, . 14 trace. 

Organic matter, ^, ,' 1.60 0.46 

99.98 99.88 



794 [Assembly 

"•■ No, 51 J if in quantities sufficiently large, and uniform in com- 
position, like tlie sample analysed, will prove a highly valuable 
deposit for the manufacture of hydraulic cement. In composi- 
tion it has all the materials present in the requisite proportions 
for yielding a su|)erior cement. No. 30, although a hydraulic 
cement, yet the sample analysed is too silicious for forming a 
strong cement." 

Paint exists in different sections of the county, in numerous 
deposits and various colors It is generally disintegrated and 
pulverized, and is used in its crude state for ordinaiy painting. 
When prepared by artificial, refinement, it is believed these mine- 
rals will be made useful for practical purposes. An ore occurs 
in Ticonderoga of a rocky ox^nsistence which presents a bright 
rich Vermillion surface, and it is supposed will yield an import- 
ant paii.it. It exhibits the following components on an analysis 
by Prof. Siiligbury. Drie<l at 212 degrees, 100 parts gave of 

Sesquioxide of iron, 88 .20 

Silica, 10.05 

Alumina, : .60 

Carbonate of lime, . C5 

Magnesia, , 0.41 

99.91 

^ This rock contains besides the bodies mentioned above, a very 
^mali percentage of manganese. I see no reason why this ore 
might not be valuable for smelting if it occurs in sufficient quan- 
tities. It will make a very good dull red or reddish brown paint, 
if it can be ground sufficiently fine." 

I selected from the numerous deposits of paint in the county a 
sample from a feed upon the premises of Mr. Robert Cook, of 
Chesterfield, wluch I considered to possess qualities of peculiar 
excellence. The bed lies in a ravine, in an open pasture and ig 
of easy access. The paint appears upon the surface or by the re- 
moval of a few inches of turf, and is repealed over aa area of 
many ro-ds, exhibiting evidences of a vast deposit. The follow- 



V 

No. 112.] 7^5 

ing extract, presents the analysis of Prof. Salisbury, with his 
opinions in reference to the properties and promi<8es of the article. 

'' 100 parts, deprived of water, gave of 

Organic, • 18 . 35 

Oxides of iron, manganese and alumina, 69 . Gl 

Silica, 9.80 

Lime, 1.43 

Magnesia, .43 

Potassa, 0.06 

Soda, . 03 

Chlorine, 0.07 

Sulphuric acid, trace. 

99.77 



" This material contains quite a large percentage of organic 
matter ; aside from this it is composed mostly of the oxides of 
iron, manganese and alumina, with silica ; all of these are very 
durable. It will make a very good paint as' it is, but a far more 
durable and superior one when fi-eed of the organic matter which 
it contains. This can readily be ac<x)mplished by burning, which 
if thoroughly done, completely destroys the organic matter and 
improves the color." 

DRIFT AXb mLUVI.lL FORMATlOlt. 

Whilst strong and indubitable evidences prevail throughout the 
county of Essex that an igneous power constituted the stupendous 
agency that impressed upon this region its peculiar features and 
characteristics, it is equally manifest that an aqueous action ex- 
C'Tti'd an influence in moulding its existing formation. Without 
design ing to vindicate any opinion or to educe any theory, it 
seems required by my position that I should present summarily 
a few prominent facts which may possibly convey to other minds 
elucidations and arguments on this subject. 

,;^J. Lake Ohamplain is only 93 feet above tide water, and a plum- 
met desc^niding in it 600 feet, has not reached bottom. These 
facts may be suggetstive of important considerations. Marine 
shells, forming large deposits of marl, occur in the vicinity of the 



796 [ASSEMBLS^ 

lake, in a state of such preservation that, the species may be 
readily delined, and which induces the belief of their being a comr 
paratively recent deposit. The tenacious blue clay, surmounted by 
the yellowish clay peculiar to marijie formations, may be traced 
widely disseminated in the county^ Numerous deposits are disclo^ 
ed along the sides of hills and raountaias, of large gravel, round€;d 
by attrition and decay, and presenting every assimilation in appear- 
ance to the line of a beach that has been washed by the surges. 
The sand drifts are uniformly or nearly so, exposed in long and 
narrow expanses, occupying the tracts of valleys or ravines. The 
recent formation, is perfectly illustrated near the village of Plea- 
sant Valley, where a slide exposes the stratification of the earth 
to a depth of some twenty feet. The lower stratum revealed is the 
yellow clay, succeeded by a coarse and rough gravel ; this is sur- 
mounted by a smaller gravel, clear and abraded ; the latter Is 
covered by a stratum of sand, light and washed, and beneath the 
entire mass projects logs and roots. The lovely valley that bojy 
ders the Schroon river, and spreads over an area of several miles 
between Paradox and Schroon lakes, presents equally decisive evi- 
dences of a recent formation. This plain is fertile, and now geBh 
erally under high cultivation. In sinking pits for wells and other 
piu-poses, logs nearly entire and prostrate trees are constantly found 
from 12 feet to 17 feet below the surface.* I have before referred 
to the appearance of ripple marks near the base of the " walled 
banks of tlie Au Sable." 

In Elizabethtown, on the brow of an eminence, many feet above 
the valley, a perforation in the solid rock, smooth and rounded, may 
be seen, ilot unlike in size and general form to a common caldroH 
kettle. I examined two others on the premises of Col. Calkins, and 
similarly situated upon the crest of a precipice. I also inspected an- 
other formation of this kind on the lands of Messrs. Tread way, in 
Schroon. The half circle of this remains entire; the residue has 
been apparently destroyed by fragments of rocks, fallen from tho 
cliffs above. The entire circle was probably twenty feet in diame- 
ter. This also stands upon the verge of a high and abrupt preci- 
pice of probably two hundred feet in depth. The appearance, the 
form, the position, the smooth and worn surface of these extra- 

* ChiA Ivawsoa, Em(. 



No. 112.] 797 

ordinary structures, all indicate that they have bsen formed by 
the abrasions of a rapid and powerful current of "water. 

The existence of " boulders " formed of every rock, and dls- 
geminated through the county, equally upon the hills and moun- 
tains as in the valleys, presents a broad and attractive field for 
gelentiflc researches and philosophical speculations. Boulder 
Jocks, dissimilar in character and belonging to other formations, 
worn and rounded, are scattered over the county in utter confu- 
sion and dislocation. Granite intermingled wilh sand, sandstone 
testing upon hyperstene, and gneiss upon limestone, ijerpetually 
occur. A gentleman of intelligence assured me, that he had ex- 
amined a fragment of red sandstone near the summit of a hyper- 
stene mountain, in the center of the county, and remote from 
every rock of that description. I saw in Moriah, a Potsdam sand- 
stone block, lying upon the surface of a rock of gneiss, many 
miles from the former In scite. Among the Adirondacs, at an 
elevation of 1,700 feet, and more than 1,000 feet above any 
known locality of Potsdam sandstone, pebbles of that rock are 
found, bearing all the close crystaline appearance of that stone 
at Keeseville.* They are found in gravel pits, sand beds, and 
along the banks of the river. The presence of these boulders, 
varying in size from the mere pebble to masses of many tons, oc- 
curs in every section of the county. These are among the facts 
and circumstances existing in this region calculated to illustrate 
theories and speculations on the subject of the drift formation of 
the country. 

FERTILIZERS. 

Phosphate of Lime. — The extraordinary deposit of this rare 
aad valuable mineral in Crown. Point, has elicited much inter- 
est and attention from both the scientific and agricultm-al com- 
munity of England. It is a singular incident, that a general 
knowledge of its existence should have been announced to the 
oitizens of Essex county, by a report of a discussion on the sub- 
ject, at an agricultural festival in that country. The purpose I 
had contemplated of an elaborate examination of the material, 
its history, uses, and effects, has been anticipated by the expose 

• R. QiMk. 



798 [Assranca-Y 

embraced in the invaluable report of Mr. Johnsoa, and the able 
essay on the subject contained in the Transactions of 1851, 

The public owe the discovery of the mine in Crown Point to the 
discriminating observation and sagacious enterprise of C.F, Ham- 
mond, Esq. His attention was originally attracted to the locality 
by an appearance of iron ore, and the presence upon and near tke 
surface of large numbers of quartz crystals. These indications, 
and the peculiar and unusual formation and texture of the rocks, 
suggested a minute examination of the place, which revealed a 
substance, the name and character of which Mr. Hammond was 
ignorant. In the year 1838, he directed the attention of a Natu- 
ralist to it, who decided upon a casual inspection that it was a 
new and rare mineral, and designated its name, but pronounced 
it of no value except for cabinet specimens.* The zeal of Mr. 
Hammond was unabated, and in a subsequent examination urged 
by him and made in 1850, the mineral was ascertained to be a 
great desideratum in agriculture — a natural phosphate of lime. 
In the autumn of the same year ground was broken at the miB^ 
and excavation commenced. The opening is directly upon a 
public highway, and one and a half mile from the shore of Lake 
Champlain. A shaft eight to ten leet wide has been sunk 115 
feet. Lateral galleries have been projected north and west fi'om 
the bottom of the shaft- The copper ore already noticed, was 
discovered in one gallery, and the phosphate was raised from 
the other. About 170 tons of the first quality of the phosphate 
has been exported to New- York during the last season, and a 
large accumulation of an inferior quality now remains at th© 
mouth of the shaft. 

A variety of ore had been excavated for many years at tke 
" Old Sandford bed," in Moriah, and esteemed of little value oa 
account of the incorporation of aiTingredient known to the miners 
as " red sand." This element greatly depreciated its purity. A 
huge mass of the ore containing the "red sand" had gradually 
accumulated near the ore bed. The eye of science incidentally 
fell upon it, and soon detected in this rejected material, the pre- 
sence of a pure phosphate of lime. The ore is thickly studded 

» 0. P, HjuaaMMW. 



No. 112.] 796 

with six-sided prisms of the mineral. A machine is now in pro- 
gress of construction near the bed for the purpose of separating 
the phosphate from the iron. This process, it is expected, will 
extract a large amount of pure phosphate from the ore, and will 
relieve the latter from a foreign element that renders it worthless 
for manufacturing purposes. A successful result of this experi- 
ment is anticipated with much solicitude.* The phosphate of 
lime occurs in various localities of the county, and in other com- 
binations, to what extent and value future development must 
determine. 

MAEL. 

Specimens of marl from the farm of Mr. Tafft, of Crown Point, 
and the premises of Col. Watson, of Port Kent, have been examin- 
ed and analysed by Professor Salisbury, with the following results : 

No. 3, No. 4. 

Mari Marino ShcJte. Marl P«wh Water SbeOa. 

Silicioaoid, 59.20 22.60 

Phosphoric acid, 1.15 2 . 35 

Carbonic acid, 9.92 28.15 

Sulphuric acid, 0.15 0.09 

Lime, 12.78 36.26 

Iron, 3.40 1.15 

Magnesia, 0.5§ 0.35 

Potassa, 0.45 0.36 

Soda, 0.40 ' 0.07 

Chlorine, G.U 0.12 

Organic matter, 11.61 8.44 

99.72 99.94 



"The marine marl, (No. 3, from Port Kent,) is a deposit of 
great value as a manure; aside from its being rich in phosphoric 
acid and lime, it contains most of the other inorganic matter 
which enters into the food of plants. No. 4 will also prove 
valuable to those in its vicinity." 

* Binoe my explorations ta Mohah, I bavc nnderstood that tiie plvo6pfaAt« has boeo iieCQvercd 
largely incorporuted vitL th£ iroii ore of other mines ii^ tliat dlitiiot. 



800' [A.SSEMBLY: 

LIMESTONE. 

The limestone, particularly the calcareous variety so exten- 
sively diffused in the county, incorporated as they are almost 
universally with other fertilizing elements, will prove, I think, 
of the highest value in the agricultural economy of the county. 
I procured a specimen of rock in Schroon which has been par- 
tially tested as a fertilizer, with a highly favorable issue.* A care- 
ful experiment, comparing it with other agents, exhibits very 
satisfactory results. The Nova Scotia plaster proved the most 
efficacious. In the effect of the Schroon rock and the western 
plaster, no perceptible difference was manifest. The influence 
of each w^as marked and decisive, indicated by the superiority of 
the crop to which they were applied, over that part which had 
received no application of either of these materials. I extract 
the views of Prof, Salisbury on the subject of this rock. " I sub- 
jected it to merely a qualitative examination. Found it to be 
made up principally of carbonate of lime. It also contains a 
small quantity of silicate of lime and alumina, and a small per- 
centage of phosphate of lime. The superiority q£ this rock over 
ordinary limestone arises from the presence of the small amount 
of the silicate and phosphate of lime." The deposit is boundless, 
and I cannot resist the conviction that the material will prove of 
vast utility to that region, and will ultimately become an im- 
portant article of exportation. 

The following analyses of limestone rock from various districts 
of the county, present and enforce the fact of its great value as 
a fertilizing principle : 

* Lobter of Abigail Sonth, Esq. 



No. I12.| 



801 



carbonate limo, . ■ - 

Klioa, 

Alamiria and Iron, 

Magnesia, 

Soda, 

Potassa, 

Ohilorine, . ■• 

Snlphuric acid, . . . 
Phoephoric aoid, . . ■ 

Pluiul)ago •■ 

Oignnic matter, • • • 



o >- '^ 
S5^ £M 



66.59 
16.20 
6.80 
2.80 
2.84 
1.86 
0.14 
2.40 
0.13 
0.20 
trace. 



99.96 



,° 3 .s t; 



8.3. 9r 

3.13 
0.23 

trace. 

trace. 
0.10 
0.20 
0.07 
0.19 

trace. 



99.^6 



■2 C-i 






87.10 
3.85 
6.06 
0.85 
0.35 
0.50 
0.26 
0.44 
0.20 

o!32 



-# . = 2 



70.31 
21.39 
3.61 
1.09 
trace. 
0.80 
0.31 
0.69 
0.21) 

1.40 



0=35 



99.92 



99.80 



> 



:S 



80.92 

10.21 
4,89 
0.58 

trace. 

trace. 

traoQ^ 
0.40 
0.11 
1.69 
0.90 



99.50 



Prof. Salisbury remarks in relation to lliese materials, " No. 
208 is almost a hydraulic cement. It contains a large' percentage 
of lime, also a respectable quantity of magnesia, and an unu- 
tiially large percentage of soda, potassa, chlorine, sulphuric 
and phosphoric acids, for a lock of this kind. On this account, 
it is most admirably adipted as a manure for agricultural purpo- 
ses." This valuable deposit is situated near the he;iid waters of 
Putnam's creek, in Schroon, upon the premises of the Messrs. 
Treadway. 

"The " grey marble," of Chesterfield, No. 264, and No. 44, rank 
next in agricultural value. They are also unusually valuable 
for this purpose, as will be seen by referring to their composition. 
The marble will also make an excellent lime for masonry* Nnos. 
2.32 and 100, although less valuable than the others, on account 
of the absence of the alkalies, yet they are equal in richness, to 
the majority of limestones. They are both quite well adapted 
for the raanufactme of lime for masonry." 



PEiVT. 

Pcai^ or bog earth, exists in immense deposits in various sec- 
tions of the county, and is adequate alone to the fertilizing of 
every acre of arable land within ifs borders. The fact that this 
substance is attracting the general attention of farmers, and is 
becoming extensively used, furnishes most satisfactory evidence 
[Asf. Tr. '32.] A » 



80S fAssSMBi.^ 

of the pi"ogres8 ia the county of af^ricaltural science and im- 
provement. The speoicoen analyzed by Prof. Salisbury, wa* 
takeD fiioEj thf> farm of Mr. Haywood, of Schroon, and is the 
type of a vast body ranging through the adjoining premises of 
Mr. Fowler, and others. The snggestions of Prof. Salisbury. 
derived from the analyses, are emiaently just and important- 
Bog earth, or peat, Ko. 22, 100 parts dried at 212<^, gave of 

Organic matter, , . 93 . 48 

Inorganic matt^er or ai;h, 6 , 52 

This is a remarkable pnre {>eat, being comjx>8ed almost entirely 
of orgaaiic matt^-. 100 ft^irts of the inorgacio matter or mh^ 
gave of 

Phosphoric add, 19.37 . 

Siiiphnri«3 acid, 8.61 

Carbonic acid, ©.41 

Chlorine, 3 . 78 

Lime,.... 22.86 

Magnesia, .... , 8 . 78 

Potassa, ., 13. 24 

Soda, 16.32 

Iron, 7.01 

Alumina, 1 . 06 

Manganesep ......*, ,....,.. 0.41 

Silica, , 3.11 

99 . 96 

" From 4 to 7 percent, ol the dry pe^t, is made up of a |>eouliaj: 
resinons matter, which seems to impregnate and envelope the 
fibres, and prevent their ready de<com position. By combining 
with the peat, caustic lime, or ashes, or both, the resinous matter 
will unite with the lime or potassa and soda of the ashes, and 
form a soluble soap, which is readily dissolved in water, leaving 
the undec-jmposed peat to be acted on freely by the ageats of 
decay. Every farmer who has used pe^t to any considerable 
extent, is aware of the little benefit he derives from it when 
spread alone upon hla laud \u fact many have become so pre" 



No. 112.] y03 

judiced against it. by not kno^mg how to tr«><it it, that thej havf' 
unhesitatingly set it aside, as one of the qiiit* useWas htimbugr, 
of book farming." 

I inspfjcted nnmepous other deposits of peat, but can only eefet 
to the very extensive one, upon the premises of the Hon. A. C. 
Hand, in Elizabeth town, which spreiid over several acr<^. It 
exhibits all the charaoteristies of the specimen frcm Schioon, 
distinguished in the analysis of Professor Salisbury. A pole was 
thrust 18 feet below the surface through the peat, without reaok- 
ing the subsoil beneatli. 

A matt'rlal d^^signated " black clay," in the arran^emtat of 
earths, was examined by Profejisor Salisbiiry. with the faliowiBR 
results : 

" No. 23, prlneipally peat, iiom the premises of Mv. Fowiex 
l^.hroon, eontains. 

Organio matter, 4^.7^ 

Silica, 38. m 

Iron and alumina, 9 . 60 

Lime, . 2i^ 

Magnesia, , . Sif 

Pi>tassa, 0.34 

Soda, 0.3« 

Chlorine, 0.S6 

Sulphuric acid, .32 

Phosphoric acid, . 08 

99.96 



No. 23, marked " blaek clay,^' ia an alumlnoufl and sfKclooi; 
peat. It will make when mixed with ashes or lime, an eseellent 
manure for samly soOs.'* 

WIITE1LA.I. BPUINGS. — AMAL'JBKO. 

Numerous ppring^s of mineral waters exist in this county, but 
no one that exhibits very peculiar or high mt'dicinal prtjperties. 
It should bo remarked, howerer, tliat all the epnnge froui which 



804 [ASSEMBLT 

!i3 3]i6cimens analj^sed were taken, are unprotected and exposed 
to a large infusion of pure water. Those situated upon the 
premises of Mr. Stevenson of Westport, have been only tested 
by practical use, and are found to posse-ss emiaently valuable 
properties, when applied in the diseases referred to by Prof 
Salbbnry. The springs are beautifully situated near the lake. 
They appear to contain by the examination of Prof. Salisbury, the 
fulluwlng components : 

1 gal. water from 
sulphur spring. 

Sulphuretted hydrogen, 16 cubic inches. 

Organic matter, 8.64 grains. 

Sulphur, 2.88 " 

Lime,. .... 10.32 " 

MagDejiia, 2.24 " 

Potag-a. 1.36 " 

Smia, ....... .......... ...... 1.12 " 

Iron,...,.. ... 1.04 " 

Chlorine, trace 

Sulphuric acid, . , 0.88 " 

Ph(\^phoric acid ,..,,..,, 0.32 '^ 

Carbonic acid, 1 36 " 

Silicic acid, 0.40 . " 



1 gal. w 
oold 1 


■liter from 
spring. 


8.16 


grains. 


12.88 




3.12 




1.20 




088 




1.44 




0.48 




1.52 




2.48 




1.44 




0.48 





Tota.l solid matter in one gallon, 30.64 " 34.08 " 

"One distinguishing character of the sulphur spring is the 
large quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen its waters contain. A 
portion of the alkaline basis is also combined with sulphur, 
forming sulphides. The water at the spring contains considera- 
ble more sulphuretted hydrogen than is given in the analysis, 
prohiibly twice as much. This gas rapidly escapes after tlie wa- 
ter is removed from the spring and exposed to the air. This wa- 
ter will be found highly useful in scrofula, gout, rheumatism, and 
especially in all cutaneous affections, both as an outward and 
inwir<! application. The saline materials may prove usel\il in 
many diseases of the digestive organs. 

"The water of the cold spring is not as valuable as that of the 
STjJphut spring. .It, however, will doubtless prove useful as an 



No. 112. 1 805 

outwar(i application in cutaneous diseases, and as an inward ap- 
plication in some alfections of the digestive oi'gans. In some 
diseases of the kidneys it might prove injurious." 

The water .designated in the following- anal} sis, a*; No. S^ 
^as taken from a spring upon the premises of L. Pope in Ches- 
terfield, and No. 6 from a spring in Jay, situated almost within 
the water line of the Au Sable river. In relation to thef.e 
w^aters, Prof. Salisbury remarks, "on removing the cork, I found 
in No. 3 a mere trace of sulphuretted hydrogen ; in No. 6 no 
trace of this gas, or carbonic acid gas could be detected. They 
both contained a very small quantity of a ferruginous sediment. 
No. 6 has a slightly bituminous odor. No. 3 a slight icetid od^r. 
There is nothing very peculiar in the taste of either of these wa* 
ters, difterent from that common to all .waters, wliich contain 
organic matter, and the alkalis and alkaline earths in suiall 
quantities." 

A gallon of water from No. 3 contains 12.16 grains of solid 
matter, and from No. 6, 6 grains of solid matter. Of this solid 
matter 100 parts gave of • 

Ko. 3. Vo. 6. 

Organic matter, 31.98 4i.3*i 

Magnesia, 23.39 14.64 

Sulphuric acid,.... 10.13 5.28^ 

Lime, 1193 17,34 

Potassa, 0.01 7.08 

Soda, ^. .... 3.32 0,27 

Carbonic acid, 6.40 4.Ctl 

Phosphoric acid,, D.l 1 5.32 

Chlorine, 1 82 2.31 

Iron, 0.51 1.19 

Silica,...: 0.23 0.14 

Sulphuretted hydrogen, trace .... 

99.93 99 80 



80<> [AsSEatBLT 

•"The bases of the water of No 3 are combined with organic 
matter, sulphuric and phosphoric acids aud chlciine. The sul- 
phuric acid is probably in part combined "with tlie magnesia, gir- 
ijig to the water n very slight brackish ta^ste. This may well be 
celled a oalcnrt'o-magnesian ivater, from the presence of so large 
1 quantity of magnesia and limo. Ikeides these l>odie8 it con- 
tains a respectable quantity of potassa, soda, sulphario and phos- 
phoric acidsi and chlorine. The water (»f Ko. 6 diffei-s from Nos. 
3 and 5, in having a very much smaller percentage of solid mat- 
ter. Its solid matter also contains a much larger percentage of 
organic matter than either of the others. Tlie principal bases 
ar© lime, magnesia and potasaa. Tlie principal acids are phos- 
phoric and sulphuric. Although these waters oiier no very spe- 
dal points of interest in a medicinal way, yet in another i>oint of 
^dew, they are subjects particularly interesting, in throwing light 
upon the goological foj-mation in which they occur." 

The spring from which the water marked No. 5 was taken, ia 
tiltiiated almost within (hs shadow of the giant wail of the " In- 
dian Pass." A fountain of health, suiijcient to con3Utut<i a 
^' watering place," within the imre and invigorating atmosphere 
of the Adirondacs, and amid scene^3 where nahue reigns in pro- 
found seclusion, and in such impoeing and tftrriiJCgrandeur, would 
po9*es?i infinite attractions aud intoreet. One gallon of this water 
gare of «olid matter 1 J.G4 grain*, aud 160 parts; of this fioV.d 
matter gave, 

Organic matter, 1 9.73 

Sulphuric acid, 23.32 

Potass^!, ■ 20.33 

Magnesia, 16.14 

Lime, 4.78 

Phosphoric acid, . 4.18 

Carbonic acid, 3.59 

Soda, 2.S4 

Cnloriue, 1.19 

Iron, 4.18 

bUica, / 0.11 

99.89 



Sfa. 11 3. 1 SOT 

** The analysis shovm No 5 to be a magneeeo^potasaa water. 
From its composition I should judge it to b© superior to No. 3 
in a me<Jicinal way, Tlie ma^esia and potas^a are probably 
saostiy ia the forin of saJphates,. N'o. 5 has a jsligbt earthy 



PART V. 



The earliest business associations of northern New-York, were 
connected with the markets of the St. Lawrence, The illimitable' 
forests of Essex county, presented the first field to the settler for 
the efforts of industry, and has continued to their successors an 
inexhaustible source of enterprise and wealth. The lumber 
trade with Canada, commenced soon after the permanent occupa- 
tion of the country, subsequent to the revolution. Those sur- 
vive who were connected with it as early as 1790. It enlisted 
for many years, almost the wiiole energies of the population. 

ITie public lauds yielded a rich and unquestioned harvest to 
those who entered upon them, while the rights of private owners 
of wild lands were regarded with exceeding laxity. Fictitious 
sales for taxes and other legal pretences, were often unscrupu- 
lously, used to palliate or disguise these depredations. The price 
paid upon real sales of standing timber, was merely nominal. 
Labor imparted to the material its value. 

Norway pine and oak were at that time principally esteemed 
for the Canadian trade. White pine had ilittle comparative value, 
until the construction of the Champlain canal opened a new 
channel to tliis commerce. The oak sticks, prepared for the 
northern market, were hewn. The pines w^ere designed for the 
navy of England, and were transported to Quebec, round, and of 
any length exceeding twenty feet. Spars of vast dimensions were 
exported from the shores of Lake Champlain, and sold to tlie 
agents of the British government, probably to form x - 

•*The ma«t of sovm tall Adiairal." 



No, 112 ] 809 

The winter season was cTiiefly devoted to prcpaiing and col- 
lecting these materials, and the whole force of the teams, and 
labor of the coulitry, was put in requisition for the object. The 
timber was gathered in coves or low marshes, protected from the 
winds and floods of early spring, and there formed into immense 
rafts. Deals or thick planks of pine, and oak staves were ulti- 
mately manufactured, and exported to the same market. These 
articles were arranged in cribs, and transported with the raffs or 
piled upon its surface. The ral'ts were often of great size. They 
were propelled through the lake by sails and oars, and were borne 
by the current and tide, down the Sorel and St. Lawrence rivers. 
Tu passing the rapids of the former, the rafts were partially taken 
asunder. The strong currents of the .St. Lawrence, impelled 
them rapidly down that stream, but the turbulent tides near 
Quebec, often swept them beyond the havens of that city, with 
great danger, and at times a total loss. These catastrophes were 
not unfrequent. The average price at Quebec, of oak timber, 
was 40 cents per cubic foot, and th^t of pine, about 20 cents. 
The timber cost delivered upon the shores of Lake Champlain, 
from 6 U) 8 cents, and the transportation from thence to Quebec, 
was about 2^ cents in addition, per cubic foot.* Tlie profit of 
this trafic'seems to have been exorbitant, yet singularly, it proved 
to most 'who engaged in it, unfortunate and disastrous. 

Similar oak timber, at the present day, exported to NeAV-York, 
through the canal, subject to far -heavier disbursement, h worth 
only 27 and 30 cts., in that market. The magnitude and activity 
of this business rapidly exhausted the masses of timber conti- 
guous to the lake, and spars and timber were eventually trans- 
ported from forests fifteen miles in the interior, to the place of 
rafting. Small rafts of spars and dock sticks, formed of the 
scattered relics of the original forests, are still annually collected 
and carried to the southern market. 

No decked vessel, it is stated, navigated Lake Champlain fifty 
years ago. The insignificant commerce which at that period ex 
isted upon its w^aters, was conducted in cutters, piraguas, and 
biitteaux. Few wharves had then been constructed. 

*I am LiiJcbted to Mr. Jatuea riUing, ohiefly, for tho doUi'e of tbolurol'cr traie. 



810 [AissEMBry 

Tbo emigrsnts desiring to land tlieir stock, wero often com- 
ptfUed to approacli some favorable position, and throwing the 
iuiimali overboard, swim them to the shore. In the more sparsely 
kittled district*!, vessels lreighto<i with salt would anchor in some 
adja-o^nt cove, and announce it» presence to the inhabitants, who 
vceTQ often c-ompelied to haul their grain on sleds through the 
vyt>ods, to barter for the salt. In this interchange, a bnsliel of 
wheat usrually purchased a bushel of salt.* 

* Ths merchant vi?iiting the southern market for goods, before 
the infrodnction of steamers u|X)n the lake, which occurred in 
1809, consumed generally a month on the Journey. The return 
of the merchandize was stili more protracted. Th!8 Journey wa,s 
ofien perr<>rmed on horseback, and ceeasionfilly by a chance 
vessel. The goods were trana{K>r{e<i in winter by sleighs, and at 
other season* by wat^r, from Whitehall. N"ow, the mei-ohaut 
may visit B<^ston, make his purchases, and on the third day exihi- 
iblt his wares upon the shelves. 

The village of Es&ex, for a series of years, was the Important 
bnslneSvS mart of this entire region. The manufacturing works, 
for a long period, were limited to grist mills, for domestic use, 
and saw mills. Tlie latter became numerous, as the demand for 
deals and other sawed luml)er augmented. 

The construction of the Champlain canal gave a di3\;rent di- 
rection and imparted a new character to the lumbering operations 
of northern New- York. Norway piue became subordinate in 
value to the white pine.- The Quebec trade yielded to the new 
avenues opened t^ our own marts. Finer articlevS of lumber 
were prepared for the southern markets. The lumber businese in 
its changed aspect again became the paramount occupation of the 
cc)Tmtry. Innumerable saw mills w^re erected, and the fort^eits of 
white pine were demolished with as much rapidity as the Nor- 
way pin.e had been at an earlier day, to iupply the Quel>ec 
mnrket. 

The amount and value of the various fabrics, the produce of 
tha forest, which have been transported by the Champlain canal, 
fi-ocu Eisex county, ere almost Inappreci^iblo. The manufacture 



1^0.112,] 811 

.>f I-jcraber h in most ejections of i]\e> county Dearly extinct, frojn 
tii« oxhaustiou of the raw material. A largo proportion of the 
«awed lumber shipped at Port Kent and Port Dmiglas, is derived 
from the forests of Franklin county, which are rendertvi fiocoiiftt- 
bl« by the plank roads. The mills at Ticonderoga are chiefly »up- 
plird from Lake George. The amount of lumber annually ex- 
j[>orted from Crown Point, is about 5,000,000 feet of sawed lQntt>er, 
aad ten hundred thousand of shingles. 200,000 piece's of lumber 
'.rer© sbippe<l from Port Douglas in 1852 ;* 600,000 piec.<^^s from Ti- 
conderoga J 1,000,000 pieces of boards and plank, vqual to 
1 j<)35,000 feet boards from PortJKent.f From Port Kendall 9,227 
promiscuoua pieces. ;{: Large quantities of Siiwed luralMjr are 
ahlpped from various other portA in tbe county, tho amount of 
wbjoli I have not been aid© to procure 

The pino in the vicinity o-f Grown Point elTbrda on arUcle of 
lumber much superior In qualhy to that manufactured ivpon the 
Ausable or Saranac, and is distinguished by a fli;er grain, softer 
fibre, and a more brilliant surfice. My attention was parlicu- 
larly directed to the circumstance, end I notice it as a curious 
faot in vei;etable physiology. 

The exhaustion of the forests accessible i'rom Lake Cimniplain, 
lias constrained the lumber manufacturer to seek his resources in 
tke wilds of the interior. Logs are now fioate-({ i'rom tho most 
remote districts of Franklin wuinty down tlte Saranac river and 
through a portion of Essex oounly, (o supply the mills on that 
stream. State bounty has been extended with munificence to aid 
in opening that wildemea.s to this j>olicy, by lmj[K)rtant improve- 
j»«iats in flio navigation of the Saranac, Raquette,and other rivers, 
wkioh penetrate tliat territory. 

A large and valuable tract of timber Jaud Ijing in the confines 
of Wilmington and North Elba, spreads along the acclivities and 
for many miles around tlio base of tiie White Face mountain. 
This is the only district of extent or value, oooipied i>y the prind- 
tive forest of pine, spruce, and hemlock, now remaining upon the 
territory of Essex c<;unty. Kuvirooed by lofty mountain l>arriers, 
it is impracticable to export manufactured lumber from this 

• VrftJpcl<>. t 5. p. AJIjo t Levi Uigiby . 



812 [AsSEMBfcY 

region. Itjis esdraated tliat this tract may yield one million of 
saw logs. ^Although the An Sable river iu its various branches^ 
spreads through it a length of perhaps thirty miles, its channel is 
so obstructed us to render it useless for the floating of logs. These 
impediments have rendered this tract inaccessible to ordinary 
private effort and enterprize. A slight application of that 
patronage which has been lavi:^hed by the State, upon other lo- 
calities, would make this stream practicable for the lioating of 
the logs to niills, from whence their products would find a mar- 
ket by the Champlain canal, and thus pour a vast tribute into 
the public revenue. I witnessed t]^e results of individual exer- 
tions in the improvement of this navigation, and much has been 
accomplished : but public policy and justice invoke with the 
strongest emphasis action from the Legislature, that shall open 
the latent and inaccessible resources of this secluded territory. 
The efficiency and value of this mode of transporting timber are 
fully illustrated by its successful operation in other parts of the 
country. 

The numerous and widely diffused branches of the Hudson are 
annually appropriated for the transit of a very large amount of 
logs. Insignificant mountain rivulets, swollen by the spring 
freshets, are converted into valuable mediums for this purpose, 
by the adroit management of the experienced lumberman. 

The following statistics, furnished by a person prominently 
engaged in the occupation,* exhibits some interesting and import- 
ant facts. In the spring of 1853, 20,000 standard pine logs, 
6,000 spruce, and 15,000 hemlock logs, from the town of Schroon, 
were rafted at the head of Schroon lake. The expense of getting 
and driving these logs, was sixty-five cents each for the pine and 
spruce, and fifty-five cents for the hemlock. These logs were 
worth, delivered at Glen's Falls, $2.25 for the pine, |1.25 for the 
spruce, and $1 00 for the hemlock. During the last season, 
30,000 logs, chiefly pine, were transported in this manner from 
the town of Newcomb, at an expense of .fl.OO for each hundred 
logs. At the same time, -32,000 logs of pine and spruce, and 

8,000 of hemlock, were floated down the Boreas river, a tribu- 

* 

* Mr. Albijah Smith, of Scbroon, to whom I am inikbted for most of ray infonnation oa tbis 
aulyect. 



No. 112.] 813 

terjof the Hudson which flows through the town of Minerva. 
The expense of transporting the pine and spruce, wa3 sixty cents 
per log, and that for the hemlock, 40 cents. An additional number 
of 25,000 logs were transported during the same period to Gleu's 
Falls, from the more remote western districts of Minerva, and at 
about the same expenditure. These logs are floated singly or in 
rafts to mills at that place, and are there manufactured for the 
southern market. In addition to this immense exportation, there 
was sawed in the town of Schroou an aggregate of about 600,000 
pieces of lumber, measuring more than nino millions of fe^t. 
This enormous consumption of timber has nearly exhausted the 
primitive forest, and the business may be regarded as approach- 
ing its termination. Itcanscarcely.be conceived, when in the 
summer solstice we perceive a tiny stream standing iii pools along 
the steeps of a mountain, that a few months before the largest 
logs had been transported upon its flood. 

Potashes. — While the county was passing through its transi- 
tion from a primitive state to cultivation, the forest yielded a 
highly lucrative and available resource, in the ujanufacture of 
potash. Prohibited exportation by the non-intercourse policy of 
our own government, this tratiic was illicit ; but, stimulated by 
the exorbitant prices which the exigencies of the British af- 
fairs attached to the article in the Canadian market, an immense 
quantity found its way from northern New-York into Montreal. 
In the year 1808, and about that period, potash commanded in 
Canada, :fe300, when the usual price had ranged from $100 to 
$120 per ton. This manufacture occupied nearly the whole 
population in its various connections, while the excitement ex- 
i;sted, which was alone terminated, by the final declaration of war, 
in 1812. 

The manufacture of potash existed to a considerable extent, 
within the last twenty- five years in some sections of Essex county, 
but as a distinct occupation is now abandoned. The vast ac-cu- 
mulations of leached ashes about the ruins of the asheries, wit- 
ness the former magnitude of this business, and are proving;, 
where they occur, invaluable deposits of a highly fertilizing ma- 
terial to our farmers. As an appliance to their light and sandy 



\ 8*14 . [AsSKaruL-v 

soils, leached ashes are among the most active and usefal ma 
nures, and exert a permanent physical agency upbn the soil, tbat 
alters Uq cuasiKteBcy and imKiifies jtb whok cliaraoter. 

Timn*'ries. — Ajuither profitable and very pmspeititis basiB««s<.j 
which is sustained by the pr-oducts of the forest, is be<K)mlng the 
predominant occupation of the town of Minei-va and portionfi ei 
S€hr<Kin. Several large and valuable tanneries ai-eeetabliabed hx 
this district, and the adjacent towns in Warren county. The ex- 
tensive demands these works cioate for Ivark, forms an extenMFe 
market, which is abundantly supplied from the woodlands of that 
region. ^ 

A confiagration of tfje woods presents a pex^ne in the kigha&t 
degree ifBposing and terrific, and often inflicts destructive ravage* 
upon the pursuits of the maiaufticturerj as well as the products of 
agrleuitare. Jn certain periods of the ye,ir, the dried leaves and 
other combiistible materials of (he forest form an iuflamahie maiK, 
which spreads a flame with in<M)nc«ivable celerity. Impelled by 
the wind which constantly accumulates in vehemence, its progrets 
is so rapid that neither man or l)east is secure of safety in flight. 
It spreads widely its column of flame as it advances. It seizes upot 
tops of tbe loftiest trees, and leaping from object to object, it laps up 
every combustible substance, far in advance of the body of the o«b 
flagration. Sparks borne by the whirlwind for furlongs, stari 
new fires. ImmeBvSc amounts of property, comprising timbar^ 
lumber, wo<>d dwellings, fences, crops of gmin and grass are often 
in a few hours consumed by these inflictions. The intense h^t 
of these fires, by consuming all the organie elements of the eoII, 
.(requt'Utly desli'uys for many years the fertility of the earth.. 

In the spring of 18r)2, the thriving village of Franklin Fal]«^ 
just on the boundary of Essex county, was overwhelmed by a 
visitation of this kind. A fire was noticed in the woods, at a dis- 
tance of four miles, without alarm or suspicion of danger. With- 
in forty minutes from that period the village, oomprebendiag 
d welliiigSj stores, valuable mills, and all their appurtenances, with 
a mass of manufactured lumber, was enveloped in a sea of flam^'j 
and the inhabitants, scajoely escaping with their lives, left to th« 



No, 112.] 8(5 

destroying element their homes, fnriQiture and provisions. ?»'<■> 
thing in a few hoars remained to mark this Bite of jndojitry and 
business, bul a single c^abinj all else was a black and exnokJD|r 
I'Qin. 1 he aggregate loss from this calamity amount^ed to thirty 
thousand dollars, Thie is one of the oontiageneieg and ex- 
posures to which the manufacturing interest^e are eubjeote-d. 

Iron Miinvfactures.' — The iixm manufaeturing business of Essex 
county, destined to beofjine au inlert^st of natiunal coiisideratjoj>. 
was initiated in an humble establishment at VVillsboi*o^ FalL«. 
These works were erected in J 801, by George Tbroop and Ltvl 
Highby, connected with Charles Kan« of Schenectady, imd d<:- 
signed for the manufacture of anchoi-s. They held an unlimiUd. 
ooutract for the pale of all that article; they might make tor a t*:rm 
of ten years. The anchors varying from 300 lbs. to 1500 Us*,, 
were to be delivered at Troy. One or two exj)erimeBt9 were 
made in exporting tbcra to Quebec, but the lesalt was unfavora- 
ble. It is a remarkable circumstance, that the ore used in Iheee 
works for the first ten years, was principally imported from Ver- 
mont, with a few loads from Canada. " A bed at Basin Harbor., 
owned by Piatt Rogers, was the only deposit of iron ore which a; 
that period had been developed in this whole region. Soon after 
the close of the ten years contract the Arnold ore bed in Cilntoj?. 
county was discovered."* At that perio<l no knowledge, and pro 
bably little suspicion existed of the richness and magnitude of the 
iron ore deposits which were hidden amid the rocks and mountalas 
of Essex county. t Tlic foiujd«'ry at Willfboro- in addition to an- 
chors, manufactured mill cranks, grist mill machineiy, and ulti- 
mately steamboat irons. This property passed into other hands., 
and was finally converted into a forge. 

J^aU riaUs. — At an early period in this century, Mr. W. D. 
Ross, late of Kssex, erected a rolling mill on the Boquet^ for fh« 

• lirttfr of IiOTi Highby, Esq. 

I It IB evulent, bowerer, from the QilKlaud paficie, that tie idtia of tltc €ui?t«n«e of Iron ore 
wag excited at itn early ftcriod. He refer?, in HWS, to the fa«t of the compcfs being appa^ 
rently affeotcHl by itp prefeneo. la his jounwil erf July 31, If 80, is the following entry ; ^*3e- 
Boph Carder of Seituat*-, Bhodo Island, offers Gd. la\rfol money per ton for iron ore, aod rtiec It 
ftt bis own expense, 600 to 1000 tooa anoually,-' On Mnrch 13, 1763, lbs gtill nscro definite 
entry o«nira : " John Gilbert, owBer Bcrkfhire Famaoo in Lenox, propoeee to bo eoDcened in 
iron workft, at Lake Cbaniplaln, or to buy the ore at one sbilling lawful irioney per toa^ taid 
raisa it at bie exp«B»e. Mtiia — to write hiua jia soori as we roay mfeJy risit the ple«s.*^' T caa 
diaoove? nc traae of ubj expk»r»ti«ms or farUker actioa on ttie owljool. 



816 [AsSEJMLBLY 

construction of nail plates. These plates were manuiactured in 
large quantities, and sold at $8 per cwt. to the nail factory in 
Fall Havenj Vermont, 

About the year 1809 Archibald Mclntyre and his associate?* 
erected iron worLs ui)on a branch of the Au Sable river, and in a 
remote section of the county, comprised within the limits of the 
present town of North Elba. It was a forge of four to six fires, 
and designated " the Elba Iron Works." The ore used at the com- 
mencement was found in that region, but proving impracticable 
from the presence of foreign substances, was abandoned, and the 
works were afterwards supplied by ore transported from the Ar- 
nold bed in Clinton county, a distance of many miles, over roads 
only passable on snow. The products of the forge were export- 
ed both to the St. Lawrence and Lake Champlain, but by routes 
laborious and expensive. I have noticed in the preceding pages 
the evidences which indicate the existence in North Elba of large 
and valuable deposits of iron ore, but wliich remain unexplored. 
Situated in the midst of dense and stately forests, these works 
possessed every advantage f jt the permanent supply of fuel. 

t The business for a series of years was eminently prosperous. 
The works, however, proved too remote from market, and ineli- 
gibly situated for enduring success, and in the year 1815 were 
abandoned. A dilapidated dam, and fragments of broken wheels 
and shafts, and similar vestiges, are the only memorials of their 
former existence. In ihe meanwhile other forges were gradually 
appearing in the region, and when, in 1820, the Champlain canal 
had been constructed, the iron interest rapidly expanded, and 
at once exhibited in the increase of its varied works, an earnest 
of its approaching prosperity and importance. The valley of the 
Au Sable river was early distinguished as the prominent seat of 
the iron manufactories, and it stiil maintains that pre^limineuce. 

The Au Sable river for many miles forms the boundary of Clin- 
ton and Essex county.. The dams erected to supply the water 
power to the works, along its course, are necessarily in both 
©uunties, although most of the structures connected with them 
are situated In Clinton Tl}ese establishments, however, are al- 



No. 112] 817 

most equally identified with the industrial interests of Essex 
county, and from it are derived a large proportion of the raw 
material, the agricultural supplies and the labor that sustains 
them. 

The forges, rolling mills and nail factories of Messrs J. and J. 
Rogers at Au Sable ForliS ; of the Peru Iron Company at Cliu- 
tonville; and E. and J. D. Kingsland k Co., at Keeseville, each of 
them upon the Au Sable river, may be classed with tlie most ex- 
tensive and valuable iron manufacturing establishments of the 
Union. The aggregate annual product of nails from these seve- 
ral institutions is immense.* 

No process in the mechanical arts is more interesting and beau- 
tiful, than the fabrication of nails, by the improved machinery. 
The instrument is exact and powerful, and pours forth in its 
operation an unbroken stream of nails, perfectly executed. A 
single machine, attended by a boy, makes five kegs of 100 
lbs. each, daily. The iron of Northern New-York, peculiar 
for its exceeding toughness and strength, forms nails of the 
first quality, which command the highest prices in market. 
The formation of wrought nails by machinery, has been desired 
for many years, as promising the highest utility in this manu- 
facture. This result, it is assumed, has been recently accom- 
plished in the invention of a machine, by Mr. Daniel Dodge, 
of Keeseville, which forms the horse nail with great accuracy and 
beauty. Arrangements are now in progress by Messrs. Xings- 
land & Co., for the extensive introduction of these machines into 
their works. Their successful operation, it is considered, will ^ 
largely extend the nail manufacture in this region. 

• The Messrs. Kingsland & Co. alone consume 140 tons of iron each week. They run 50 
machines, which manufacture daily 250 kegs of nails. In the year 1852 there was exported 
from Port Kent, according to a statement compiled by C. P. Allen, Esq., as follows : 81,743 
kegs of nails; 467, 18.0.6 tong rolled iron; 200, 8.1.2 blooms. From Port Douglas during 
same period, by exhibit, 18,923 kegs nails; 3,660,000 lbs. aggregate of Iron. (Jlr. J. Wal- 
pole.) These ports form the depots of the Au Sable valley. From Port Kendall, also, in the 
town of Chesterfield, there was exported the same period, 189, 5.3.20 tons iron. (L. Iligby.) 

A heavy excess of iron after the daily manufacture of 250 kegs of nails, is made Ly the 
Messrs. Kingsland into rolled iron of various sizes. The other works upon the Au Sable, it 
will appear from the above returns, also produce a large amount of rolled iron. 

[Ag. Tr, '53.] B 3 



818 [AssEaiBLY 

The village of Keeseville is a creation of tlie iron interest. 
That pursuit has imparted to it the great prosperity, and in this 
section of the State, the unprecedented progress which has mark- 
ed its career. Keeseville is situated upon both banks of the Au 
■ Sable river, and occupies an important position in the heart of 
the iron manufacturing district. Its site scarce thirty years ago, 
on one side of the stream, was a cheerless and desolate swamp, 
and on the other occupied by abrupt and barren bluffs of sand. 
More, perhaps, than any village in the State, ijs distinctive and pe- 
culiar character is manufacturing. In addition to the works, to 
which reference lias been made, a highly valuable foundery and 
machine works of Goulding, Green & Conro, are of the first im- 
portance among the manufacturing establishments in the county. 
The admirable fabrics of these workshops are widely diffused, and 
in high repute.* Two flouring mills, which annually consume 
about 60,000 bushels of wheat, chiefly the product of the w^est ; 
an extensive i^lauing mill, a woolen factory, plaster mill, tannery, 
carriage and wagon and cabinet works, are among the industrial 
pursuits of this community. 

The recent prostration of the iron interest, which menaced 
extinction to that great staple of this district, bore upon Keese- 
ville with intense and appalling severity. The favorable change, 
which has occurred in all the departments of that business, has 
restored the former activity and vigor of this village, and re-ani- 
mated its manufacturing pursuits. 

A first class works, comprising forges, rolling mills, and nail 
factories^ owned by Messrs. Gould, Ross & Low, are situated at 
the Boquet falls. The products of these works are very great,, 
although I have not been able to procure any statement of the 
amount. Another of a similar character, of which James S. 

* Althongh these works stand on the Clinton shore of the Au Sable, they are so mingled in 
ownership, labor and material, with Essex county, as to be essentially connected -with this 
industrial history. "They have executed within the last four years large special orders from 
Canada, California, Missouri, via New Orleans and Lake Superior. It is a most gratifying 
fact " that improved fixtures, such as are in common vse Jiere, have been ordered from ( hio, 
New Jersey and Pennsylvaniat Thus showing, that we, in this section, are far in advance of 
any other part of the United States in improvements and conveniences in the manufacture of 
wrought iron." (Letter to author from Ilenry Green, Esq.) They employ a large number 
of operatives and artizans, and consume annually about 750 tons pig iron, chiefly for machinery. 



No. 112.] 819 

Whallon is the proprietor, is established on the same stream, at 
Whallonsburgh, and a third in Elizabethtown, which is in the 
occupation of Whallon & Judd. 

Other valuable works in. which Mr. Whallon is also interested, 
are situated in North Hudson, upon one of the remote tributa- 
ries of the Hudson river. By a statement furnished me by Mr. 
WhaHon, it appears that in the year 1852, there was manufac- 
tured 

Tons. 

At North Hudson, . . . 333 .09.2.21 bars and blooms. 
Elizabethtown, ... 621.00.0.13 do do 

AVhallousburgh,... 519.10.0.01 bars. 

Of the latter lot, 187 tons was finished bar iron, nearly or 
quite equal in quality and finish to Swedes iron. 

In the town of Lewis, important works are situated upon 
branches of the Boquet, and are owned by A. Wilder, W. L. 
Merriam, and others. A furnace was erected a few years since 
by Mr. F. H. Jackson, in Westport, at a disbursement exceeding 
one hundred thousand dollars. One of the first furnaces erected 
in the county of Essex, was built in 1824, at Port Henry, by 
Maj. Dalliba, formerly of the army. This was a cold blast fur- 
nace, and in connection with the manufacture of pig metal, it 
was appropriated to the casting of hollow ware, and agricultural 
implements. After various mutations in its ownership, and the 
erection of most spacious structures, these works, as well as 
those at Westport, have for several years been unoccupied, pre- 
senting a deplorable exhibition of the waste and decay of an 
enormous investment. Under the new impulse, which animates 
the iron interest, these furnaces are about resuming operations. 
The works at Port Henry, with several projected furnaces, to be 
immediately constructed upon the margin of the lake, are de- 
signed tor the use of mineral coal, which will be brought from 
the mines of Pennsylvania and Ohio. 

Just within the eastern bounds of Schroon, and in close prox- 
imity to the ore beds which I have described, Messrs. Hammond 
& Co.. have erected a very capacious furnace, admirably arranged 



820 [Assembly 

in its dimensions, construction and general econom3^ A brief 
description of this structure in the language of Mr. C. F. Ham- 
mond, will present a distinct view of the plan and management 
of similar works in this region. The motive power of this furnace 
is steam. 

Mr. Hammond says, " our blast furnace is about 41 feet in height, 
and about lOi feet in diameter across the boskers. It contains 
three blowing arches. Tlie escape heat is taken from near the 
funnel head, for generating steam, to create the power to blow 
our blast into the stacji, at the three- arches. The escape heat 
after being used under the boilers, passes directly into the oven, 
where the hot air pipes are placed for heating the blast. The 
escape heat is used three times before it passes up tlie chimney, 
viz : for reducing the ore, raising steam, and heating the blast. 
A large quantity of the escape heat that is not required for steam 
or heating the blast, passes from the stack directly up the chim- 
ney. Ten, is the average number of tons of pig metal made 
every twenty-four hours. The consumption per day, is about 
1400 bushels of charcoal, with one ton of good clay, one ton of 
good limestone, and five hundred pounds slag as a flux. Our ore 
yields about 55 percent of pig metal, of a very uniform quality." 
The following is a brief notice of the refining process to which 
I have before alluded : " Our ore," Mr. Hammond continues, 
" not being adapted for making hard pig metal, we have the past 
season, erected what is called a refining fire, for re-melting our 
pig iron with charcoal, and running it out on to cast iron moulds 
or chills, which make it very white and hard, and being more 
refined, better adapted to malleable purposes."* 

A process for making charcoal in kilns, has been introduced, 
within a few years, and eminently promotes the-easeand economy 
of that operation. Mr. Hammond thus summarily explains the 
mode : " We make most of our coal in kilns, which are built of 
brick, and supported by a strong timber frame, placed outside 
of the brick walls. The posts are about 14 inches square, and 
stand only 2^ feet apart. The kilns are from 45 to 50 feet in 
length, 13 feet wide on the inside, and about 20 feet high, arched 

• Specimens of this beautiful fabric are in the Society rooms. 



No. 112.] 821 - / 

over, and contain from 75 to 85 cords of 4 feet wood. Seven to 
nine days are required for burning, and from six to eight days 
more, after closing the vents, for the fire to go out, and cool ready 
for opening. The average yield of coal, is 1000 bushels for 
every 20 cords of wood." 

The process of separating the crude ore to prepare it for use 
or exportation, is an interesting operation, and not generally un- 
derstood. I have been <^bligingly furnished with the outline. 
" A kiln, the walls laid up of stone on three sides, about 30 feet 
long, 15 feet wide and 10 high, is the most approved size. In 
this kiln, wood, in logs, is placed on cross pieces, from C to 10 
inches thick ; on top of the wood, the iron ore is placed, as it 
comes from the mine, the largest pieces next the wood ; the top 
of the kiln, when loaded, is covered with fine ore, which confines 
the heat in the kiln. In twelve hours, after firing, the front half 
of the kiln of ore is roasted, ready for the stampers. The ore is 
pulverized by heavy stampers, and then passes through grates on 
to seive plates, under the stamper trough. That which is fine 
enough passes through, and is carried, by water, into an adjoin- 
ing room, whence it is taken, by elevators or cups, from trunking 
boxes, and dropped near the vats or tubs, in which the selves are 
worked. This separates the silex, and other foreign substances, 
from the iron ore. The selves are worked in water with a verti- 
cal motion, by a horizontal gig shaft. One seive, may work through 
about four tons, of clear ore, in twelve hours."* 

The works of Penfield & Co., standing on Putnam's creek, in 
the central part of Crown Point, comprehend a forge of four fires, 
capable of producing, annually, one thousand tons of iron, and a 
foundcry, with patterns and fixtures, for the manufacture of forge 
anvils, hammers, husks, and heavy shafts adapted to modern 
furnaces. 

I have thus attempted to sketch sdme of the most prominent 
iron manufactories in the county of Essex. Numerous works of 
less magnitude, but entitled to nearly equal consideration, as they 
•affect the great industrial progress of the country, are dissem:;:a- 

• Letter Col. C D. Barton. 



822 [AsSEaiBLY 

ted through every part of that district. The abstract of the cen- 
sus returns of 1850, presents the aspect of these establishmentSy 
their capacity and products. 

No occupation requiring an equal investment of capital, and 
yielding the same returns, is so widely diffused in its operations, 
or creates to labor more employment, or yields it higher remune- 
ration, than the iron manufacture. The price of the raw mate- 
rial in iron fabrics, is a trifling item of its value. That value is 
essentially formed by labor, skill and disbursements. The term 
of six months, and more frequently a year intervenes, between^ 
the commencement of these manufactures, and the realization of 
the proceeds of the sales, and this period involves a perpetual 
series of expenditures. 

Upon these facts the manufacturer predicates his argument, 
that the policy of government should establish a fixed and specific 
system of revenue, v/hich shall give him data and a basis to form 
his estimates and calculations in advance of his operations. 

No one unacquainted with the varied processes of the iron 
business, can conjecture its vast ramifications, or the multi- 
plicity of laborers and avtizans employed in its various depart- 
ments. The owner of the wood, designed for charcoal, is bene- 
fited by its sale. The chopper, the numerous operatives who 
prepare the charcoal, the teamster who hauls the wood and 
the coal, the measurer, the stacker, and those who occupy the 
various intermediate stations in this branch of the operation, find 
employment. The proprietor of the ore bed, the miner, the sepa- 
rator, the laborers and mechanics who conduct the various pro- 
cesses of the manufacture, the teams, the transporter, the wharf- 
inger, the truckster, and sailors, who navigate the vessels which 
transport it, are all supported by its disbursements. All these 
masses are consumers of agricultural products. 

The iron business is exposed to the most extreme and often 
disastrous fluctuations. Its history exhibits no change more 
signal and un-inticipated than that which has just occurred. It 
has arisen at once, from the deepest depression, to the brightest 
prosperity. 



No. 112.] 823 

In the spring of 1852, nearly every feeble, private establishment 
in Essex county was closed, and rapidly falling into decay and 
ruin. With few exceptions the ore beds were unoccupied; their 
shafts and chambers filled with w^ater; the structures dilapidated 
and wasting, and the property without a purchaser and compara- 
tively without value. The ore, which had formerly commanded 
ready and cash sales at $4 the ton, was then sold, with a feeble 
demand, at $1.50, upon long credit, and in barter trafics. One 
year from that date, mines which had been offered at |1 0,000, 
were refused at $10,000. The following table of prices exhibits 
some of the results which have marked this period : 

1852. 1853. 

Nails, $2 871 |6 00 

Blooms, 25 00 50 00 

Bars, 30 00 55 00* 

A change so vast and extraordinary has invigorated every de- 
partment of the iron interest, and extended its inspirations of 
vigor and activity into all the pursuits of industry throughout the 
region. In many districts of Essex county, the value of real es- 
tate has increased one hundred per cent, in this period, and this 
change has occurred without any specific system for encourao-e- 
ment or protection by the national government. 

It is a subject of surprize and regiet, that the manufacture of 
the finer iron fabrics has not been introduced into Essex county. 
No extensive cotton or woollen factories have been established in 
this county, although the great consumption of their fabrics would 
seem to render it a highly eligible position for these manufactures. 

Other Manufactures. — I visited, in the course of my survey, a 
novel but interesting establishment in Crown Point, the door-blind 
sash and pale factory of the Messrs. Flints. It is of recent origin 
but now gives employment, in its various occupations, to a large 
number of operatives. Several hundred articles, of most beauti- 
ful execution, are daily manufactured and prepared for market, 
A little village, of which this factory is the nucleus, is already 
clustering about the works. The superior quality of tlie pine and 

• J. D. Kingsland, Esq. 



824 [Assembly 

« 
cedar of this territory peculiarly adapts them to these delicate 
fabrics, and I regard this experiment as the incipient movement to 
an important and lucrative branch of business. 

Starch. — The manufacture of this article from potatoes, has re- 
cently been introduced into Essex county, and promises to affect 
very favorably its agricultural interests. With a certain demand, 
even at low prices, the potato will be very extensively cultivated. 
A large and expensive factory was erected by Messrs. Page, Tho- 
mas & Taylor, in the autumn of 1853, upon the Au Sable river, 
about two miles below Keeseville. The following remarks ex- 
plain this business : " We shall use," a correspondent states, 
"about 30,000 bushels of potatoes annually. The amount of 
starch produced from a bushel will vary from seven to ten pounds. 
The potatoes yield the most starch when just taken from the 
ground. We have four cents for our starch through the present 
season. It is a fluctuating article, however, being somelinies lower 
tlian this price, and often much higher."* 

Paper. — The paper mill, of which Mr. Parks is the proprietor, 
stands upon the same floom with the starch factory, and is doing 
a large and profitable business in the coarser fabrics. 

Black Lead. — The manufacture of the graphite or black lead, 
has not acquired that importance which we might infer from the 
vast deposits in the county, of the raw material, and the facility 
with which it can be procured. The quantity manufactured at 
the works of Mr. Arthur at Ticonderoga, in the year 1852, ex- 
ceeded 61,000 pounds, and is susceptible of any expansion the. de- 
mand will justify. 

Glass. — In approaching the furnace of Hammond & Co., in 
Schroon, I observed the road formed for some distance by a very 
beautiful material, exhibiting a surface soft and lustrous as argillo 
work, and glowing in every shade and tint. This substance is 
the concretion of the slag or cinders of the furnace. When gush- 
ing from the stack in fusion, it will form and draw out, by a wire 
thrust into the boiling mass, an attenuated glass thread the en- 
tire length of the furnace, a distance of sixty feet. The glass pre- 

•G. T. Thomas. 



No. 112.] 825 

sents the most delicate and diversified coloring ; although com- 
bined in the eruption from the furnace with extraneous properties. 
Thus beautiful in itscrud^ audadulteratedcondition,may not this 
substance, purified and refined by science, be rendered subservi- 
ent to the arts ? Impressed with this conception, I immediately 
called the attention of Prof. Salisbury to the subject. The follo\Y- 
ing analyses furnish the result of his examination : 
100 parts of dry glass gave of 

Reddish Light 

purple. blue. 

Silica,.... 68.85 68.55 

Manganese, 8.05 9.14 

Iron, 4.15 3.91 

Cobalt, trace 0.05 

Arsenic, trace 0.12 

Lime, 17.50 17,11 

Magnesia, 0.15 0.12 

Potassa, 0.85 0.43 

Soda, 0.35 0.22 

99.90 99.65 

" In the reddish purple glass, the coloring matter is principally 
manganese and iron. In the light blue variety, manganese, iron, 
cobalt and arsenic. Cobalt communicates to it the blue tinge, 
and arsenic the milky w^hite color." In a subsequent notice he 
suggests that this slag may be favorably used in the manufacture 
of colored bottles and other ornamental glass fabrics. A distin- 
guished friend to agriculture and the arts,* imagined that this 

* The late John Delafield, Esq. The first proof sheet of this report Tivas submitted to the 
rc^isal of Mr. Delafield, but long before the page was in press th^t contains the above allu- 
sion, he had (|ecn summoned, suddenly and in an unexpected hour, from the theater of his 
patriotic labors. I cannot allow the occasion to pa?s, without acknowledging the deep debt of 
gratitude I owed him, for the sympathy, the zeal and interest he manifested as chairman " on 
the Escex County Survey," and for the countenance and aid he extended to mc in my arduous 
duties. His enthusiasm always ardent and zealous, in the promotion of every patriotic object, 
was strongly excited by the revelations exhibited in the progress of the survey of the vast re- 
sources and capabilities of that county, which had been little appreciated by even his investi- 
gating mind. 

He had just entered on the threshold of a career, which promised fruition to the hopes and 
efforts of many years. Providence, whose inscrutable dispensation has removed him, at the 
period of his highest usefulness, can alone supply the void his death has created to the cause of 
Agriculture and practical science. This, however, is not the appropriate place to record the 
tribute due to his eminent worth and distinguished services. 



826 [Assembly 

crude material might be advantageously formed into dairy vessels j 
as glassware for that purpose is coming very much in request, 
and is esteemed of the liighest utility. I conjecture it may be ap- 
propriated to still higher uses. I am able to state that the intel- 
ligent and enterprising proprietors of the furnace have determin- . 
ed to pursue their investigation, and I have entire confidence that 
their experiments will result in the institution of a new and va- 
luable manufacture. 

The Phosphate Mine. — The subject of the phosphate of lime has 
been sufficiently discussed in the mineralogical section of this 
report. The ultimate success of constituting this substance an 
important article of exportation is yet to be decided. The 
development of copper in this mine and in the other adjacent 
veins, is strongly indicative of the existence of copper lodes, as 
favorable in their extent as they have been ascertained by analy- 
sis to be in the purity of the ore. 

Lime. — The immense quarries of limestone disseminated through- 
out the country, pronounced by Professor Salisbury so rare and 
valuable in their combinations with other substances, must aiTord 
profitable sources of business, when adequate facilities for the 
exportation of their products shall exist. Many of these lime- 
stone deposits are regarded by Professor as Salisbury not only use- 
ful for mechanical purposes, but his analysis presents the pre- 
sence of components which may render the lime of Essex county 
a prominent article of exportation as an agricultural fertilizer. 
The experiments with this material to which I have adverted, 
tend to the same practical conclusions. 

IRON ORE. 

A remarkable, and to the public generally, novel feature in 
the industrial capacity of this county, is exhibited in the fact that 
a large amount of crude iron ore is annually exported from 
its mines to be used in the works of Pittsburgh and other locali- 
ties in the midst of the ore beds of Pennsylvania, Ohio, and New- 
Jersey. The ores of Essex county doubtless possess properties - 
which improve by amalgamation the quality of the iron of those 
states. 



No. 112.] 827 

It is estimated that the ore exported in this trafic from the sin- 
gle town of Moriah will exceed one hundred thousand tons the 
approaching season. It will be recollected that several furnaces 
upon the shores of Lake Champlain are to be adapted in their 
construction to the use of fuel from the coal mines of Ohio and 
Pennsylvania. This interchange of the coal of these states for 
the ore of northern New- York, is full of promise for the future, 
and destined to become a commerce of great value and import- 
ance to both regions.* 

In explanation of this subject, the following extracts from the 
communication of an esteemed correspondent, will be read with 
deep interest ; 

He says " I have collected the statistics with as much accuracy 
as possible, from the business men themselves. I will first give 
you the amount of ore raised and sold in the last year, and then 
that raised sold, and contracted the present year. 

The business of the last year : 

1. Amount of iron ore exp(irted from Moriah, 26,800 tons. 

2. Ore sent out of the State, 9,030 " 

3. To which States sent, and the quantity to each : 

To Pennsylvania, 4,400 tons. 

'Virginia, 1,300 « 

Vermont, 2,800 " 

Maine, 1,065 " 

Maryland, 65 " 

Business of the year 1853: 

1. Whole amount of ore contracted to be exported from Mo- 

riah, 107*500 tons. 

2. Amount sent out of the State, 41 ,500 « 

3. To which state sent and the quantities to each : 

To Pennsylvania, 16,000 tons. 

Virginia, 3,50u " 

Massachusetts, 10,000 " 

Maine, 1,000 " 

Ohio, 1,500 " 

New Jersey, 1 ,500 " 

» I am indebted to the zeal and intelligence of the Rev. C. Ransom of Moriah, for the very 
interesting facts and statistics on this important subject, which are embodied in the text. 



828 [Assembly 

Two furnaces are expected to go into operation soon, and 
will use anthracite coal. They are calculating to manufacture 
10,000 tons of iron the present year. The demand for ore is very 
great. ^ Our people could and would greatly augment their pre- 
sent contracts, if by any possibility they could get the ore raised. 

The ore sold the last year, delivered at the lake, for $1.50 per 
ton. The present year they sell out of the " Old Sandford bed," 
chunk ore, fr6m |2.00 to $2.75. From the same, separated by 
machinery, $4.00. From the " New bed" they sell pure chunk 
ore at $4.00 per ton, and from the same bed separated by ma- 
chinery, at $5.00 per ton. This is about the price of the "Fisher" 
and " Barton ore j" also, pure chunk ore from the '' Cheever 
bed " is sold at $3. This ore requires no separation by the ma- 
chine."* 

The abrasions from the deposits of iron ore, known by this 
circumstance, to exist in the bed of the lake, are thrown in gre^t 
quantities upon the beaches in several localities along the 
shores of Champlain during the high water and storms of spring. 
The e masses are almost pure iron and for a considerable dis- 
tance often accumulate to the depth of several inches. Hun- 
dreds of barrels of this " iron sand " are annually collecte.l and 
exported to New-York, from whence it is diffused throughout the 
country, as a most valuable material for stationer's sand. Many 
individuals iind constant employment in the collection and pre- 
paration of this substance. 

PUBLIC IMPROVEMENT. 

Several^ projects of public improvement, now in agitation, are 
directly and intimately associated with the prosecution of an 
interchange of these various commodities. The investigations 
contemplated by my duties, in reference to the resources and 
prospects of Essex county, would be imperfect and inadequate, 
were I to omit a reference to those questions, which, although 
of great public importance, must exert a momentous and specific 

* Rev. C. Ransom's letter. Since the above was prepared, further explorations of tte 
"Little Pond ore bed " have more than confirmed the anticipations expressed in a preceding 
page, of the magnitude and value of that immense deposit. A large amount of ore has been 
exported and contracted from that bed, during the autumn of 1853. 



No. 112.] 829 

bearing upon the industrial occupations and progress of the 
Champlain valley. 

The prominent idea in the first of these schemes, originally 
contemplated an artificial communication between Port Kent, on 
Lake Champlain, and Boonville, on the Black River canal. The 
system of lakes, in the interior, which are united by a series of 
rivers, indicate the course, and were designed to form the route 
of this improvement. This conception has been partially realis- 
ed by the construction of a plank road from Lake Champlain to 
Franklin Falls, on the Sarauac river, which approaches the point 
on that stream, where it was proposed to commence the projected 
navigation, and obviates the most difiicult and expensive part of 
the plan. 

The remarkable arrangement of these waters, for this purpose, 
is fully delineated by Prof, F. N". Benedict in his elaborate and 
able report on the subject-* His report is based on scientific sur- 
veys and careful recognizances, and has been corroborated by 
various subsequent explorations. 

It appears from these authorities that nature has formed a prac- 
ticable route for this improvement, in the direct line from Pur- 
morfs Rapids, a point in the Saranac river, on the line between 
Essex and Clinton counties to the Moose river, twenty-one 
miles from Boonville, with which the contemplated navigation 
must be connected by a canal or railroad. This route, starting 
from Purmort's Rapids passes through the county of Essex, by 
the Saranac; along the lower and upper Saranac lakes ; the Ra- 
quette river. Long, Forked and Raquette lakes, and the interven- 
ing streams, to the series of Moose river lakes, and thence down 
that stream to the western termination. This track may readily 
be traced on the very accurate map that accompanies this report, 
which has been arranged for it with great care.f 

The following impressive facts are established by these inves- 
tigations. There exists, Prof. Benedict states, in this direct 
course, a navigation competent to steamers, of fifty-six miles, and 
by small boats of fifty-five miles further. A distance only of 

• Senate Document, No. 73, 1846. f By Col. C. M. Watson. 



830 [Assembly 

seven and one-fourth miles occurs along this route, partially or 
entirely interrupted by obstructions which xvill require removing, 
to complete the navigation the whole line of one hundred and 
eighteen miles. The lateral navigation, branching from this main 
trunk, formed by the rivers and lakes, which are mingled with 
those above enumerated, affords an additional communication, 
navigable by steamers, of thirty-three miles, and by small boats 
of ten tons burthen, of thirty-eight miles more, with an interven- 
ing obstruction of only one-half mile. The result shews the ex- 
istence in that sequestered wilderness, of a navigation adapted to 
steamboats of eighty-nine miles, and to small boats of ninety-three 
miles, which is obstructed by natural impediments interposing in 
different localities, and embracing in the aggregate, the trifling 
distance of seven and three-quarter miles. The total length of 
the proposed improvement is one hundred and ninety miles. 
The obstacles which exist chiefly occur in low and marshy 
ground, and may be readily surmounted. Mr. Benedict exhibits 
minute calculations, in which he estimates the expense of im- 
proving the whole one hundred and ninety miles, which embraces 

the lateral branches, at |312,950 

with an average cost per mile of. 1,611 

The cost of opening the direct route, 292 , 950 

at an average expense per mile of ^ 2 ,482 

This estimate contemplates merely an improvement of the exist- 
ing navigation and surmounting the impediments which occur 
along the seven and three-quarter miles. 

In a subsequent calculation, founded upon the scheme of 
creating an ample and perfect intercourse by railroads and 
canals, from Lake Champlain to the Black riverj Prof. Benedict 
presents another table of estimates. 

From Boonville to McLenathan's Falls, which is now Franklin 
Falls, at the termination of th© plank road, he calculates the 
expenditure as follows : 

A railroad from Boonville, 21 miles, $29-1 ,800 

Dams, locks and canals from that point to Franklin 
Falls, a distance of 121 miles, 450 , 000 



No. 112.J 831 

These estimates are intended for mere approximation, but from 
the experience and conceded capacity of tlie engineer, are deemed 
liiglily accurate and reliable. The cost of a railroad from Frank- 
lin Falls to Port Kent, now supplied by the plank road, was 
estimated in this table at $771,980. 

The lateral branches of this navigation, included in the survey 
of Prof. Benedict, Avould penetrate deeply towards the west into 
the forests of St. Lawrence, Hamilton and Franklin counties, 
and on the eastward along the western limits of Essex, almost 
touching the vast iron masses of the Adirondacs, and opening 
their resources to the wants and enterprise of tlie coal mines of 
the west. In commenting upon other physical features of this 
district, Prof. Benedict advances in reference to the lateral im- 
provements to which I have alluded, the following forcible con- 
siderations : " Extensive lines of small boat navigation, with very 
few and short interruptions, traverse all considerable sections of 
the surface. The aggregate extent of these lines is probably not 
less than three hundred miles, all of which could be rendered 
navigable for boats of fifty tons burthen at comparatively trifling 
expense. Thus the great mineral district of Newcomb, may com- 
municate with Long Lake through the rich chain of lakes on the 
upper Hudson. A line of more than fifty miles in length extends 
from the head of Long lake to Hill's falls, eight miles below 
Tupper's lake, in which a portage of one mile and a quarter, em- 
bracing seventy feet fall, constitutes the only impediment to ex- 
isting navigation. The Moose, Beaver, Saranac, and various other 
rivers furnish similar facilities. Li like manner, the head waters 
of Beaver river may communicate wath Raquet river, through 
Bog river and Big and Little Tupper's lakes ; or with Long lake 
through Little Tupper's lake and Forked lake." 

The immense results, which the consummation of this pro- 
ject may produce to the public interests of the State, it is not my 
province to discuss. I may, however, suggest that a territory 
which occupies an area of more than three millions of acres, ex- 
ceeding tlie superfice of more than one State, and now slumber- 
ing in an unbroken solitude, would thus be aroused into practical 
existence, and moved by the pulsations of industry and enter- 



832 [Assembly 

prise. An increase of millions of acres miglit be added to the 
productive agricultural domain of the State ; masses of a vigor- 
ous population would be given to the aggregate of her people ; 
millions of dollars to the taxable wealth of the State, and an in- 
calculable amount poured into the revenue of the public works. 

To the business and prosperity of Essex county, the success 
of this design must be fraught with the most beneficial conscr 
quences. It would create an access to forests, teeming with tim- 
ber, which may be estimated by millions of trees, and with wood 
for coaling purposes, that generations cannot exhaust. These 
sources of wealth would yield a boundless tribute to the work 
shops andvmills ot Essex county. The hardy population, thus 
attracted to that wilderness, would become purveyors to the 
wants of her manufacturers, consumers of her products, and 
soon producers of the agricultural commodities, her manufactur- 
ing progress will always demand. Instead of holding the portals 
to a hov.ling wilderness, Essex will then occupy the central posi- 
tion of a populous and thriving region. The growing intercourse 
between northern New-York, and the west, would by this agency 
be eminently facilitated and economized. 

Ship canal. — Another project to which I alluded, contemplates 
the .construction of a canal navigable by vessels of 500 tons, to 
connect the St. Lawrence with the waters of Lake Champlain. 
The commerce of the lake has much* increased during the last 
few years, partially by the augmented resources of its own terri- 
tory, but more directly, by the greater facilities ajfforded to com- 
mercial intercourse with Canada. During this period, crafts of a 
novel character have appeared upon its waters, readily distin- 
guished from the bright, trim, and rapid vessels of the American 
marine, by their black sides, dark sails, and slow and awkward 
motion, sailing only before the wind. These are Canadian vessels 
first designed for the navigation of the St. LaNvrence, but which 
have been floated over the rapids 'of the Sorel. Vessels f('om the 
upper lakes, which have entered Champlain by the Chambly 
canal, occasionally appear at its port. The enterprise, however, 
is rare, and accomplished with difficulty. 



No. 112.] 833 

The following statistics will exhibit the condition, and rapid 
progress of the commerce of this lake. 

Vessels Cleared. 
American. 

No. Tons. Cr€wg. 

Vermont, 268 72,064 4,679 1847 

do 477 104,114 4,315 1851 

Charaplaiu, 231 46,132 3,483 1847 

do S27 67,092 4,028 1851 

Foreign. 

Vermont, 310 17,734 1,130 1851 

Champlain, 8 360 24 1847 

do 335 21,708 1,458 1851 

The great increase is exhibited in the aggregate of the Ameri- 
can and foreign TCssels and tonnage. 

I have referred to the valuable and rapidly increasing inter- 
course which now exists between northern New- York, and the 
States bordering on the inland seas of the west. These States 
are large purchasers of the iron fabrics of Essex county, while 
the manufacturers of that county consume an immense amount 
of their pork, flour, and wheat. This interchange of commodi- 
ties, is of the highest importance^to both sections of the Union, 
and unfettered by the existing embarrassments, would rapidly 
expand. The nails and machinery of Essex county, are subjectj- 
ed to a canal transportation in New- York alone, of more than 
four hundred miles ; or if carried by the Ogdensburgh railroad, 
they are exposed to the expense, risk and delay of repeated re- 
Bhipments, before they reach the western navigable waters. The 
same restrictions weigh upon the transit of the products of that 
region, to Champlain. All these impediments will be essentially 
obviated by the proposed ship canal. The consummation of this 
gigantic scheme is deemed inevitable and approaching. 

The limited sphere of this report, will not allow any extended 
exposition of this interesting subject. I only refer to it, as it di- 
[Ag. Tr. '53.} C 3 



834 [Assembly 

rcctly aliects the interests and advancement of Essex county. 
No false and contracted jealousies, excited by alarm for the pros- 
perity of other public works, should resist or retard this great pur- 
pose. A commerce such as floats upon the -western lakes, that 
increases at the rate of seventeen per cent, each year, and wliieh 
throngs by its excesses, every avenue that is formed, demands, 
and will sustain all the facilities for its accommodation that 
kuman energy or enterprise can create. The space ot twenty 
miles intervening between Caughnawaga and Lake Champlain, 
is the only remaining obstacle to a direct communication between 
that lake and the great thoroughfares of the west. 

The construction of a ship canal, which shall form this link, 
may be pronounced a fixed and unalterable purpose in the policy 
of the Canadian government, that public sentiment has initiated 
and strongly fortifies. A charter has been granted by the pro- 
vincial parliament, to a company to be organized for this object ; 
surveys and estimates have been completed, and it is computed 
that the work may be accomplished at a cost not exceeding five 
hundred thousand pounds. 

A measure connected with the proposed canal is contemplated, 
which demands earnest consideration, from its bearing upon the 
future commerce of Lake Champlain. A survey of the rapids 
and obstructions of the St. Lawrence, above Montreal, is in pro- 
gress, under the auspices of the Canadian government, and is so 
far matured, that the ablest engineers assume its entire practica- 
bility. It is computed that an expenditure of X3,000 in erecting 
dams and blasting rocks which now obstruct the channel, will 
enable vessels of 500 tons to pass down the river to Montreal, 
with perfect ease and safety.* 

It is estimated that a steamer descending the St. Lawrence, 
and passing through the projected canal from Caughnawaga, 
might reach any port on Lake Champlain in four and a half days 
from Cleaveland, and deliver coal at less than 4^ and flour at 

• Keport of eommissionera of public works, Canada, 18S1. 



No. 112.] M 

one shilling sterling per barrel.* Coal might thus be laid down 
at the mouth of a furnace upon the lake, in large quantities, 
with celerity, precision, and economy. The ye?sels which im- 
port it would bear in their return freight, the iron fabrics and 
crude ore of N'ew-York. The only delay and charges incident 
to canal transit to which these vessels must be subjected, would 
be that of the Welland canal of twenty-eight miles, and thd 
twenty miles of the Caughnawaga canal. In the return voyage, 
these expenses would be increased by the passage of the short 
canals around the rapids of the St. Lawrence. 

Nor do these well defined and tangible visions re^ here. In 
the words of an eminent civil engineer of Canada, " this canal will 
shortly be built. It will make Lake Champlain the great high- 
way between the Hudson river and tlie western lakes, the quick- 
est and cheapest route by water. It will enfurce the enlargement 
of the Northern canal, at the Whitehall gates, of which we shall 
be thundering with vessels of 500 tons for admission. Falling 
here we shall give their freights to the railroads on each side of 
Champlain." f The eventual enlargement of the Champlain 
canal will thus secure another magnificent result to the industrial 
pursuits of Essex county, which will flow from this prcject. 

Another proposed improvement, intimately blended with this 
subject, is entitled to tlie tribute of a notice, although pronounced 
impracticable by those whose science and intelligence enable 
them to speak with higli authority. This plan, proposes a com- 
munication to commence at Lake Huron, traversing Lakes Ma- 
touline and Simcoe, and the Seven River, to enter Ontario at the 
city of Toronto. It is asserted that this route, while it shortens 
the distance between Lake Huron and the Atlantic, five hundred 

• I have been furnished by H.Green, E«q., of Keeseville, since writing the above, witfc 
Che following statistics : He estimates the present cost of transportation of a barrel of flowr from 
Cleavcland to Port Kent, 50 cents, and the average time required, ahmt two wcelis. lie sajs, 
" there is a coal to be purchased at Erie, Pa., at a low rate, which would perhaps be used for 
beating iron, and in blast furnaces for making pig iron, if the traBsportation could l>e cheap- 
ened by a ship canal, to the waters of Lake Champlain, The Anthracite coal at the present 
time, costs about $6 per ton at Port Kent." 

t T. C. Reefer's letter to author, 9th March, 1853. I am indebted to Mr. Kcefor for a maa 
•f valuable works on this subject, embracing his own able productions and other public doou- 



836 [Assembly 

miles, can be perfected by an artificial navigation of only forty- 
eight miles. 

The canal, at the Sault of St. Mary's, is another link in this 
stupendous inland navigation. Penetrating still deeper into 
futurity, we may contemplate Michigan united to the waters 
of the Mississippi. An internal communication thus created, 
connecting New Orleans and the far west with the east and 
north, would bind together the union in the triple chain of 
proximity, commerce and social intercourse. Conjecture hesi- 
tates in attempting to estimate the immense consequences in 
the future progress and prosperity of Northern New- York, Wliich 
will result from the existence of a ship canal at Caughna- 
waga. No longer a remote and sequestered region, it will at 
once attain a commanding attitude upon the great highway of 
western commerce. Essex county will then enjoy a wide and 
perpetually expanding market, for all the products of her mines, 
ker workshops and furnaces. 

Plank Roads. — Several plank roads in the last five years have 
been constructed in Essex county. One of these extends from 
Port Henry to the ore beds in Moriah ; another from Westport to 
Elizabeth town, and a third commencing at Port Kent, and passes 
along the Au Sable valley to Franklin Falls, in Franklin county, 
a distance of thirty-five miles. The latter is incomplete, how- 
ever, for about five miles at one point. A branch of this road 
runs from Keeseville to Port Douglas. These great works are 
arteries to the industry of the country, and communicate vigor and 
animation to every district they enter. In the transportation of 
heavy and bulky articles, and upon short and lateral routes, plank 
roads are esteemed more beneficial to an entire community than 
even railroads. All classes participate in the facilities and advan- 
tages they aflTord. One fact will illustrate their important effect 
upon the manufacturing interests of this region. The price of 
transporting iron and nails from Au Sable Forks to Port Kent, a 
distance of fifteen miles, was formerly $2.50 per ton. The cost of 
transportation by the plank road, a distance of seventeen miles, 
between these places is now ^1,25 uPon the same commodities. 



No. 112.] 837 

Mule teams have been extensively introduced upon these roads. 
They live longer than horses, are more hardy and less liable 
to accidents and disease, are fed with less expense, and are almost- 
as powerful in their muscular strength. 

Railroads. — A company has been organised for the construction 
of a railroad between Plattsburgh and Whitehall. This will 
traverse the whole length of Essex county, and perfect a continu- 
ous and most direct communication between Montreal and New- 
York. 

In exploring the wilderness, which envelop-^s the " WIiitefa''e 
mountain," I pursued the track of the recognisance, made in the 
year 1837, of the pj-ojec d railroad, intended to connect the St. 
Lawrence with Lake Ciiamplain. Some mysterious and inscruta- 
ble reason seems to have influenced the engineer in running his 
line up the slopes of Whileface, to a point so elevated, that the 
route was necessarily pronounced impracticable and abandoned, 
while at the base of the mountain, and in view of his position, h© 
might have found an eligible track, marked out by the eraphatio 
hand of nature. Had the summit at this point been surmounted, 
and the plains of North Elba reached, it was conceded that no fur- 
ther impediments existed to the shores of the St. Lawrence. I 
advert to this subject, under the deep conviction, that the hand 
of public policy or individual effort will soon unlock the trea- 
sures slumbf ring in these recesses, and that this project, so singu- 
larly defeated, may be made the instrument of accomplishing the 
great result. 

Marble. — I have already fully noticed the marble quarries of 
Essex county, and will only add, that vigorous measures are con- 
templated in opening the quarry at Crown Point, the approaching 
summer. When we consider the immense deposits of this mate- 
rial, its exceeding beauty and variety and great value, the anti- 
cipation may be cherished, (hat those quarries will soon afford a 
business, secondary alone^ in magnitude and importance to the 
iron manufactures of this region. 

Shipyards. — Several ®f the first class vessels, which navigate 
the lake were built in the yards of Essex county. This business, 



838 [Assembly 

especially in the towns of Essex and Willsboro', is of very consi- 
derable importance. The tamarac, cedar and oak timber, appro- 
priate to this use, is abundant in the county, and of the most 
excellent quality. 

Sailors. — A large class of the popialition, contiguous to Lake 
Charaplain, is connected witli its navigation. In the year end- 
ing June 30, 1851, there were entered in American vessels in 

Vermont district crews, 4,700 

Champlain district, 4,21 1 

Total, 8,911 



This occupation forms an admirable school for the acquisition 
of nautical skill and experience, and has created a bold and ex- 
pert body of mariners. If the public exigencies should hereafter 
demand the presence of a national fleet upon the waters of 
Champlain, her own marine would promptly supply daring and 
efficient crews. 

Commerce of Lake Champlain. 

Extract from Andrews^ Report on '' Cvh.nial and Lake Trade ^^^ 
House Doc. 136, 1852. 

" These results are derived and estimated from the canal office, 
Whitehall. 

District of Vermont. — The amount of assorted merchandize 
received into Lake Champlain in 1851, was 125,000 tons, at $1.75 
per ton. 

Average valuation, $21 ,875,000 

Amount of produce received from the lake, 3,5 1 5,895 

Add for coasting, 1 ,()U'J,000 

Total commerce of the lake, $26,390,895 



K-o. 112] 839 

The Canadian trade for Vermont district, for 1850 and 1851 : 

1850. 1861. 

Exports of domestic produce, $651,677 $458,006 

Exports of foreign merchandize, 294,182 309,556 



Total exports, $945,859 $767,573 

Total imports, 607,466 266,417 



Total, $1,552,325 $1,033,989 

Subtract total of 1851, 1,033,989 



Decrease of 1851, $519,336 



Tonnage in the Canadian trade two years, as follows : 

No. vessels. Tons. No. vessels. Tons. 

1851, 788 94,- 35 695 91,967 

1850, 818 122,813 731 105,359 

The aggregate shipping of Lake Champlain, both foreign and 
coastwise, is represented to have numbered 3,950 entrances, 
measurement, 197,500 tons, and employing 11.850 men and boys, 
with a corresponding number of clearances, with the same mea- 
surement and crews. The enrolled tonnage of this district in 
June, 1851, was 3,240 tons of steam, and 692 tons of sail. 

Tonnage. 

Inward American, 166 steam. 56,421 tons, 

do do 388 sail. 17,490 " 



Total, 504 73,911 « 



British, 122 steam. 9,560 <' 

do 102 sail. 10,758 « 



Total, 284 20,324 " 



Outward American, 147 steam. 58,024 •< 

do do 318 sail. 17,020 « 



Total, 465 75,044 " 



840 [ASSEMBLT 

Outward Britislij 119 steam. 9,321 tons. 

do do Ill sail. 7,602 " 



Total, 230 16,923 



Talue of produce imported from Canada in bond, $311,512 

" imports from Canada, 251,211 

« goods of domestic produce and manufacture 

exported to Canada, 458,006 

w goods of foreign produce and manufacture ex- 
ported into Canada in bond, 200,854 

« property cleared at Whitehall for the south,. 3,515,895 

Cham^lain District. 

1850. 1851. 

Exports of domestic produce, $322,378 $375,549 

« foreign merchandize, 310,843 373,453 



Total exports, $039,221 $749,002 

Total imports, 435,383 294,284 

Total commerce, $1,074,604 $1,043,286 



No. Tessels. 


Tons entered. 


No. Tessels. 


Tons entered. 


, 598 


123,229 


598 


123,229 


, 788 


120,294 


754 


110,931 



1851, 

1850, 

The decrease in 1851, it will be perceived, affects only the 
number of entrances and clearances. The comparative tonnage 
being an increase on the preceding year. The tonage enrolled in 
this district, June 30th, 1851, was 

Steam, 917 tons. 

Sail, 3,291 " 

Canadian Trade. 

Imports in American vessels, $1,019,039 

Exports, 24,246 



No. 112.] 



841 



Tonnage. 



Inward. Tons. 

American steam, .... 90,436 
" sailing,... 8,1 3D 



Outward. Tons. 

American steam, 90,436 

" sailing, 8,135 



Total, 98,575 



Total, 98,571 



British steam, 3,899 

" sail, 20,759 



British steam, 3,899 

" sail, 20,759 



Totals, 24,658 



24,658 



Duty collected on imports in American vessels, $46,639 

do do British vessels, 5,210 

$51,849 



Imported from Canada in American vessels, $228,241 

do do British vessels, 24,246 



Total, $252,487 



Value of domestic goods exported, $375,549 



foreign goods exported, $267, 58f 

" entitled to drawback, 105,866 



Total, $373,453 



The whole value of the commerce of Lake Champlain, was for 
1846, about eleven millions; for 1847, seventeen; and for 1851, 
about twenty-six millions of dollars. 



PART VI. 
AGRICULTURE. 



In describing the topographical features and arrangement of 
this coimty, in the preceding pages, I have sufficiently noticed its 
agricultural capabilities, and the soil and climate of its various 
districts. That review indicates a great diversity and singular 
combination of soils. They adapt the county to the cultivation 
of every crop, congenial to its varied climate. 

The same transitions in its agricultural progress have marked 
every section of this county. The natural fertility of the soil, when 
first opened to cultivation, yielded abundant harvests ; injudi- 
(jious tillage gradually exhausted its productive elements j the 
cause which tended to these results ceased ; new interests in the 
management of the land were excited, and a general improvement 
in the farms was produced by an ameliorated system of hus- 
bandry. 

The county still exhibits these various phases of its agriculture^ 
Some farms are just emerging from the primeval w'ilderness ; 
some are impoverished and exhausted ; others are commencing (he 
process of renovation ; w^hile many others have attained a degree 
of improved culture and fertility, scarcely exceeded by any por- 
tion of the State. 

The lumber business in every region, appropriate to its pur- 
suit, captivates the mind of the pioneer, and allures him from 
other occupations. It has exerted a depressing influence upon 
the agricultural interests and progress of Essex county. The 
winter was devoted to this employment. Every product of the 
farm calculated to return fertilizing elements to sustain and 



No. 112.] 843 

promote its productivness, were borne into the forests and there 
consumed. At tlie approach of spring, the settler returned 
to his farm, himself and his team, prostrated by the severe la- 
bors of the winter, and illy prepared to perform the recurring 
duties which pressed upon him. He conducts his farming 
operations imperfectly and without skill. He has no deposits 
of manner to apply to his wasting soil. The earth, by con- 
stant tillage, without renovation, becomes impoverished. Each 
succeeding year witnesses a decrease in the harvest. The land, 
exhausted by this improvident management, is denounced worth- 
less in its soil, and without fertility, and abandoned to briers and 
desolation, or is sacrificed to some shrewd purchaser, and its own- 
er, emigrates to new scenes, to pass through the same alternations. 
In this stage of society, agriculture is the secondary and subor- 
dinate occupation. 

The lumbering business closed, the farmer resumes his first 
duties, and yields to the land the labor and care required for 
its successful cultivation. In a manufacturing district, and such 
is pre-eminently Essex county, the teaming upon t!ie road, which 
abstracts so much of the time of the farmer, and the fertilizing 
riches of the farm, from his land, exercises a similar, although 
far less disastrous effect, upon its agricultural prosperity. 

Other causes of the slow progress in the agricultural im- 
provement of this county are suggested by an intelligent cor- 
respondent,* in reference to Crown Point, but its traces are ex- 
hibited in various other parts of the county. " Conflicting titles 
have cast a shade over some large tracts," and in other districts 
" much of the land has been occupied under contracts, in their 
terms liable to constant forfeiture." Tenures of property so frail 
and contingent in every region, paralyse the efforts of industry 
and enterprise. 

No uniform system of tillage seems to have been observed, 
immediately succeeding the clearing and burning of the uillowa. 
Wheat, rye and oats were often, particularly on the adhesive and 
clay soil dragged in upon the burnt surface. In other parts of 
the county, potatoes or corn were the first crop. This husbandry 

• C. FentoD, Esq. 



844 [Assembly 

is called " the Indian mode," and is derived from their practices* 
The seed corn was dropped into a hole, formed by the stroke of 
an axe or hoe, and covered. Beyond this, Uttle labor was required' 
until harvest. The potatoe was planted by a very similar process ; 
the earth being pulverised sufficiently by the hoe alone, to form a 
slight hill. Tlie ledge I have mentioned in Jay, yielded at its 
first occupation, by this tillage, crops of corn averaging fifty bush 
els to the acre.* The early settlers relied chiefly for pasturage 
and winter fodder upon the wild grasses and herbage, bountifully 
supplied by the beaver meadows, the marshes and glades of the 
forests. The indigenous grasses of this region are very nume- 
rous, and many of them highly nutritious and valuable. Several 
varieties of the ferns, brakes and rushes afford excellent hay, 
particularly for sheep. The instincts of the deer indicate to the 
pioneer the most useful of these resources. 

The " Deer weed," a plant which springs up in great luxuriance 
wliere a conflagration has passed through a woodland, is a favorite 
food of this animal. I was assured by a settler wiio had deeply 
penetrated the Adirondacs, that he found this weed an invalua- 
ble resort for pasturage in summer, and affording a sufficient sub- 
stitute for hay in the season of foddering. A wild grass, pro- 
nounced the Poa compressa of tlie botanist, and known in popular 
language as the " blue joint," I am confident is well adapted for 
cultivation, and may be rendered highly valuable, if introduced 
into our low meadows. I understand the experiment has been 
successfully tested in the town of Minerva. f Its growth is spon- 
taneous along the margins of marshes, and upon ridges of earth 
" excavated in forming ditches through wet lands. This grass often 
attains more than five feet in height, stands thickly, spreads a 
massive vegetation, and yields, it is estimated, three and four 
tons to the acre. Cattle eat it with avidity, and in its nutritive 
qualities is esteemed scarcely inferior to herd's grass. Among 
the useful indigenous grasses I may enumerate the panacum 
agristoides, poa pratensis, calamagrostis inexpansa. 

Common and numerous, but less valuable, there occur a large 
list of coarser grasses, various species of the carex family, of the 

• Mrs. Blish; Jaj. f Letter of A. P. Morse, Esq. 



No. 112.] 845 

scirpus, and species of the agrostis, of junceae and felices, the 
rushes and ferns. 

The panicura crus galli, or "barn yard grass," may almost 
assume a position Avith the cereal plants. It is peculiarly 
analogous in appearance and properties to the millet. Yields an 
abundant crop, but is only preserved as a cheap and nutritious 
food for poultry. 

The " June grass " is a light, small and delicate grass, that ap- 
pears early and anticipating the heavier vegetation, is an import- 
ant auxiliary in the spring pasturage. 

A native grass, grows intermingled with the ferns and rushes, 
in great profusion, upon the marshes which abound in the county. 
It is copious and luxuriant in its vegetation, and affords an 
abundant product. I have not been able, by the specimens I col- 
lected, to determine its botanical name. This grass is congenial 
to neat cattle and sheep, but is fatal to horses, although they eat it 
freely. It is armed watli inverted awns or barbs. These are in- 
noxious to ruminating animals, which thoroughly masticate their 
food before it passes from the stomach -, but the grass with the 
awns attached, entering into the intestines of the horse undigested, 
fastens upon the inner membranes, and irritating them, produces 
inflammation, ulceration, and ultimate death. The very serious 
losses which have resulted from this cause, seem to require a 
notice of the fact. 

A plant thrives in great beauty and luxuriance about tlie gar- 
rison ^rounds at Crown Point, and seems peculiar to that locality. 
It is tiifolium procumbens, or yellow clover, and was doubtless 
introdiuvd during the occupation of the fortress by the French or 
Engli>h armies. Useful for hay, it possesses invaluable qualities 
for pa-^tiirage, and must be eminently adapted for " soiling."' It 
mantles the earth with a heavy, rich, and beautiful covering, and 
affords a delicate and nutritious food, which is constantly re- 
newed from early spring to the severe frosts of autumn, in a 
series (>f the richest crops. I am informed that it is remarkable 
for its abundant yield of seed.* It is evident that the cultiva- 
tion of this clover would ensure the most bentlicial results. 

• lion. John C. Uammond. 



846 [Assembly 

I hesitate to decide, whether I am authorized in classing the white 
clover, trifolium repens, with the indigenous plants of this region* 
It is certain that it soon appears, by a spontaneous growth in every 
opening of the forest, tind upon soils of sand and gravel forma- 
tion. Where gypsum has been applied, or sheep have ranged, it 
is immediately introduced, forming a massive sward, which con- 
stitutes a most important basis for future tillage. The presence of 
a white clover turf unif )rmly secures on sandy soils an excellent 
corn crop with an application of plaster. 

Red Clover, Herds grass and Red Top are the grasses almost 
exclusively in use for laying down laud. The quantity of seed, 
the time and circumstances of sowing, are governed by no esta- 
blished rules, but are controlled by the nature of the soil, the ob- 
jects contemplated, and the judgment or caprice of individnals- 
The same diversity of opinion on these subjects exists in Essex 
county, that prevails in every agricultural community. I think, 
the " Red Top " grass, has grown in the favorable estimation of 
farmers, and that its culture is becoming more generally dissemi- 
nated. Experience proves it to be better adapted to high and dry 
soils, than was formerly supposed. It certainly forms a more en- 
during turf than Herds grass, and is believed to yield a heavier 
crop of hay. 

Wheat. — For a series of years succeeding the first occupation of 
the county, wheat was the predominant crop, particularly in that 
section of it which lies upon Lake Cliamplain. The average 
yield on new land, was about twenty-five bushels to the acre. 
This culture gradually declined, under the effects of a change of 
seasons, the exhaustion of the quality of the soil adapted to the 
production of wheat, and the ultimate infliction of the wevil and 
rust. It was virtually abandoned, until the introduction of the 
Black Sea wheat, which has given it a new and successful im- 
pulse. Winter wheat is rarely cultivated. The Tea wheat, in 
connection with the Black Sea, are the varieties chiefly approved. 
The harvests, which immediately succeeded the introduction of 
the latter, averaged about forty-five bushels to the acre. The 
product has progressively deteriorated, until at this period, the 
common product will not exceed fifteen bushels the acre. I im- 



No. 112.] 847 

pate this fact to the use of the seed from the same vicinity for a 
succession of years. A general, although I think not uniform 
exemption from the attacks of the wevil, is claimed for the Black 
Sea wheat. Spring wheat is usually sown about the 1st of May, 
but many farmers delay until June, believing by that practice 
they escape the fly. The cultivation of wheat in several districts 
of the county, particularly in the towns of Crown Point, Essex 
aad Willsboro', has a second time attained considerable promi- 
nence. In the former, which embraces, as we have seen, heavy 
manufacturing works, it is estimated that the production equals 
the consumption. The saleof wheat from the town of Willsboro', 
in 1852, was computed at three thousand bushels. The culture 
is now constantly extending. Upon the fertile plains of North 
Elba, it yields an average crop of forty bushels ; on the elevated 
valley, in the vicinity of the Adirondac Works, the average is 
about twenty-two bushels. Mr. Ealph obtained, in 1852, a crop, 
on the company's farm, of thirty-one and a quarter bushels to the 
acre. 

Rye. — In many towns of Essex county, Rye was formerly the 
predominant crop. Wilmington, for a loag period, was almost 
exclusively devoted to its culture * The towns of Schroon and 
Lewis, until recently, have made it an important element of their 
husbandry. It is now very generally abandoned as a prominent 
crop, except upon light and gravelly soils. In some districts, in 
which these earths prevail, it is still profitably cultivated. In 
the enhanced demand for horse feed, Rye has, within a few years, 
come much more into demand, and it is believed in this connec- 
tion it will become a valuable and remunerative product. Rye 
is much esteemed for this jturpose, as constituing a heavy and 
nutritious feed when ground with oats and corn in the ear. Many 
observing farmers insist that a bushel of Wheat may be produced 
on the same soil which will yield that quantity of Rye. A 
decided advantage in the cultivation of Rye, results from the fact 
tliat the sandy soils favorable to its production, are not liable to 

• I omitted to state, in the appropriate placf , tliat numerous distillerica were early esta- 
bliabed in this town, and in other sections of the county. During the war of 1812, the 
whiskey manufacture was an extensive and highly lucratire occupation in this region. Not 
» Testige of these works, I belieye, remains. 



848 [Assembly 

be aifected by the frosts and heaving of the earth in the winter. 
This husbandry will always be promoted by the fact that it may 
be conducted at a period when the other occupations of the farm 
are not urgent. A variety of this grain, known as the "Multi- 
cole Rye," has been introduced in this county within a few years, 
and promises the most favorable influence in extending this cul- 
ture. It is distinguished by its hardy character and vigorous 
growtl). It bears a head and kernel almost twice the size of the 
ordinary black rye, and largely exceeds the product of the latter. 

The i.nmense consumption of horse feed by the great teaming oc- 
cnpation of this region, creates a ready and important demand 
for Rye, Wheat and Oat-straw, which cut and mingled with grain, 
aflbrds a highly valuable provender. The average pro'duct of 
this crop may be estimated at about fifteen bushels per acre. No 
grain is more essentially aflected by the period of sowing. In 
Essex county, from the 1st to 10th September is regarded as the 
season most favorable to this process. When this term is passed, 
the experienced cultivator prefers to delay to the latest hour al- 
lowed by the approach of winter. The grain, which is early 
sown, becomes firmly and deeply rooted, and thus protected from 
the action of the frosts, while numerous sprouts proceed from the 
same germ. Deposited late, the grain does not sprout until spring, 
and thus the risk is avoided to which the intermediate sowing is 
exposed, of an insufficient rooting, sparse and feeble sprouts, and 
the effects of winter. The pasturage of sheep upon Rye, on light 
and open soil, alike in the spring and fall, is esteemed highly 
beneficial to the crops, by pressing the earth about the roots of 
the plants, and in producing an increased vegetation. This crop 
is considered in the town of Newcomb (Adirondac), alone inferior 
to oats in its successful culture, yielding usually about eighteeu 
bushels to the acre.* 

Oats. — The amount of this crop, produced in Essex county, ex- 
ceeds the sum of all the other grains combined, and probably 
equals it in value. It is cultivated on all varieties of soil, and in 
every district of the county. The heaviest crops I examined 
standing in the field, were those in the openings of the forests 

• A. Kalph, 



No. 112.], 849 

upon the slopes of the Adirondacs. Entire fields I estimated, 
would yield fifty bushels to the acre. The vegetation of these 
fields was remarkable for their great luxuriance. The product of 
this crop in the town of North Elba has been extraordinary, yield- 
ed as it is, from the native fertility of the soil, with little aid 
from artificial culture. I received authentic statistics of several 
crops affording, under these circumstances, over one hundred 
bushels to the acre; in one instance, in the year 1851, a yield at 
the rate of one hundred and thirty-two bushels, and in another of 
one hundred and twenty bushels to the acre, while the average 
yield of the whole town is at least forty-five bushels per acre. 
The successful cultivation of this grain in the town of Newcomb, 
is highly favorable to the future progress of the Adirondac works. 
The heavy and expensive transportation of hay and grain was 
formerly a very serious impediment to the prosperity of that esta- 
blishment. The average yield of Oats in that town is about 
thirty bushels on new land, and forty bushels on old land. 

Oats are indiscriminately cultivated on all lands, for seeding 
down and as a subduing crop. For the former purpose it is less 
esteemed, however, than some other cereals. Early sowing is 
desired, as it generally secures a more abundant growth, and a 
heavier and larger berry. The usual term of sowing is from the 
20th of April to the 20th of May, although the time is often ex- 
tended far into June, and frequently with successful results. 
Oats and peas, mingled in such proportions as the judgment or 
experience of the cultivator suggests, is often a favorite crop. 
This culture is peculiarly successful upon light soils. Oats alone, 
are found well adapted to rich soils, although the application of 
barn-yard manure, especially when green and unfermented, is 
considered injudicious. Thirty ^bushels may be assumed as the 
average crop of the county. 

Peas. — The cultivation ot this grain is'extending in the county, 
and is highly esteemed as a renovating and subduing crop. Peas 
are regarded as a valuable substitute for corn, in producing pork. 
They are peculiarly efiicient and useful, as a subduing crop, after 
the first plowing of new lands, infested with weeds and bushes. 
They leave the earth clean, extirpate the noxious vegetation, and 

tAg. Tr. '531 B3 



[Assembly 

leave the ground in an appropriate tilth for succeeding culture. 
Early tillage is esteemed very important to the success of this 
crop. The average product Is about twenty bushels per acre. 

Barley. — I found few fields of Bai-ley, except in the town of 
North Elba, where it is extensively cultivated, and yields valua- 
ble returns. This crop averages, in that town, thirty bushels, but 
often reaches sixty bushels to the acre. It L-upplies for many pur- 
poses the use of corn. The neglect of this culture is, I think, to 
be regretted. In a region where animal feed is so much in re- 
quest, Barley might be advantageously cultivated as a provender 
for teams and swine. 

Beans are seldom planted in Essex county as a distinct crop. 
None, I think, would be «aore valuable and remunerative. This 
crop is usually cultivated in connection with corn. The straw of 
the Bean is greatly valued by many faimers as a fodder for sheep. 
The recent introduction of the planter, which obviates the strong 
objection to the culture of this crop, the tedious and expensive 
planting by the hoe, is exerting a favorable influence in promoting 
its cultivation. The importance of the Bean as a prominent crop, 
is becoming appreciated by the intelligent farmers of the county.* 
A Mexican bean, appropriately named " Buena Vista," has been 
recently introduced through the agency of Gen. Churchill, of the 
army. It is small in size, and of a deep yellow color, is emi- 
nently prolific, oleaginous and nutritious, and supposed to be 
exempt from the laxative properties of other beans. 

Buckwheat and Indian Wheat, especially the former, are very 
largely cultivated, although the majority of farmers, I think, de- 
precate the husbandry as injudicious and improvident. These 
grains are used extensively as hog feed, boiled vi^ith apples, pump- 
kins and potatoes. An important advantage is attained by the 
cultivation of these crops, from their early maturity, which affords 
a nutritious food for swine, at a season, when on most farms there 
is a general deficiency. Sown in May, the Indian Wheat may be 
harvested in August. An esteemed correspondent at Adirondacf 

* Letter of J. G. Livingston. ] A. Kalph. 



No. 112.] 851 • 

speaking of this crop, remarks, " it makes excellent pork, and at 
a cheaper rate than it could be made with any other grain culti- 
vated here." In that district the average crop of these grains is 
about twenty-five bushels, which is a higher product than gener- 
ally occurs in the county. Tlie idea formerly prevalent, of the 
necessity of sowing Buckwheat at an advanced period of the sea- 
son, is repudiated in this county. The crop is found to succeed 
equally well, when sowed simultaneously with the usual spring 
crops. 

Potatoes. — This crop has for several years gradualJy advanced 
in importance and in the extent of its cultivation, until in the 
language of an Intelligent correspondent* " it has become, in 
1852, the crop of the county." During a series of years the "dis- 
ease" prevailed to a disastrous extent, impairing and in numerous 
instances causing a total failure of the crop. This circumstance 
produced an entire change in its tillage. Heavy, damp ani highly 
manured land, which was formerly deemed indispensable to its 
successful culture, has been abandoned in the cultivation of the 
potato. It is now almost uniformly, planted upon light gravelly 
and sandy soils. Green and unfermented manures are rejected. 
Charcoal, ashes, lime and plaster are now the only fertilizers ap- 
propriated to the crop. These substances are either applied in 
the hill or to the growing crop. Experience seems to have con- 
firmed the theory, that they are not only eminently efficacious as 
manures, but equally so as preventives of the rot. The pota- 
toes of this region have not recently been affected by the disease, 
and although the change in the husbandry may have decreased 
the productiveness of the crop, it has immensely enhanced its 
quality. For several years previous to 1852, tlie potato crop of 
Maine, from which the eastern markets are chiefly supplied, had 
been generally affected. The exemption of the crop in the 
ehamplain Valley from the disease, and its great excellence, 
created an active and extended demand in the Boston market. 
The railroads, then just completed, opened an easy and available 
medium of transportation. A similar demand soon existed in 
New-York. Stimulated by these causes, the prices of potatoes 

• A. B. Mack. 



852 [Assembly 

rapidly advanced, until in the spring of 1852, they commanded 
sixty two and a half cents per bushel at the wharves and stations 
upon Lake Champlain.* 

By a most fortunate coincidence, this new and unexpected re- 
source to the agricultural community, occurred at a period when 
the declension of the iron interest had thrown a dark pall 
over the industrial affairs of Essex county. The large amount of 
funds diffused by these means into general circulation, afforded 
an immediate and essential relief to its pecuniary concerns. Ex- 
cited by these circumstances, many hundreds of acres, beyond 
the ordinary crop, were planted to potatoes the present season. 
The foreign demand has ceased, and the article in the spring of 
1853, finds no demand except that formed by the usual home con- 
sumption, and at the starch factories. The market price afforded 
by thes ? mills, does not exceed twenty cents the bushel. It is 
assumed, however, that this demand, even at such depreciation, 
will render the potato culture an important and lucrative branch 
of husbandry, when its proximity will enable the farmer to 
transport his crop from the field directly to the factory. Various 
modes of tillage have been adopted in the cultivation of this crop, 
and different practices observed in the use of large and small 
seed potatoes, the planting whole or in parts, and in the drill or 
hills. An elaborate and very careful experiment made by a gen- 
tleman of Westport, with the Carter variety, in which he planted 
the smallest seed, and which resulted in a bountiful crop of large 
and excellent potatoes, seems almost demonstrative of the expe- 
diency of that system with this peculiar variety. f The experi- 
ment has been useful in another respect. This very choice and de- 
sirable potato, so often difficult in cultivation, produced equally, 
or nearly so, with the coarser kinds, while in the proceeds of 
several boat loads it was found to command in New- York, prices 
exceeding by one-third those of the common varieties. These 

* In the year ending in the spring of 1852, Mr. Allen states, 10,000 hushels of potatoes 
were shipped at Port Kent : and 10,060 bushels at Port Douglass (J. Walpole) . Vast quanti- 
ties were exported from various other ports in the county, but I have not been able to procure 
the statistics. 

■{■ Mr. F. H. Jackson made a series of highly interesting and important experiments in th* 
culture of this vegetable, on an extended scale, and -with intelligent observation. I much ra« 
gret that I have been unable to obtain a detail of the processes and results. 



Nb. 112.] 853 

facts have excited an enquiry into the propriety of cultivating this 
potato for tlie southern and eastern markets. 

Tlie exhibition of potatoes at the Essex county fair of the last 
season, was of the highest character, and probably not surpassed 
in excellence and variety by any section of the State. The pre- 
sent average of the potato crop falls far below that uhich existed 
at the early settlement of the county. It then more frequently 
exceeded than fell below an average of three hundred bushels 
to the acre. The ordinary product, from the existing tillage, 
scarcely reaches one hundred and tifty bushels. The potato culture, 
near the Adirondac Works, appears to be eminently successful. 
They plant upon the newly burnt fallow, " and by thorough hoe- 
ing, once or twice, destroy the growth of cherry or raspberry, 
which invariably springs where the forest has been burnt."* This 
tillage yields an average product of two hundred and fifty bushels 
to the acre. 

The potato in this county is promiscuously cultivated, with lit- 
tle discrimination in respect to varieties. The " Leopard," and a 
variety known as the " Moore potato," are the most approved 
kinds in common culture. The " Pinkeye," the " Peach Blow," 
and " Western Red," are extensively cultivated. Potatoes are 
much planted and with most satisfactory results upon turf drao-- 
ged thoroughly, but without disturbing the inverted sward. 

Corn. — This crop, in many of its relations, may be pronounced 
the agricultural staple of Essex county, and the basis of the rota- 
tion and renovating system of its husbandry. It has become, 
with carrots as a slight auxiliary, almost the exclusive medium 
by which green manures are incorporated with the soil. It is 
used in the preliminary preparation of the earth for wheat and 
oats. • Corn is generally planted upon green sward, and this is 
perhaps the most approved process. When the land is deemed 
not sufficiently pulverized, this crop is occasionally preceded by 
.peas or oats. Barn yard manure is applied as the judgment or 
ability of the cultivator may indicate. Many spread it upon the 
surface previous to plowing, and turn it beneath the inverted fur- 

• A. Ralph. 



854 [Assembly 

row. The more prevalent and esteemed practice is now, how- 
ever, to spread the manure, if not too coarse, after plowing, and 
to mingle it with the soil by thorough dragging. Plaster alone, 
or more judiciously united with ashes and a light mixture of lime, 
is applied, sometimes, in the hill, but almost universally upon 
the growing plant, immediately after it a['pears. The effect is 
most decided, communicating a rank and vigorous growth and 
healthful color to the plant, and vastly augmenting the product 
of the crop. No judicious former, I think, in the county doubts 
this result. No practice, novel or peculiar, is observed in the 
culture of this crop. The small eight-roAved is in general culti- 
vation. An improved variety of the Button, distinguished by a 
small cob and for early maturity, has been recently introduced, 
and is deemed a valuable acquisition. Corn is favorably cultiva- 
ted in most sections of the county. The towns of Newcomb and 
North Elba, and probably portions of St. Armand and Wilming- 
ton, are not at this period apparently adapted to the culture. It 
is believed, that this exception will not continue, when that part 
of the county has felt the ameliorating influence upon its climate 
which always attends the opening of the forests and the progress 
of improvement and cultivation. I have no doubt that the waim, 
loamy and vigorous soil of North Elba, may be successfully ap- 
propriated to this husbandry. 

The stalks are usually cut up near the root, although the antiqua- 
ted mode of topping still has its advocates and followers. When 
cut in the juice they form one of the most valuable ingiedients 
for fodder, and are esteemed very nutritious and peculiarly eon- 
genial to milch cows The use of the straw cutter immensely 
economizes the consumption of this article. Very productive 
crops of corn are not unfrequently raised upon old pastures, with 
no other application of raanuie than plaster and ashes. The re- 
claimed Sitndy lands, under this tillsge, often yield fifty bushels 
to the acre. Corn is found, in this latitude, peculiarly adapted to 
these soils. If the harvest is not large, the land is cheaply tilled, 
the crop matures early and invariably attains the highest perfec- 
tion. This crop is exposed to the same depredations of its com- 
mon enemies which universally prevail, and I have derived from 
the practices of the county no new suggestions for its protection. 



No. 112.] 855 

The introduction of the " corn planter" will tend very essentially 
to promote the cultivation of this crop, by the vast saving of time 
and labor it secures. It is asserted by those who form their 
opinion upon the result of actual experience, that the use of this 
implement reduces three-fourths the expense of the cultr.re of 
corn. The usual period of planting extends from the 10th to the 
20th of May. It is extremely difficult to assume an average of a 
crop of this character. In the whole county it will probably ap- 
proximate to thirty bushels to the acre. Some entire towns would 
far exceed this estimate, while individual farms wull exhibit twice 
that average. 

Carrots, beets and turneps. — The culture of the carrot is yearly 
extending, and forms, in many districts of the county, a promi- 
nent article in the feeding and fattening material lor stock. It is 
often favorably substituted for grain, as a feed for working teams. 
Beets are esteemed of great value, wherever they have been used 
as a provender for swine. The succulent leaves of this plant, are 
highly useful for this purpose. Each of these roots are peculiarly 
adapted to milch coavs, equally as a nutritious food, and as pos- 
sessing properties, which largely augment the product of milk. 
The exceeding hardiness of the carrot, which maintains its growth 
until the earth is frozen, eminently adapts it to the mounlainous 
regions of the county. Its cultivation in those districts is exten- 
sive, and of the utmost importance and utility. 

The "ruta baga" has become an uncertain crop. These fail- 
ures, and a very general prejudice as to its practical value for stock, 
have produced nearly an abandonment of its culture. At the 
Adirondac works, this crop has been favorably cultivated, Aviih a 
general yield of six hundred bushels to the acre. 

The " English field turnep," is successfully and extensively 
tilled upon newly burnt fallows. 

Flax is seldom cultivated, and I am not aware of a field of 
hemp, the last season, in the county, although formerly, very 
energetic efforts were made to effect its introduction. lu the town 
of Minerva, flax is raised to some extent, and yields 200 lbs. to 
the acre, at the value of one shilling the pound.* It appears 

•A. P. Morse. 



856 [Assembly 

from the journal of Mr. Gilliland, that Ihis crop was largely 
cultivated, in his colony, prior to the revolution. From the tenor 
of a petition, dated 1st March, 1765, addressed by him to the 
"Society for promoting arts, agriculture and economy, in the 
province of New-York," it seems that institution was in the 
habit of " sending out to the poor settlers in the new terri- 
tories, looms, spinning wheels, and reels," to promote the domes- 
tic manufacture of flax.* 

Hay. — I have already discussed, incidentally, the subject of the 
grass culture of the county, in its various connections. This 
crop is of the first importance, and always commands a certain 
market, and at high prices. The product of hay, in the county, 
falls immensely below the consumption. A large amount of 
pressed hay, is imported annually, and is derived chiefly from 
Canada and Washington county. The price of hay is rarely re- 
duced to '^$8, and often ranges from $15 to $20 per ton. The 
yield, is generally estimated, at an average of about one ton to 
the acre. The habitual sale of hay from a farm, of which the 
fertility is not preserved by other agencies, necessarily exerts a 
most pernicious tendency, and impedes, if it does not utterly de- 
stroy the progress and agricultural improvement of the land. 
The county embraces many tracts of alluvial and natural mead- 
ows, which are annually overflowed, and their native fertility thus 
preserved, even when subjected to this deteriorating system. Some 
districts of upland, illustrated by the ridges in the town of Jay, 
which have been described, and of great original vigor, have been 
for many years, exposed to this practice of cropping, without ex- 
hibiting any apparent or essential exhaustion. The application 
of gypsum, is known to be most eflicient in preserving the fer- 
tility of these tracts. The dust of charcoal, is believed to be still 
more active and enduring in its fertilizing effect upon this land. 
The aggregate area of meadow land in the county, and its rela- 
tive productiveness, have been largely augmented, under the 
pressure of the demand for hay, and by the improved skill in its 
management. 

* I have with much interest, examined the original draft of this document, embracing 
higlily valuable information in other respects. It contains the only evidence I have seen 
of the existence of the society referred to. 



No. 112.) 857 

The hay consumed by the Adirondac company, fornferly cost 
$30 per ton, delivered at their works. The fact is now estab- 
lished, that their own territory, in immediate proximity to their 
works, will yield all the hay, and of a most excellent quality, 
required for their consumption. 

In the improved tracts of the county, the general estimate, as- 
signs one-third to meadows, one-third to pasture, and the remain- 
der to tillage and waste land. 

Hops, are not cultivated as a field crop, in this county, although 
a very important one in the adjoining county of Franklin. 

STOCK. 

In no department of its husbandry has this county ex- 
hibited such decided progress, as in the quality and character 
of its stock. I cannot ascertain that a thorough bred animal was 
owned in the county, until about the year 1849. Grades of Tees- 
water and Durham had been introduced probably before that pe- 
riod. It now contains individuals of nearly every breed, that may 
almost maintain an equal competition with the stock of any sec- 
tion of the State. A race of horses almost indigenous to its soil 
is disseminated through the county, which combine properties 
of rare excellence. The high reputation of the Black Hawk 
horses has become widely diffused, and each year adds to their 
consideration. In no district have they been more extensively 
bred, or attained greater perfection than in this region. A new 
and wise policy in breeding has been adopted, tending in itself to 
advance the quality of the stock. The high prices of choice 
Black Hawks has mainly dictated this system. I refer to the ap- 
propriation of the best mares to the most valuable horses for the 
purposes of breeding. The effect of this custom is now witnessed 
in the prevalence of a family of horses not exceeded, if equalled, 
by any race in the Union. The owners of the original animal of 
this name, the great progenitor of the stock, claim a jiedigree on 
the side of his sires, which extends to a horse imported L^y Gen. 
Delancy, in 1761, and embraces in his European ancestois, " Fly- 
ing Childers," and the equally distinguished '-Godulphin Arabian." 
The dam of Bkck Hawk is represented by his proprietors to have 



858 [Assembly 

been a tlwee-lTourths blood English mare, of great speed and ex- 
celk^nce. Others assert that the residue of her blood, or a still 
greater infu-ion, was of the Canadian or Norman stock. This 
cross has doubtless communicated to the breed its eminent traits 
of vigor and endurance. The Black Hawk is himself a scion of 
the jMorgan family. A fact illustrated by the Avhole progeny of 
this stock, seems to assert its pretensions to high blood. The de- 
cisive stamp of the marked and peculiar characteristics of the 
stock, uniformly exhibited by these horses, must denote a strong 
and well defined blood, w^hich thus impresses its qualities upon 
an entire race ; and not the result of an accidental cross, producing 
an in lividudl of great excellence. A practiced eye seldom errs 
in distinguishing an animal of this stock. The original Black 
Ha\vk has a jet black glossy color, with a large flowing, wavy 
mane and tail ; he is of good size, and larger than he appears, 
from the symmetry and almost faultlessness of his proportions. 
His action is free, graceful and vigorous. The qualities which 
pervade and distinguish this stock, is extreme docility and great 
intelligence, admirable symmetry, great vigor and endurance. 
They are conspicuous for speed as trotters, and immense capacity 
for the road. The perfect form, brilliant coat, bright and promi- 
nent eye, a heavy and waving tail, endow these amimals with ex- 
ceeding beauty. A glossy black is the predominant color of the 
stock, although far from being exclusive. Almost faultless in 
their appearance and qualities, the strongest objection to this stock 
is the want of that size and physical frame that is required in a 
draught horse. Although the breeding of this stock has become 
so general in the county, as to almost form a distinct department 
of husbandry, the interest is undiminished, whilst the delnand 
for them increases yearly, with ascending prices. Colts at four 
months sell promptly from $50 to $100 ; yearlings, from $100 to 
$1,000 ; older and choice stallions range in price from $1,500 to 
$4,500, The rearing of Ihe-e horses is made a highly remunera- 
tive and prominent pursuit among the farmers of Essex county. 
The following is an excellent portrait of Black Hawk, the pro- 
genitor of the stock : 



No. 112.] 



859 




The antagonistic pretensions of a different branch of the "Mor- 
gan" and the "Messenger" breeds, have even here strong advo- 
cates. A horse of the " Eclipse " stock, and a thorough bred an- 
imal, the " Leopard," that received the second premium at the 
State Fair of 18^0, owned in Clinton county, ijear the boundary 
of Essex, have left a considerable impression of their blood in the 
county. Fine animals of all this stock occur among the breeders. 

Several remarkably fine Short-horns and Herefords have been 
introduced into various sections of the county, and are yearly ex- 
extending in numbers and growing in popular esteem. A Short- 



860 [Assembly 

horn bull, known as " Alexander the Great," imported from the 
western part of the State, and now in the possession of Mr. Rich- 
mond of Moriah, would be distinguished in any herd as a nearly 
perfect and most beautiful animal. A number of very choice 
Devons were brought into the town of West Elba, by Mr. John 
Burn, in the year 1849. Several were exhibited by him at the 
county fair of 1850, and their rare beauty and remarkable appear- 
ance produced a strong sensation. The influence of their exhi- 
bition, led to the immediate purchase and introduction into the 
county of several superior animals of the breed. I am not aware 
of the existence in the district of a single individual of the Ayr- 
shire stock. In the course of my survey, reference to the sub- 
ject of that stock was continually made, and a strong desire 
manifested by the most intelligent farmers for its«introduction. 
The important and salutary improvement in the general stock, 
so conspicuous in the county, is universally ascribed to the influ- 
ence of the agricultural society. The exhibitiou of choice and 
rare animals which the fairs attract, arouses attention to their 
superior qualities. A competition and emulation has been ex- 
cited that is introducing into the county a class of cattle, which 
will soon impress upon its stock the highest character. 

It is apparent, from the table of the census returns, embraced 
in this report, that the wool growing interest of Essex county 
has already attained very con-^iderable importance. The climate, 
the physical formation, the soil and position of this region will 
combine to render this territory one of the most eligible and 
prosperous wool growing districts of the State. Sheep thrive 
upon broken cliffs and rocky acclivities, where no other domestic 
animal, save the g< at, could subsist. They browse and fatten 
upon the scanty bushes that mantle these positions, and upon 
the coarse herbage that starts from amongthe fissures of the rorks- 
The extended tracts of sandy plains, now waste and unproduc- 
tive, are peculiarly adapted to sheep ranges. The light and dry 
soil is congenial to their habit and health, and they flourish uj^on 
the short and coarse vegetation that abounds on these plains, but 
is rejected by other stock. The term of foddering of sneep, is 
far shorter than that of other animals. 



No. 112.] 861 

An experiment made by a person of unusual enterprise and 
sagacity,* upon the borders of this county, tlie last season, on a 
pine tract, has been raarlied by entire success, and will prove, it 
is believed, the initiative of a new system in this husbandry. 
He owned a wide extent of unoccupied sand plain, from which 
the wood and timber had been removed, but had received no 
subsequent tillage, although covered by a spontaneous growth of 
shrubs and natural grasses. He turned upon this barren, a thou- 
sand sheep, under the constant charge of a shepherd. Tiie deli- 
cate sprouts, the grasses, and varied wild herbage, afforded them 
a healthful and nutritious food. At the close of autumn, the 
flock exhibited a thriving and improved condition. They were 
folded at night, on fields intended for cultivati<^u, and by its fer- 
tilizing effect upon the soil, this management more than remu- 
nerated all the expense of their keeping. In five years, meadow 
lands can be formed by this system, that will yield all the neces- 
sary fodder for the flock. The territory of Essex county, embra- 
ces vast tracts, now worthless, that, by this agency, may be con- 
verted into productive sheep walks. The sheep proprietors of 
this region, have generally guarded their flock with great care 
and vigilance, from every infusion of Saxon blood. They show 
no trace of its existence, except in rare instances. It is apparent 
that most of the wool growers have not exerted an appropriate 
skill and judgment in promoting the improvement and progress 
of their flocks. Their sheep have been too much regarded as a sub- 
ordinate interest. Many flocks, however, in the county, possess 
the highest qualities. That of the Hon. Eli W. Rogt rs, has 
been managed with great skill and success, and exhibits a combi- 
nation of the choicest traits. 

The flock of Mr. Hodgkins of Lewis, the basis of which is 
from I to \ Saxon, and formed by an infusion of the French Me- 
rino and Atwood stock, can scarcely be excelled. This flock, as 
well as that of Mr, Rogers, combines, in a remarkable degree, 
weight of fleece, with extreme fineness, and great softness, luster 
and beauty of texture. They average over four pounds to the 
animal. Mr. Hodgkins informs me, that he finds his Saxon ewes 
excellent mothers. 

•Peter Comstock, E»(j. 



863 [Assembly 

Numerous other flocks, are scattered in the county, of great 
value and superior properties. The characteristics of these flocks 
are a sufficient fineness of wool for profitable sales, a weight of 
fleece produced by length of fiber, solidity of fleece, and a full' 
ness of growth about the extremities, with a purity of wool and 
freeness from gum. The flock of the Messrs. Murdock, at Crown 
Point, numbered 1,450 head of fine sheep, when I saw them in 
August last. Other flocks range from 300 to 700 head. Crown 
Point, Essex and Willsboro' form the prominent wool growing 
districts of the county. A strong and general distrust of foreign 
importations has prevailed in the county. Recently, however, 
several carefully selected and superior animals have been intro- 
duced. A Silesian buck, by Messrs. Hammond & Baker, of 
Crown Point, from the importation of Mr. Sanford. A buck and 
several ewes from Mr. Jewett, by Paul E. Boynton, of Willsboro'. 
A buck respectively by Mr. Root, of Essex, Mr. Hodgkins, of 
Lewis, and Mr. R. S. Watson, of Port Kent, of a cross of the 
French Merino and the Atwood stock, are among the late acquisi- 
tions to the stock of the county. 

The Bake well, Cotswold and Southdowns, are attracting much 
attention. They have only very lately been introduced. Suffi- 
cient experience has been had with the 'Southdowns, to establish 
the fact, that they form an excellent cross with the grade Merino, 
where mutton is the primary object. This cross, is judged more 
judicious, than a grade between the merinos and long-wooled va- 
rieties. The issue of the latter, has generally proved light, coarse- 
wooled, and open fleeced, with no proportioned improvement of 
the size and quality of the animal. The ready and cheap access 
to the markets of Boston, and the southern cities, will render the 
production of choice mutton, a business of obvious and great im- 
portance to this county. A race of sheep, incidentally found in 
the county, and predominating in Canada, which are distinguished 
by long and coarse wool, large bodies and hardy habits, seem pe- 
culiarly adapted to a cross with the long and middle wooled sheep 
of England. This cross, it is believed, would produce an animal 
of the highest value for the shambles. 



No. 112.] 863 

Dairy. — This business, has not received the attention that its 
great importance demands, and which would apparently have been 
suggested by tlie peculiar adaptedness of the county to the pur- 
suit, and the high prices of its products. Numerous small dairies 
exists in the county, yielding, in many cases, excellent articles. 
That of A. B. Mack, of Westport, embracing about forty cows, is 
on the largest scale, and affords butter and cheese of the first 
quality. He makes cheese from the middle of April, to the mid- 
dle of October. The smaller dairies devote about four months to 
that purpose. Batter, in most of them, is the prominent object, 
and always commands a certain market. The usual price of cheese 
in the county, is about 7| cents, and the average of butter, about 
15 cents. Nothing peculiar occurs in the manufacture of these 
articles. Native cattle, form a large proportion of the dairies. 
Various modes of keeping cattle through the winter prevails, but 
an increasing regard to their comfort and protection is generally 
apparent. The notes of a very competent judge, and successful 
manager, contains the following statement : " I have sometimes 
kept an entire stock of cattle, upon straw and coarse fodder, with- 
out a pound of hay, by giving them regularly, about a peck of 
potatoes each per day. My cows, under this treatment, invaria- 
bly, come out in the spring in as good condition, as when I feed 
them hay." * 

Calves are raised to some extent throughout the county, but no 
unusual feature in their management is observed. The great im- 
portance of the dairy products, and the value of milk in pork 
making, limits the rearing of calves. Large numbers of cattle are 
yearly sold for the eastern and southern shambles. Tliis dispo- 
sition of neat cattle, is considered more profitable and judicious, 
than slaughtering them for home consumption. Pork, among the 
laboring classes, in this region, being much more psteemed than 
salted beef, as an article of food. Twenty-five dollars is the 
average value of neat cattle, at three years old. 

HUSBANDRY. 

The last three years, have been distingui.died by a more 
decided progress in the agricultural interests and character 

• J. G. Livingston. 



864 [Assembly 

of the county, than has occurred within any period of twenty 
year?, in its preceding history. The lumbering business is nearly 
terminated within its limits. The unprecedented depression, du- . 
ling that term of its great manufacturing staple, which extin- 
guished nearly all the fires of its forges and furnaces, arrested the 
ordinary persuits of thousands of its population. This attitude 
of tlie affairs of the county, so deplorable and ruinous in most of 
its aspects, has supplied the laborers required in the operations of 
agriculture, and created the necessity of their embracing its occu- 
pations for support. These causes have diverted the feelings, the 
interests and taste of this community, from other pursuits to ag- 
riculture. That has now become the permanent and paramount 
employment of many, who had previously regarded it as only 
secondar}*and incidental. The great and auspicious change, which 
is again impressed upon the manufacturing interest of the county, 
may remove this necessity, but the influence of the habit will 
endure. 

I should be unjust to the services of the citizens, whose zeal has 
organized the agricultural society of Essex county, were I not to 
recognise its influence among the potent instrumentalities, which 
have promoted this advancement in the agriculture of the county. 
Its effect has been telt in every section, exciting emulation, arous- 
ing inquiry, creating efibrt, introducing science, and developing 
resources, and in elevating the position and character of the farm- 
ing community. 

These results have been promoted by various improvements in 
the system of husbandry, which have been effected by the farm- 
ers of the county. Rotation of crops is now regarded by every 
judicious manager, as an essential principle in the intelligent and 
progressive administration of a farm. A gradual, but most salu- 
tary change has been formed on this subject, in public opinion. 
Fields were pointed out, in the course of my survey, which, for- 
merly for more than thirty years, had been devoted to an unin- 
terrupted succession of corn crops. Most of the fertilizing re 
sources of the farm, during that period, had thus been absorbed, 
in the production of one crop, from the same field. Under such a 
system of husbandry, and which a quarter of a century since was 



No. 112.] 865 

so prevalent, meadows and pastures were equally exhausted and 
deteriorated. A uniform alternation of crops is now observed 
among the skilful farmers of the county, upon all lands, with oc- 
casional exceptions, where a favorable position, or the native 
qualities of the earth do not require the practice. The mode in 
this system of rotation adopted in the county, is assimilated to 
that generally pursued. When a decline in the quantity or quali- 
ty of the grass on a portion of meadow land, or a tightness of 
the sward, or the presence of moss occurs, the ground is broken 
up, usually in the autumn. Upon this ley, a hoed crop is planted 
for one or two years, depending upon the tenacity of the turf. 
A crop of small grain succeeds, for one or two seasons, as circum- 
stances require. With this tillage, the re-seeding of the land is 
effected. Although the fine grasses are generally preferred for 
the purposes of hay, the clover culture is associated with this 
system, as an important element in the improvement and reno- 
vation of the soil. 

A rotation of crops is esteemed of the highest importance, 
when applied to light, sandy, and gravelly soils.* Many farmers 
familiar with the culture of these soils, assert that they may be 
maintained in a constant progression in fertility, by a close rota- 
tion, connected with a high clover culture. This tillage, when 
applied to the cultivation of pastures, is attended with the most 
beneficial results. It is well understood, that pastures, particu- 
larly those appropriated to neat cattle, become infested with 
bushes, acrid grasses, and other worthless vegetation. This fact 
is eminently exhibited in light sandy ranges. Experience de- 
monstrates, that a rotation of crops is as efficient and useful when 
adapted to these pastures, as to meadow lands. Valuable crops 
are secured, the noxious herbage is extirpated, and not unfre- 
quently, the amount of the succeeding pasturage is quadrupled 
in the process. 

MANURES. 

Manures are created and preserved with great economy and 
care. Upon many farms, the barn-yard and pig-sty, under im- 
proved management, yield twice the quantity of manure, which 

•Letters of A. B. Mack, and J. G. Livingston. 
£Aff. Tr. «53.] £ 3 



866 [Assembly 

was formerly produced by the same consumption of food. These 
results are attained by practiceSj familiar to all well regulated 
husbandry. 

The analyses, I have introduced, manifest the existence of 
peat, or swamp mud of remarkable richness. It is diffused 
through the county in vast deposits. This material is attaining 
very extensive use, and is esteemed of great value in promoting 
the permanent improvement and fertility of the soil. It is pre- 
pared for efficient application to the earth, either when incorpo- 
rated with barn yard manures, as a constituent of a compost, or 
after exposure in piles for a season, to the action of the elements. 
Mingled with lime, it rapidly decomposes, and is soon prepared 
for use. The first mode combines many important advantages. 
A prominent and obvious one, is formed by the great absorbent 
properties of the peat, through the agenry of which, the liquid 
manures and the volatile gases are concentrated and essentially 
preserved. 

Many of the appliances formed by a greater advance in agri- 
cultural science, and more extended pecuniary means, for the 
creation and preservation of manures, have not been introduced 
into Essex county. 

Plaster, is in general use in the towns contiguous to Lake 
Champlain, and extensively in Ihose of the interior. It has 
not befen introduced into some of the more remote sections of the 
county. My own observation, corroborates the opinion of intel- 
ligent farmers, which ascribes to the application of this material, 
the most useful and important results. Broadcast upon mead- 
ows and pastures, its beneficial effects seldom fail. Light and dry 
soils, are usually more decidedly affected by its powerful, but mis- 
terious influences. Wet seasons, are regarded the most congenial 
to the development of its fertilizing principle. I have, in other 
places, noticed its application to specific crops. Those to which 
gypsum is most successfully applied, are corn, potatoes, beans and 
peas. Its use upon grass, in alternate years, is the most usual 
and approved practice. Several of the responses to my inquiries 
on this subject, impute to the use of plaster, an increase of one 



No. 112.J 867 

half, to the product of mauy crops. Gj^psum, in a prepared state, 
is sold by the local mills and importers, at about ^S the ton. 

We have seen, that the county contains mineral fertilizers, in 
inexhaustible quantities, analogous in character, and scarcely in- 
ferior in efficacy to the gypsum of the West. 

Charcoal. — Enormous masses of the dust, or detritus of the char- 
coal, accumulate about th« iron worlis of tlie county, and create, 
incumbrances and deformities. It has been annually spread in 
vast quantities, along the highways, constituting an admirable 
material for roads. An incalculable amount has been cast into 
the streams. The attention of men of observation and sagacity, 
has been, within a few years, drawn to the use of this ingredient, 
as a fertilizer. Experience has established its exceeding utility. 
In the midst of the disastrous drouth of the last summer, while 
crossing a field in Moriah, occupied by Mr. Richmond, in pursuit 
of some Durham cattle I wished to examine, I observed a lot, 
wuth its surface deeply and singularly blackened. Upon inspec- 
tion, I found it thickly strewn with pulverized charcoal. The 
field presented a rich verdure, strongly constrasting with the. 
parched and blighted aspect of the adjacent country. The fol- 
lowing detail of this experiment, supplied at my request, attests 
the value of this material, as a fertilizing principle : " The soil 
is loamy ; the charcoal was applied on four acres of dry land, and 
one acre of moist soil, by top dressing. The amount used, was 
about one thousand bushels to the acre, spread over so as to make 
the surface look black, but not to incumber or obstruct vegeta^ 
tion. It was applied, in September and October, 1850, at an exj 
pense, by contract, of forty dollars. It was procured at a furnace, 
from a mass of pulverized charcoal, left as useless, and was drawn 
one mile and a half. The effect was immediate. The grass fresh- 
ened, and continued green and luxuriant, after the surrounding 
fields were blackened by the early frosts. Although the last 
season has been so unfavorable for vegetation, Mr. Kichmond re- 
alized one-third more than the ordinary yield of hay, and suffi- 
cient to repay the whole outlay. He tliinks that he cut nearly 
double the quantity of grass, on this lot, than upon any similar 



868 [Assembly 

meadow upon his farm, and that the quality of the hay is im- 
proved." * 

The Hon. J. S. Whallon,has made the most decisive and valua- 
ble experiments on this subject. His operations extended through 
several seasons, and were observed "with great intelligence and 
discrimination. The results amply sustain the conclusions de- 
rived from the preceding experiment. I may add, that a similar 
application of charcoal has been made, under Mr. Whallon's su- 
pervision, upon another tract, in Elizabethtown, on a soil of a 
lighter texture, and with entire success. In this instance, the 
charcoal was chiefly applied to a crop of oats. The action of this 
substance, seems to be effected by its physical combination and 
its chemical affinities. It attracts the rays of the sun, and unites 
with the fertilizing gases of the atmosphere; it absorbs moisture 
and combines, as a new constituent, in the formation of the soil. 
Almost impverishable, it must remain indefinitely, with no ex- 
haustion of its pix)pertieSj a perpetual invigorating agent in the 
earth. 

The succeeding extract, from a communication of Mr. Whallon, 
elucidates his experiments and views on this very important sub- 
ject : " I began the use of it in the year 1846, and first applied it 
as a top dressing, on a strong clay soil, which was plowed in the 
fall of 1845; I spread on about fifteen wagon loads of the dust to 
the acre, after the wheat had been sowed and harrowed one way. 
I was surprised to find my crop a heavy one, compared with my 
neighbors, raised on the same kind of land. The wheat was of 
better quality, and yielding four or five bushels extra to the acre. 
I have since used it on similar land, sometimes mixed with barn- 
yard manure, and sometimes alone, but always as a top dressing, 
and usually on land seeded for meadow. The results were always 
the most favorable. I find my lands thus seeded, produce more 
than an average crop of hay, and always of the finest quality." 

" I have also used the dust on loamy and intervale land, with 
the potato crop. During the series of years in which the rot al- 
most ruined the potato crop, I scarcely lost any potatoes from that 
cause, and supposed it w^as owing to the coal dust I used. My 

* J. P. Butler's letter, December, 1B52. 



-No. 112. J 8^9 

manner has been to drop the seed and cover it with a small shovel 
full of dust, and then cover with earth. In this way, I have used 
all the coal dust I have been able to save from the coal consumed 
in a forge of five fires, and which amounts to about 250 loads per 
year." 

In the colder regions of the Adirondacs, charcoal dust has been 
used with great advantage. The notes of Mr. Ralph present the 
experiment in the following language: " As a top-dressing for 
meadows, charcoal dust and the accumulation of ashes and burnt 
earth left on old charcoal pit bottoms, have been used here with 
remarkable results ; and I judge from the trials which have been 
made, that this application hasadded at least one third to t|ie hay 
crop, where it has been used. It was remarked, (during the past 
very dry season, when vegetation was almost burnt up by the long 
continued drought,) that those fields which had been dressed with 
this substance, were easily distinguished by the rich green color 
of their herbage." 

Lime. — We have seen that lime is disseminated through the 
county in boundless deposits. The various analyses of Prof. Salis- 
bury indicate a remarkable and rare richness in its combinations 
and properties which adapt it to agricultural purposes. He pro- 
nounces it peculiar in these characteristics. The results of the ex* 
periments I have already noticed, illustrate its great practical 
utility, although its uses in husbandry have been very limited in 
the county. The recent analyses and discussions on the subject 
of this material, have given the public mind a strong direction of 
inquiry into its value and uses. It may safely be assumed that 
this rich and abundant element of agricultural improvement will 
no longer slumber, unappropriated, among the rocks of Essex 
county. 

The experience of Mr. A. Stevenson, of Westport, affords some 
valuable results and judicious suggestions. He remarks in a cor- 
respondence on the subji^ct, '• I have always found that lime, when 
applied to the wheat crop, made a decidtd improvement in the 
yield, and also in the quality. The effect Avas the same when ap- 
plied to the corn crop with manure, and upon the potato with or 
without manure. I will mention an experiment or two. Having 



870 [Assembly 

measured off an acre of land, I drew trenty-five loads of manure 
on it, in which, ten days before, twenty bushels of lime had been 
mixed. The crop was hoed twice, and I harvested one hundred 
and fifty bushels of sound ears of corn, almost double the yield 
of the remaining part of the field. I planted three acres of pota- 
toes in the same field, and gave them the ssLme culture. One of 
the acres wtis limed by putting a handful in each hill. I obtained 
from the acre which was limed as many potatoes, and of a larger 
size, than from both the other acres combined." 

The same highly intelligent correspondent assures me that he 
finds lime a perfect protection to the onion, from the ravages of 
the maggot, which have almost terminated, in this region, the cul- 
-tui-e of that vegetable. • 

No extended or appropriate experiment has been made in the 
county with the phosphate of lime: but where it has been tested 
on a limited scale, the result has oeen eminently favorable and 
satisfactory. 

Draining. — An increasing attention to this important feature in 
progressive husbandry, is a significant index of the advance of 
the county in agricultural science. I have o'bserved, in my sur- 
vey, amazing effects, resulting from this operation, where a sin- 
gle drain had changed the whole character and qualities of the 
soil, in an area of many acres. The evidences afforded by this 
practice (as well as the regard exhibited to the use of peat, and 
the formation of composts,) of agricultural progress, is in no sec- 
tion of the county more prominently presented, than in the 
fertile valley of the Schroon river. Every season, for a series 
of years, has witnessed a great extension of these works. Open 
ditches are in more general use, although covered drains are often 
constructed of stones, bushes or Avood, I have no information of 
tiles having been introduced into the county. 

PROTECTION or STOCK. 

In this respect, a very signal and salutary change has oc- 
curred in this county. I found the instances rare, in which 
the importance and economy of a vigilant protection of stock, 
from cold and storms, were not felt and adopted in practice. 



No. 112.] 871 

Barns and sheds are now generally constructed, in reference 
to this object. I feel it just and proper to state, that I ex- 
amined in North Elba, some of the best arranged barns and sheds 
in the county. Tliey are capacious and convenient, carefully 
battened and lined, aud admirably adjusted in the interior, to 
secure the comfort and safety of the animals. I saw stables in 
that town, in which I was assured manure had not frozen, during 
the intense severity of the preceding winter. 

IMPLEMENTS. 

This county has not sustained an equal progress in the in- 
troduction and use of labor saving and intproved impleinents, 
as in many other branches of its agricultural improvement. 
The cultivator, corn-planter, and subsoil plow, are in the 
hands of individuals, but do not occupy that prominent position 
in the husbandry of the county, demanded by their vast utility 
and economy. Wherever they have been fried, I find the strong- 
est attestation to their great value and efficiency.* The exliibi- 
tion of these, and analogous utensils at the county fairs, hava 
made them familiar to the agricultural community, and they ar© 
gradually extending through the county. 

PLOWING. 

I have fully, though incidentally, discussed this subject 
in several appropriate divisions of this report. A general 
but far from universal absence of deep aud thorough plowing, may 
be regarded as one of the prominent defective characteristics of 
former husbandry, still lingering in the agriculture of Essex coun- 
ty. Late fall plowing, of green sward, is deemed advisable in 

• An incident illustrates forcibly thb fact : Passing the farm of Mr. Bean, of Crown Point, 
at a time when vegetation was excessively parched and withered, I was struck by the great 
contrast presented by the luxuriance and verdure of his field of corn, to the general appear- 
ance of the crop iu the vicinity. Observing near his barn, a large compost h^ap, I conjectured 
that I had detected the secret of his success. It was not, however, until I found him sub- 
soiling another lot for a wheat crop, that I discovered the entire solution of the mystery. Mr. 
Bean assured me that " while the leaves of the com about him were generally rolled tofolher 
like a scroll," his crop had exhibited no efifect of the drought, except slightly on the eAtiemi- 
ties of the land, He regarded this circumstanco as affording the strongest evidence of tha 
utility of the system, as in these parts of the Geld, the work of sub-soiling had been less ef- 
fectually performed, owing to the natural balking of the team. Although some of Mr. Bean'i 
neighbors objected to his propensity to book farming, all accorded to him pra-emiuent susoew 
D procuring superior crops from a soil of an original infeiior quality. 



872 [Assembly 

ordinary circumstances, and is accomplished as far as practicable 
to adFance spring work. This system is more uniformly appro- 
priated to heavy and tenacious lands. The action of frosts and 
the elements upon the exposed soil tends, it is supposed, to pul- 
verize and disintegrate the earth, while the gases formed in the 
decomposition of the inverted turf are evolved just at that period 
in the growth of the young plant, when their fertilizing influences 
are the most required to promote a vigorous vegetation. Many 
hesitate to pursue this mode on warm and light soils of sandy 
or gravelly formation, from the impression that the exposure of 
these soils to the elements will waste their fertility, and that the 
fermentation from the decomposing sward, which is so beneficial, 
occurs too early to aid the growing crop. The fresh plowing of 
stubble land, immediately before sowing, is preferred, as promot- 
ing a more rapid and vigorous growth of the crop, which antici- 
pates and chokes the vegetation of noxious plants. 

MARKETS. 

The first agricultural products, derived from the labors of 
the early pioneer, were required to meet the wants of the 
succeeding settlers. The flouring mills at Vergennes, in Vermont, 
afforded a mart for the scanty excesses from the harvest of the 
colony on the Boquet. At a later epoch, when the wheat products 
of the county had attained some magnitude, Troy, and subsequent- 
ly Whitehall, supplied a market for its trafic. It was transport- 
ed to these places during the winter by trains of sleighs. At the 
opening of the canal, the Champlain valley had lost much of its 
freshness and fertility as a wheat-growing district. 

"Wheat, for a term of many years, had furnished to the settler the 
only means of liquidating the store accounts created for the supplies 
of his family. At times even this medium was refused, when desti- 
tution and often suffering followed. The price of wheat to the 
merchant in this trafic was usually seventy-five cents the bushel. 
Corn was generally exhausted by the domestic consumption, al- 
though it was occasionally exported into Canada in exchange for 
salt. Corn was worth, at the commencement of the present cen- 
tury, in some parts of the country, one shilling the bushel, or if 
transported a distance of thirty miles to Plattsburgh, commanded 



No. 112.] 873 

twice that sum in the purchase of cotton cloth at fifty cents the 
yard. 

The construction of the Champlain canal formed a new era in 
the affiiirs of this region. The fetters of position and seclusion 
■which had bound its energies, were broken, and its native capaci- 
ty received a vigorous and enduring impulse. The exactions and 
abuses of trade were controled. 

This new avenue of commerce at once enhanced to the producer 
the value of those materials which were exported, and at the 
same time reduced the prices of the articles of consumption 
which were imported. The canal, if it did not in its influences 
reveal the magnificent iron resources of the north, infused into 
their development animation and activity. The immense pro- 
gress and expansion of this manufacturing interest, have cherished 
and advanced all the departments of agriculture. The progress 
of the one has essentially preserved an even pace with the pros- 
perity of the other. The farmer of Essex has enjoyed a high pri- 
vilege known to few agricultural districts. He possesses at his 
own tlireshold, a market for almost every product of his farm. 
The prices of nearly all agricultural commodities in Essex county 
are graduated upon the scale of New-York prices and often literal- 
ly exceed them. The extensive manufacturing establishments 
spread along the valley of the Au Sable, create an inmiense de- 
mand for every product of the soil. 

The Adirondac works, when in operation, afford a ready and 
certain market for all the commodities of the secluded inte- 
rior towns, and ^re easily approached by winter roads. Local 
institutions, diffused in all sections of the county, supjdy a do- 
mestic market to every agricultural district. We have contem- 
plated the beneficial influences upon the agricultural improve- 
ment of the county, which resulted from the temporary declen- 
sion of the iron interest; but it must, in turn, have languished, 
if the stimulating influence of the latter, hid been permanently 
extinguished. The resuscitated manufactories will find their in- 
creased demands, now met by greatly augmented capabilities ; 
while the agriculture of the county will derive fresh impulses, 
from the renewed prosperity of the manufacturing interest. All 



874 [Assembly 

the existing farmiDg capacity of the region is far inadequate to 
the supply of its consumption, A great proportion of the food 
of man and beasts, must still be imported. May it not reasonably 
be presumed, under these circumstances, that the vast area of 
rich and unoccupied territory, embraced in the limits of Essex 
county, and in the fertile region lying beyond Its western borders, 
will soon be rendered subservient to the wants and industry of 
man. 

FRUIT. 

The Champlain valley is pre-eminently adapted in soil and 
climate, to the production of most varieties of the apple. The 
list of apples cultivated in this district, is very nuDierous, and 
the quality generally of the highest excellence. 

Many old orchards still exist, which were planted at the first 
settlement of the country. The pioneer, usually, brought with 
his household goods, the bag of apple seeds from his Xew-Eugland 
home, and the young orchard was among the earliest evidences 
of improvement and civilization. The perversion of this rich 
bounty of Providence, for a period, created a prejudice which led 
to the neglect of its culture. 

The increased facility of intercourse, which has brought the 
Atlantic markets within a few hours of Lake Champlain, by a 
cheap and easy access, has created a new demand for the apples 
of that region, which cannot be exhausted. This fact has aroused 
the attention of all classes, and the cultivation of the choicest 
varieties of this fruit, is largely extending ii^ssex county. It 
now promises to become one of the most extensive and lucrative 
branches of husbandry. In the year \Sd2, five thousand en- 
grafted trees were purchased from abroad, and transplanted in the 
-town of Crown Point alone. Other sections of the county per- 
haps, not in an equal degree, are engaging with great energy in 
the same occupation. It is found that a few acres, often ot rough 
and untillable land, appropriated to th'.s object, are more pro- 
ductive than many entire farms. The price of the bejt qualities 
of these apples, ranges from $1.50 to $2.25 the barrel. 



No. 112.1 875 

The common seedling apples are much esteemed by many 
farmers, as a valuable food for swine, healthy and nutritious, in 
the first stages of fattening. Several of the best apples of this 
region, are derived from Canada. The"Fameuse," the choicest of 
autumnal table fruit, exquisite in its flavor, nnd a long keeper; 
the "Roseau" and the " Pomme Gris," have this origin. It is 
•till a problem whether the " Baldwin," the first of New-England 
apples, will flourish in this region. It would be useless, and 
treading upon controverted ground with amateurs and nursery 
men, to designate among the new varieties, the most excellent 
classes. The standard kinds of former days, however, such as 
the Rhode Island Greening, the Spirzenbcrgh, Pippins, Gilli- 
flower, and Pearmain, still maintain their pre-eminence. 

The hardier species of the pear, are now cultivated with suc- 
cess. In the constantly improving skill and science which dis- 
tinguishes fiuit culture, the pear will, doubtless, soon be gtnerally 
introduced. 

The Catawba and Isabella grapes, are widely and successfully 
cultivated. The latter yields a most luxuriant and delicious pro- 
duct, growing open and unprotected. I saw bushels ot this lus- 
cious fruit, hanging in unapproachable clusters among the top 
branches of trees, thirty feet in height, and mth no protection 
from the rigours of the climate. The " McNeil " grape is a high- 
ly approved variety, indigenous to the region. Many other kinds, 
of a more delicate character, are made productive by careful 
manage Qient. 

Plums are cultivated in numerous varieties, and of supei ior ex- 
cellence. The Plum will probably be found, as congenial to this ter- 
ritory as the apple. The destructive ravages of the curculio, against 
which no suificient protection has been discovered, have impeded 
the culture of this fruit. The season of 1852, afforded a great 
yield of the plum, with almost an exemption from the attacks of 
this* insect. Nearly a total failure of the crop, occurred the pre- 
vious year. Many extensive plum orchards, did not afford a sin- 
gle plum, while several preceding years, had been remarkable for 



876 [Assembly 

t'le prevalence of the curculio, and the general destruction of the 

crop.* 

Peaches^ Apricots and Quinces^ are seldom cultivated, and only 
with extreme care aud labor. None but the common cherry, has 
been extensively planted, although the choicevarieties are gradu- 
ally introduced, and with success. 

An association, embracing both shores of the Lake, and desig- 
nated the " Champlaiu Valley Horticultural Society," has been 
organized, which, under the direction of active and efficient offi- 
cers, is exerting a decidecfand most valuable influence, in the ad- 
vancement of this important pursuit. f The festivals of the so- 
ciety, have been distinguished by the great beauty and variety of 
the display in their floral department, while the exhibition of fruits, 
appropriate to the climate, is seldom surpassed. The collection 
of apples at the autumnal fair, in variety and excellence, is rare- 
ly equalled. 

ANALYSES OF SOILS. 

It was my purpose, to procure an examination of samples of 
all the prominent soils of the county. In selecting them, I in- 
tended to exhibit a type of each class, and not to procure speci- 
mens merely of«uch localities, as would give a false and inflated 
idea of the fertility of the county. I am not able to give an 
analysis of every variety of earth, but the tables of results al- 
ready incorporated in this report, and which will now be intro- 
duced, nearly complete the series I desired. 

I obtained two specimens of the soil, near the Adirondac works. 
These earths, are taken from, probably, the highest cultivated 
land in the State, The analysis will be regarded with interest 
on this account, and with surprise, at the high degree of native 
richness they present. 

• Is not a remedy of this evil, suggested by these facts, to be accomplished by a careful 
destruction of all the fruit affected by the insect ? 

\ The Rev. John AVheeler, D. D., is at the head of this valuable society, and is communi- 
cating a deep interest and usefulness to it operations. 



No. 112.] 877 

Soil No. 17, Adirondac, lias laid in meadow since the land was 
first cleared, nine years ago, and has never been manured. One 
hundred parts, dried at 212°, gave of 

Organic matter, 25 . 12 

Silica, 55 .41 

Alumina and iron, 17.22 

Manganese, 1 04 

Phosphoric acid, . 32 

Sulphuric acid, . U7 

Chlorine, . 08 

Lime, 0.13 

Magnesia, 0.06 

Potassa, 0.11 

Soda, .26 

09.82 



" This soil," Prof. Salisbury remarks, " is quite peculiar. Its 
analysis indicates, at present, a high degree of fertility. If crop- 
ped for a few years, however, it will begin to show symptoms of 
exhaustion, without any perceptible cause. That is, the crops 
will gradually decrease, while, at the same time, the laud will 
appear to the eye quite as rich as ever. The bodies, which will 
first be exhausted in the soil, are lime, magnesia, potassa, chlorine 
and sulphuric acid. As these all occur in the ash of plants, and 
as in this soil there is an abundance of organic matter present, 
common hard wood ashes, will be the best and most economical 
manure for it, for many years to come. Even now, its fertility 
would be considerably increased by the yearly addition of small 
quantities of this material." 

No. 18 is the same soil, in its primitive condition, without hav- 
ing been subjected at all to cultivation. Prof. Salisbury says, in 
reference to this, "I have not analysed No. 18; it seems to the 
eye to be considerably richer in organic matter than No. 17." 

No. 20, is a sample of the soil embraced in the ledges of land 
in Jay, described in this report. It is taken from the farm of 
Daniel Blish. " The general appearance of this soil is quite dif- 
ferent from No. 17 ; it is much less adhesive, and has much less 



878 [Assembly 

power for absorbing and retaining moisture. Tlie microscope 
shows it to be quite silecious, and much less rich inorganic mat- 
ter than Nos. 17 and 18." 

The analysis indicates a soil of about medium productiveness. 
One hundred parts, dried at 212", gave of 

Organic matter, , 5.38 

Silica, , 82.31 

Alumina and iron, 11.24 

Manganese, 0.22 

Phosphoric acid, 0.04 

Sulphuric acid, , 0.02 

Chlorine, 0.05 

Lime, 0.24 

Magnesia, " 0.13 

Polassa, 0.14 

Soda, 0.16 

99.96 



" The sulphuric acid, lime, magnesia, potassa, soda, chlorine 
and -phosphoric acid, of this soil, are in such small proportion, 
that the greater portion of them will be considerably exhausted in 
the course of a few years, by cropping without the addition of 
•manures. The percentage of organic matter is also too small to 
indicate a soil of great productiveness and retentive power. 

" The best and most available manures indicated by the above 
analysis, for the region where the soil lies, are barn-yard manures 
or peat mi.^ed with hard wood ashes leached, or better unleached. 
The phosphate of lime, plaster, caustic lime, and guano, will all 
be found valuable applications." 

The specimen marked No. 27, is from the " intervale" on the 
bank of the Boquet, upon the farm of C. A. Wakefield, in Eliza- 
bethtown, and is a type of the alluvial tracts which occur in the 
county. Prof. Salisbury says, " No. 27 is a very excellent soil. 
Under the microscope it is seen to be composed of quartz, mica, 
felspar and hornblende, with an occasional small particle of 
calcspar, and a few other minerals. It is quite rich inorganic 



\ 



No. 112.] 879. 

matter, wliicli gives to the soil a highly absorbing and retentive 
power. It is a superior soil." 

One hundred parts dried, at 212°, gave of 

Organic matter, 16.20 

Silica, 70.G8 

Iron and alumina, 10.36 

Lime, 1.10 

Magnesia, 0.36 

Potassa, 0.48 

Soda, 0.28 

Chlorine, 0.22 

Sulphuric acid, 056 

Phosphoric acid, 0.04 

99 98 



The following is an analysis of a soil from North Elba, marked 
No. 31, sandy loam. This sample indicates the soil which forms 
the extensive and fertile plains in North Elba, which have been 
repeatedly noticed in the body of this report : 

One hundered parts dried a^ 212°, gave of 

Organic matter, 18.16 

Iron and alumina, .' 6,74 

Silica, 71 .88 

Lime, ,0.54 

Magnesia, 0.36 

Potassa, 62 

Soda, 0.24 

Chlorine, 0.08 

Sulphuric acid, 1.12 

Phosphoric acid, 0.04 

99.78 

" Under a microscope this soil is seen to be made up of the de- 
bris of primary rocks. Among the minerals are plainly seen 
quartz, mica, hornblende, ami felspar, Ey reference to the analy- 
sis, the Soil will be seen to be remarkably rich in organic matter. 



880 [Assembly 

This organic matter is in a finely pulverulent state, and commu- 
nicates to the soil a highly retentive and absorbent power. Its 
quantity and state of decomposition imparts to the soil a dark 
rich brown color, which makes it a fine absorber of solar heat- 
It also contains a respectable quantity of all the inorganic bodies 
which enter into the composition of plants. The amount of these 
is sufficient, considering the fine state of division of the soil at 
present, to give a good degree of fertility to the soil. A few crops, 
however, so diminish those portions of the lime, magnesia, potas- 
sa, soda, sulphuric and phosphoric acids and chlorine, which are 
soluble, as to decrease perceptibly its fertility. It is, however, a 
soil which can be easily kept in a high state of fertility, by simply 
adding each year the small quantity of ingredients that are re- 
moved by the crops. Essex county furnishes all the material re- 
quisite for this purpose in her phosphate of lime, marl and peat 
deposits, and common wood ashes." 

The earth represented by No. 39, is taken from premises in 
Chesterfield. This soil, with every appearance of fertility, by a 
casual inspection, is remarkable for an inertness, which manures 
but slightly stimulate. By the analysis of Professor Salisbury, it 
contains the following components : 

Organic matter, 2 . 78 

Silica, '. 84.70 

Oxide of iron, and aluminum, 10 . 78 

Lime, . 38 

Magnesia, 0.16 

Soda, .26 

• Potassa, 0.34 

Chlorine, 0.18 

Sulphuric acid, 0.12 

Phosphoric acid, . 02 

99.86 



The sample. No. 38, is an average exhibition of the elements 
of the sandy soils of the county, in their uncultivated state. 
One hundred parts deprived of water, gave of 



No. 112 ] 881 

Organic matter, 2 . 64 

Silica, 90.70 

Oxides of iron and aluminum, 3.96 

Lime, 0.44 

Magnesia, . 38 

Soda, 0.72 

Potassa, 0.23 

Chlorine, .09 

Sulphuric acid, 0.11 

99.63 



No. 13 was taken from the drift formation in Elizabethtown, 
on the premises of Mr. Nicholson, and exhibits the character 
of probably the lowest grade of soil. It is a sand, but is far from 
representing the qualities of the sandy soils so profitably culti- 
vated in different sections of the county. " One hundred parts 
of soil dried at 212*^, gave of 

Organic matter, 7 . 48 

Silica, 68.46 

Iron, 14.28 

Alumina, 3.16 

Manganese, 1.46 

Lime, 3.14 

Magnesia, 0.06 

Potassa, . 78 

Soda, 0.34 

Chlorine, .06 

Sulphuric acid, 0.12 

Pliosphoric acid, trace 

Arsenic, 0.01 

99.35 



" This soil is very peculiar, on account ot its containing a large 
percentage of iron and manganese, and a small quantity of arse- 
nic. The presence of arsenic would indicate, that the soil is not 
very well calculated to support a vigorous and healthy vegeta- 
tion." 

[Ag. Tr. '53] F 3 



APPENDIX. 



Note A. 
I insert the following interesting document, which is a literal 
transcript of the original draft ot a memorial to Congress by Mr. 
Gilliland, that I found among his papers. I preserve it, be- 
cause it throws important light upon the colonization of Essex 
county, and the progress and period of its first agricultural im- 
provements, and because it is illustrative of the events and suf- 
ferings of the revolution, but more especially from the exhibit it 
contains of the conduct of Arnold, and its singular and prophetic 
comments, upon his character. I am able to fix the date of the 
instrument, as in the summer of 1777. 

To the Hon'ble members of the 
Continental Congress 

The Memorial of William Gilliland late of Willsborough on 
the* west side of Lake Champlain 

Most Humbly Sheweth. 

That in consequence of near twelve years, close application, 
deligence & industry & at very great expence, your memoralist, 
accomplished his arduous undertaking of forming & establish- 
ing, the first English settlement ever attempted, in the dreary 
wilds of Lake Champlain, then almost a hundred miles from any 
Christian neighborhood. Thati besides his own improvements on 
three several farms, your memoralist had 98 other Inhabitants on 
his land, who were very considerably indebted to yourmem's> 
the preservation of whose crops, being the only prospect of pay- 
ment which your mem^' had 

That from some discoveries, which Gen Carlton made of your 
mem'* political sentiments in June 1775, he ofiered a reward of 



No. 112.] 883 

five hundred dollars to any person that would take your mem" 
& carry him prisoner to Canada ; that several attempts were made 
from time to time to accomplish this without effect; sundry par- 
ties having been obstructed, & the only partywho got the lenght, 
having been made prisoners by your mem' & sent bound to Gen 
Schuyler, tho well provided with a blunderbuss & six other fire 
arms. — they were headed by Sheriff White of Tryon county, con- 
sisted of 4 Tories & 3 Savages & were to join the enemy at S' 
Johns, where White was to have raised a company to join Coll 
McLeans emigrants. That your mem" has reason to think that he 
was the first person who laid a plan for k determined upon seiz- 
ing Ticonderoga, C Point and the Kings armed vessel, & therewith 
the entire command of Lakes George k Champlain. That by 
means of your mem' an unhappy dispute, w^ subsisted between 
M>- Allen and M^ Arnold (the then rival Headsof our handfull of 
people on L Champlain) was composed. In consequence of w'^^ 
your mem'' (besides several other matters) took the Liberty of re- 
commending to your Honors, the embodying the Green Mountain 
boys. Coll Allen delivered the letter — 

That your mem'' property to the amount of several hundred 
pounds, is stopped by the ministerial troops in Canada, because 
of his known attachment to the glorious cause of American inde- 
pendence, now at stake. That your mem''- having entertained 
good opinion of Mr. Arnold, did his utmost endeavors, with a 
committee from the congress of Mass., to have him continued in 
the command at C Point ; and after he was turned out of the ser- 
vice, your mem''"^ was the means of procuring credentials for 
his being reinstated, by furnishing him with the unanimous voice of 
the civil and military in the northern department in his favor, by 
an address which was drawn up by your men'^' and presented to 
him for that purpose ; w'ch was the chief friend he had to introduce 
him to tiie fav'r of the prov'l Congress and of Gen. Washington^ 
when it was expected by many, that he would have met quite a 
different reception. 

That, by means of your mem'" our army were supplied with 
as many water craft as transported several hundred men from C. 
Point to Canada, whither he conducted Gen. Montgomerey safe. 



884 [Assembly 

from his better knowledge of the navigation, tlian perhaps any 
other person then with that Genl. That in testimony of your 
mem''! warm attachment to and hearty affection for your north- 
ern army, he embraced every opportunity of rendering them all 
the encouragement in his power. From the Gen'l down to the cen- 
tenel, he has entertained 3 or 4000 men at his own expence — he 
never charged a shilling for vegetables, salmon, milk or any thing 
else he had to spare them — has complemented them with 1500 
salmon in one season ; has supplied a numerous company under 
Capt Lamar with bread and meat as long as he or his settlers had 
a pound, during a long stay w'ch they were obliged to make at his 
place, and thereby reduced his and the families of his tenants, to 
sufferings they were before unused to ; had every deserter that ap- 
peared in his settlement taken up and sent to the army; has lain 
weeks together on straw in a com'n room, that sick and wounded 
ofl&cers and sold'rs that were sent to or stopt at his house might 
be more comfortably accommodated, sometimes taking them to 
Ticonderoga (45 miles distant) at his own charge, and had every 
sold'er who died in his settlement inter'd in decent coffins, with 
the honors of war. 

The only association agreement enter'd into ; the only company 
of minute men formed on either side of Lake Champlain yr mem'*' 
established on his settlement ; and for example sake, stood in the 
ranks himself,' and did his utmost endeavors to introduce the like 
among all the other settlements at or near the lake, and finally 
every 3d man of his tenants enter'd into the countrys service. 
That, shortly before the retreat of our army from Canada your 
mem'"' was intimidated by frequent alarms and thereupon re- 
moved his children and most valuable effects to Crown Point and 
returned to save his and his tenants crops, intending to have them 
removed to Ticonderoga as soon as preserved; that in the interim 
Gen. Sullivan having retreated with the army from Csftiada, he 
told your mem'"' how much his sick stood in need of our milch 
cows and beef cattle, that your mem'^' did not wait for Gen. Sulli- 
van's compulsive orders (which were afterwards given) to enforce 
our removal, but had about 100 head removed to C. Point imme- 
diately, not doubting that he should be paid their value aggreea- 



No. 112.] 885 

bly to the Genl promise ; but was most unexpectedly disappointed 
by tlie injustice of the commissarys — one of whom said, that now 
your mem'st cattle were there, 'twas in his power to take what ad- 
vantage he thought proper in the price of them ; and another ofier- 
ing only |th part of their real value. 

That, the crops belonging to your mem'st and his tenants, being 
of verj* considerable value, and their preservation of much im- 
portance to our army, he apply<i for, and obtained from Gea. 
Gates, a small party of r:.en to secure and preserve the same,- 
for which purpose he returned home with the party to prosecute 
the business ; that duiing the time of liis stay at his settle', 
Major Hay, A D Q M G came to his place and made a firm agree't 
with yr mem'' for the whole, agreeable to the account herewith, 
which your mem^t has frequently applyed for payment of, to the 
Gent, whom your honors have been pleased to appoint commis- 
sioners for liquidating ac'=''5 without effect ; by which your 
mem*' has obtained very considerable loss ; as by his having had 
it in his power to employ that sum in trade, the benefits arising 
would no doubt have kept pace with the depreciation in the value 
of money. Shortly after entering into the above agree't, your 
mem'^' fully determined to remove himself, his slaves, stocks, 
crops and such portable furniture and tools as remained behind, 
to Ticonderoga ; made a kind of cellar in the woods, in which he 
hid away his saw and grist mill irons, and a great variety of other 
irons, and some steel; in value at that time, not less than £200 ; 
loaded two batteaux with household stuff and other articles,, and 
brought them and his whole family then remaining, to the house 
of one of the tenants, 3 miles south from where your mem'' 
then lived ; only waiting for a northerly wind to tavor their pas- 
sage to C. Point; for which purpose y'r mem'st had the boats 
hauled a good way up on the shore, without unloading them, 
keeping his people in the meanwhile closely employed in har- 
vesting. Here y mem^' remained 2 or 3 days, not daring to 
stay at home, being there much more dangerously situated should 
an enemy come; during this period, Gen. Arnold then down the 
lake with the fleet, in reward for your mem°> zeal in the cause, 
for the manifold services ho had rendered oiu- army, and for a 



886 [Assembly 

recompense of the eminent services he had rendered him, or 
rather to cancel all obligations due to your memoralist on that 
score, sent a party of soldiers to tear y^" mem"' away from his 
property, dignifying him with an officer for their commander, 
whose rank was so high as a sergeant, with private orders not to 
suffer him to remove any part of his property. By which means 
besides 28 dwelling houses, and above 40 other houses, two grist, 
and two mills,' all our gardens, orchard fences, &c., &c., now left 
and exposed to the vindictive fury of ministerial vengeance, y 
mem« is for the present divested of other property to the amount 
of £ ,* as per the annexed ac^ which he most humbly im- 
plores your hon'"* to have reimbursed in such manner, as in your 
wisdom and justice shall seem right. Gen. Arnold is your ser- 
vant ; all the power and authority he has, is derived from you, 
and that has enabled him to commit the acts of tyranny and out- 
rao-e upon y^ mem^* and many others, whose complaints' have 
been laid before you. It is not in mine, but it is in your power to 
bring him to justice. Bursting with pride and intoxicated with 
power to wh^^ he ever ought to have been a stranger, but wh<=i^ he 
has had art enough to obtain from you. he tyrannizes where he 
can. If temerity, if rashness impudence and error can recom- 
mend him to you, he is allowed to be amply supplied with these 
qualities and m.aiy people think they ought to recommend him 
in a peculiar manner to L** North, who in gratitude, for his having 
done more injury to'the American cause, than all the ministerial 
troops, have had the power of doing, ought to reward him 
with a generous pension — He used his utmost endeavors to pre- 
vent y mem^"* from returning to his place to preserve and remove 
to Ticonderoga his crops and other property, and when passing 
y mem^^ settlement with the fleet, brought them to anchor just 
opposite to it ; suffering the most disorderly the most licentious 
fellows on shore, where in a few hours times they carried off or 
destroyed of ray property to near the amount <£ besides the 
outrages committed on our homes. I complain not, that by the 
breaking up of my settlement I am divested of an annual income 
of more than a thousand pounds; this is a misfortune, a calamity 

*In another document verified by his oath, Mr. Gilliland exhibits a schedule, in which tho 
aggregate of his various losses from the causes is estimated at £3;94;3 15 10. This I infer 
from collateral circumstances was sterling currency. ^ 



No. 113.] 887 

to which every person is subject whose situation is equally dan- 
gerous and whose political sentiments are as publicly known as 
were mine. On your love of justice, on the humanity and ten- 
derness I believe y hon"^ to be possessed, do I entirely rely, on 
your taking this matter into your serious consideration. I solicit 
you not for a present pecuniary indemnification on that score, 
but being now entirely divested of all employment, which to an 
active mind is very disagreeable, I take the liberty of making you 
a tender of my services in such situation as I am qualified for in 
the promotion of the common cause of American Freedom ; ho- 
ping you will be favorably pleased to honor me with such ap- 
pointment as will not derogate from my former station ; as shall 
enable me to support a numerous family of motherless children 
and in some measure be a compensation for the loss of my in- 
come. But in a peculiar manner y mem*' humbly entreats that 
y Honers will be favorably pleased to order payment for the 
crops y mem*^ sold to the Q-" M' Gen' for the use of the army 
and restitution or indemnification for loss of personal property 
he sustained by means of Gen Arnold. This is the prayer of 
your mem"' and that your councels may be directed by wisdom, 
and your endeavours in this grand conflict may be forever blessed 
with the smile of Heaven 

WILL GILLILAND 

Note B. 

" Expense of transporting a ton weight from N York to the boun- 
dary line between this State and the Province of Quebec on Lake 
Champlain. 

Fret from New- York to Albany, v . . XO 1 6s. Od. 

Cartage and storage in Albany, 4 

Land cartage from Albany to F' George — storage, 

64 miles, 2s., 6 

At Ft George, 1 

Fre* across Lake George, 16 

Cartage to L Champlain, 6 

Storage at Lake Champlain, 2 



888 [Assembly 

Fre* to the Canada line, 1 

Add for loss, wastage and contingencies wh can- 
not be foreseen, 1 7 



£11 0" 



The foregoing is copied from a document found among the Gil- 
liland papers, and exhibits an estimate of the price of transporta- 
tion, as it existed the latter part of the last century, Tlie average 
expense at this time of transporting a ton weight from New- York 
to Rouse's Point, is about $3, while the present economy in time 
contrasts equally with the reduction in the price. 

Note C. 
The following exhibits the school returns of the county for 
1850. The returns since that year are so imperfect that a tabular 
exhibit cannot be compiled with accuracy. 



No. 112.-| 



889 



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890 [Assembly 

Note D. — Statistics. 

Extract from the census returns of 1850, Essex county, JVew-YorJc. 

Number of dwellings, 5,320 

Number of families, 5,448 

WHITE POPULATION 

Males, 16,183 

Females, 14,91 5 

31,098 

FREE COLORED. 

Males, * 35 

Females, 15 

50 

Total free population, 31,148 

Number of deaths, 203 

farms, 1,873 

productive establishments, 199 

I glean the following interesting statistics from the table pub- 
lished with the proceedings of the board of supervisors. The 
estimate of propert^^ is, as footed by the board, for 1851. The 
three right hand columns, which I introduce for the purpose of 
illustrating the fiscal progress of the county, exhibits the valua- 
tion of real and personal property by the census of 1825. 



No. 112.] 



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892 [Assembly 

The annexed are the statistics of Essex county, as compiled for 
the Ked Book of 1852 : 

Acres of land, according to Burr's Atlas, 1,138,500 

Acres of land taxed, 1 ,024,520 

Assessed value of real estate, $4,239,079 

Assessed value of personal property, 709,552 

Corrected aggregate valuation, $4,942,935 

Amount of State and county taxes, $14,515 93 

Amount of town taxes, $13,071 32 

Total taxation, 1 . $27,587 25 

Rate of $1 valuation, mills, 5.6 

Note E. — Adirondac Iron. 

Extract from the report of Prof. W. R. Johnson^ of experiments 
made on the Iron manufactured at Ike village of Mclntyrc^ Essex 
county, JYew-York. 

After presenting a detail of experiments,^by which he tests and 
confirms " the freedom of this iron from the defects known either as 
hot shortness ir cold shortness, and its softness and malleability, by 
the cutting and hammering incident to these experiments," Prof. 
Johnson continues, " the next step was to determine the absolute 
force of cohesion, together with the extensibility, when subjected 
to longitudinal .strain, and the Interior structure of the metal 
under various circumstances, including that of welding in the or- 
dinary way." 

Tor this purpose, five bars were drawn out and prepared from 
the specimens, numbered I, II, III, IV and V, each about nine or 
ten inches long one inch wide, and two inches thick. 

No. I after being reduced to a nearly uniform size, throughout 
its length, was annealed at a red heat and allowed to cool slowly 
in the air. 

No. II was hammer hardened.^ or beaten with moderate force 
throughout its length, until it had been for several minutes blaak, 
the hammer being occasionally moistened during the process. 

No. Ill was forged out and hammered till it was only visibly red 
in day light, being left at about the temperature at which the 



No. 112.] 893 

workmen cease their operations on many of the articles wliich 
they produce. 

• No. IV after being brought to a uniform size, was upset for 
about three inches in the middle and was then annealed and 
cooled slowly. 

No. V was drawn out, cut in the middle and welded together. 
This sample was only 6^ inches long. 

All these bars were then carefully gauged both in bread^th and 
thickness, at every inch of their lengths, before commencing the 
trials of tenacity. The machine employed in testing them, was 
the same which had been used in experiments made by the re- 
quest of the Treasury Department on the strength of materials 
for steam boilers. ^ 

The following table will be understood without any other re- 
mark than that the breaking weights in the 5th column, are cor- 
rected for friction of the machine. The specific gravities of 
several of the iragments of each bar, after it had been broken up, 
are given under the head of observations, and may serve as well 
to illustrate the general character of the iron in this respect, as 
to indicate the effect of the several methods of preparation on 
the density of iron. 

The following experiments confirm the evidences already ad- 
duced of the great toughness and ductility of this variety of 
iron. Besides the facts mentioned under the head of Observa- 
tions, in the 7th column, we may add, that after the first fracture 
on each bar, a measurement Avas taken between iwo of the inch 
marks still remaining on Qne of its parts, and the following re- 
sults obtained, viz : 

No. I. In original length 6 inches, had elongated, .87 in., =14.5 per cent. 
No. II. do do 4 do do .2 in., = 5 do 

No. III. do do 5 do do .6 in., = 12 do • 

No. IV. do do 4 do do .2 in., = 5 do 



894 



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ipecific gravity afte 
area of section wa 
rength of this bar 

t. ; specific gravit; 
3. Greatest differ 

pecific gravity afte 
the area of seetioi 
a strength, 58.912 

of original length 
3; mean strength 
. The last two re 
ipsetting remained 




































5 ; total elongation, 35 per cent. 
. 676. After the 4th fracture, t 
diminution, 46 per cent. : mean 
;., =: 3.2 per cent, of the mean, 

. ; total elongation, 20.5 per c 
, =7.768; mean strength, 65. 
e mean. 

total elongation, 28 . 94 per cent. 
.750. After the secbM fractur 
diminution, 45.2 per cent. ; m 
per cent, of mean, 
total elongation, 24.46 per cen 
31, 7.754, 7.634; mean, =7. 
lbs., =11.2 per cent, of the me 
! bar. The thickest part of th< 


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after, 11 in 
.779; mean 
r cent, of th 
after, 12i ; 
; mean, =7 
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7.813, 7.7 
e, 7, — 128 
ortion of the 


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No. 112.] 895 

To compare this iron with others, it is proper to ajsume bar 
No. in as a standard, that having been hammered to a dull red 
heat. The report already cited furnishes us with abundant data, 
derived from experiments, made with the same machine, on other 
kinds of bar iron in a similar state. Thus we have 

Strength in lbs. 
per square inch. 

Iron from Salisbury, Conn., by a mean of 40 trials, 58 . 009 

Sweden, " " 4 " .... 58.184 

Centre Co , Penn., « " 15 " ....58.400 

Lancaster Co., " " " 2 " .... 58.661 

Mclntyre, Essex Co., N. Y., by a mean of 4 

trials, 58.912 

England, cable bolt (E. V.), by a mean of 

5 trials, •. . 59.105 

Russia, by a mean of 5 trials, 76 . 069 

Hence it appears, that the last only, is essentially superior to 
the iron of Mclntyre. These are among the best varieties of bar iron 
in point of tenacity. The fracture is of a light grey color, silky 
lustre, and generally displays a compact structure. It is worthy 
of remark, that most of the fractures took place in directions 
oblique to the line of tension, and making with it, either in the 
breadth or thickness, one or more angles of about 60 degrees each. 
The fibrous structure of the metal was very marked in cutting 
with the cold chisel, and was further developed by acids on part 
of No. Ill, on the surface of which delicate lines were shewn 
traversing a distance of several inches. The specific gravity, in 
an annealed state, it appears, was increased 1.2 per cent, by 
hammer hardening. 

In conclusioi;, it may be observed, that as a large and increasing 
demand for good iron prevails in the United States, in proportion 
to the increase of finished and accurate machinery, requiring 
superior materials as well as workmanship, there can be no doubt 
that any quantity which could probably be produced, if possess- 
ing the properties of that above described, would command a 
ready market and the best of prices." — Johnson^ s Report. 



896 [Assembly 

Several other highly interesting experiments have been made 
testing the strength and tenacity of the iron of Essex county. 
That, especially, at the navy yard at Washington, was decisive in 
establishiag the fact of their possessing properties of great and 
superior excellence. I have made every effort to procure exhibi- 
tions of these results, but without success. 



INDEX 



Civil and political history, G51 

Discovery by Champlain, G52 

Battle with the Iroquois, G57 

Crown Point, occupation of, by France, 659 

Mohawks captured Montreal, GG2 

Schenectady burned, GG2 

John Schyler's incursion to Canada, 663 

Dieskau's campaign, 665 

Abercrombie's expedition, 671 

Abercrombie's and Amherst's campaigns, 675 

Colonization of Champlain valley, ^ , 681 

William Gilliland's settlement, 686 

Ticonderoga taken by Ethan Allen, 696 

Proceedings from 1774 to 1784,. 701 

William Gilliland's personal history, 706 

Emigration from New England, 708 

Clinton county organized, , . 708 

Essex county organized, 711 

Increase of population from 1810 to 1850, 713 

Settlement of the county from 1812, 714 

Physical geography, 727 

Mountains, 729 

Lakes, 730 

Rivers, 735 

Natural curiosities , Indian Pass, 737 

Wilmington Notch ; walled banks of the An Sable, 738 

Split Rock, 740 

Natural History ; animals, 741 

Fish, 745 

Forests, 755 

Reptiles, 759 

Climate and meteorology, 759 

Meteorological observations, 764 

Mineralogy and geology, 771 

Adirondac Iron district, 771 

Moriah Iron district, 780 

Old Sandford mine, 781 

Penfield mine ; Hammond ore bed, 784 

Little Pond bed, 785 

Dr. Chilton's analysis of ore, 786 

Black lead, 786 

Black clouded marble, 786 

Porphyry, 789 

Copperas, analysis of, o 792 

Copper, 792 

[Ag. Tr. '53.] G 3 



898 INDEX. 

Water cement, 793 

Paint, 794 

Drift and diluvial formation, <, 795 

Phosphate of lime, 797 

Marl, 799 

Limestone, 800 

Peat, ,.. 801 

Analysis of peat, , 802-3 

Mineral springs, analysis, 804-5 

Industrial progress and resources, , , 808 

Forges, rolling mills, &c., 817 

Other manufactures, 833 

- Delafleld, John, tribute to, note, 825 

Iron ore, 827 

Public improvement, canals, &c., 828 

Ship canal, , 832 

Commerce on Lake Champlain, ....... 833 

Plank roads, 836 

Railroads, 837 

Marble,. 837 

Ship yards, 837 

Sailors, 838 

Commerce on Lake Champlain, . j^ 838 

Agriculture, • 843 

Grasses, . . . . ^ n 844 

Wheat, 846 

Rye, 847 

Oats, 848 

Peas, 849 

Barley, beans and buckwheat, 850 

Potatoes, 851 

Indian corn, 853 

Root crops and flax, 855 

Hay, 856 

Stock ; horses ; Black Hawk breed, 859 

Sheep, 861 

Dairy, 863 

Husbandry, 863 

Manures, 865 

Plaster, charcoal, 867 

Lime, 869 

Draining, 870 

Implements ; plowing, 871 

Markets, 872 

Fruit, 874 

Analyses of soils, 876 

Appendix ; memorial of William Gilliland, 882 

Common school returns, 1850, 889 

Statistics, 1852, 892 

Adirondac iron, 892 



